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Devils-tower

A Road Trip Through Wyoming

By Adventures, Travel

Oh my God. It’s full of stars.” Mary exclaims, nodding to the famous line from 2001: A Space Odyssey. But what else can you say from underneath a blanket of stars on the outskirts of Jackson, Wyo.? We’re here out here craning our necks upwards on an expedition with Samuel Singer of Wyoming Stargazing (1085 WY-22 Unit D, Jackson, 844-996-7827). Singer is a science educator and astrophysics nut. He founded the nonprofit in 2013, primarily because he can’t not talk about the night sky, but officially to provide astronomy programs for school kids in the Jackson area. The group funds its efforts primarily through group stargazing tours like this one. Lucky us, no one else signed up for this evening’s outing and we’ve got Singer, and his endless knowledge and enthusiasm, all to ourselves (along with warm drinks, cozy blankets and a little bootlegged whiskey for medicinal purposes).

Wyoming’s night sky is as advertised. Jackson and the surrounding communities have long worked to meet dark sky standards in their planning and zoning, and though the lights of Jackson are visible, they are not interfering with the millions of twinkling stars above. And it doesn’t hurt that Singer hauls along a massive tracking telescope with a pro-level 20-inch mirror for us to get a closer look at the prominent stops on his tour of the heavens, and on your left Andromeda!

night sky, Wyoming night sky, road trip, camping
Vedauwoo, Vedauwoo Campground & Recreation Area, Photo courtesy Wyoming Office of Tourism

It was a thrilling welcome to the wonders of Wyoming. Last fall, Salt Lake magazine’s executive editor—the late, great Mary Brown Malouf—and I braved the pandemic and set out to explore one corner of the Cowboy State on a tour that started with the skies and took us down to the bottom of the Snake River Canyon, bucking down roaring white water.

JACKSON. NOT JACKSON HOLE.

Mistakenly known as Jackson Hole, Jackson, Wyo. is an insanely affluent town located in the geographical depression called “Jackson Hole,” In the early nineteenth century, mountain men, many dispatched by David E. Jackson of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, sought fur in this part of the Oregon Territory, expanding on the explorations of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. The area’s appeal to the wealthy and well-heeled, who make Teton County the most affluent per-capita zip code in the United States, is obvious. This is a stunningly beautiful country, and Jackson is perfectly situated in range of two of America’s greatest national parks, Grand Teton and Yellowstone. Grand Teton National Park occupies the northwestern part of the valley encompassing the iconic, jagged peaks of the Teton Range. The Town of Jackson sits at the southern end. The Snake River threads through the entire valley from its headwater in Yellowstone National Park. These parks are part of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, one of the last remaining large, nearly intact ecosystems in the northern temperate zone of the Earth.

Snake River Brewing Company, Wyoming, Beer, road trip, travel
Snake River Brewing Company, Jackson, Photo by @snakeriverbrew

WHERE TO RANGE

Our evening under the stars was followed by an early morning call time for pick up by our guide from Jackson Hole Wildlife Safaris (650 W. Broadway, Jackson, 307-690-6402). The all-day excursion was essentially a grand tour of the greatest hits of Yellowstone (like Old Faithful, Grand Prismatic Spring and Yellowstone Lake) punctuated by “hurry! look!” sightings of pronghorn antelope and roaming bison. And although we were skunked on seeing bears or wolves, our guide kept up a steady patter of folksy wisdom, facts and tall tales that kept us laughing and rolling our eyes as we trundled around Yellowstone and back. Jackson’s adventurous residents pride themselves on a well-organized and fully segregated network of biking trails in and out of town, so the next day I decided to see what all the fuss was about. On the advice of the folks at Hoback Sports (520 W. Broadway #3, Jackson, 307-733-5335) I saddled up for the 40-mile road bike ride to Jenny Lake in Grand Teton National Park (Bonus: The park’s entrance gate has the cutest little mini-bike sized fee station to enter via two wheels.) This excursion, on one of the most immaculate road bike trails I’ve ever ridden, runs entirely below the imposing peaks of the Tetons and delivers you to the lake’s shore. Hoback Sports also rents pedal-assist E-bikes if you’d rather not slug it out. While I was out grinding below the Tetons, Mary opted to take a scenic chair lift ride to get a birds-eye view of the Tetons, the National Elk Refuge and the town of Jackson from 1,571 feet up to the summit of Snow King Mountain (402 E. Snow King Ave., Jackson, 307-201- 5464) For our final day, we saved the best for last. Running the “daily,” four-hour whitewater trip down the Snake River, is one of Jackson’s bucket list items. We signed up with Lewis and Clark Expeditions (335 N. Cache St., Jackson, 307-733-4022) and climbed into a raft with our salty guide (the aptly named Orion Hatch) Captain Hatch was about to give us a master class in whitewater, expertly rowing us into the deepest holes and into the biggest waves. The “daily” builds with increasingly wild rapids that crescendo with its most notorious—the Big Kahuna and Lunch Counter—where, during high river flow, boats commonly flip. Even this late in the season, the biggest rapids on the daily did not disappoint and we emerged, soaking, laughing and happy to have followed our captain’s very first command: “everybody stay in the boat, OK?”

Bison, Old Faithful, Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming, road trip, travel
Old Faithful geyser erupts at Yellowstone National Park as a young bison grazes nearby. The famous geyser erupts at an average interval of 90 mins, expelling up to 8,400 gallons of boiling water at up to 184 feet high.

WHERE TO EAT

All of this adventure requires sustenance. Start at the Bunnery Bakery and Restaurant (130 N. Cache St., Jackson, 307-733-5474) where a hearty breakfast menu and a selection of housemade baked goods fill both bill and belly. (Also amazing pies. Who says you can’t have pie for breakfast?) Lured in by the scent of smoking brisket, we discovered Hatch Taqueria and Tequilas (120 W. Broadway, Jackson, 307-203-2780) a modern Mexican spot where that brisket comes in taco form alongside what we decided was the best margarita in Jackson, As oppressed Utahns, one of our best finds was Bin 22, (200 W. Broadway, Jackson, 307-739-9463) a combo wine store and wine bar. Choose from the curated selection behind the bar or pick any bottle from the store’s Spanish and Italian selection. Drink it on the spot with a selection of small bites. We never wanted to leave. The Hotel Jackson’s house bar and restaurant, Figs (120 N. Glenwood St., Jackson, 307-733- 2200), was a unique surprise, a Lebanese-Mediterranean restaurant in the heart of cowboy land (the hotel’s ownership is Lebanese). The grilled lamb chop was the standout on a solid menu of Lebanese standards, including authentically prepared hummus, interestingly customizable with a selection of traditionally prepared meats and spices. And how could we not venture into the venerable Wort Hotel’s Silver Dollar and Bar & Grill (50 N. Glenwood St., Jackson, 307-733- 2190) to check out the famous Silver Dollar Bar, throw back a couple and enjoy the menu of hearty pub fare.

WHERE TO STAY

The Lodge at Jackson Hole

A down-home, friendly spot that is close to town but set back a secluded grove of pine trees. The hearty hot breakfast made an excellent start to the day and we loved the hundreds of cute little wooden bears adorning the lodge’s detailed carved wooden interior and exterior.

80 Scott Ln., Jackson, 307-739-9703

Hotel Jackson 

A gorgeous modern luxury hotel, a western accent, in the heart of Jackson. We loved Figs, the hotel’s signature restaurant, and the efficient and impeccable service we witnessed from arrival to departure.

120 N. Glen- wood St., Jackson, 307-733- 2200

The Wort Hotel 

The word “charming” doesn’t say enough about this gorgeous boutique hotel. Built-in 1941, The Wort is the grand dame of Jackson Hotels. Its famous Silver Dollar Bar was designed and built by a German cabinet maker using 2,032 uncirculated Morgan Silver Dollars from the Denver mint.

50 N. Glenwood St., Jackson, 307- 733-2190

Snow King Mountain 

Snow King Mountain has four distinct properties at or near its base—The Elk Country Inn, 49er Inn & Suites, Antler Inn, Cowboy Village Resort and one on-mountain, ski-in-ski-out option, The Snow King Resort Hotel.

