Travel

Moab, Utah has always been a place of rugged beauty. Nestled in a valley between Red Rock buttresses and the Colorado River, with two national parks nearby, it was a hidden gem until recently. Now, it has become a bustling seasonal metropolis with a busy main drag, packed restaurants, plenty of glamping accomodations, and teeming hiking trails. Moab is different from the dusty little town I remember visiting when I was younger. I have fond memories of just showing up at Arches National Park and getting a campsite. Those days are in the past. And little creature comforts are a travel byword. 

Drive just a little ways outside of Moab, and you’ll find plenty of adventurous spaces that are still private and hidden, tucked away and waiting to be explored. 

Sophisticated and grounding, adventurous and relaxing, there are still mysterious spots to explore. Even in town, there are quiet culinary oases’ and lux experiences just waiting to be stumbled upon. Here are a few of our elevated luxury-meets-adventure recommendations from where to stay and what to do around Moab.

Two-Michelin Key Accommodations: ULUM Moab

One of two locations given two Michelin keys in Utah, ULUM Moab is located about 25 minutes out of town. A Michelin key is similar to a Michelin star given to a restaurant but for lodging. Two Michelin keys denote an exceptional stay with premier service, stunning design, and a unique location. ULUM is all of those things and more. The resort takes upscale glamping to another level. With a stunning brick-and-mortar lobby, each full Safari tent is spread out from the other for maximum privacy and situated for the best views. 

The resort itself is nestled in a Red Rock crescent with a stunning view of Looking Glass Arch in the foreground and Canyonlands National Park in the distance. 

Once you check-in, you may not want to leave. The resort offers three contrast bath-style plunge pools ranging from warm to cold, as well as complimentary morning yoga, meditation sound baths, tea blending, plant medicine walks, and homemade soap making. The outdoor yoga platform begs for sun salutations, and the fire pit at night is a place to gather and talk the ins and outs of wanderlust with other guests.

The “tent” is much more than a place to lay your head. With spacious interiors, comfortable beds, indoor and outdoor lounging areas, private hot showers in each room, and cozy Pendleton blankets, it is less camping and more a home away from home. There’s no driving up to your tent; a private shuttle will deliver you to and from with your luggage and gear. This maintains the level of quiet throughout the entire resort. The best part is the wood-burning stove in every tent. After coming back from a day of adventure, nothing feels better than a hot shower and cuddling up, hair still wet in front of a warm stove. In the morning, in-room coffee makes for the perfect early sip while you watch the sunrise from the porch.

The lobby has mid-century vibes that blend into the landscape, while old cowboy caves and corrals showcase just how long the site has been used and loved. The restaurant serves Southwestern Fare morning and night. There’s also a coffee shop and juice bar on site, which means there’s no need to leave the resort and head into town for food if you don’t want to. Complimentary mocktail mixing (with handcrafted, local flavors like prickly pear) and a trail mix bar round-out service. 

Finally, ULUM can help you book any adventures you might want to enjoy, from canyoneering to guided hiking to kayaking. You can even make arrangements to climb Looking Glass Arch. 

When You Go: ULUM Moab, 147 Looking Glass Rd., Moab, ulumresorts.com/moab  

Climb Looking Glass Arch

Looking Glass Arch is on public land with a stunning vista of the entire formation jutting out from the desert, visible from ULUM resort. You might feel inspired to climb it after staring at it for a day or two. While it is a technical climb (requiring a guide if you are new to climbing), it is beginner-friendly. The nice thing about hiring a guide is that they will bring the gear. A guide will ensure a safe experience, from ropes to harnesses to helmets. Even as a relatively experienced climber, it was nice to bring my shoes and harness and let somebody else deal with the heavy rope. 

At the 130-foot top, you’ll enjoy an amazing 360° view of the surrounding desert. You can see the La Sal Mountains, and deep into Canyonlands National Park. 

Ravens may come over to check you out, but those are likely the only crowds you will experience, as Looking Glass is a little off the beaten path. 

The descent is a 130-ft rappel through a smaller Arch to the ground. It is a free rappel and not for those scared of heights. For everyone else, it is a thrilling end to an enjoyable morning. Guest at ULUM can book through the website, but you can also find other outfitters locally. 

