The breeze flowing through my helmet vents reminds me that not everything was bad during those decidedly not-halcyon days of pandemic past. Many things, of course, were indeed quite awful, but not the reclaimed sense of freedom. Amid a perpetual cycle of takeout meals, questionable hygiene and missing puzzle pieces in isolation, the sense of wonder I found while rolling outside on two wheels was remarkable. I wasn’t alone.
Perhaps not since Karl Von Drais created the “velocipede” or “hobby horse” in 1817 has the bicycle seen such enthusiasm. Cycling’s bumper year was evident everywhere from barren bike shop shelves devoid of inventory to packed trailheads to the countless bike racks adorning every Outback and Tacoma in sight. Already a hotbed of bike activity, Utah is riding the cycling wave this summer, greeting riders with open roads and twisting ribbons of dirt. Saddle up.
Rubber Meets the Road
Antelope Island: The ride’s so scenic it’s been used as a frequent venue for the Tour of Utah; Photo by Jonathan Devich/epicimages.us
A lot of us grabbed those new bikes and tore around the streets exploring our neighborhoods like those kids in Stranger Things. It was great fun getting to know every nook, cranny and crack on the pavement, but it’s time to cover some miles through Utah’s dramatic landscapes with a few of our favorite road rides. No matter the fitness level or preferred geologic venue, there’s something for everyone.
Start with a classic ride on Antelope Island near SLC. Ditch the car at Centennial Park in Syracuse and ride across the causeway to the state park. The 47-mile out-and-back features a consistently flat grade and impeccable pavement quality, from which riders can enjoy gorgeous views of the Great Salt Lake and wildlife sightings of bison, pronghorn antelope and bighorn sheep.
As the weather heats up during the dog days, head northeast to Flaming Gorge for some cooler temps at higher elevations. This 68-mile out-and-back ride starts at another Centennial Park, this one in the tiny town of Manila on 200 West. Head South on S.R. 44 through stunning scenery in the Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area before connecting to U.S. 191 at mile 28 and the Flaming Gorge Dam at mile 34. Reverse the route and finish with a beverage at Flaming Gorge Brewing Company. You’ll have earned it.
For a short, sweet and scenic southern cruise, roll up to Capitol Reef National Park. From the Visitor Center, cyclists can enter the park for just $3 and ride along the eight-mile Scenic Drive through the park. Cool off in the shade in Fruita, the historic community founded by Mormon settlers in the 1800s and stand in awe of unique 240-million-year-old Moenkopi rock formations. At just 16 total miles, this out-and-back ride is short enough to be done early in the morning or late in the evening when temperatures are (relatively) cooler.
Catch a Lift
Deer Valley; Courtesy Deer Valley
Enough with the leg-churning, calorie-burning road rides already. Across Utah, a ski-like culture of list-assisted, gravity-fueled mountain biking has taken hold. Gravity cycling is deeply rooted in history here, from the elite NORBA National downhill races at Deer Valley to the pioneering Red Bull Rampage competition near Virgin, but now you don’t need to be a pro-level daredevil to enjoy it.
Resorts throughout the state are spinning lifts like it’s January in July, some with standout bike parks offering expert-level downhill tracks and beginner-friendly flow trails. Deer Valley (2250 Deer Valley Dr., Park City, 435-649-1000) has the famed rough racecourses of yore like NCS along with smooth, berm-filled trails like Holy Roller. Woodward Park City (Woodward Park City: 3863 Kilby Rd., Park City, 435-658-2648) has trails and features ranging from entertainingly benign on Easy Rider to legitimately gargantuan on Spiral Jetty. Both resorts have progression-friendly instruction available as well. Lift access starts at about $60 for a full day.
If chasing a bucket-list mountain bike experience, consider a helicopter bump to the high country with Whisper Ridge (4776 E. 2600 North, Eden, 801-876-4664). Starting at $200 per person, riders are whisked in a whirlybird over 3,000 vertical feet to the top of Whisper Ridge’s private mountain bike trails. With so few people accessing the terrain, riders can expect pristine conditions with tacky dirt devoid of blown-out corners and braking bumps. The helicopter ride alone is worth the price of admission. Shredding high-mountain terrain above Eden with the only heli-bike operation in the lower 48 is the icing on the cake.