402 E. Snow King Ave., Jackson, 307- 201-5464

ROAD TRIP 1: SALT TO STONE

Salt to Stone, Wyoming, Road Trip

Welcoming small towns brimming with local flavor and stretches of unscathed wilderness await visitors traveling from Salt Lake City into southwest Wyoming and northward to Yellowstone. The Salt to Stone region is a colorful Adventureland waiting to be discovered by road trippers. Trace the footsteps of mountain men and women, discover dreamy vistas by foot, bike, or car—and tour museums and attractions that showcase Western culture at its finest.

STARTING POINT: Evanston, Wyo.

1. ROUNDHOUSE & RAIL YARDS, EVANSTON 

Evanston is home to one of the only remaining complete roundhouses on the old Union Pacific line between Omaha and Sacramento. This historical building—used by railroads to store and service locomotives — has a turntable that is still operational.

2. FORT BRIDGER STATE HISTORIC SITE, FORT BRIDGER

Several restored buildings highlight the history of this 19th-century fur-trading post, a vital supply stop for wagon trains traversing the Oregon, California and Mormon trails. Tour the reconstructed trading post and museum.

3. FOSSIL BUTTE NATIONAL MONUMENT, NEAR KEMMERER 

Colorful geologic formations rise about 1,000 feet above Twin Creek Valley and possess some of the world’s best-preserved fossils, including those of fish, insects, plants, reptiles, birds and mammals.

Fossil Butte National Monument; Photo courtesy Wyoming Office of Tourism

4. STAR VALLEY SCENIC BYWAY

This picturesque 80-mile stretch of Highway 89 starts at the Idaho-Wyoming border, climbs up Salt Canyon and Salt River Pass and descends into the sprawling and verdant Star Valley. Then the route continues through the quaint communities of Smoot, Afton, Grover, Thayne and Etna before reaching Alpine and ending at the Lincoln County line in Snake River Canyon.

Salt River, Wyoming, road trip, travel, photography
Salt River in Star Valley; Photo by @tlynneufeld

5. JACKSON HOLE AERIAL TRAM, TETON VILLAGE 

Ride the tram in Teton Village up 4,139 feet to unparalleled wraparound views of Bridger-Teton National Forest and Grand Teton National Park.

Photo courtesy Jackson Hole Mountain Resort

ENDING POINT: Yellowstone National Park south entrance

ROAD TRIP 2: ROCKIES TO TETONS

Rockies to Tetons, Wyoming, Road Trip, Map

Those pining for epic outdoor pursuits will find plenty to do on a road trip through the Rocky Mountains to the Teton Range in the Rockies to the Tetons region, where the beauty of the Snowy, Medicine Bow, Seminoe and Wind River mountain ranges heighten the scenery—literally. Immerse yourself in nature through activities like rock climbing, hiking and biking, and delve into Native American, women’s suffrage and frontier history.

STARTING POINT: Summit Information Center, Laramie, Wyo.

1. WYOMING HOUSE FOR HISTORIC WOMEN, LARAMIE

See exhibits on Louisa Gardner Swain—the first woman in the world to vote under the Wyoming Territory law granting women the right to vote and hold office—and 12 other local women who paved the way in the women’s suffrage movement.

2. WYOMING TERRITORIAL PRISON STATE HISTORIC SITE, LARAMIE

This historic site is rich with tales of “violent and desperate outlaws,” the most famous of which was Butch Cassidy. Browse exhibits on the penitentiary’s prisoners and how it became a center for agricultural experimentation for the University of Wyoming.

Wyoming Territorial Prison State Historic Site; Photo courtesy Visit Laramie

3. ALBANY LODGE, LARAMIE

Flanked by the Snowy Range, Laramie Plains and Medicine Bow National Forest, this lovingly restored 1907 hotel and cafe is a terrific home base for adventures in the surrounding wildlands.

4. GRAND ENCAMPMENT MUSEUM, ENCAMPMENT 

Wander through more than a dozen preserved historical buildings furnished with artifacts showcasing the history of the timber, mining and agricultural industries of the Upper Platte Valley at the turn of the 20th century. Don’t miss the two-story outhouse.

5. WYOMING FRONTIER PRISON, RAWLINS

More than 13,500 people were incarcerated at the “Old Pen” during its 80 years of operation, including 11 women. Tour the prison, built in 1901 just three blocks off Main Street, to gain insight into its fascinatingly dark past.

6. WOMEN’S SUFFRAGE PATHWAY, NEAR SOUTH PASS CITY

Drive the Wyoming Women’s Suffrage Pathway, a 19-mile segment of Highway 28 southwest of South Pass City. The 1860s-era mining town is where Esther Hobart Morris served as justice of the peace and became the first woman to hold political office in the U.S.

7. LANDER BAR, LANDER

Originally opened as a saloon in 1908, the bar served as a hotel, brothel and boarding house— among other things—before it was turned back into a saloon. Order a whiskey or craft beer, the perfect thirst quenchers after a day of rock climbing at nearby Sinks Canyon State Park.

Lander Bar; Photo by @milettearoundtheworld

8. WIND RIVER HOTEL & CASINO, RIVERTON

Learn about the past, present and future of the Eastern Shoshone and Northern Arapaho tribes who reside on the Wind River Reservation in the establishment’s Northern Arapaho Experience Room and try your luck at the casino.

9. NATIONAL BIGHORN SHEEP INTERPRETIVE CENTER, DUBOIS

The world’s largest wintering herd of bighorn sheep roams this remote area. Stop by the National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center to view exhibits about the majestic mammals and set up a guided or solo tour to see them in their natural habitat.

ENDING POINT: Yellowstone National Park south entrance

ROAD TRIP 3: PARK TO PARK

Wyoming, Road Trip, Map

Follow the Park to Park Highway—a popular early 1900s auto route connecting 12 national parks in the West—to discover road-trip stops too special to ignore, from Wyoming’s lively capital city to quaint small towns that move at a refreshingly slower pace. Drop a line in one of the West’s most renowned fishing destinations, revel in prehistoric and natural wonders, and pick up perfect Wyoming mementos—like cowboy boots and local wine—to remember your journey.

STARTING POINT: Southeast Wyoming Welcome Center

1. TERRY BISON RANCH RESORT, CHEYENNE

Climb aboard a custom-built train for a ride out to the middle of the working ranch’s bison herd and bite into the Senator’s Steakhouse’s juicy bison burger, voted the Best Bison Burger in Wyoming by USA Today’s “10 Best.”

2. CHEYENNE BOTANIC GARDENS, CHEYENNE 

Linger in rose, herb, wetland, cacti and woodland gardens, admire the tropical plant collection in the stately Grand Conservatory and get an idea of what life was like for early Wyoming settlers in the historic Rotary Century Plaza.

3. TABLEMOUNTAIN VINEYARDS, NEAR TORRINGTON

Table Mountain Vineyards’ “pure Wyoming wine” is concocted from all-local ingredients. Make an appointment to stop in for sips of their semi-sweet Cowgirl Blush or the tart Cherry Rush.

4. GUERNSEY STATE PARK, GUERNSEY

Explore historical structures built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s, including a museum located at the top of a cliff that gives way to expansive views of a sparkling reservoir.

5. GLENDO STATE PARK, GLENDO

Sparkling Glendo Reservoir attracts boaters, water skiers, swimmers and anglers. Keep your eyes peeled for teepee rings and other artifacts left by Native American tribes who once inhabited the area.

Glendo State Park, North Platte River; Photo courtesy Wyoming Geological Survey

6. JACKALOPE SQUARE, DOUGLAS

According to legend, the jackalope was born in Douglas when two brothers mounted a jackrabbit’s body with deer antlers at their taxidermy shop. Pose with the 8-foot statue of the creature at Jackalope Square. Don’t forget to tag #ThatsWY

Douglas jackalope, Wyoming, road trip, travel
Jackalope Square; Photo courtesy Wyoming Office of Tourism

7. AYRES NATURAL BRIDGE, DOUGLAS 

Discover a 100-foot-long natural rock arch spanning La Prele Creek west of Douglas. This oasis has a short trail that leads to a view of the “bridge” from above, as well as picnic tables that offer a break from the road.