Paddle Board the Colorado River 

Water is the lifeblood of the desert and the only reason that Arches and Canyonlands exist. There is no better and more relaxing way to experience the majesty of sweeping red rock walls and the power of the Colorado River than to do a stand-up paddle board trip. There are sections of the river that are quiet and easy, away from the famous white water, and are a soothing meditation of balance immersed in positive ions. 

Most tours last about three hours and are perfect for beginners. If you are a true beginner, going with a guide is ideal. You will get personalized instruction and gain the confidence to go out on your own. It’s perfect for a small family group, ideally for kids 10 and over. 

If you feel particularly confident, most outfitters will set you up with paddle boards, life jackets and a shuttle for an unguided trip. 

 When You Go: Paddle Moab, 44 W. 200 North, Moab, paddlemoab.com

Wine & Farm Tours in Moab

Off the main drag in Moab, there are delicious ways to get back to the area’s farming roots. Easy Bee Farm is a local CSA that has been providing local produce to families and restaurants for nearly two decades.

During the growing season, they offer tours, seed swaps, supper, clubs, and other events, as well as fresh bread and produce in the farm store. Check their social media (@easybeefarm) for the most up-to-date information. You can also find them at the Arts and AG Moab Farmers Market.

Just a little ways away from Easy Bee Farm is Spanish Valley Winery. Started in 1979 as an experiment and carried on by various owners over the years, this Moab Winery specializes in single vineyard estate bottled wines. In true farm-to-bottle fashion, everything is done on-site, from growing the grapes to fermenting to bottling. During the summer, the winery is open 7 days a week from 2 p.m. to 7 p.m. Tastings are $20 and are available for walk-ins. Vineyard tours are $50 and require a reservation. 

We liked the riesling, a unique white wine that is available in both a sweet and a dry finish. 

When you go: Easy Bee Farm, easybeefarm.com, Instagram: @easybeefarm; Spanish Valley Winery, 4710 Zimmerman Ln., Moab, moabwinery.com

Private Guided Back Country Tour 

Deep Desert Expeditions is run by Mike Cornella, who is quite famous in certain circles as one of the creators of the Heyduke Trail. Really, it is more of a route than a trail. Clocking in at over 800 mi long, it’s a Backcountry route that passes through every National Park in Utah, including the Grand Canyon, and avoids all cities and towns. 

If spending 60 days on the trail hunting down water feels a bit too adventurous, Mike is standing by to take you on a private tour in Canyonlands National Park or the surrounding desert. He offers a wealth of stories, local lore, geological insight, and adventure with an experienced local guide. 

Deep Desert Expeditions can craft a tour designed for your interests. They have you covered from photo and scenic tours to rock art tours to dinosaur and archeology tours. A private tour may be the best way to get into the real backcountry.

When you go: Deep Desert Expeditions,
visit deepdesert.com to plan your trip  

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It’s time to start planning your summer vacation, but instead of jet-setting to Europe or sizzling on the beaches of Mexico, might we suggest a Southern Utah road trip? Blessed by the Beehive state’s ecological vastness, Salt Lakers can get from mountain views to sweeping red rock vistas in just over four hours—along the way discovering world-renowned hiking, remarkable paleontological sites and a rich tapestry of historical and cultural landmarks. 

To spark some staycation inspiration, we’ve put together a series of road trips spotlighting Southern Utah destinations. So wrangle the kids and pack up the Subaru, it’s time for a desert escape. 

Roadtrip #1: Zion

Stay 

The crown jewel of Utah’s Mighty Five, Zion National Park sees a surge of visitors during the summer months—Last year the park reported 4.9M visitors and was the second-most visited National Park in the country. From April to September, the neighboring town of Springdale is packed to the gills with tourists and No Vacancy signs, but there’s still much respite to be found. 

Just twenty minutes from the park entrance, Autocamp Zion is the perfect basecamp for your adventure. Opened in 2023, the upscale glamping resort offers an array of accommodation options, from Airstream suites, to tiny-home cabins to campground options. During a recent visit, I set up camp in an Airstream and fell in love with the spa-like bathroom, functional kitchenette and private fire pit. Autocamp actually has an exclusive partnership with Airstream, so all trailers are made from scratch to masterfully blend modern luxuries and timeless design. The property functions as its own charming community, with a General Store and heated pool to boot, all centered around a stunning mid-century clubhouse.

