The Ferry Building in San Francisco is the Beaux-Arts reigning queen of the Embarcadero, a downtown area running along the harbor. Opened in 1898, it was a transportation hub for trains and ferries on the scale of Grand Central Station, moving 50,000 people through the graceful interior arches under crystal skylights. Bridges and cars overtook ferry traffic, and by the 1950s, the building was in disrepair. As part of the Embarcadero revitalization project, the building was given new life and reopened as a public marketplace in 2003. It is still an active ferry launch, but with artisanal food purveyors and a rich history, it’s worth its own day trip.
Historic photo of Ferry Depot’s Marble Hall, taken in Oct. 21, 1899. Photo courtesy of The Library of Congress.
8 a.m. Coffee and Crepes on the Pier
Early morning at the Ferry Building is magical as the Oakland Bay Bridge emerges from the morning fog. The crowds are minimal, and even the gulls are quiet. Stop in for coffee or cold-pressed juice, then watch the city wake up around you from the pier that runs behind the Ferry Building. Sip and see if you can spot any sea lions.
Post-caffeine, head to Grande Crêperie for breakfast. Serving traditional French-style crêpes and buckwheat galettes, it is worth the splurge to get both sweet (sucré) and savory (salé)—after all, you’ll be walking a lot today. With small tables outside, find a spot and enjoy.
10 a.m. Architecture & Empanadas
The line for empanadas at the El Porteño Empanadas stall (great for a portable, midmorning snack) is worth the wait. Give yourself time to snag one (or two) after your tour with San Francisco City Guides (offering free tours with a suggested $20 donation) led by knowledgeable volunteers. Check out key sites throughout the city, including a 75-minute history and architecture walking tour of the Ferry Building. Most weekend tours start at 10 a.m. and require reservations. (sfcityguides.org/tour/ferry-building/)
12 p.m. to 2 p.m. Science and a Stroll
Walk down the pier/boardwalk side of the Embarcadero, eating crisp, warm empanadas as you go. While it’s less crowded than the street, there are still plenty of chances for people-watching. Bring a rain jacket (just in case) and take in views of Bay Bridge, Alcatraz and trawlers coming and going along the water. A series of bayside parks, shops and sights are mixed in with working piers.
Walk 10 minutes to Pier 15 and visit the Exploratorium, a hands-on science museum with over 700 touchable exhibits. The famous Tactile Dome is an extra fee and requires a reservation, but where else can you make your way through a giant lights-off sculpture of textures using only your senses (minus sight) to navigate? (Adults $40 plus $16 for the dome). (exploratorium.edu)
2 p.m. to 6 p.m. Angel Island + A Caviar Reward
While the Ferry Building is a beautiful marketplace, it is still an active ferry loading spot. At Terminal Gate B, catch a boat to Angel Island ($15+). The 30-minute boat ride is the most affordable way to tour the bay without paying tourist prices and you’ll pass directly in front of Alcatraz and get a great view of the Golden Gate Bridge. A state park with lovely trails and windswept slopes, Angel Island is perfect for strolling, picnicking or renting a bike. Before you board, grab a veggie-laden focaccia for lunch on the go. (goldengate.org; parks.ca.gov)
When you return (windswept, to be sure), put your name on the waitlist for dinner and head to the Tsar Nicoulai Caviar Cafe for a little bubbly/salty cocktail hour before dinner. Get a caviar flight, a glass of Brut and toast your sense of adventure. If you don’t want full caviar service, get the Seacuterie board—your caviar sommelier will explain everything if you are a novice.
Hog Island Oyster Company’s famous Clam Chowder. Photo courtesy of shopoysters.hogislandoysters.com
7 p.m. Dinner at Hog Island Oyster Company
Located on the waterside of the Ferry Building, Hog Island Oyster Company may well have the best oysters in San Francisco, along with an ever-rotating seasonal menu. Get a mix of the varietals, crispy old-bay fries, or house pickles with a cocktail to start.
Then, try a variety of shared plates, crudo, grilled oysters or the famous Hog Island Clam Chowder. You are in San Francisco, after all. Not your gloopy soup with chopped clams, this chowder is the real deal. Whole Manila clams swim in a broth of aromatic vegetables with smoky bacon, clam broth, soft-but-not-too-soft potatoes and just a hint of butter and cream. A perfect way to wrap up the day while you watch the sunset over the bay.
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