8. LOU TAUBERT RANCH OUTFITTERS, CASPER 

This downtown Casper institution has supplied locals and visitors with boots, hats and other Western essentials since 1919. With more than 10,000 pairs of boots in stock, you’re sure to find the perfect fit.

9. WYOMING DINOSAUR CENTER & DIG SITES, THERMOPOLIS

Hundreds of displays and more than 30 mounted skeletons tell storied tales of Wyoming’s prehistoric past. See the Archaeopteryx specimen—one of only 10 in the world—or opt for a dig-site tour, where you can dig for fossils yourself.

10. WIND RIVER CANYON, NEAR THERMOPOLIS

Travel through time on the Wind River Canyon Scenic Byway in Thermopolis to catch glimpses of Wind River Canyon’s 2,500-foot, pink-hued rock walls, which date back to the Precambrian period, as well as bighorn sheep and other wildlife. Keep an eye out for signage highlighting the canyon’s geology along the way.

ENDING POINT: Yellowstone National Park south entrance

ROAD TRIP 4: BLACK TO YELLOW

Black to Yellow, Wyoming, Road Trip, Map

Stories of the American West echo throughout the Black to Yellow region, home to kaleidoscopic landscapes and iconic sights. During your journey from northeast Wyoming’s Black Hills to Yellowstone, discover geologic marvels, dense evergreen forests and sprawling prairie lands. Step into the past to meet larger-than-life characters like Buffalo Bill Cody and find out what life was like in Wyoming during different periods in history.

STARTING POINT: Wyoming-South Dakota border, near Northeast Wyoming Welcome Center, Beulah

1. VORE BUFFALO JUMP, NEAR BEULAH

Stop by the small interpretive center to gain insight into how this natural sinkhole was used as a buffalo jump (a buffalo trap) from about 1500 to 1800 A.D. by at least five different Plains Indian tribes.

2. ALADDIN GENERAL STORE, ALADDIN 

Groceries, fishing supplies, Western wear and antiques are just a few things you’ll find at this gem, a general store built in 1896. Be sure to pick up some old-fashioned candy or sarsaparilla to enjoy on the front porch.

Aladdin General Store, Crook County, Wyoming, road trip, travel
Aladdin General Store; Photo courtesy Wyoming Office of Tourism

3. DEVILS TOWER NATIONAL MONUMENT, NEAR HULETT & SUNDANCE

Hike one of the four scenic trails at America’s first national monument, a 1,267-foot striated rock tower that gained fame as the filming site for Steven Spielberg’s “Close Encounters of the Third Kind.”

4. FRONTIER AUTO MUSEUM, GILLETTE

Get lost in this charming locale’s antique shop, old-timey general store and car museum, which features an array of shiny classic cars, vintage gas pumps, neon signs and other transportation memorabilia.

5. CHRIS LEDOUX PARK, KAYCEE

The legacy of the legendary hall-of-fame rodeo cowboy and country musician Chris LeDoux is immortalized in a sculpture titled Good Ride Cowboy at Chris LeDoux Park in Kaycee, where he lived on a ranch with his family.

6. WYO THEATER, SHERIDAN

Established in 1923, the WYO was one of the first vaudeville theaters in Wyoming and is now the oldest still in operation—bringing professional music, dance and theater to historic downtown Sheridan.

7. WASHAKIE MUSEUM & CULTURAL CENTER, WORLAND

Exhibits on paleontology, archaeology and early settlements portray the relationship between the historic inhabitants of the Bighorn Basin and their environment.

8. MEETEETSE CHOCOLATIER, MEETEETSE

Tim Kellogg, a saddle bronc rider and cowboy turned chocolatier, makes all of the artisan confections at Meeteetse Chocolatier from scratch daily. Choose from exquisite truffle flavors like prickly pear cactus and Wyoming Whiskey.

Meeteetse Chocolatier, Wyoming, road trip, travel, chocolate
Photo by @meeteetsechocolatier

9. BUFFALO BILL CENTER OF THE WEST, CODY 

Immerse yourself in the natural and cultural history and art of the region at five different institutions in one complex: the Plains Indian, Buffalo Bill, Draper Natural History, Whitney Western Art and Cody Firearms museums.

ENDING POINT: Yellowstone National Park east entrance 


Road trips courtesy of Wyoming Tourism and Miles Partnership. Find more along these routes and visit TravelWyoming.com for more stops and planning info. For more Adventures & Travel, click here.

Climbing-story-FI

Dirt Baggers Done Good: Salt Lake Climbers Alliance

By Adventures, Outdoors

This is my favorite part of the trail,” muses Julia Geisler, executive director of the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), as she steps over a series of large, flat granite stones, grouted with smaller versions of the same. The trail is the Alpenbock Loop, a new hiking, snowshoeing and climbing wall-access trail on the north side of the mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon. With its sections of cobble-like paths and tidy stone staircases, reminiscent of stone masonry walkways you’d find in a centuries-old English garden, sections of this trail do indeed have has an almost artistic quality. And then there’s the breathtaking scenery: soaring granite walls and long views both up the canyon and into the Salt Lake Valley. But this section of the canyon wasn’t always so idyllic. Just a few years ago, the land where the Alpenbock Loop and its accompanying Grit Mill parking area are now located was marred by a spiderweb of social trails (paths worn into the land where no one ever takes the same route twice) and abandoned industrial detritus. That was until the SLCA figured out a way to accomplish the goals of a few by creating a resource for many. 

Original members of Alpenbock Club
The Alpenbock Club, circa 1961 (from right to left): Rich Ream (the Club’s unofficial advisor/mentor), Ted Wilson, Curt Hawkins, Stan Ferguson, Dick Ream, Rick Reese, Dick Wallin, Bob Irvine, Court Richards and Gary Jones. Kneeling in front: Dave Wood (left) and Milt Hokanson.

Utah Climbing’s Non-Club 

“Membership was informal as hell,” says Ted Wilson, describing how he and a group of “spirited first ascensionists,” most of whom attended Olympus High School, formed the Alpenbock Club in 1959. “We never organized, like getting a 501C3 or anything like that. At first, we did vote on new members but then we laughed at that and when someone wanted to join, we’d just sit around and ask each other ‘is he a good guy?’” Wilson says the club formed when he and his friends “got tired of climbing the same ten to twelve routes in Big Cottonwood” and started focusing on the base of Little Cottonwood. Other members include Rick Reese, Bob Irvine, Ralph Tingey,  Jim Gaddis and Bob Stout. Wilson, in fact, made the first recorded ascent in Little Cottonwood Canyon in 1961, a route rated 5.6 that he called Chickenhead Holiday. The Alpenbock Club has never disbanded.

The granite walls rising above the Alpenbock Loop first caught the attention of local climbers back in the late 1950s. This scrappy band of high school-aged adventurers—including former Salt Lake City Mayor Ted Wilson—eked out some of the Wasatch Range’s first climbing routes. The Alpenbock Club and their friends had the Little Cottonwood climbing walls, known as crags in climber-speak, almost exclusively to themselves until the early 1990s. Then, the evolution of climbing gear opened the sport up to more than just the über-dedicated and more routes were developed both in Little Cottonwood and several other locales throughout Utah. By the early aughts, dirt baggers—an autobiographical moniker for climbers who chuck it all to climb, often living out of their car or van—from around the world were descending on Utah to climb, many lured by the reputation of the granite routes in Little Cottonwood. 

Historically and generally speaking, crags are developed without foresight as to how climbers will get to them. And so, because they carry heavy packs filled with ropes, harnesses, and other climbing gear, the path or approach to a crag is usually a straight line with little regarding for topography and plant life. Over time, the paths climbers beat to a crag can cause irreparable scarring, erosion and unnecessary danger—the steep and loose social trails leading to the Little Cottonwood crags were more challenging than the climbing routes they accessed.

Julia Geisler of the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
Julia Geisler of SLCA climbing a route at the Coffin in Little Cottonwood Canyon

“The network of social trails at Little Cottonwood, not to mention the damage that was occurring to the ecosystem and watershed, was not sustainable,” said Cathy Kahlow, the now-retired U.S. Forest Service’s Salt Lake District ranger from 2008 to 2016. The SLCA was formed in 2002, and in 2011, when Geisler became its first and only paid staff member, Kahlow approached her about solving the overuse problems in Little Cottonwood.