The property also offers a few different dining options, like local provisions you can grab-and-go for fast adventure fuel, and freshly prepared meals available from The Kitchen. In the morning, I popped into the Clubhouse to mingle with a few fellow hikers and start the day with complimentary granola and coffee. And for dinner, I returned to The Kitchen to pick up a take-and-make feast for two. Utilizing my personal fire pit—fashionably outfitted with a branded grill grate and a fool-proof fire starting kit—my partner and I chowed down on grass-fed sirloin steak, grilled veggies and Yukon gold potatoes. Of course, is it even glamping if you don’t finish off your evening with a s’more? Autocamp takes an elevated approach to the campfire classic with artisan chocolate bars and graham crackers. 

Beyond dining and accommodations, Autocamp has perfected a seamless blend of luxury and nature. Red rock views frame the entire property, and every outdoor lounge area is furnished with comfortable Adirondacks. To take your excursions off-site without hopping into the car, AutoCamp Zion also lends guests bikes to cruise around the area. I spent one sunny afternoon riding into Springdale, the ride took me just over an hour and passed through some stunning bucolic landscapes, and even a nearby ghost town—more on that below!

Autocamp Zion
1322 UT-9, Virgin
P.S. Utah residents receive 20% best available rates!

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It’s Zion in the summer, so expect lines at the shuttle stops and sharing the trails with your fellow hikers (why not show the out-of-towners some Utah hospitality with a “hey there!” or “you’re almost to the end!”). But with the right preparation and mindset, you can still find plenty of moments for communing with nature.

The most popular summer hikes have one thing in common: water. The Narrows is a 9.4 mile meander up the Virgin River, complete with chest-deep crossings and plenty of scrambling. Invest in some solid water shoes, a hiking stick and head out before sunrise. Another beginner-friendly hike is Emerald Pools, a collection of three waterfalls connected by a loop. The Lower Pool is the most family-friendly and accessible, while the Upper Pool presents a bit more of an elevational challenge. Make sure to bring your camera and best “chasing waterfalls’ caption, the trail takes you underneath the falls for a refreshing cooldown. 

Other hikes to consider in Zion National Park:

• Watchman Trail: A moderate out-and-back trail starting at the Zion Canyon Visitor Center. Offers stunning views of Temples and Towers, lower Zion Canyon and the Watchman. 
• Many Pools Trail: An off-the-beaten path East of Zion National Park featuring slickrock slabs, slot canyons and fascinating sculpted potholes—some the size of bathtubs. This trail is a stunning secret find, especially after rainfall. 
• Canyon Overlook Trail: A quick hike that ends in a sweeping panoramic view of Zion. This trail is one of the most traveled paths, go before sunrise or sunset for some crowd mitigation. 

(We’ve written a lot on Zions, find more in-depth hiking stories here!)

Eat and Drink 

There’s a lot of outdoor action for those gritty, long-distance hikers, but those who prefer adventuring with their tastebuds have plenty to explore as well. Springdale offers a bounty of cafes, brewpubs, cocktail bars and upscale restaurants. 

Famed for their post-hike beers and sweeping views of the nearby park, Zion Canyon Brew Pub is a great stop for a casual dinner. They also feature live music and a spacious outdoor patio during the summer (zionbrewery.com). Fine dining meets Southern charm at Balcony One, a charming restaurant in Virgin. The menu offers a selection of elevated dishes, from smokey rib pappardelle to carpaccio and more. And if you’re in the mood for a laid-back alternative, their Bourbon and Blues bar next door can fix you right up with a neat glass of whiskey and pub grub (balconyonevirgin.com). Back in Springdale, Spotted Dog prides themselves on thoughtful farm-to-fork ingredients and locally sourced produce, not to mention their extensive 400-strong wine list. The restaurant is part of a boutique resort, Flanigans, which also houses a holistic spa and pool (flanigansresort.com). 

And finally, the latest addition to Zion’s dining scene is Cowboys & Angels—a western-style speakeasy hidden in the back of FeelLove Coffee. The swanky lounge specializes in craft cocktails and an impressive whiskey wall. Need helping find it? Here’s a clue: look for the angel wing (cowboysandangelszion.com). 

