Tony Gill is the outdoor and Park City editor for Salt Lake Magazine and previously toiled as editor-in-chief of Telemark Skier Magazine. Most of his time ignoring emails is spent aboard an under-geared single-speed on the trails above his home.
The Wasatch Mountain Film Festival (WMFF) will host in-person screenings of an incredible variety of outdoor films throughout November. The six multi-film events, which will all be held at the fantastic Clubhouse SLC, are the first live shows for WMFF since the pandemic took hold last year. The timing couldn’t be better. These screenings are a great way for outdoor enthusiasts to channel their stoke as shoulder season encroaches on the higher altitude trails while lifts are still weeks away from spinning.
The Wasatch Mountain Film Festival (WMFF) will host in-person screenings of an incredible variety of outdoor films throughout November. The six multi-film events, which will all be held at the fantastic Clubhouse SLC, are the first live shows for WMFF since the pandemic took hold last year. The timing couldn’t be better. These screenings are a great way for outdoor enthusiasts to channel their stoke as shoulder season encroaches on the higher altitude trails while lifts are still weeks away from spinning.
“These are our first live screenings since September 2019, and we couldn’t be more excited,” says WMFF Marketing Director Justin Brendel. “We’ve never done an event this large outside of the festival itself. We were planning on hosting the 2020 festival at Clubhouse SLC but had to switch to a virtual model. It worked out really well to have screenings there now.”
WMFF’s Return To Live events each revolve around a separate theme. The first event, on Nov. 5, is about air. Films that evening cover topics ranging from daring paragliding flights in the Rocky Mountains to world-class slackliners crossing elevated expanses between remote Norwegian cliffs to an exploration of Salt Lake County’s abysmal air quality and the communities it affects. The theme is fire for the screening on Nov. 12, Earth on Nov. 13, and water on Nov. 20. Pick your preferred medium and enjoy.
Still from “Fly the Roof;” Photo courtesy WMFF
Two of the WMFF’s events are a little different. The Nov. 6 screening is titled After Dark. In addition to six films, the 21+ show will include a presentation of the 2021 George Mallory Award to local Utah ski legend Julian Carr as well as live music from Pixie & the Partygrass Boys. The aptly named Best of Fest screening on Nov. 19 features the five award-winning films from this year’s virtual Wasatch Mountain Film Festival.
Return to Live? We’re happy to.
Screenings include audience giveaways, and every attendee will receive an entry to win a Yeti cooler. As an added bonus and a thank you to the hardworking health care community, health care workers are eligible for free tickets to any screening this November. Use the code Free4Heroes at purchase and bring your ID badge to the screening.
The venue, Clubhouse SLC, is a historic building on South Temple housing an incredible auditorium. It was developed by the Ladies’ Literary Club in 1913. The women’s only social club was devoted to cultural enrichment and self-education, values carried on to this day by Photo Collective Studios, which acquired the building from Preservation Utah in 2016 to promote arts and education through visual storytelling.
All shows begin at 7 p.m. Tickets for each event are $15, with the exception of the After Dark screening on Nov. 6, which is $25 per person. You can purchase tickets online here.
I’ve been a chef on the food side of things for a long time, so I always figured if something was messed up on the butchery side, I could cook my way out of it,” says John Courtney, owner of Chop Shop Park City. Those who haven’t spent the better part of two decades working in high-end restaurants alongside celebrity chefs, like Courtney has, aren’t so lucky. So Courtney opened Chop Shop Park City to lend a hand.
To catch culinary lightning in a bottle, it helps to start with the best ingredients. Courtney goes to great lengths to source everything at Chop Shop Park City. “It’s a three-headed monster with the butchery, the cheese and charcuterie…I try to get things locally whenever possible. There are so many wonderful artisans producing great craft items in the area, and I love being able to get their product on the shelf,” Courtney says.
John Courtney, owner of Chop Shop; Photo by Adam Finkle/Salt Lake magazine
The lamb in the butcher shop always comes from suppliers based in Utah. The beef comes from Creekstone Farms in Kansas. While not in Utah, Creekstone is a highly regarded chef-forward supplier (and the supplier for the famous Franklin Barbecue in Austin, Texas). “It’s a wonderful facility,” Courtney says. “From a lot of farmers, you get commodity-level products because their animals are treated like food. Creekstone is different. I’ve eaten the grains the animals eat, touched the earth they walk on. They’re cared for, and that comes through in the end product.”