“SLCA was founded on the mission of keeping climbing areas open by forming relationships with landowners where climbing areas are located and being good stewards of the lands where crags are,” Geisler says.

Everyone’s Going Up 

If it seems to you like everyone’s climbing these days, either in the gym or outside, it’s no wonder. According to the American Alpine Club, in 2018 there were 7.7 million climbers in the U.S.; not an insignificant number when you consider in the same year, 10.3 million Americans considered themselves a skier or snowboarder. With more than a dozen climbing gyms and world-class climbing areas peppered throughout the state, Utah is a bona fide destination for the sport. In fact, when sport climbing makes its Olympic debut in Tokyo this July, Utah native Nathaniel Coleman will be a Team USA member to watch.    

“The popularity of climbing was really beginning to explode then, and so we knew we needed to do something in Little Cottonwood before that area was loved to death.” 

When You Go

The Alpenbock Loop can be accessed from two points: from the west at the Little Cottonwood Canyon Park ‘N Ride lot or from the east via the Grit Mill parking lot and Grit Mill connector trail. The route begins relatively flat from either direction before meandering up the mountainside over rock-stair switchbacks and through dense stands of Gambel oak. At the top of the loop, signed climbing access spur trails lead north up to world-famous crags ostensibly named The Coffin, The Egg and Bong Eater. (Referring to a piece of climbing gear, not something more nefarious.) Hikers should stay on the main Alpenbock Trail, as rockfall is possible at the base of the crags from those climbing above. The connector trail and lower part of the loop pass by the Cabbage Patch and Secret Garden, popular bouldering areas between the trail and the canyon road. Please note: the Alpenbock Trail is within the watershed, so dogs are not allowed.

It was clear early on that the access to the crags in Little Cottonwood would require professional planning and major funding, which meant a multi-year effort in a typical federal government timeline. “It takes a long time and many people to enact any kind of change on federal lands,” Kahlow confirmed. This is particularly true in regard to climbing, which is not a traditionally recognized use on Forest Service lands in the same way activities like hiking, picnicking, fishing and even skiing are. 

So, Geisler began pounding the pavement. Some of the organizations and individuals she hit up to help get the Alpenbock Project done include Trails Utah, the Cottonwood Canyons Foundation, the Mountain Accord (now the Central Wasatch Commission), Wasatch Legacy Project, Snowbird, Alta, REI and others. The physical part of the project finally kicked off in 2014 with the removal of the old poultry grit mill.

It took three years of fundraising before replacement of the treacherous social trails could begin in 2017. The Alpenbock Loop and Grit Mill connector trails were completed in late 2018. And the project’s last piece, the 34-stall parking lot and restroom, was completed in November 2020.

To date, the Alpenbock Loop Trail is the largest climbing access trail project completed on U.S. Forest Service lands in the nation. It was a major catalyst in the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest’s current work in creating a rock climbing management plan. And, after cutting its teeth on this project, the SLCA is now focusing on more than just trails. They launched the Wasatch Anchor Replacement Initiative, a campaign to replace bolts and anchors on climbing routes throughout the state, some of which date to the Alpenbock Club’s active era.

Why should non-climbers care about the Alpenbock Loop Project? First, it’s an illustrative and refreshing example of how the public sector and private interests can work together for the benefit of many. Second, it is an important piece in a greater vision for potential connectivity to other trails in that area, including the Bonneville Shoreline Trail and Temple Quarry Trail (As it is now, this trail is not really a significant contribution to the Wasatch Mountain’s vast anthology of bucket-list trails—at just a mile-and-a-half long, most dedicated hikers will find it way too short.) Moreover, it is one more place where, during these tough times, families can get outside and immerse themselves in the healing power of nature. And maybe even meet their first dirt bagger along the way. 

Looking for more things to do outside? Check out our Adventures Page.

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21/22 Ski Passes Now Available, Vail Resorts Announces Epic Pass Price Reduction

By Adventures, Outdoors

After a grimly dry and tragic beginning to winter in the Wasatch, the skiing and riding conditions have quietly been excellent since the calendar to flipped to February. Thanks to some record-setting snowfall around Valentine’s Day and a steady cavalcade of storms in the weeks that followed, the snowpack resembles Utah’s typical bounty and will provide at least a few weeks of prime conditions this spring. But the ski industry—waiting for precisely nobody—is already looking ahead and selling season passes for the 2021/22 winter. Multi-resort passes continue to dominate the landscape with more options aimed at increased flexibility, as long as customers are willing commit months in advance. In a surprise move, it’s Vail Resorts firing the opening salvo in the 2021/22 Pass Wars, announcing a 20% reduction in Epic Pass prices across the board.

Though it feels absurd to think about next season while snow is still falling during this one, perhaps skiers and snowboarders throughout Utah need something to hope for. The recently departed winter has been a dichotomous affair. People flocked to the hills as a COVID-safe escape from the doldrums of pandemic life, but common-sense restrictions at resorts led to operations difficulties across the state. Cottonwood Canyon traffic, already a pernicious problem, became untenable as carpooling morphed into a terrifying prospect. Socially-distanced chairlift rides created enormous lift lines at base areas in places like Park City Mountain even if the upper mountain was deserted. Parking was a nightmare. Lodges were off limits. Yes, the powder was still powdery and the turns cathartic as always, but I suppose we could turn the page on this past winter without dissent.

So, what’s on tap for 2021/22? For better or worse, ski pass consolidation has become the norm. The big two are still the Epic (Park City Mountain and about a million out-of-state resorts) and Ikon (Solitude, with some days at Deer Valley, Alta/Snowbird and a host of non-Utah hills) Passes, with the Mountain Collective offering two days at many resorts both in state (Alta/Snowbird) and out. The big news is the aforementioned 20% price reduction on Epic Passes. A full, no blackout date Epic Pass is now $783 (down from $979), and an Epic Local Pass, which cuts out some peak season holiday dates, is now $583 (down from $729). The Epic Day Pass lets people ski up to seven individual days for as little as $67 per day, which is no small thing now that day pass prices regularly cross the aneurysm-inducing $200 threshold. Vail Resorts is also getting rid of their maddening reservation system and recently extended the season at Park City Mountain through April 11, signaling they’d like to make amends after a difficult season.

Ikon Pass prices are holding steady from last season—$999 for a full Ikon, $729 for an Ikon Base, both with discounts for renewals—as are Mountain Collective prices at $499. Yes, ski pass consolidation tends to increase crowds and has had an undeniable numbing effect on the once eccentric culture at some ski resorts, but it’s also made skiing more affordable—if one doesn’t venture into the lodge for a $30 burger. The caveat is people need to buy early to lock in the best price.

The ski pass war of 2021/22 is just getting started. More announcements are sure to trickle out in the coming weeks, and we’ll be there to help readers decide which pass is the best fit.


Read more outdoor coverage here.  

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After a Hard Winter, Honey Bees Are Back

By Adventures, Outdoors

Symbolic odes to the honey bee are all over Utah. It’s on the state flag. Honey bees are the State Insect. It’s even in “Deseret,” a heavily saturated word that means “honey bee,” according to the doctrine of the state’s dominant religion, the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. Utah beekeeping associations are thousands of members strong. Utah’s obsessed with the honey bee. 

Meanwhile, Utah suffered greater honey beehive losses in winter than any other state, according to the latest data (winter 2019–2020). Looking at the big picture, beekeepers across the United States lost 43.7% of their honey bee colonies from April 2019 to April 2020, according to surveys by the non-profit Bee Informed Partnership (BIP). This is the second-highest loss since the survey began in 2006. With losses up, and fewer productive hives, honey production was down in 2020. Oh also, a new report by the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) found honey production dropped 6% in 2020 from 2019. 

Deseret Hive Supply sells flavored honey and honey-based products

“Our winters are not consistent—some have no snow, some see a ton of moisture—and that can make it hard to prepare,” said beekeeper Kyla Bachman, who helps run the family business Deseret Hive Supply in Ogden. “So Utah colony loss isn’t necessarily due to mites or poor management or anything like that. It can be due to the moisture and food availability and fluctuating winters.”