Weird and Wonderful Extras 

No roadtrip is complete without a few quirky pitspots—and you’d be surprised at the oddities that await you on your journey south. About an hour outside of Springdale, Fort Zion is a cheesy roadside attraction with western-themed playhouses, gift shops and a petting zoo. It’s a great place to let the kids burn off some energy, but we won’t judge the adults that go for the photo opps and homemade ice cream (1000 W. Hwy 9, Virgin). 

For a more authentic glimpse into the Old West, head to Grafton Ghost Town, a hauntingly beautiful remnant of the past. Originally settled by cotton farmers in 1859, Grafton was once home to a tight-knit community of 168 people. Today, only weathered wooden buildings, a schoolhouse, and farmland remain. In the late ’90s, the Grafton Heritage Partnership Project began restoring many of the old homes, preserving the town in a kind of time capsule. Frequently featured in films like Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid and In Old Arizona, Grafton is now one of the most photographed ghost towns in the West.

And if you’re searching for an even deeper dive into the region’s ancient history, add Petroglyph Canyon to your itinerary. Located just inside Zion National Park past the second tunnel on UT-9, a short 1.4-mile trail—marked by a log fence—leads to a stunning panel of well-preserved petroglyphs. Park rangers and history buffs have worked to keep this sacred site off the beaten path, so be sure to tread lightly and do your part to protect these invaluable cultural treasures.

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Save gas money and take the UTA FrontRunner to Ogden Central Station. Although it may seem daunting at first, you’ll be happy to have the extra cash when you arrive and find Ogden City’s best shopping, dining and entertainment spots a short walk away.

Where Rails Meet

Learn about Ogden only minutes from FrontRunner. Union Station, once a major railway hub, houses exhibits on Ogden’s history and people, along with collections of historic guns, automobiles and railroad stuff, including train cars. The station also hosts the free Ogden Living Heritage Festival, featuring music, dance and food, on May 10 and 11. Learn more here.

All on 25th Street

The Ogden Farmers Market, featuring local food, vendors and music, takes place on nearby Historic 25th Street each Saturday from May 24 to Sept. 13. While on 25th, try the Dough Puppies at Lucky Slice Pizza, have a cocktail on Alleged’s rooftop and shop music at Lavender Vinyl. Close to the stretch, see a play at Peery’s Egyptian Theatre or Good Company Theatre, and release your fury at Social Axe Throwing. Learn more here.

Sports and Music

Minor league baseball team the Ogden Raptors play in their home opener at Lindquist Field, a nine-minute walk from the station, on May 27. If you’d prefer live music to sports, follow 25th Street to the Ogden Amphitheatre for this year’s Ogden Twilight concerts, including Modest Mouse on June 28. Learn more here.

Watch, Surf, Fly

The family fun area, The Junction, is close enough for little legs. It has Megaplex Theatres, the Treehouse Children’s Museum and plenty of restaurants. The Salomon Center, also on-site, houses Skinny Dogz, which offers bowling, an arcade and more, and spots for indoor rock climbing, indoor skydiving and surfing. Top it all off with treats at The Cupcake Shoppe and Bakery. Learn more here.

Bleed Purple

Ogden is a college town, and the OGX bus line runs from Ogden Central Station to Weber State throughout the day. With fewer students, now is a perfect time to stroll WSU’s stunning campus and enroll the kids in one of many STEM-themed summer camps. Learn more here.

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See more stories like this and all our travel coverage.  And while you’re here, why not subscribe and get six annual issues of Salt Lake magazine’s curated guide to the best life in Utah? 

Come March 14, 2025, a total lunar eclipse—or blood moon—will be visible to stargaze in Southern Utah. While it might be a bit too chilly to camp out under the stars in Northern Utah, the southern end of the state will be starting to look mighty inviting. March–April is also the time to get great views of Mars, Venus and Jupiter. The spectacular Lyrid Meteor Shower peaks the evening of April 21, and Southern Utah has no shortage of ways to take in the celestial show. 

Viewing deck on the water—Lake Powell

Lake Powell was created when the Glen Canyon Dam was built in 1963. The lake’s shore is the red rock spires of what was once Glen Canyon and all those nooks and undulations add up to 2,000 miles of shoreline, which is more than the combined states on the Pacific Coast. It is best explored on the water, and, come nighttime, the deck of a rented houseboat becomes a viewing deck for thousands of stars, shining back from their reflections in the water all around. The Lake Powell Resorts and Marinas, situated lakeside with two locations at Wahweap and Bullfrog, can get you started on your houseboat stargazing adventures with rentals (and even grocery delivery!). 