Courtney could wax poetic about the virtues of various high-quality meats all day, but he built Chop Shop Park City to be more than a butchery. “There’s an exciting trend with new blood coming to town with unique expressions and concepts for cuisine. We wanted to be part of that,” Courtney explains. To that end, the dine-in and carry-out options at Chop Shop include sandwiches made from craft ingredients and a Detroit-style, wood-fired pizza. Detroit pizza is typically cheddar-focused, but Courtney had the artisans at Gold Creek Farms in Kamas create a custom mozzarella with an altered hydration content for “a more exacting crunch.” Chop Shop doesn’t skimp on the details.
John Courtney, owner of Chop Shop;Photo by Adam Finkle/Salt Lake magazine
“I couldn’t be more excited to bring this concept to Kimball Junction,” says Courtney. “For both locals and visitors, I think there’s a great energy around changing cuisine here.” Pick up some of the finest ingredients and cook your way out of them—Courtney is always happy to share some tips—or have the pros at Chop Shop take the guesswork out of it.
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Southern Utah often is often described as having a Martian landscape. Certainly, the hues evoke such comparison, but there’s also an unfamiliar quality to the red dirt and rock for many who visit. Not for Ethan Nell. The born-and-raised southern Utah local is a professional freeride mountain biker. He practically grew up on two wheels and his riding style, perfectly adapted to the unique setting, is as much a reflection of where’s he’s from as who he is. Nell is among the 15 riders taking on the steeps around Virgin for Red Bull Rampage this weekend. After back-to-back third place finishes in 2017 and 2018, he’s eyeing the top step.
Rampage is perhaps the purest and most literal distillation of extreme sports. The world’s best mountain bikers tackle impossibly steep terrain with massive jumps and drops in the Utah desert. Just how big? Legitimately enormous. Check out the video below for a little illustration of what the riders are stepping up to.
Since the inaugural competition in 2001, Rampage has captured the attention of everyone from diehard mountain bikers to curious fans captivated by the red rock formations and death-defying stunts. Only nine riders have been crowned champion over the 14 events, highlighting how difficult it is to reach the top spot and earn the most prestigious title in freeride mountain biking.
With a combination of technical mastery on rugged terrain and a deep back of aerial tricks, Nell is one of the few riders on the planet with the ability to reach those heights. To do so, he’ll have to top a veritable who’s who of the best bikers in the world, including multiple time Rampage champions Kurt Sorge, Kyle Strait and Brandon Semenuk. The venue is the same as in 2017 when Nell bagged his first podium, and it’s about time a Utahn put his stamp on the local event as the world watches.
Tickets are sold out, but you can always hit the secondary market, hop in the car and head to Virgin. If you want to watch the madness and cheer on Nell from the comfort of your own couch, check out the Red Bull TV Livestream. Finals are slated to begin at 11 a.m. on Friday, Oct. 15.
Relive Nell’s 2018 third place run for a little preview of what you can expect come Friday in the video above. Read more outdoor coverage.
President Joe Biden is restoring the boundaries of Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monuments at a signing ceremony on Friday. The two national monuments in Utah will to back to their original 1.36 million and 1.87 million acres respectively after former President Donald Trump signed a controversial executive order shrinking Bears Ears by 85% and Grand Staircase-Escalante by 50%. The move is sure to be taken as a victory by conservation advocates who had fought to regain protections, but legal battles over the areas are likely to persist.
The National Monument protections have become something of a proverbial political football for the past three administrations. Former President Barack Obama created Bears Ears shortly before leaving office, which Trump unraveled with largest reversal of land protections in history. On his first day in office Biden signed an executive order calling for a review of the boundaries which had been reduced.
Nevertheless, the issue is far from settled as Utah Gov. Spencer Cox has already said the state would sue the administration if Biden were to restore the land protections unilaterally. That’s exactly what’s happening, so lawsuit incoming, I suppose. Cox would prefer the land’s status to be codified via an act of Congress so as to avoid a federal ping pong match using Utah’s public lands as a proxy. Looking at the recent track record in the U.S. House and Senate, I wouldn’t bet on something productive happening.
Interior Secretary Deb Haaland visited both monuments in April and subsequently submitted a report recommending the president restore the protections. Additionally, a coalition of Native tribes has been pressing the Biden Administration in recent weeks to act. The land contained within the National Monuments is considered sacred for numerous Native tribes including Navajo Nation, Hopi Tribe, Ute Tribe, Ute Mountain Ute Tribe and Pueblo of Zuni.
Opponents of the monument designations have sought to strip protections in favor of economic development opportunities from ranching to mineral extraction to tourism focused recreation. However, taking away access to public land—which, again, belongs to every single American—so a select few can try to make money on it isn’t typically a winning argument. State leaders, meanwhile, will continue to pursue avenues for achieving “local control” over federally managed lands. It should be stated this is a euphemism for privatization.