Local Rigs for Local Rides
Whether you’re auditioning for a spot in next year’s Tour of Utah or are an aspiring gravity fiend, Lindon-based bike company Fezzari(520 N. Geneva Rd., Lindon, 801-471-0440,) has your next ride. A direct-to consumer online sales model means big savings on your end, while 23-point custom setup ensures a dialed fit out of the box.
Mile Muncher
Empire
Named for the epic road ride up Empire Canyon, the Empire is a blazing fast road bike that’s tuned for comfort mile after mile. Starting at $1,800.
Rowdy Rig
La Sal Peak
With 150 mm of real travel, a 170-mm fork, 29-inch wheels and progressive geometry, the La Sal Peak has your back on the fastest, roughest descents you can find. Starting at $3,600.
Utah local Nathaniel Coleman won the silver medal in the sport climbing combined event at the Tokyo Olympics. The Murray High School graduate won the bouldering portion of the competition, a result which when combined with a fifth in lead climbing and a sixth in speed climbing—while earning a personal best time—was enough to push him into second overall. Coleman excelled against some incredible athletes such as Adam Ondra of the Czech Republic, who is often regarded as the greatest male climber in history.
The 24-year-old Coleman is no stranger to climbing success. He won three straight USA Climbing National Championships in bouldering in addition to notching a first ascent on one of the hardest boulder problems on earth, The Grand Illusion, a V16 in Little Cottonwood Canyon. Still, there is no public stage quite like the Olympics, and Coleman thrived under the pressure.
The sport climbing combined event features three different disciplines, each of which rewards climbers for excelling at a distinct aspect of the sport. The speed climbing portion tests explosiveness as climbers ascend a relatively easy—for them, anyhow—climbing route. The bouldering competition is the ultimate test of strength and power on an exceedingly difficult yet short route without using a rope. The lead climbing discipline rewards climbers who have a strong mixture of power and endurance as they ascend a challenging, longer route while using a rope for protection. The combination of skills required over the competition rewards a well-rounded climber, and nobody other than 18-year-old Alberto Ginés López of Spain was able to best Coleman.
While Utahns have traditionally found success at the Winter Olympics, Coleman, along with mountain biker Haley Batten, is proving Beehive State locals can dominate on the world stage in warm weather mountain sports as well. Check out highlights of Coleman competing in Tokyo here and watch him crush Little Cottonwood granite on one of the planet’s most difficult climbs in the video below.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1d0s162f30
Check out more outdoor and sports coverage as the Olympics continue.
“The ball really does fly farther at elevation,” I thought as the tiny white sphere violently hooked from view. Golfing in the mountains comes with certain baked-in hazards, like the precipitous declivity that claimed my repurposed range ball. Best bring a couple of spares when hitting the links around here. Park City is home to some of the most outrageously expensive and exclusive golf courses in the world. Thankfully, it also has some wonderful and quirky public courses available to those of us who don’t travel on a personal private jet. We tore it up on the fairways, greens and frequently the rough to break down our favorites and even consulted with a local caddy to get an expert’s opinion.
Who It’s For: Players chipping away at their handicap, not the ball stuck in the bunker.
Highlights: Two 18-hole courses (Canyon and Lake), public driving range, challenging and dramatic features on Lake Course
Après: The Sandwedge Café (7603 E. Mt. Dell Golf Rd., SLC), located in the same building as the pro shop, has affordable sandwiches and beers.
Caddy’s Take: “It’s one of the only public courses with a driving range in the area, and it’s significantly tougher than PC Muni. There are more serious golfers working on their games there.”
Who It’s For: Players who want to infuse some mountain climbing into their golf game.
Highlights: Unique setting, 300-foot elevation change on hole 10, the tricky island green on 18
Après: Drafts Burger Bar (3000 Canyons Resort Dr., Park City) in Canyons Village has delicious monster burgers and 20 beers on tap.
Caddy’s Take: “It’s kind of an insane place to play golf because it’s very much on the side of a cliff. The massive elevation change on some holes makes for some memorable shots, though.”