Utah beekeepers might also be reporting more than any other states, adds Kyla’s father-in-law Vic. “It might look somewhat artificially high compared to other states because every registered beekeeper here is really good about reporting,” he says. He started beekeeping before it was cool—popularized by various “save the bees” campaigns. (He flipped the messaging for his beekeeping supply store with the motto “save the humans.”)

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Honey bee hive at Deseret Hive Supply, Ogden

Winter isn’t the only threat wiping out honey bee colonies. Beekeepers dread the varroa mite. “It’s actually the biggest threat that honey bees have ever had,” says Vic. “It’s what basically caused colony collapse disorder. [Varorra mites] appeared in about 2006 and started wiping out colonies worldwide.” 

2019–2020 also saw the highest summer losses ever reported by the BIP survey, and the varroa mite is likely a big part of what’s driving that summertime colony loss.

“Basically, the varroa mite is to a honey bee what a tick is to us. It gets underneath their glands and eats the fat of the stomach of the honey bees,” says Kyla. The Bachmans keep a varroa mite model in their Ogden shop. The mites look like tiny red spots on the body of an otherwise healthy-looking honey bee. The varroa mite also spreads diseases and weakens the honey bee’s immune system. 

Luckily, honey bees can bounce back even after heavy losses, as long as the keeper is left with one strong, healthy hive. “We can rebuild and build back up by splitting,” says Kyla. To split a hive, keepers take a portion of  bees from one hive and put them in a new hive with a new queen bee. “We split one hive into two then three, and they propagate pretty quickly.”

In an effort to bolster local bee populations, the Utah State Legislature recently passed a bill that creates a three-year pollinator pilot program to support public education and outreach and fund the propagation of pollinator-friendly native plants.

Local honey bee populations also got a boost from the pandemic. “People were at home, didn’t have things to do, and they want to be self-sufficient,” says Vic. “And hobbyists help (the bee population) because they usually keep them in the backyard. They’re not shipping them all over the country to pollinate them.”  Commercial beekeepers often ship colonies out of state to pollinate crops elsewhere. 

In addition to licensed professional and commercial beekeepers, Vic says Utah is home to roughly 800 registered beekeeping hobbyists. 

You Too Can Keep the Bees

Kyla started keeping her own honey bee hives six years ago. She started by taking the beekeeping classes Vic and his wife Anessa offer at their store. The introductory class breaks down all of the knowledge and supplies you’ll need to become a fledgling beekeeper. They also offer classes on managing the hives during winter and on harvesting honey—which is the goal, right? 

Assortment of beekeeping hive boxes at Deseret Hive Supply
Assortment of hive boxes at Deseret Hive Supply

That year, the store had an extra package leftover and gave it to Kyla. A package contains a few pounds of bees—about 10,000 of them—and a single mated queen bee. Those bees are then installed in a hive. Beginning beekeepers can get started with a single nucleus hive—a cardboard box with five frames inside that can be transferred to a permanent hive. There are also other ways of getting your first hive… 

Kyla says she started small, but her operation didn’t stay that way for long. “I had one hive, and then we got a call from this house that was for sale, and they needed the bees removed from the house.” Kyla cut out the hive that had integrated into the home’s balcony and removed it, and it became her second hive. 

That method isn’t recommended for beginners. “Cutouts are pretty difficult,” says Vic, who’s had to cut out hives as long as 12 feet. “We’ve had people cut through powerlines, water lines; when you’re cutting into people’s houses, you need to know what you’re doing.”

After those first two hives, Kyla couldn’t stop. This past year, she was up to 25 hives. “It’s addictive,” she says.

While some hobbyists have up to 100 hives, it’s not for everyone. 

“You got to figure out whether it’s a hobby or it’s a job, you know?” says Vic. “So, I tell people to start out with a couple of hives. Don’t get to the point where it’s too busy and you don’t enjoy it anymore. Some people can handle five. Some people can handle two. Some can handle 20 or 30.” 

A hobby is exactly how it started for Vic, as well. “I bought a couple of hives. I had no clue how to be a beekeeper. I just bought them, and I just basically fell in love with bees. I mean, they’re just amazing.” 

But even in the Beehive State, he says there are still a lot of misconceptions people have about honey bees. One common misunderstanding is the idea that taking honey from the hive hurts the bees. “If you’re a good beekeeper, your hives should have an excess amount of honey,” says Kyla. A medium-sized hive could have more than 100 pounds of extra honey come October when keepers “put their bees to bed” for winter, leaving the bees plenty to eat until spring. 

While people outside the beekeeping world worry about stings, Kyla considers beekeeping a safe enough hobby to introduce to her 4-year-old daughter. “She has a full beekeeping suit,” says Kyla. “She helps me hold the frames and helps me find the queens. She enjoys it. She’ll last about 20 minutes before she gets distracted.” (Pretty good for a 4-year-old.) 

4-year-old girl takes up beekeeping at Deseret Hive Supply
Beekeeping 4-year-old helps with mom’s Honey bee hives
(Photo courtesy: Kyla Bachman, Deseret Hive Supply)

“We have a lot of young beekeepers,” says Vic. The youngest person to get started with their classes and their own hive was just 7 years old. 

For aspiring beekeepers, now is the time to get started. “The bees arrive in April,” says Vic. “Just in time to take a few classes first.” But, be careful, it could become more than a hobby. “They’re easy to fall in love with.” 

Deseret Hive Supply
1516 Washington Blvd., Ogden
deserethivesupply.com
801-866-3245


Want more bees? Read Salt Lake magazine’s story about beekeeping at the University of Utah. While you’re here, take a look at the latest print issue of Salt Lake magazine.

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Catch a Snowy Wave: Powsurfing in Utah

By Adventures, Outdoors

The rapid-fire reverb of surf rock is blaring through the Utah mountains. No, not literally. That’s just the wind. But ya know, in spirit, man. Utahns are starting to ride the powsurfing wave.

“Powsurfing? You mean like snowboarding?” you’re probably asking. Not quite. The nascent movement is the winterized extension of surf and skateboard culture. Unlike on a traditional snowboard, powsurfs eschew any sort of binding, forcing the rider to use balance and nuanced movements to make turns. While powsurfing is a bit more difficult than snowboarding to pick up for people who aren’t avid skateboarders and surfers, it requires less specialized gear. Thus, powsurfing is more affordable and accessible than traditional snow sports, especially when considering the fact it’s done outside of resorts, no lift ticket needed.

Motivated by overcrowded resorts and COVID-induced skier caps and reservation systems, Utahns are seeking a new way to ride the mountains this winter. The surge in backcountry skiing and snowboarding can be seen in the packed trailheads, gear shortages and an unprecedented demand for avalanche education courses. But historically dangerous avalanche conditions this year have highlighted the difficulty and dangers rushing into backcountry without proper preparation.

Enter powsurfing in Utah. The technical challenge of riding without bindings serves to enhance terrain, allowing riders to find fun and challenge without exposing themselves to avalanche terrain—typically understood as slopes which are over 30 degrees in steepness or which are underneath or adjacent to such slopes. The 100-foot hill in your backyard and the rolling terrain in the woods are perfect places for most people to go powsurfing. Think of all the places you’d take your kids sledding. They’re ideal for powsurfing. In fact, parents, go powsurfing when you take your kids sledding!

Powsurfing combines the aesthetics of snowboarding with the agenda-free simplicity and fun of sledding and playing in the snow. Anyone and everyone who enjoys riding on snow can give it a shot.

The sport’s roots can be traced back right here in Utah. That shouldn’t come as a surprise. Powsurfing is best done on soft snow, and what other place has reliably softer snow than the Beehive State? Grassroots Powdersurfing is the brainchild of Utah native Jeremey Jensen, who along with some friends started experimenting with binding-free snowboarding in the late 1990s.

“I grew up loving to surf, skate and snowboard. Powsurfing was a way to blend all the things I love, doing. There’s really no better place to do it” Jensen says. ”

Over time Jensen and crew created an entire line of powsurf shapes designed to excel in a variety of terrain and snow conditions, ultimately selling them under the Grassroots name. Now the industry leader, Grassroots is sticking to its roots continuing to operate from the same place it was born in built in Logan.