The battle over Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante is far from over, but the Biden Administration’s actions mean for the time being, conservation advocates have won the day.
Casey Crawford opened Prospect, one of Main Street’s longest continually operating businesses, in 2009. She’s seen Park City’s ebbs and flows, dips and recoveries and is still standing as a curator of Old Town’s culture as Main Street roars back to life. Prospect sells an eclectic mixture of men’s and women’s apparel, accessories and footwear that wouldn’t seem out of place in the trendier parts of NYC or LA. It shares space with a traditional barber shop in the back, Billy’s Barber Shop, and an outstanding coffee shop up top, Pink Elephant. It’s an elegant reminder of the creativity Main Street has always known and promises more of in the future.
Park City’s dining scene is rapidly evolving as new chefs bring unique viewpoints and influences to town. It’s an exciting time to eat in the mountains, and the Park Area Restaurant Association (PCARA) is partnering with an enormous selection of local restaurants to give us a taste of the budding variety on tap. For two weeks this fall—Friday, Oct. 1 through Sunday, Oct. 17—more than 30 establishments are participating in the annual Park City Dine About with culinary specials for locals and visitors alike.
The specials include two-course lunches for $10 or $15, as well as three-course dinners for $20 or $40. Whether at a local hole in the wall or one of Main Street’s famed fine dining restaurants, the Dine About offers great value for diners to sample a selection of the best food in Park City. For just $30 per person, you can enjoy a delectable lunch of pan-Asian cuisine at Sushi Blue followed by an authentic three-course Italian dinner at local-favorite Versante Hearth & Bar. For only $50, you can spend your afternoon sampling the menu at Salt Box Eatery and Catering before an exquisite evening at a revered Old Town establishment like Riverhorse on Main or Handle.
Locals, this is a wonderful opportunity to enjoy some of the finer aspects of the place you live without having to battle crowds while emptying your pocketbook. Visitors, this is a great way to dip into the varied aspects of Park City’s dining culture in a limited timeframe. And in case you need a place to stay during amid all this eating, PACRA is partnering with Stay Park City to offer lodging specials during the Dine About.
The changing colors in the mountains, crisp temperatures and empty trails are reason enough to explore the Wasatch Back during fall. The dining and lodging specials available with the Park City Dine About are the cherry on top that should seal the deal. Visit the Dine About website for a complete listing of participating restaurants and additional event details. It’s a unique opportunity to support local businesses while indulging in a bit of the good life yourself. Just be sure you come with an appetite.
The battle over Hideout’s annexation of Summit County open space in Richardson Flat still awaits resolution. It began way back in March 2020 when the Utah Legislature passed a short-lived law, H.B. 359, allowing a municipality to annex unincorporated land across county lines. The public—reviled by the secretive process surrounding a law clearly meant to serve a specific private interest—revolted, leading to the H.B. 359’s repeal, but not before Hideout’s council approved the annexation prior to the repeal taking effect. The council’s approval included a provision for a public vote, placing the annexation’s future in the hands of Hideout residents.
What’s this lawsuit all about?
Judge Brown’s ruling invalidated Hideout’s annexation on the grounds of a state code requiring new ordinances to be posted in public places or papers of record prior to becoming law. Hideout does not dispute the fact they failed to post the ordinance until after the deadline to do so had passed. The case will now head to an appellate court, which will determine whether the district court decision was just or a misapplication of the facts to state law.
The voters had their say on June 22, overwhelmingly approving the annexation by a two-to-one margin. Alas, the annexation was on. Or was it? On the very same day of the aforementioned vote, 4th District Court judge Jennifer Brown sided with Summit County in its lawsuit against Hideout, invalidating the annexation and damping anticipation of the long-awaited ballot count. Alas, the annexation was off. Or was it? The ruling is being appealed, meaning after more than a year of debate, grandstanding, finger pointing and general hand wringing, an ongoing court battle will ultimately decide the annexation’s fate.
Somehow society was able to weather a once-in-a-century pandemic with a mass vaccination program utilizing never-before-seen medical technology to neutralize the spread of a novel virus more quickly than we’ve been able to decide if a town with 358 eligible voters can annex open space next to a superfund site nobody wants to deal with. It’s Theatre of the Absurd. The end is the beginning, and time is a flat circle.