Who It’s For: Players who are too busy taking in the views to keep track of tee shots.
Highlights: Two distinct 18-hole courses (Lake and Mountain), incredible scenery, cool temperatures
Après: Midway Mercantile (99 E. Main St., Midway) has an excellent patio and even better farm-to-table menu.
Caddy’s Take: “It’s hard to get too upset about shanking one into the bunker when the scenery is as good as it is underneath those massive peaks in Midway.”
The ridgeline cut a toothy silhouette across the eastern sky. The stillness in the air, a serene contrast to the dramatic peaks piercing the horizon, was undercut only by the heartbeat pounding in my chest. The Buffalo Drop loomed. On the previous lap I’d taken the cheater line around the aptly-named feature. The rock roll feels as though you’re jumping a mountain bike into a steep landing off the back of the largest bison imaginable. My ego couldn’t stomach skipping it again. It wasn’t that large. Not compared to the gargantuan Tetons I was gaping at, anyway.
After a few deep breaths while pretending the impressive vista, rather than lurking dread, was precipitating my delay, I conquered the precipice through some combination of luck and advanced engineering. The modern mountain bike is a wonderful thing, indeed. The Buffalo Drop is a notable centerpiece of Grand Targhee’s mountain bike park (3330 Ski Hill Rd., Alta, Wyo., 307-353-2300) but just one of an expanding network of trails crisscrossing down the mountain. Chunky descents with cascading rock rolls through forested slopes and ultra-smooth sweeping berms through alpine meadows can be found in equal measure. Complete beginner or seasoned expert, Targhee’s bike park has something for any rider. And everyone can enjoy the views.
Grand Targhee—technically in Wyoming but just a stone’s throw from its burgeoning mountain town base in Driggs, Idaho—is best known for the walloping winter storms that frequently deposit far more snow on its slopes than its better-known counterpart on the lee side of the range, Jackson Hole, receives. The resort, and surrounding community in Teton Valley, is fast making a name for itself as a summer destination in its own right. Hop in the car and find out for yourself. The quiet side might just be the grander side of the Tetons.
Can You Driggs It?
Teton Valley has long been something of an hidden gem in the Gem State. It’s in part due to flashier locales in and adjacent to the state, like Sun Valley and Jackson Hole, absorbing broader attention. Teton Valley is gradually transforming from an agricultural and ranching community into one built on recreational tourism. It’s part of a long evolution of the area, the ancestral lands of the Shoshone-Bannock and Northern Paiute Indian tribes, which, in typical American fashion, has a checkered history marked by calamity and reinvention. The 19th Century Rocky Mountain Rendezvous, an annual gathering organized by fur trading companies, has been replaced with the Wydaho Rendezvous, a bike festival hosted by Grand Targhee each summer. The former abandoned the area following the infamous battle of Pierre’s Hole in 1832. The latter, thankfully, is famous for the “sloshie,” a delightful frozen boozy concoction at the Trap Bar(3330 Ski Hill Rd., Alta, Wyo.). Times change, but the spirit of exploration and community has undeniably carried over on the western slope of the Tetons.
Teton Valley, near Driggs; Photo courtesy Idaho Tourism
Where to Play
Exploring Teton Valley doesn’t necessitate an adrenaline rush. As we found, those incredible mountain vistas are often best enjoyed from a serene perch while literally floating. An early-morning wake-up call is worth it for a ride with Elevated Ballooning(98 E. Little Ave., Driggs, 208-709-0777). Upon returning to earth, we opted for another type of float, this time down the Teton River. Teton River Supply(107 W. Bates Rd., Driggs, 208-534-8784) rents a variety of inflatable vessels from kayaks to stand up paddleboards to canoes starting at just $45 per day and will even arrange a complimentary shuttle from the shop in Driggs to the put-in and take-out of your choice. The snaking journey down the Teton River is languid, relaxed and perfect for soaking in those mountain views.
Eager to more intimately explore the stunning terrain of the Targhee National Forest, we headed out for a hike the following morning. For a quick family-friendly jaunt, we went to the Sheep Bridge Trail, a roughly five-mile out-and-back that follows Teton Creek. For a far more adventurous and arduous undertaking, head up to Table Mountain. On the trek you’ll have remarkable views of the Tetons as well as Mount Owen and Teewinot Mountain.
