Eat & Drink

In Salt Lake City we have dozens of Thai food restaurants. But most of their dishes taste like they came out of a single commissary. I always envision a warehouse space in South Salt Lake churning out the full spectrum of curries with Thai restaurant people stopping by with their big pickle buckets to pick up their share. Restaurateur Anny Sooksri wants to share a very different idea of Thai.

Growing up in Thailand, Sooksri learned to love all kinds of Thai food and her Salt Lake restaurant group including Tea Rose Diner, FAV Bistro, Chabaan and Siam Noodle Bar reflect different facets of Thai cooking. Visit each one for some of the best Thai food in Salt Lake City to understand the breadth of this crave-worthy cuisine.

1. Tea Rose Diner, 65 E. 5th Ave, Murray, 801-685-6111 Formerly a hot dog joint, Tea Rose’s interior reflects its humble all-American origins and there are still American dishes on the menu. The usual red, green, yellow, Panang and Massaman curries are excellent. But we chose the more unusual dishes and we loved the Jungle Curry—your choice of meat with krachai—a tuber sometimes called, inaccurately, little ginger and a bunch of different vegetables: bamboo shoots, bell pepper, carrot, bell pepper, baby corn, zucchini and mushrooms. (This veg load gives you permission to eat beef tomorrow.) And we’d never seen anything like the pad Thai loosely rolled into a thin egg omelette. Which was great—we love surprises.
2. Fav Bistro, 1984 E Murray Holladay Rd, Holladay, 801- 676-9300 Thai breakfast. Not the first thing we think of in the morning, but a great alternative to the usual ham & eggs repast. Several of Sooksri’s restaurants serve breakfast—Thai fried eggs, for instance, eggs mixed with vegetables and served over rice. Or an omelet made with coconut milk and turmeric. You can also order vegan versions of these and, yes, for the timid, American breakfasts are also on the menu. But why?
3. Chabaar Beyond Thai, 87 W. 7200 South, Midvale, 801-566-5100 Curry Pot Pie is a genius cross-cuisine hybrid that’s becoming a fixture on Thai menus in California but I’ve never seen it here: the idea is obvious, so why doesn’t every place do it? Just choose your favorite red, yellow, green or massaman curry with pork or tofu. It comes baked under a pastry crust over the top.
4. Siam Noodle Bar, 5171 Cottonwood St. #160, SLC, 801-262-1888 (Intermountain Medical Center) Many think chicken soup is the panacea for all ills. Clearly they haven’t tried the gluten-free broth and noodle soups at Siam Noodle Bar—the best hospital food ever because it would be delicious in any setting.

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This Hori Hori garden knife ($30) from Barebones Living makes transplanting tomato starts a snap.

For the love of a homegrown tomato, really, nothing should ever stop you from growing at least one plant yourself. Unlike many things you can fail at, organic gardening, is worth the attempt, simply because the victory of the tasting is so very sweet.

I grew up in the midwest, and from a small town in Southern Indiana where pretty much everything grows easily, including the weeds. Utah gardening offers different challenges, our soil tends to be salty and lacking organic matter, our weeds are sticky and prickly, pests like snails and slugs, potato bugs (my fellow Hoosiers call them roly-pollies) and earwigs can take down a plant in seconds, and our precipitation is generally scarce, although this spring has been, unquestionably wet. Being an active gardener brings you a heightened awareness of the weather and surroundings like nothing else can.

With gardening, there are always exceptions and things you need to anticipate. One that you’ll face when planting tomatoes is to avoid transplanting them into the garden too early. Unless they are under a garden row cover, blanket or other fancy tomato-saving contraption to insulate them, tomatoes (and several other summertime veggies) will croak if the temperatures dip under 42 degrees. When in doubt, wait a week to transplant, or cover them. And honestly, getting them in early doesn’t bring a ripe tomato to you any sooner. The ripening process is a natural phenomenon, especially those big ones, they know when it’s time, and that is generally in late July/ early August.

I’ll walk you through a few early steps in soil prep and transplanting tips to help get those tomato starts well on their way.