Jenson and the Grassroots team push the limits of what’s possible in powsurfing. They regularly shred terrain with speed and style that most people would find challenging on skis or a snowboard, as documented in their YouTube series “The Powsurf Chronicles.” Do note they frequently ride in avalanche terrain, and as Jensen is quick to remind, people should only ride in avalanche terrain if they have the appropriate education and safety gear.

You don’t have to aim for greatness like the Grassroots team to have fun. Take it from this 36-year-old lifelong skier, linking a few turns together down a mellow pow slope is plenty rewarding and fun. “Powsurfing familiar terrain fresh and new. Obviously it’s similar to snowboarding, but it requires more focus. And almost half our customers are skiers. They love getting out of their plastic boots,” Jensen says.

Powsurfs aren’t exactly cheap—they start at $420—but since all you need is a board and a leash like you’d find use on a surfboard the barrier to entry isn’t terribly high. Additional specialized gear is available, but a pair of winter boots, a ski or snowboard jacket and pants, and the willingness to walk up a hill is all you need to get started.

For beginners, Jenson recommends look for a powsurf like the Slasher 140. The three-dimensional base profile and surf-inspired shape make it agile and forgiving in variety of snow conditions and terrain. When you’re ready to give it a try, you can pick up a Grassroots Powsurf on their website. When you’re ready to get back to the roots of riding snow—simplicity and just plain having fun—take a powsurf to snow covered hill near you. We have plenty of those in Utah.

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In Utah, 2021 Has Become the Year of the Avalanche

By Adventures, Outdoors

To most skiers and snowboarders, avalanches are a seemingly detached threat. They’re something either punctuating dramatic moments in films like Aspen Extreme or periodically popping up in the headlines from far flung locations. But lately, they’ve become an inescapable part of reality in the wake of a rash of accidents and an historic avalanche cycle in the Wasatch Mountains. The Utah Avalanche Center has even taking a central role in helping the New York Times cover the topic of avalanches and backcountry skiing. Avalanches have always been part of life and a present threat in Utah, and a perfect storm of circumstances has made them the center of conversation in 2021.

The tragic foundation of the surge in avalanche coverage is the spate of fatal avalanche accidents in recent weeks. Six avalanche fatalities occurred in the Central Wasatch over the course of a month, including two separate accidents along the Park City Ridgeline and a slide which killed four skiers in Millcreek Canyon. Nationwide, 15 people were killed during the first week of February, making it one of the deadliest weeks for backcountry users on record. Suddenly, avalanches became the focus of mainstream media coverage, and my phone started blowing up with text messages from people who’d never before used the term avalanche asking what was going on.

The “Black Rose” forecast form the Utah Avalanche Center indicating Extreme danger on all aspects and elevations on February 17, 2021.

What’s going on is Utah’s currently plagued by a nearly unprecedented unstable snowpack. A dearth of snow early in the season with long periods of dry weather left deeply embedded layers of weak snow throughout the Utah mountains. Typically, early season snowpack instability begins to heal as snow accumulates throughout the winter, but this season’s uniquely unstable weak layers have been overloaded by sudden copious snowfall, overloading the slopes and leading to frequent, dangerously large avalanches. On Feb. 17, the Utah Avalanche Center forecast “Extreme” avalanche danger on all aspects and elevations, meaning avalanches were a certainty.

A near constant string of natural and human triggered avalanches has been occurring throughout the Wasatch, and Little Cottonwood Canyon has been closed since Monday night with people in the canyon subject to interlodge restrictions inside buildings. Massive storm totals over the past week wrought historic avalanches, bringing debris piles across the S.R. 210 on numerous slide paths, impacting buildings and covering parking lots at Snowbird and Alta. Huge slides were visible across the Park City Ridgeline, and roadside slopes in Big Cottonwood were releasing dangerous avalanches. The mountains are coming unglued in a way not seen in the past 30 years.

A large avalanche visible on the Park City Ridgeline. Photo courtesy of Weston Deutschlander.

The uniquely unstable snowpack colliding with human factors is what has made 2021 the season of the avalanche. A surge in the popularity of backcountry skiing and snowboarding fueled in part by the pandemic making resorts less accessible has led to record numbers of backcountry travelers. Some inexperienced or unprepared backcountry users have been the victims of accidents, while other incidents have involved experienced users. Atypically sensitive avalanche conditions and increased pressure to avoid crowds are both likely contributing factors to the high number of accidents and close calls in Utah this year.

Ski resorts are wrestling with the combination of factors. Some resorts like Snowbird have been overwhelmed by new snow and widespread avalanche hazard, and have been unable to open for the past few days. Ski patrols are working furiously to mitigate danger and get the lifts spinning, but there’s only so much they can do in the midst of a relentless storm and avalanche cycle. Park City Mountain reversed course on decades of practice and indefinitely closed backcountry access from the resort. The resort has still not revealed how they plan to control access to the public lands beyond their boundaries, which have been the site of nine fatalities since 2000. Longtime backcountry skiers who have accessed National Forest land via the resort’s lifts generally advocate for some filter to help prevent unprepared or uneducated skiers from inadvertently accessing potentially dangerous terrain, but the community is anxious for resolution.

Utah’s finally getting blanketed in the snow it’s famous for, but the 2020-21 winter season has become dominated by avalanches, both literally and in the minds of skiers and snowboarders. Nary a chairlift ride goes by without someone broaching the subject, regardless of where they hail from. Anyone accessing the backcountry should have the proper tools and education, and those looking for a place to get started should visit the Utah Avalanche Center’s website. Enjoy the powder, but stay safe while doing so.

Read more outdoor coverage here.

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Floating in John W. Powell’s Wake

By Adventures, City Watch, Outdoors

In the 1800s, humans were busy scurrying across the globe prying into the blank spots on the map, why? Because, of course, they were there. From the frozen poles of the Earth to its darkest jungles, we had a guy on it. Here in the United States, the transcontinental railroad had opened up the nation. But, despite nearly a century of poking around by native peoples, Spanish padres, men military, mountain and Mormon, there remained one big question mark over the terrain through which flowed the Green and the Colorado Rivers.

On then-existing maps of the area between Green River Wyoming and St. Thomas, Nevada, there might as well have been a label, in all-caps, bolded, italicized, underlined and with exclamation points: “DO NOT GO!!!!!” No one, at least no one who lived to tell the tale, had ever navigated these rivers. Why? Because it was a really dangerously dumb idea. Still, it was there. So. We put a guy on it. A one-armed Civil War veteran by the name of Major John W. Powell who said (not really) whatever was the 19th Century equivalent of “Hey, man hold my beer, while I try this” and set off to see just exactly what was there. The answer? Hell.

UNTANGLING THE LEGEND OF JOHN W. POWELL

On a sunny day last October, our captain, Kent Tschanz, pulled on the oars to scoot us down the flat water of the Green River’s Labyrinth Canyon section. Tschanz is a dealer in rare books and collectibles. He put together the trip to help out historian Richard Turley who is working to float all the major sections of the Green and Colorado Rivers to research a series of books on Powell. This particular section, although stunningly scenic, isn’t as popular as others on both rivers that feature more thrilling (and dangerous) sections of whitewater, so it’s harder to hitch a ride. Tschanz volunteered his raft, along with his Rain-Man-level knowledge of western history and we set off to explore the Labyrinth together on what promised to be a very PBS/Ken Burns-ey trip. After a few hours of small talk I finally just asked Turley, “So Powell was just nuts right?”

John W. Powell
Major John W. Powell; Courtesy Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division

“No.” Turley chuckled. “He was supposed to be a minister.” Turley is a now-retired historian for the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints who, among many accomplishments, wrote a well-respected tome on the Mountain Meadows Massacre (Massacre at Mountain Meadows: An American Tragedy, with Ronald W. Walker and Glen M. Leonard.) Powell crossed paths with many of the notable (or notorious) figures prominent in that dark chapter in the history of the Mormons’ Utah.

“When I was working on the Mountain Meadows research, Powell kept showing up,” Turley said. “Brigham Young had written to his people in the Southern half of the state and told them to watch for debris from his first expedition.”