Walk among the stars—Bryce Canyon

Under the Dome

Camp out under the dome! Not to be confused with the “Capitol Dome,” the 180 million-year-old magnificent mound of Navajo sandstone in Capitol Reef National Park (which isn’t even a true dome, by the way). Resorts, campgrounds and hotels have started capitalizing on Southern Utah’s brilliant stargazing reputation by allowing visitors to stay in retro-futuristic, transparent geodesic domes, in full view of the night sky, from the comfort of a luxury mattress. For a dome close to Capitol Reef, there are skylight domes at the modern-art-infused Skyview Hotel in Torrey. Outside of Canyonlands National Park, is the homey, rustic-chic Canyonlands Domes in Monticello. Finally, putting the “glam” in glamping with its high-concept interiors, is Clear Sky Resorts Bryce Canyon in Cannonville.

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For Epic pass holders, the temptation of Whistler is hard to resist

With some of the world’s greatest ski resorts right here in the Wasatch Range, Utahns can be forgiven for a lack of curiosity about skiing elsewhere. Why would we think about other resorts? But let’s not pretend that we don’t have a wandering eye from time to time. Be honest, you’ve said the word, maybe over beers at the Corner Store after a day on Park City side, leaning in, whispering across the table: “Whistler.” Just saying it feels like you’re cheating, right? 

Nevertheless, you find yourself dreaming of Canadian ridgelines, poutine and ice-cold Molsons. And this is OK. Go ahead and leave that Snowbird season pass dangling on the key peg, grab your Epic pass and slip away to Vancouver for a rendezvous with the mighty mountains of British Columbia. After landing in Vancouver, it’s only a two-hour drive on the Sea-to-Sky Highway (see below) into the Fitzsimmons Range, where you’ll quickly be sitting in front of a roaring fire in your pied-à-terre in one of Whistler’s two base villages, a trail map spread out before you.

Whistler is really Whistler Blackcomb Ski Resort, and all the space between its two massive, namesake peaks. All told, it’s the largest ski area in North America (sorry, Park City). From the lowest base area at the resort, Creekside Village, the ascent to the top is dramatic: A gondola and lift take you from 2,140 feet above sea level to Whistler Mountain’s 7,156-foot summit. (Blackcomb Peak’s summit is even higher, nearly 8,000 feet, but isn’t served by a lift.)

From Whistler Mountain’s summit, you’ll have the entirety of the Fitzsimmons Range laid out at your feet. Most of what you’re looking at is Garibaldi Provincial Park, a wilderness area unsullied by the development and luxury cabins that increasingly junk up alpine scenery in the United States. Where you go from here is up to you, but, with 200 marked runs, 8,171 acres of terrain, 16 alpine bowls and three glaciers to explore, there’s no shortage of options.

Don’t worry, Utah never needs to know.

GETTING THERE: Ride the Sea-To-Sky Highway

Whistler Blackcomb is about a two-hour drive north from Vancouver. While renting a car is an option, take a shuttle: You’ll want to sightsee along the well-named Sea-to-Sky Highway. Whistler Connection offers airport transfers to stops in both Creekside and Whistler villages, meet-and-greet services, and more. Make like James Bond and book a helicopter. This will have you in Whistler in a mere 30 minutes (with some detours for the scenery) but, ouch, it’s about $4,500 (one-way). However you get to Whistler, it’s easy to get around here. Go old school and utilize the area’s reliable cab services. Bonus: The local drivers are a colorful lot who speak the Queen’s English with a thick Canadian brogue. Nice one, eh?

GET YOUR ART AND ARCHITECTURE ON

Apart from the quad-burning ski days that are the center of this visit, you’ll want to make sure you don’t miss the Audain Art Museum. Home of a fascinating collection of First Nation artworks, as well as contemporary works by Canadian artists, the 56,000-square-foot building designed by architect John Patkau is itself a work of art. The Audain is a must-see along Whistler’s Cultural Connector, a scenic path that links six of the ski village’s major cultural institutions. On your stroll, also stop into the Maury Young Arts Centre, the home of Arts Whistler, a gallery and hub of local artistic and cultural activity. Check the center’s calendar before you visit to find activities for all ages. The Whistler Museum gives a funky, fun rundown of the timeline from Whistler’s start as a tiny fishing village to its Olympic glory days. Also along the Cultural Connector, you’ll find two notable works of public art—Susan Point’s bronze sculpture, A Timeless Circle, and James Stewart’s Jeri, a compelling figure study of a Brazilian Capoeira fighter ready to spring into action.