Back from the trail, it was time to wind down with some tunes. Every Thursday night through August 12, the Teton Valley Foundation hosts Music on Main at the Victor City Park(80 N. Main St., Victor). Some of the best musical acts from all over the country hit the stage from 6 p.m. until 10 p.m. Local food vendors serve up a variety of wonderful cuisine to help keep the audience’s energy high, and beer, wine and hard seltzer sales help fund the Teton Valley Foundation.
Where to Eat and Drink
A strong craft beverage culture permeates Teton Valley, so a local brewery tour is on tap. Start by renting a hybrid cruiser bike from Peaked Sports(70 E. Little Ave., Driggs, 208-354-2354) and take an eight-mile scenic ride on the rail trail to Victor for a pint at Grand Teton Brewing(430 Old Jackson Hwy., Victor, 888-899-1656) and then Wildlife Brewing Company(145 S Main St., Victor, 208-787-2623). For something a little different, stop in at Highpoint Cider(7565 Lupine Ln., Victor, 307-264-2151) before heading back down the path to Driggs for a nightcap and some appetizers at Citizen 33 Brewery(364 N. Main St., Driggs, 208-354-207).
A liquid diet won’t cut it when you’re in the mountains all day, and there’s some incredible food options throughout Teton Valley. Start your day with a gourmet doughnut from Yeti’s Post(98 E. Little Ave., Driggs, 208-354-1444) or a breakfast sandwich from Victor Valley Market(5 S. Main St., Victor, 208-787-2230), where you can win a massive cookie if you correctly answer the day’s trivia question. For a midday refuel, check out Big Hole BBQ(22 W. Center St., Victor, 208-270-9919) for brisket and smoked wings or to Captain Ron’s Smokehouse(415 Main St., Driggs, 307-690-1298) for a burger with pimento cheese and bacon.
Wrap things up in the evening with a Neapolitan-style pie from Tatanka Tavern(18 N. Main St., Driggs, 208-227-8744). The Fungus Amongus with garlic oil and roasted mushrooms is a delight. For something a bit spicier, stop in at the legendary Teton Thai(18 N., Main St., Driggs, 208-787-8424) for authentic Thai cuisine—the Gang Karee Beef Curry is a favorite—and a local beverage from the in-house brewery. Try the Money Penny British Pale Ale.
Where to Stay
Glamping right at the base of Teton Pass at Moose Creek Ranch(2733 E. 10800 South, Victor, 208-510-0216) really fits the vibe of Teton Valley better than a luxury hotel. Deluxe tents, cabins and even customized airstreams make for a variety of glamping options depending on how rustic you want to get. Rates start at $129 per night.
Located on the bank of the Teton River, Teton Valley Lodge (3733 Adams Rd., Driggs, 208-354-2386) is an all-inclusive fishing resort in the heart of Teton Valley with 25 fishable sections of river and excellent guides—not to mention charming—private one, two and three-bedroom cabins and great food. A variety of all-inclusive packages and separate day-trip activities are available.
Teton Teepee Lodge(440 W. Alta Ski Hill Rd., Alta, Wyo., 307-353-1000) is just over the border in Alta, Wyo., a few miles from Driggs. This lodge is a unique, affordable basecamp, with 18 rooms around circular common area with a fireplace. Rooms start at $129.
ROAD TRIP 1
Rockhound Road Trip
Start: City of Rocks / End: Riggins
Whether you’re a rock climber, an avid hiker, a geology enthusiast or simply enjoy some dramatic mountain views along the way, Idaho’s geology has transformed the landscape into an incredible playground.
Rock climbing at Castle Rocks State Park; Photo courtesy Idaho Tourism
1. City of Rocks National Reserve
On the southern Idaho border, the surreal spires rising above the City of Rocks are composed of uniquely pocketed granite. It’s a mecca for rock climbers, but even the less vertically inclined can enjoy the history of Camp and Register Rocks, where hundreds of 19th-century signatures were written in axle grease by travelers on the California Trail.