What’s really at stake? Ostensibly 350 acres of land destined for life as open space and low-density development if Summit County retains control or 600 homes and 100,000 square feet of business space including Hideout’s town hall and community center if courts decide the annexation is valid. Underneath it all, perhaps the fight represents the existential quandary for a community walking the knife’s edge between progress and chaos.
Is anything left to debate? The sordid process which brought us here was ill considered. The dichotomies of development vs. preservation and progress vs. stagnation have engulfed every corner of the community along the Wasatch Back. Yesterday’s Treasure Hill is today’s Hideout is tomorrow’s Highland Flats. This issue will be decided in a courtroom, far beyond the reach of the community’s voices. However it ends—if it ever does—one thing is certain: plenty of people will be unhappy about it.
The fanny pack felt a little silly when I strapped it around my waist. The manufacturer calls it a “trail runner neoprene bear spray holster,” but we all know it’s a fanny pack. If the hipster bonafides of the belted pouch weren’t bad enough, the bear spray within felt overzealous. Carrying it on a trail run felt like packing a harpoon for a shark attack while surfing. Nevertheless, the mortification that during a good grizzly mauling my final thoughts would be of the protective spray I’d left in the car in the name of vanity was too much to ignore. Even with the odds thoroughly stacked in my favor, I was happy to be packing some atomized pepper-spiced deterrent once I realized I hadn’t seen anyone in miles and that eerie sensation of being completely alone deep in the woods set in. Big Sky was big country, and getting away from it all was as easy as setting off into the wilderness.
I needn’t have worried about bears that day, just the ability of my legs to finish jogging the ambitious—for me, anyway—route from Big Sky Resort to the Big Sky Meadow Village via the Mountain to Meadow Trail. The stunning trail is popular among mountain bikers, hikers and trail runners, but on this weekday afternoon as drizzling rain transformed into early season snowfall, solitude was all around.
Montana can seem like a lifetime away. It’s an untamed place with landscapes grand enough to make you feel as insignificant as one of those dry flies getting eaten by a trout on the Gallatin River. But it’s only five and a half hours from SLC to Big Sky and less than 60 additional minutes to the comparative metropolis of Bozeman. Time to hit the road. We’re heading to Big Sky Country.
A River Runs Through It
The Gallatin River cuts a picturesque canyon through Bozeman and Big Sky. The river was named for Albert Gallatin, the Secretary of the Treasury during two presidencies and, notably, the Lewis and Clark expedition. I don’t know if the guy was a big fly fisherman or what, but today, anglers from around the world come to experience the blue-ribbon fisheries on the river bearing his name. Gallatin opposed the forced relocation of Native Americans, at least, so I suppose the moniker is less ignominious than some others coined during western expansion.
The evolution of Big Sky and Bozeman mirrors much of the American West as trapping and prospecting ultimately yielded to tourism and recreation. Where late 1800s loggers rode down the river atop felled trees to prevent jams, tourists now load into rafts to tackle the infamous “Mad Mile,” an extended stretch of class IV rapids. The aforementioned anglers cast along some of the same stretches, immortalized in A River Runs Through It. Up in the hills, a real estate developer purchased 100,000 acres of timberland and, after some land swaps with the U.S. Forest Service, created one of the world’s most expensive and exclusive ski and golf communities, the Yellowstone Club. Despite softened edges, Montana is still wild country with untapped potential for exploration. Just don’t forget the bear spray.
What to Do
The ideal starting point for exploring an area is by learning about its history and the people who came before. Stop in at the Gallatin History Museum, which is housed in the former county jail and has a wealth of artifacts from Southwest Montana’s past. These range from the curiously morbid—preserved jail cells and hanging gallows—to the scholarly—newspapers, maps and a 20,000-strong photo archive.
Fly-fishing the Gallatin River. Photo courtesy Montana Office of Tourism and Business Development.
After studying the past, it’s time to enjoy the present. Don’t overthink it. Head out on the water for some world-class fly fishing with Gallatin River Guides. It is some of the best in the world with high catch rates for brook and brown trout. Even if the fish aren’t snapping at your flies with the frequency you’d prefer, it’s tough to have a bad day in such a picturesque setting. There’s a reason they made a whole movie centered around Brad Pitt casting on these waters.
After finishing up on the water, head to Big Sky Resort to explore the high country. The center of the resort, Lone Peak, is a towering laccolith that dominates the skyline at 11,166 feet. People of all ages and abilities can reach the summit on the half-day Lone Peak Expedition, where safari-style vehicles drive guests up the mountain’s flanks before they’re whisked to the top in the Lone Peak Tram. Those who prefer using sweat equity to reach Montana’s highest scenic overlook can hike up the Summit Climb trail, while the adrenaline seekers can enjoy the resort’s lift-served mountain bike trails.
