When many Utahns think of Homestead in Midway, east of Park City, phrases like “quaint” or “I went there with my grandparents” come to mind. In other words, “old.” YEAH. BUTIT IS OLD. Yes. It is. Homestead is a piece of Utah history. In the 1880s, the Schneitter family homesteaded a patch of land in Midway in the foothills of the ridge that separates Park City and the Heber Valley. GET IT? “MIDWAY.” There was silver in them ’thar hills above and the Schneitters discovered a generous hot spring source below. Simon “Jake” Schneitter created a bath and rooming house in 1886, where a dusty miner could scrub and rest. They added dining, more rooms and the resort was born, becoming a retreat centered around the Homestead Crater (more below).
New ownership has renovated the time-worn lodging and preserved the historic structures. But notably, the resort has six year-round heated (!) pools in a sprawling oasis outside the crater. New event spaces are planned and luxe suites and cabins have been added. This ain’t old Jake Schneitter’s homestead anymore. But it’s a welcome respite for a cozy winter escape with access to the new East Village at Deer Valley.
Here are the must-do activities once you get there:
Geology in Plain Sight
Ok. About The Crater at Homestead. Before the Schneitters arrived, the geothermal forces below the Homestead were formidable and erupted in geysers. A 55-foot-tall beehive-shaped mound with an open “blow hole” in the top, created by mineral deposits, serves as evidence. Until the 1990s, apart from some intrepid folks who had rappelled down in, few people had seen its interior, but the resort blasted a 110-foot-long tunnel into its base and opened it up. Now it’s open to swimmers, snorkelers and even SCUBA divers. (The water is deep enough to practice skills necessary for earning an open-water diving certification, which, we think, is cheating.)
‘This is Bowling, There are Rules’
Compared to schussing the slopes at Deer Valley and the crater, a geological wonder, how does a bowling alley rate this list? Well, we’ll tell you. Holiday Lanes in Heber has Big Lebowski-Wes Anderson vibes with decor that was retro before we thought it was and serves one of the best burgers in Northern Utah. It’s nothing fancy, just a smashburger made on a grill that dates back to the Kennedy administration. Plus, they have beer. Both kinds: Bud and Bud Light.
En-Globe Dining
On the back of the historically registered Virginia House, the preserved Schneitter residence features a patio with four heated globes for a private dining experience as the snow falls. The climate-controlled orbs can seat up to six people and truly make you feel like you’re in a snowglobe. Seatings begin at 4:15 p.m. and reservations are required—they start at $40.
Waterfall in the Snow
The biggest change at Homestead since the then-owner Jerry Simons blasted a tunnel in the crater in 1996 is the complete reinvention of the resort’s pool area. Six heated pools ranging up to temperatures of 94 degrees are spread across the grounds, and they offer private cabanas and curb service in the summer. The centerpiece is a huge pool that features a giant, flowing, churning waterfall above. We see what you did there, Homestead. Make a big, fun pool with a waterfall to tire the kids out while mom and dad look on from the hot tub. Good call.
Leaving So Soon? Here are three more Cool things in Midway to see
The Pride of Midway
What picturesque little mountain town with Swiss Heritage is complete without an ice rink at its heart? None. In 2017, after warming winters made the town’s natural rink iffy, a group of citizens banded together to raise funds for the equipment to ensure the town would have its beloved Midway Ice Rink. Today, the tradition is in full swing, offering all the charm and scenery you could hope for on a winter escape.
Live Your Olympic Dreams
Did you know that the Utah Olympic Nordic Center, more commonly known as Soldier Hollow, has the largest snow tubing course in Utah? The folks at Soldier Hollow prefer to tout it as a major venue in the 2002 Winter Games and a continued legacy as a training ground for Olympic-level athletes from around the globe, so the tubing hill doesn’t get much press. And sure, there’s a world-class cross-country course open to the public and all that, but everyone can tube, right? Or you can do the other things, if that’s your deal. Go win a gold medal already.
‘You’re a Wizard, Harry’
Enjoy a 90-minute evening train ride on the Heber Valley Railroad through the Heber Valley and along the shores of Deer Creek Reservoir. Many of the Monday Night Trains have themes like the adults-only Hot Winter Night Train with live music and gunfights, and for the kids, the Wizard’s Train, which includes themed treats like chocolate frogs and Butterbeer. Hogwarts tuition not included.
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