1. Plant stalks are hearty, leaves are green (not spotted) and check for aphids.
2. Soil preparation is possibly the most important consideration. When soil is described as loamy, it’s got a nice “feel good” mix of organic and inorganic matter (compost, clay, sand/silt). This is important for water retention, drainage and of course, providing nutrients to the plant.
3. On planting day, you may want to amend your planting area or each hole with crushed eggshells or organic tomato fertilizer. Follow instructions.
4. After gently removing tomato plant from its container, sprinkle mycorrhizae (we call it “mike”) fungi to stimulate root development before placement.
5. Gently surround the plant with soil, pack lightly and up to its true first leaves.
6. Watering is a daily practice with new transplants, just around the base (not the leaves) although that’s just a good thing until roots get established. I like the thumb in the soil method, nothing is better than feeling the ground to find out how deep the moisture is. surface soil may appear dry when under the surface is just fine.
7. Mulch it. To cut down on weeds, aid in moisture retention and protect the plants from disease.

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Ramen and pho are the soups du jour—the go-to broths for millennials, with a growing fan base among, well, everyone else. Since moving to Utah, Texan Adrian Duran, whose day job is working with Mexican food at Rico’s, has been systematically sampling pho restaurants in Salt Lake City and beyond.

“My number one criterion is the broth,” he says. “It has to be deep, with a resonance in the mouth that only comes from long cooking. I think oxtail adds a lot to the body of a broth.”

Second to that priority for Duran is the noodles (they should be house-made) and the garnishes (the spicy fresh counterpoint to the deep broth). Ideally, the meat should be cooked by the broth just so it’s still pink.

Pho 28, 428 E. 900 South, SLC, 801-364-9918 This family-run spot offers six versions of pho, including chicken, with the special including beef eye of round, beef balls, brisket, tendon and tripe. Slightly limited in the choice of sauces.

La-Cai Noodle House, 961 S. State St., SLC, 801-322-3590. – Duran thinks the broth here is the best. Besides beef variations, La-Cai makes a vegetarian pho.

Asia Palace 2, 1446 S. State St., SLC, 801-485-1646 – Preferred to Asia Palace 1 and right across the street from Tosh’s Ramen if you want to do a soup comparison. The menu here is a little more Americanized, but the selections are bounteous.

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Yes, I can make “brunch” a tasty action verb if I want to. Mother’s Day is this Sunday, May 12, 2019. (A date BTW denounced by its own creator, Anna Jarvis, as a result of its commercialization.) As much as I agree with Anna, I still love Mother’s Day. See, all us moms really want is time with our kids, especially after they move out and never call. Might as well go out for brunch with me, err, I mean your mother.

OASIS CAFE

With a gorgeous courtyard patio, the brunch buffet at Oasis Cafe has something for everyone. The buffet will include the popular prime rib carving station, french toast with buttermilk glaze, crab cakes with mango salsa and a chocolate fountain for dessert. Little ones under 3 are free and reservations are highly suggested. 9 a.m. – 3:30 p.m. 151 S. 500 East, SLC, 801-322-0404.

HUB & SPOKE DINER

Did you say chicken and waffles?! Yes, ma’am. Hub & Spoke has an extensive Mother’s Day buffet featuring family favorites like rarebit smothered Kentucky hot brown, eggs benedict, omelets made to order and a dessert table. 9 a.m. – 2 p.m. 1291 S. 1100 East, SLC. Reserve your spot online here or by phone at 801-487-0698.

BAMBARA

Get on over to the Hotel Monaco, for Bambara’s Mother’s Day buffet. They will feature a variety of specials, including smoked pork or spinach benedict, grilled Scottish salmon with basil butter, Puget sound oysters with horseradish mignonette, and house-made pastries—yum! Enjoy drinks like the Bambara Bloody Mary or a Mimosa to celebrate the day. From 8:00 a.m. – 2:00 p.m., 202 Main St, SLC, 801-363-5454.

FLEMINGS

Flemings is offering a special three-course Mother’s Day menu starting at 10 a.m. including entrée selections of their signature eggs Benedict, steak, and spring vegetable quiche with filet mignon, barbecue Scottish salmon filet, or lobster. All entrees include a slice of Key lime pie or carrot cake. Berry Mimosas and butcher’s Bloody Mary are also available for an extra charge. 20 South 400 West (The Gateway) #2020, SLC, 801-355-3704.

GEORGE

Celebrate mom at George‘s Mother’s Day Brunch Buffet, featuring a Prime Rib Carving Station, Omelet Station, Shrimp Cocktail, Clifford Farm Eggs, French Toast, Salmon and more. Party of many? Yes, big groups are always welcomed here.  9:30 a.m. – 2 p.m., 327 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-487-0699.

PAGO

Head over to PAGO this Sunday for a 3-Course Mother’s Day Brunch, with house-made pastries, appetizer and main, plus mother-loving brunch drink specials. A kids a la carte menu is also available. Reservations are required. 10 a.m. – 2:30 p.m., 878 S. 900 East, SLC, 801-532-0777.