Southwestern Montana is more than an evolved relic of western expansion; it’s become the creative capital of the state. Visit the Bozeman Art Museum to experience artwork representing the traditions, history and future of its people and cultures. Still, we’ve only scratched the surface. There’s that little-known National Park—widely regarded as the world’s first—called Yellowstone just down the road.
Where to Eat and Drink
A good day in the mountains around Big Sky starts with a solid caffeine kick. Caliber Coffee Roasters, has some great local roasts and breakfast options—it’s hard to go wrong with a chicken-fried steak in the morning. After some outdoor adventure, grab a different type of brew at the Lone Peak Brewery. Lone Peak has a huge selection of 14 beers on tap, and, with the best burgers in Big Sky, it’s more than just a spot for suds. In the evening, check out Olive B’s Big Sky Bistro. The menu has mountain classics like rocky mountain elk, lamb chops and a wild game Bolognese, but, with the chef’s New England roots, also features seafood like crab cakes and an absolutely decadent lobster mac and cheese.
Elk meatloaf from Tupelo Grill. Photo courtesy Tupelo Grill.
When in Bozeman, enjoy the budding culinary culture. Whistle Pig Korean is home to authentic Korean dishes. The Dak Bulgogi with marinated chicken and the Kimchi Jjigae with tofu and pork stew is delicious, but there are also wonderful vegetarian options including a high-protein Bibimbap. Feast Raw Bar & Bistro is an upscale eatery offering locally sourced meats—try the bison carpaccio—and sustainably sourced fresh seafood—the daily ceviche and house poke are outstanding. Meanwhile, Colombo’s Pizza and Pasta is an old-school institution that’s been serving up authentic Italian cuisine for 26 years and is better than ever.
Where to Stay
You don’t get the full Big Sky Country experience by staying in some cookie-cutter, pseudo-luxury mountain lodge. Bodhi Farms is a unique lodging option allowing visitors to be part of the outdoors in complete comfort. The boutique eco-resort and permaculture farm is situated on Cottonwood Creek just south of downtown Bozeman with nine glamping tipis, a spa tipi, a wood-fired sauna, yoga classes and farm activities, all with incredible views of the Gallatin mountains.
Kootenai Falls Swinging Bridge. Photo courtesy Montana Office of Tourism and Business Development.
While the name is hyperbolic, Hardscrabble Ranch is another great option for people looking to immerse themselves in the Montana mountains. The property has luxurious canvas glamping tents set alongside the scenic Brackett Creek, all featuring handcrafted beds and furniture along with decks to soak in the views of nearby Ross Peak. Hardscrabble also features two lodges with a hip, minimalist aesthetic. The rooms and shared spaces have modern mountain décor and wooden art installations for a quirky mountain vibe.
Built in 1919 and originally called the Halfway Inn because it marked the midpoint between Bozeman and West Yellowstone, Rainbow Ranch is a Montana classic. The lodge is set on the banks of the Gallatin River with a rustic yet elegant construction that is right at home in Big Sky. The infinity pool hot tub offers incredible views and is a perfect spot for a relaxing soak at the end of a long day exploring the mountains and rivers in Southwest Montana.
Road Trip 1: Glacier Country Trip
Start: Columbia Falls / End: Eureka
Things are bigger in Glacier Country. From the scale of the mountains in Glacier National Park to the limitless recreation opportunities in Whitefish, enjoy the expansive wilderness and vibrant outdoor activities unique to Montana.
1. Rafting the Great Bear Wilderness
Paddle outrageously scenic whitewater on the Flathead River with Glacier Guides. Eco-conscious trips in Glacier National Park are an unforgettable way to experience pristine wilderness. Spend the night at Two Medicine Campground and refuel at Two Medicine Grill with some huckleberry pie.
2. Travel the Going-To-The-Sun Road
The 50-mile long Going-To-The-Sun Road bisects Glacier National Park, crossing the continental divide at Logan Pass. Open only in summer, the scenic byway passes by glacial lakes, through cedar forests and into alpine tundra. It’s a remarkable place for a road bike ride or a gorgeous drive. There’s a free shuttle for hikers to try the 10-mile roundtrip Siyeh Pass Trail.
Biking Going-to-the-Sun Road. Photo courtesy Montana Office of Tourism and Business Development.
3. Explore Whitefish
The famed resort town is built along a seven-mile-long glacial lake with Whitefish Mountain Resort looming high above. Rent a mountain bike to explore the town’s network of singletrack trails or take a SUP or kayak from Paddlefish Sports out to Whitefish City Beach. Sample classic Montana fare like the Elk Meatloaf at Tupelo Grille.