The son of an itinerant preacher from Shrewsbury England, who pressed him to become a minister, Powell eschewed the family business and became fascinated with geology, fossils and the natural sciences. As a young man, he restlessly explored the rivers and lands of the midwest. When the Civil War broke out, his experience earned him a commission in the Union Army as a cartographer, topographer and military engineer. At the Battle of Shiloh, commanding an artillery battery, Powell raised his right arm to give the order to fire and a Minie ball blew it to shreds. After the war, Powell’s fascination with the natural sciences became a passion that led him to a job as a curator at the Museum of the Illinois State Natural History Society. The post would allow him to do what he really wanted to do—meaningful science in the field. The field lay West.

Powell’s cameos in Utah history piqued Turley’s interest and, while plenty of ink has been spilled about Powell’s three (three!) expeditions through the Grand Canyon, including Powell’s own account, Turley took the bait and set out to write what he hopes will be a clarifying and enlightening set of books on Powell’s adventures. In 1875, Powell published a hefty tome, with a hefty title, Report of the Exploration of the Colorado River of the West and Its Tributaries. The book became the Urtext of the rivers’ exploration, but Turley is a man who jots his tittles and crosses his jots. “That book is the basis for so much of what has been written about Powell,” he said. “The problem with it is that Powell weaves all three trips together as if it was a single trip and it was his personal journal.”

One of Powell’s men sits at the Gates of Lodore. Courtesy Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division

Powell mashed-up the experiences primarily because he needed to make a splash for the United States Congress, his backers. He was constantly raising funds for his research and expeditions. But Turley believes that each expedition “is an adventure in itself” and deserves to be accurately conveyed.

“You have two sets of historians in Powell’s case, the academics and the river runners,” he told me. “Academics have largely relied on Powell’s book but you have these amateur historians but experienced river runners who have been there, seen what Powell says he saw and go, ‘yeah that doesn’t add up.’”

Although there is no possible way to actually re-create Powell’s trip—primarily because Powell and his men were running a wild river, there were no dams at Flaming Gorge and Lakes Powell and Mead—Turley has set himself to floating as many sections as he can and approximating what Powell and his men saw with his historian’s eyes.

THE GREAT SUCK

Powell’s first trip starting in 1869 was essentially a failure except for the fact that the Major and just two of the nine men he set out with actually survived. Powell was an experienced river pilot, but his experience was on the wide, flat rivers of the East. Basically, he had no idea what he was in for.

“There was a myth that somewhere along the river was something called ‘The Great Suck,’ a giant waterfall that descended into the depths of the Earth,” Turley said. “Powell was accustomed to running rivers over long stretches but he had no experience with whitewater.”

The Major outfitted himself with Whitehall boats, large wooden craft with flat bottoms, more suited for the Mississippi than the Green and Colorado. They carried a massive amount of supplies, including scientific equipment that Powell doggedly employed as his men eyed the dwindling supplies and long unknown ahead and grumbled.

“Powell knew enough about geology and the altitudes to estimate the drop in the river systems and thought with all of that descent, the river would not be as violent as the myths had suggested,” Turley said. “He prepared four boats and sat in a chair attached to one of the decks. He would look forward while his oarsman faced back.”

One of Powell’s Whitehall boats during his expedition. The heavy wooden boats were ill-suited for the adventure. Courtesy Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division

Lashed to the mast, as it were, Powell had to make calls at each rapid. They would either carry the heavy boats around in massive steep portages or send a rope down to follow through the unknown. One man left early on, one boat was lost at a place the expedition chillingly named “Disaster Falls.”

“And there was one disaster after another,” Turley said. “They realized they were going to run out of food, they were losing supplies and equipment, three men abandon him at Separation Point attempting to hike out to find a settlement. They were never heard from again. But he became a hero for just surviving—it was a Neil Armstrong kind of accomplishment. That reputation was helpful to raise money to return for his real goal, science.”

For the first trip, Powell had assembled a motley crew of mountain men and wanderers, trappers and hunters lured by the idea of discovering minerals and fresh fur sources as well as ample game along the way. That, as we say, did not pan out. The hunting was poor and prospecting was put on the back burner to merely surviving. So on his second and third expeditions, Powell returned with a more rounded-out crew, science and military men. He worked with the Mormons to arrange food drops along the route and although the latter expeditions were no less harrowing, Powell’s planning allowed him to accomplish his scientific goals.

John W. Powell
John Wesley Powell at Green River, Wyo. where he and his men prepare to disembark for their exploration of the Green and Colorado Rivers and The Grand Canyon. Courtesy Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division

FLOATING IN JOHN W. POWELL’S WAKE

The October trip through Labyrinth Canyon was blessedly uneventful and a far cry from what Powell experienced. Powell and his men raced through that section with an eye on supplies and worry about what awaited them in the Grand Canyon. We enjoyed a much more leisurely pace.

Men at first camp on the Green River in Green River, Wyo. Courtesy Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division

“Today we have great equipment,” Turley said. “We have communication with people on the outside and ways of getting help. Past a certain point, Powell and his men had no way of getting help, no way of reprovisioning. There was very little game. They were repeatedly soaked, the boats were swamped or capsized. By the end they were taking out their sodden flour and straining it through cheesecloth, eating rancid apples and shreds of bacon. But these weren’t 21st Century men. They were accustomed to this idea of army discipline or mountain man discipline and somehow they got on. They were brave, no question but they were doing something that anyone today would think was foolhardy.” So, basically, Powell was nuts. 

GREAT RIVER READS

We asked Richard Turley to recommend his favorite books about the Green and Colorado and Powell’s expeditions on the rivers. All are available, along with many more, at Ken Sanders Rare Books, 268 S. 200 E, SLC, 801- 521-3819

Best exciting read about modern-day river running along Powell’s route Kevin Fedarko, The Emerald Mile: The Epic Story of the Fastest Ride in History Through the Heart of the Grand Canyon (New York: Scribner, 2013). Best hardcore history to help unravel what really happened on Powell’s first trip Michael P. Ghiglieri, First Through Grand Canyon: The Secret Journals and Letters of the 1869 Crew Who Explored the Green and Colorado Rivers (Flagstaff: Puma Press, 2003). Best new book on Powell’s first trip Don Lago, The Powell Expedition: New Discoveries About John Wesley Powell’s 1869 River Journey (Reno: University of Nevada Press, 2018). Best book on Powell’s route on the upper Green River Roy Webb, Lost Canyons of the Green River: The Story Before Flaming Gorge Dam (Salt Lake City: University of Utah Press, 2012). Best book on the photographs taken during Powell’s second and third trips Hal G. Stephens and Eugene M. Showmaker, In the Footsteps of John Wesley Powell: An Album of Comparative Photographs of the Green and Colorado Rivers, 1871-72 and 1968 (Boulder, CO: Johnson Books; Denver, CO: The Powell Society, 1987).

The Crew

THE CAPTAIN: Kent Tschanz is the co-owner of Tschanz Rare Books with his wife Katie. Kent has been active in the book trade since the late 1990s starting out at Sam Weller’s Books (where he met Katie) and then at Ken Sanders Rare Books.

THE GUIDE: Richard Turley is a historian and author. He worked from 2008 to 2016 as a historian for the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, retiring in 2020 from the LDS Church’s communications department. He is researching a series of books about John W. Powell’s expeditions.

THE PASSENGER: Jeremy Pugh is the Editor of Salt Lake magazine, sporting sunnies from Rheos that he’d hoped would reflect the grandeur. He is also the author of 100 Things to Do in SLC (Before You Die) and the forthcoming guide book Secret Salt Lake (Spring 2021, Reedy Press). He will generally say yes to anyone offering a river trip. verydynamite.com


READ MORE by Richard TurleyWagons West: Brigham Young and the First Pioneers. Salt Lake City, Deseret Book, 2016, with Lael Littke. Massacre at Mountain Meadows: An American Tragedy. New York: Oxford University Press, 2008. With Ronald W. Walker and Glen M. Leonard. Victims: The LDS Church and the Mark Hofmann Case. Urbana: University of Illinois Press, 1992.

Historian Richard Turley on the Green River.

Read more adventures here.

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Utah’s National Monuments Back in Spotlight as Biden Administration Takes Action on Day 1

By Adventures, Outdoors

Just hours after being sworn in, President Joe Biden signed an executive order calling for a review of the boundaries for Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante national monuments. The monuments—designated by Barack Obama in 2016 and Bill Clinton in 1996—were reduced by roughly 2 million acres by former president Donald Trump, and the executive order is seen as move towards restoring the original boundaries.