THE BRASS TAG — DEER VALLEY RESORT

The Brass Tag this Mother’s Day is serving a sumptuous brunch for the occasion. Enjoy breakfast selections such as shirred eggs with toast points and avocado, scrambled tofu with baby spinach, maple smoked bacon, oven roasted potatoes, and a selection of pastries, plus a waffle station with all the fixings. 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., 2900 Deer Valley Dr. E #301, Park City, 435-615-2410.

HEARTH AND HILL

Hearth and Hill restaurant also invites mothers, grandmas, families to its first Mother’s Day brunch on Sunday, May 12. A sumptuous buffet of all Mom’s favorites—and some brand new Hearth and Hill creations to try—along with seasonal beverages and spirited live music aim to set the perfect tone for a Mother’s Day celebration. From 10:00 a.m. – 2:00 p.m. For the full Sunday brunch menu and to make a reservation, please visit hearth-hill.com, 1153 Center Drive, Kimball Junction.

EDGE STEAKHOUSE 

Edge at Westgate Park City Resort is excited to host its first Mother’s Day brunch. Treat mom to one of the most comprehensive wine lists in Park City, with an in-house sommelier to help select a bottle, and a brunch menu featuring not only Snake River Farms domestic wagyu steaks, but rare finds like Miyachiku award-winning Miyazaki A5 Wagyu from Japan.  Inventive selections like lobster and black truffle risotto and silk road spicy shrimp will also on the menu. 3000 Canyons Resort Dr., Park City, 888-796-0765.

VERSANTE HEARTH+BAR

Versante is the go-to spot for gourmet Italian fare and is serving a spectacular three-course brunch. Main courses of smoked-pork eggs benedict, zucchini-cake eggs benedict, or a classic continental breakfast, complete with French toast with blackberry compote, or a smoked salmon plate. Dessert features zeppola or a ginger pear crostata. Three-course prix fixe; $45 and children’s menu available. 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., 2346 Park Ave, Park City, 435-604-4012.

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Actually, just the thought of a mitraillette sandwich is intimidating. Never mind that its name means “machine gun.” Thick links of spicy merguez sausage (a traditional Moroccan sausage made in this case by local meat maven Frody Volgger) are topped with a pile of perfectly twice-fried Belgian frites on a baguette. (If you’re a Pittsburgher, this may remind you of Primati’s famous sandwich.) The Belgian Andalouse sauce, which you can think of as Belgian fry sauce with some zip to it, ties it all together like the Dude’s rug. In Belgium, a craving for a mitraillette sandwich is typical after a night of drinking. Sort of like hitting the Village Inn or Taco Bell in Salt Lake terms. Here it’s served at Bruges, the Belgian waffles and frites shops, a business that native Belgian Pierre Van Damme started from a food stand at the Downtown Farmers Market. Now you can own your arsenal. I mean franchise.

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Utah has all too few larger than life colorful and talented people who make big waves in this often dull desert landscape. Aristides Boutsikakis is one—his bluster, his frightening frankness, his uncontrollable mouth and often-outrageous opinions made his character as well-known as the personal versions of his family’s Cretan cuisine that came from his kitchen. His beloved father gardened for the restaurant table, his mother turned out the incredible phyllo pastries that are one of the glories of Greek food. Aristo’s heart on his sleeve regarding his family contrasted with the giant chip on his shoulder.

Accordingly, his eponymous restaurant has consistently been one of Salt Lake City’s VERY BEST PLACES TO EAT. (All caps intentional.)

Don’t Miss
the Last Big Night

Aristo’s Greek Restaurant
244 S. 1300 East, SLC
(801) 581-0888
Reservations: www.aristosslc.com

Sad news: This Saturday night is the LAST NIGHT you will be able to eat the legendary octopus, lamb tacos, lamb shank garden greens, mezze plates … in fact, everything at this beloved restaurant on 1300 East.

Somewhat to his own surprise, Aristo has been given an offer he can’t refuse and he has, reluctantly, sold his restaurant to someone who will undoubtedly offer us food much less delicious..

This isn’t the last we’ll see of Aristo. He’s got plans—held Vegas-like close to his vest. But it is the last we’ll see of his cooking for awhile.

So go. If you’ve ever loved a spoonful of anything from Aristo’s kitchen Saturday night is the last night to sit on his patio. So GET IT WHILE YOU CAN. Tonight through Saturday.

The man himself will be in the kitchen, so you may not see him, but you’ll know he’s there— by the cursing coming from the back of house.

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