BRING IT HOME

Amid the usual resort suspects—gear and T-shirt shops—are some one-off gems, literally in the case of Keir Fine Jewellery. The boutique jewelry store specializes in inspired settings for Canadian diamonds and other stones. If you do find yourself with a hankering for gear, pop into the Whistler Blackcomb Outlet Store in the main village; it requires digging through its racks but finding a deal on something Gortex is part of the fun. Plaza Galleries is that ski town gallery that offers an eclectically curated selection of work by international artists that you won’t find in Utah.

PLAY

Most of your time will surely be spent exploring the vast resort you came to Canada to ski, and there is a lot to explore. Break it down into smaller chunks by joining one of the free mountain tours given daily on each of the two peaks. The colorful volunteers who lead the tours are Whistler lifers who will ensure that you see the best each mountain offers. For a break from downhill skiing, book a self-guided snowshoeing or cross-country ski excursion with Cross Country Connection. Or join a guided zip line, snowmobile or snowshoe tour with The Adventure Group. Finally, ditch the gear and the cold completely and book (in advance) an afternoon or evening at Scandinave Spa. This place is no joke—very hot and very cold pools sit in a beautiful garden dotted with cozy chill-out rooms where you can catch your breath.

EAT & DRINK

Let’s talk waffles—gorgeously decorated with blueberries and frothy whipped cream—served next to a steaming cup of coffee. On a gondola ride, “Have you had the waffles?” is the answer to our question, “Where should we eat?” So, make sure at least one of your ski days includes a mid-morning or mid-afternoon break at Crystal Hut on Blackcomb’s Crystal Ridge.

The après scene at Whistler truly is a scene. Garibaldi Lift Company Bar & Grill is the big show with the see-and-be-seen crowd. For a quieter wind down, try Bar Oso, a tapas joint with an interesting and extensive wine list of Spanish varietals. Wherever you après, try a Bloody Caesar, a Canadian variant on the Bloody Mary made with Clamato juice. The bartenders around Whistler attempt to outdo each other with both classic and ridiculously adorned Bloody Caesars. For the former, stop into Dusty’s Bar & BBQ in Creekside Village. For the latter, clomp those ski boots into Merlin’s Bar & Grill and, with a straight face, ask for “The Jester.” Chances are you won’t be able to keep that straight face: The Jester comes garnished with chicken wings, onion rings, cured bacon and beef jerky. 

REST UP

Whistler is a sprawling ski area with many options for places to stay, including a wide-ranging selection of vacation rentals, bed and breakfasts and a solid lineup of full-service hotels. As you consider the options, know that where you stay is a big factor in determining the kind of trip you’ll have. Creekside Village, which links to the Creekside Gondola, is a quiet(ish) residential community, with a smaller selection of restaurants and bars than Whistler Village. 

Whistler Village has easy access to both the Blackcomb Excalibur and Whistler Village gondolas and is the heart of the resort’s activity and action. There’s a well-run bus system between and around both areas. In Creekside Village, Nita Lake Lodge is perched on the shore of (frozen) Nita Lake. A scenic boutique hotel, it’s a getaway from your getaway, designed in “mountain modern” chic style (yes, there are stag heads on the wall). Whistler Village’s counterpart to Nita Lake is Fairmont Chateau Whistler. Looming over the village like something out of a Disney fairy tale, it’s basically a castle, with turndown service. 

The Pan Pacific Whistler Mountainside has rooms with views of the gondola lines. Listel Hotel Whistler is a business-class property with a groovy modern lobby. It’s also home to the Bearfoot Bistro, which has an Ice Room experience, where you can drink ice cold vodka (or whatever) out of, yep, tumblers made of ice. The Blackcomb Lodge has that rough-hewn log vibe and offers reasonably priced rooms right in the center of Whistler Village.

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