4. Climb at Stone Hill near Eureka
Eureka is tucked into the far northwest corner of Montana, just six miles from the Canadian border. In this remote area near the Kootenai National Forest is the Stone Hill Climbing Area, where quartzite crags have more than 500 routes rated 5.10 or higher. Stop in at Rocky Mountain Outfitter in Kalispell for some beta.
5. Hike Kootenai Falls near Libby
Kootenai Country remains wild. The Revenant and The River Wild were both filmed here for a reason. Hike to Kootenai Falls, the largest undammed falls in the state and take in views of the Kootenai River while crossing the iconic Kootenai Falls Swinging Bridge.
Road Trip 2: Hot Spring Heaven
Start: Boiling River in Gardner / End: Chico Hot Springs in Pray
Bozeman Hot Springs. Photo courtesy Montana Office of Tourism and Business Development
Adventure in the mountains can be an exhausting endeavor, so why not partake in one of the most relaxing activities possible? The Treasure State is home to scores of natural, mineral-rich hot springs. Take a dip.
1. Boiling River
Immerse yourself in completely natural hot springs around the Boiling River. Set in Yellowstone National Park, there’s no resort or infrastructure, just hot and cool water entering the Gardiner River, creating the perfect temperature for a soak.
2. Spa Hot Springs
Flathead Blackfeet and Crow tribes considered the valley where Spa Hot Springs is located neutral ground so everyone could experience the healing properties of the water in peace. Today you can enjoy two outdoor pools, an indoor pool and a lodge on site.
3. Norris Hot Springs
Stay for the night at Norris Hot Springs where an onsite campsite, restaurant and live music have everything you need for entertainment and relaxation. The eco-friendly pools are drained each night and the water is recycled back into its natural spring.
4. Bozeman Hot Springs
For more than 100 years, people have rejuvenated with a dip in Bozeman Hot Springs in the heart of the Gallatin Valley. The springs range in temperature from 59 to 104 degrees so you can find the right temperature no matter where you prefer the thermostat set.
5. Chico Hot Springs Resort and Spa
Chico Hot Springs is the perfect base camp for outdoor adventure. Whether you want to explore Yellowstone National Park, go fly fishing or hike the mountains above Paradise Valley, the 103-degree pools and on-site lodging with cozy cabins mean you can end your day with a relaxing soak.
Road Trip 3: Big Horn and Beyond
Start: Billings / End: Billings
Pictograph Cave State Park. Photo courtesy Montana Office of Tourism and Business Development.
American history is written into the Montana landscape. Everyone knows Custer died at Little Bighorn. What this road trip presupposes is maybe his legacy didn’t? With apologies to Eli Cash, hit the road from Bighorn to the Badlands with pictographs, cemeteries and canyons, following historic trails etched in time.
1. Pictograph Cave State Park
Leave Billings heading south to Pictograph Cave State Park to follow in the footsteps of prehistoric hunters who inhabited the area 2,000 years ago. More than 100 pictographs endure on the walls of Pictograph, Middle and Ghost Caves.
Pompeys Pillar National Monument, Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail. Photo courtesy Montana Office of Tourism and Business Development.
2. Pompeys Pillar National Monument
The 200-foot-tall sandstone rising above the Yellowstone River is a testament to western frontier history. The rock face is covered in drawings from over the centuries, and Captain William Clark carved his signature and the date into the rock. It’s the only site on the Lewis and Clark Trail where evidence of the expedition is visible to the public.
3. Range Riders Museum and Montana Bar
Eastbound to Miles City. Stop at the Range Riders Museum for exhibits on the town’s Native and pioneer heritage. Afterward, taste history at the Montana Bar. Opened in 1908, the authentic western bar is almost unchanged with steer heads and taxidermy on the walls, original Italian floor tile and wooden booths, and, of course, a steakhouse serving up Montana beef.
4. Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument
Visit the site of Custer’s last stand, honoring the memory of the American Indian warriors and U.S. Cavalry soldiers who died during battle in 1876. Explore the area with Apsaalooke Tours, which employs Crow Indians as guides, from the Reno-Benteen Battlefield, where the battle began, to Last Stand Hill, where it infamously ended.
5. Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area
Turn south to the Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area, which is referred to as the “Grandest Canyon in the Northern Rockies.” More than 70,000 acres straddle the Montana/Wyoming border with numerous recreation opportunities, like trout fishing in the river below Afterbay Dam. (linksmagazine.com)
6. Chief Plenty Coups State Park
Nestled in the base of the Pryor Mountains, Chief Plenty Coups State Park is one of only three U.S. State Parks located on an American Indian reservation. Visit the home of Chief Plenty Coups—a National Historic Landmark—the last chief of the Crow. There’s no camping in the park, so head back to Billings for the evening.
Road Trip 4: Meander the Missouri River
Start: Fort Benton / End: Havre
Fort Peck Theatre. Photo by Montana Office of Tourism and Business Development.
From its headwaters at the confluence of the Gallatin, Madison and Jefferson Rivers, the Missouri River cuts a meandering swath across Montana. Journey through expansive landscapes to the relics of the Old West.
1. Canoe From Fort Benton
The historic settlement of Fort Benton was once the starting point for navigating the Missouri, and today it’s a popular launching point for recreational river trips. Adventure Bound Canoe rents all the gear you need or can lead guided trips down the Missouri, where you’ll float and camp in remarkable settings.
2. Fishing and Poetry in Lewiston
A ranching community in the center of Montana brings together western tradition and outdoor recreation like few other places. Anglers can enjoy outstanding brook trout fishing along the Judith River, while those in search of a more cultural experience can check out the Mountain Cowboy Poetry Gathering and the Western Music Rendezvous, both in Lewiston.
3. Birding and Beer in Malta
The Bowdoin National Wildlife refuge is home to more than 260 bird species. 84,000 acres of wetlands and native prairie provide habitat to an enormous variety of wildlife. Take in the sights through binoculars then tip one back at the Blue Ridge Brewing.
4. Play and Plays at Fort Peck
Fort Peck sits at the head of the 134-mile-long reservoir of the same name where the walleye and northern pike practically jump out of the water. After pulling up anchor, visit the historic Fort Peck Theatre to catch a musical or play.
Bear Paw Battlefield National Historical Park. Photo courtesy Montana Office of Tourism and Business Development.
5. History in Havre
The Bear Paw battlefield near Havre—one of the three sites of the Nez Perce Historic Park—is where Chief Joseph spoke his famous words, “From where the sun now stands, I will fight no more forever,” surrendering to the Army, ending the Nez Perce War in 1877. A groomed, mile-long interpretive trail winds through the historic battlefield. Afterward, head back to Havre for some wonderful baked goods and sandwiches at local favorite, Grateful Bread.
As plumes of smoke rose above Park City in August, residents and visitors received a stern reminder of the ever-present wildfire danger the town faces. The skies ominously darkened in the early afternoon while flames from the Parleys Canyon fire leapt up the hillside along I-80 towards neighborhoods on the western edge of Snyderville Basin. A tremendous interagency response involving hundreds of firefighters and dozens of aircraft was able to contain the blaze, but the evacuations of thousands of Summit Park and Pinebrook residents underscored the precarious nature of the ground this mountain community is built on. Officials in Park City are planning steps to mitigate the threat with prescribed burns on the hillsides above Historic Old Town, even as some expect to encounter public pushback.
The Park City Council authorized an agreement for up to $300,000 in wildfire risk reduction for the Treasure Hill acreage above Old Town after City Hall received a submission from Wanship-based firm Alpine Forestry LLC. The submission outlines plans for controlled burns across the mountainside acreage, which has been owned by the city since a $64 million deal in 2019 that protected the area from further development. The area constitutes a wildland urban interface (WUI), wherein expensive homes and other structures in Historic Old Town mix with undeveloped land on the flank of Park City Resort. The landscape is highly susceptible to wildfire danger and is a prime candidate for some kind of mitigation effort.
Even when appropriate and well-intentioned, fire mitigation often runs up against pushback. Such was the case when Basin Recreation undertook a multi-year fuel reduction project in the Summit Park area. The award-winning effort consists of removing hazardous fuels by patch-cutting, selectively thinning and removing ladder fuels and brush before placing them in slash piles and burning them under supervision in appropriate conditions. Despite the project’s urgent need—as recently proven—and flawless execution, public forums like the always-entertaining Nextdoor platform were full of misinformation about deforestation and tree removal. Forest thinning and fuel reduction not only helps keep homes from burning down, but also dramatically improves forest health. Nevertheless, the spread of negative opinion took a substantial public education campaign to initially overcome, and some still lodge protest to this day.
Slash piles slated for controlled burns in Summit Park last winter. Similar strategies may be employed on the Treasure Hill acreage above Old Town.