Fierce debate surrounding Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante is now standard fare in Utah. The monuments were created using authority granted by the 1906 Antiquities Act, allowing presidents to unilaterally designate monuments on public land. Trumps decision to remove lands from national monument protection under the same authority has been challenged by numerous lawsuits brought by American Indian tribes with ancestral roots to the land as well as environmental groups.

The majority of Utah’s conservative politicians—including newly-elected governor Spencer Cox— have pushed for local control on federally managed public lands, which comprises roughly two-thirds of Utah. Opponents contend the absence of federal management will lead to increased mineral extraction and development benefitting few at the expense of the greater public, to whom public lands purportedly belong.

When debating representation in Utah’s public lands decisions, “local management” often eschews input of Native American tribes—in this case the Navajo, Ute, Ute Mountain Ute, Zuni and Hopi tribes—in the region. The Bears Ears coalition, which represents these tribes, is already pushing the Biden Administration to restore the original Obama boundaries. Their requests have been bolstered by local governments in San Juan and Grand counties, where Bears Ears is located, to restore the monument.

No good-faith legal debate exists countering Biden’s authority restore the national monuments. The Trump administration’s questionably appropriate actions were regarded by some as a political favor to Utah politicians after he sent then-Interior Secretary Ryan Zinke to investigate 25 national monuments in the American West to ensure they were “right sized,” and only the two in Utah were reduced. With three consecutive democratic administrations creating or moving to restore monuments in Utah and republican politicians at both the local and federal level trying to reduce their size, it seems as though public lands in Utah have become a political football.

As Utah’s republican leadership continues to press for local input, the Biden Administration is likely to push ahead on its own. It would be easier to take the request for local input seriously if it included the five American Indian tribes who had pushed the Obama Administration to create Bears Ears on occupied ancestral land. The future of Utah’s public lands is still unwritten, and we will continue to follow the issue as the story unfolds.

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Robert Redford Agrees to Sell Sundance Mountain Resort

By Adventures, Outdoors

More than 50 years after founding Sundance Mountain Resort, Utah’s adopted legend of the silver screen Robert Redford has agreed to sell the resort to a pair of companies, Broadreach Capital Partners and Cedar Capital Partners. Located in the shadow of Mount Timpanogos, Sundance has long maintained an independent identity amid a flurry of corporate consolidation in the ski industry. Fans of the resort’s unique atmosphere will likely feel anxiety about the changing of the guard—a duo of capital investment firms doesn’t have the quite the charm of the Sundance Kid, himself—but Redford shared assurances Sundance’s character would endure.

“Change is inevitable, and for several years, my family and I have been thinking about a transition to new ownership for the resort. We knew that at the right time, and with the right people, we could make the transition. Broadreach and Cedar share our values and interest in maintaining the resort’s unique character, while honoring its history, community and natural beauty. This makes them well-suited to ensure that future generations can continue to find solace and inspiration here,” Redford said in the resort’s press release.

Included in the announcement is news Redford and his family are establishing the Redford Family Elk Meadows Preserve. The preserve will provide permanent protection to 300 acres of wildlife habitat, streams and wetlands near Stewart Falls through a partnership with Utah Open Lands. Sundance had always positioned itself as a resort with natural beauty as its centerpiece, and the Preserve represents Redford’s attempt to secure and protect that legacy.

Broadreach and Cedar are saying all the right things as of now. “We are deeply honored to assume stewardship of this magical resort and its unique programming and are committed to maintaining the balance between responsible development and land preservation that the Redford family has passionately cultivated. We intend to thoughtfully enhance this experience and continue the Redford commitment to guests, staff, the Sundance Institute and community, and most importantly, the natural environment itself,” Philip Maritz, managing director of Broadreach Capital Partners said in a press release. With that in mind, a vague statement about balancing development and sustainability coming from a Palo Alto and New York City based real estate investment firm is unlikely to assuage fears people have about new corporate ownership of a formerly independently owned resort.

Just like the Sundance Kid says, “Change is inevitable,” but it’s still a tough pill for longtime Sundance skiers to swallow. There’s no word on how the ownership change will affect resort operations or season pass affiliation at this time, but we will update this story if that information becomes available.

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Tips for a ski vacation in the time of COVID

By Adventures, Outdoors

I’ve never been a huge fan of gondolas. Sitting in a cramped, stuffy box with an overhyped loudmouth who has seemingly no control of where his ski poles are at a given moment is unpleasant to begin with, and the thought of adding airborne particles of unknown origin to the mix amid a pandemic isn’t helping. So, I’ll be skipping gondi rides with strangers this season, but that won’t be the only unique thing about the 20/21 ski season. We’re here to help you pull off a successful ski trip even as a deadly illness rampages across the globe. I can hear you already. “Gee, thanks. But skiing doesn’t seem that important right now.” Well, dear reader, some of us have thrown our lives away in the service of this meaningless pursuit, and we’re not about to let a little thing like an unprecedented public health crisis get in our way. Like everything in 2020, an avalanche of uncertainty means we don’t know exactly what the ski season will look like, but clues from southern hemisphere resorts like Perisher point to reduced capacity, limited food and drink service and understandable fear of indoor spaces. They’ve informed these five tips for enjoying the pandemic powder and a COVID ski vacation.

TIP #1: PLAN AHEAD, BUY A SEASON PASS & AVOID PEAK TIMES “In this economy? Are you nuts?” Yes. And probably. Capacity is going to be an issue this winter. Park City Mountain implemented a Byzantine reservation system for all skiers, but even under Vail’s restrictions season pass holders will get first-right-of-refusal priority over other guests. Other resorts are enacting their own crowd-control measures for the season. Regardless of where you want to ski in the Beehive State, you’d be wise to plan as far ahead as you can, and think strongly about avoiding typically busy periods like Christmas and MLK weekend.

TIP #2: STAY SOMEWHERE WITH A KITCHEN  “Haven’t VRBO and Airbnb destroyed the housing and lodging structure of ski towns?” Yes, they have, but now that a pandemic has turned indoor dining spaces into terrifying enclosures of airborne infection, having a full-sized kitchen is wonderful. Sure, takeout can be great, but being able to quickly whip up some breakfast before heading to the mountains can save a lot of stress and money.

TIP #3: HAVE RENTAL EQUIPMENT DELIVERED TO YOU  “Mustn’t one endure the indignities of aloof, inattentive service for overpriced, mid-quality, rental equipment?” Thankfully no, as the rental world is evolving. Companies like Ski Butlers and Black Tie Skis will conduct fittings and deliver skis, snowboards and boots directly to your hotel room, condo or vacation rental. They even offer a slopeside delivery service for those who are really serious about keeping their lodging hermetically sealed. The more crowded indoor spaces you can avoid the better. skibutlers.com, blacktieskis.com

TIP #4: SKIP THE LODGE WITH POCKET SNACKS “Won’t I miss the indulgent feeling of paying $26 for a burger without fries?” Probably not. Ski lodge food has taken the express line to boujie town in recent years, and resorts have sternly discouraged skiers from brown bagging lunch in their buildings. This is our chance to reclaim the ski lodge lunch for the proletariat in the name of public health. Everyone already knows PB & J sandwiches are better once the bread is smashed nice and thin. Pocket bacon wrapped in tin foil is an excellent pick-me-up to get through a powder day. Best of all, monogrammed flasks will be making a comeback for jump-starting your après session. We’re here to feed ourselves, not the bloated corporate overlords who have taken over skiing.

TIP #5: TRY BACKCOUNTRY SKIING WITH A GUIDE “Are the lift lines going to be longer or shorter?” Yes. I honestly don’t know which though. Take lift lines out of the equation altogether by heading into the backcountry. Doing so on your own would be daunting and dangerous, but going with a guide service can be safe, fun and inspiring. Many guide services throughout Utah lead human-powered backcountry tours, where you’ll breathe fresh mountain air far from the possibly-contagious masses. It’s difficult getting to the top under your own power, but well worth the effort. The powder is far better beyond the resort boundaries.

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