The mitigation plans for Treasure Hill are long overdue. But as certain as I am the fuel reduction strategies and controlled burns are merited, I’m equally confident there’s going to be some sort of public response decrying it. City Hall can’t seem to sneeze without inviting controversy—see the never-ending row about a Black Lives Matter mural on Main Street—or how everything from development debates to issues about contaminated soil conversations veer towards falsehoods and ad hominem attacks. When prescribed burns send smoke aloft over Main Street and multi-million dollar second homes, people likely won’t bite their tongues. In short, good luck, City Hall.
Ideally the community begins to engage in conversations about fuel reduction and fire mitigation early and often to help guide public opinion in the right direction. Natural and well-managed forests aren’t filled with deadfall and overgrown brush and ladder fuels like the area surrounding Park City. As a recent fire evacuee and a former Old Town resident, I can assure you a little forest pruning is preferable to worrying about your house burning down. City Hall is trying to prepare for the inevitable to make the community a more sustainable place to live, especially as it continues to expand. One question remains: is the community at large willing to invest in and support an ounce of prevention? That’s not an easy answer these days.
After this story was published in our print issue and online, Park City Song Summit organizers announced that the festival will be cancelled in 2021. Read the update here.
What Is the Park City Song Summit?
The Park City Song Summit (PCSS) is no ordinary music festival. “It’s kind of like South By Southwest meets a TED Talk,” says PCSS founder Ben Anderson. More than 100 artists—each of them invited to be an artist-in-residence for the entire week from Sept. 8–12—will participate in a variety of events ranging from spirited concerts at venues like Deer Valley’s Snow Park Amphitheater and the Eccles Center to intimate Labs held in small venues on Main Street. A unique combination of live performances and discussion of craft build an edifice to the songwriting experience for audiences to connect with.
The Man With the Plan
Park City Song Summit founder Ben Anderson; Photo by Angela Howard/ Courtesy Park City Song Summit
“My dad was a gospel recording artist, so music’s always been part of my family,” says Anderson. He spent three decades working as a trial lawyer but hasn’t stopped performing live since he was in sixth grade, most recently with the Grateful Dead tribute band Aiko. After retiring from the courtroom, Anderson quickly found his way back to music. “Music adds dimension to our existence. I couldn’t stay away.”
The seeds of the PCSS were sowed when Anderson organized the Park City Songwriter Festival in 2019, blooming into this year’s event. “I love the history of music, how the shoulders we’ve all stood on from the most primal rhythm create notes and harmonies that affect the soul. Just like a song begins to take form, we took influence from people and places that inspire us to create something truly different.”
Beyond the Songs
Father John Misty; Photo by Emma Tillman
The Labs set PCSS apart from the ordinary. Some Labs are Masterclass-style discussions about songwriting. “It’s about the process and what makes songwriters tick. How do you take things from the muse we call life and distill it into three minutes we’ll keep coming back to forever?” Anderson explains. Others are unscripted conversations about mental health and addiction issues plaguing the music industry with artists like Langhorne Slim.
There are even visits with polymaths like SNL alum Fred Armisen and Olympic Gold Medalist Shaun White as they discuss creativity within music and outside pursuits and the complexities of fame. The Labs are unique opportunities to get inside the music and minds of artists like never before.
The Artists
Keller Williams’ Grateful Gospel; Photo courtesy Park City Song Summit
The lineup is a curated list of talented artists who support the event’s interactive concept. “We’re musical omnivores, so we wanted the lineup to represent the fabric of the music community with inclusivity and a variety of genres,” says Anderson. Highlights include performances from the likes of Father John Misty, Mavis Staples, Keller Williams’ Grateful Gospel, Iron & Wine, Fruit Bats, Josh Ritter, Andrew Bird and dozens more. See a full list of who’s playing live tunes and talking songwriting on the PCSS website.
Supporting the Cause
Fred Armisen; Photo courtesy Park City Song Summit
“Lots of people in the music industry are suffering,” says Anderson. “Being on the road, isolated and away from family is difficult, especially when it’s overlaid with mental health and addiction issues. We want to make the conversation around that less taboo and bring it into the open, so it’s easier for people to find the help they need.”
In addition to approaching the topic within some Labs, PCSS aims to achieve the goal by partnering with local and national nonprofit organizations addressing mental health, addiction recovery and suicide prevention issues.
Ticket Options
“There are so many different types of people who are music lovers. It was really important to us PCSS had something accessible for each one,’ Anderson says.
People who want to do it all can buy festival passes starting at $1,500
There are also ala carte tickets. Individual event tickets are available as well, with more affordable options including entry to premier shows at Snow Park and Eccles Center starting at just $50. Tickets can be purchased on the event website.