2. Castle Rocks State Park
Sharing a ranger station with the City of Rocks, Castle Rocks has a wealth of mountain biking and horseback riding trails. You can also sign up for guided rock-climbing trips on the many granite routes throughout the park.
Hiking Craters of the Moon National Monument & Preserve; Photo courtesy Idaho Tourism
3. Craters of the Moon National Monument
750,000 acres near Arco are covered in basaltic lava from a volcanic eruption thousands of years ago. Hulking cinder buttes and snaking lava tubes compose the dreamlike landscape. Survey the scenery from Devil’s Orchard and explore the swirling lava tubes of the Caves Trail.
4. Land of the Yankee Fork State Park
Head up the Salmon River Scenic Byway to the Land of the Yankee Fork State Park. The scattered collection of gold-mining era ghost towns—Bonanza and the wonderfully-restored Custer—are a portal to a bygone time.
Stand up paddleboarding at Redfish Lake with Sawtooth Mountains in background near Stanley, Idaho; Courtesy Idaho Tourism
5. Stanley and Redfish Lake
The Sawtooth Mountains loom above the quaint downtown of Stanley. The mountains offer incredible hiking opportunities but are perhaps best enjoyed from a kayak on nearby Redfish Lake where the toothy peaks reflect off the water’s surface.
6. Hells Canyon
West of the ski town of McCall is Hells Canyon, a nearly 8,000-foot-deep gorge cut by the Snake River through a volcanic basalt plateau. You can explore the deepest river gorge in North America on a jet boat tour with River Adventures in Riggins.
ROAD TRIP 2
Northern Idaho Wine Country Tour
Start: Lewiston / End: Sandpoint
Northern Idaho isn’t all about rock climbing, hiking and mountain biking. There’s a more relaxed side of the panhandle in wine country. Bring a corkscrew and get ready to tip your glass with the Gem State’s finest winemakers.
Lindsay Creek Vineyards; Courtesy Idaho Tourism
1. Lewiston
Idaho winemaking originated in the Lewis-Clark Valley in the 1870s with French immigrant Louis Desol. It remains the heart of Idaho wine country today and was named the state’s newest American Viticultural Area. A host of outstanding wineries, including Clearwater Canyon Cellars—the gorgeous patio overlooks the Syrah grapes, so give that a try for a multi-sensory meta tasting—Lindsay Creek Vineyards and Vine 46.
2. Moscow
From Lewiston head to Moscow, a surprisingly lively town that’s home to the University of Idaho and numerous winemakers. Stop in for a sampling at the Colter’s Creek tasting room in Moscow or visit their other location just down the road in Juliaetta to try the eponymous Juliaetta Rosè. The Juliaetta location is situated right on Potlatch Creek, formerly named Colter’s Creek (after the famous scout John Colter who was part of the Lewis and Clark expedition through the area in the early 19th century).
3. Coeur d’Alene
Spend your morning on the water in search of some classic summer fun before heading to Coeur d’Alene Cellars. In the tasting room—nicknamed Barrel Room No. 6—try a few favorite vintages along with some hors d’oeuvres like the meat and cheese board. Come on a Saturday evening for some live music to accompany your tasting.
4. Sandpoint
Sandpoint’s historic downtown winemakers stick to tradition. The Pend d’Oreille Winery uses classic French winemaking methods in a restored building featuring original brick walls. The Cabernet Franc pairs well with the traditional French vibe, as well as with the hand-tossed pizzas.
ROAD TRIP 3
Hot Springs, History & Watering Holes
Start: Boise / End: Lowman
Idaho has a rich western tradition rooted in exploration and the outdoors. Ramble through the state’s remarkable landscapes to discover mountains, hot springs and plenty of history along the way.
Start your trip in the Gem State’s capital. Explore the network of trails, crisscrossing the town’s foothills, aboard a mountain bike. After that, enjoy a beverage from one of Boise’s dozens of local breweries. You can’t leave without trying the sour and barrel-aged brews from Barbarian.
Sand boarding, Bruneau Dunes State Park; Courtesy Idaho Tourism
2. Bruneau Dunes State Park
Climb the sandy peaks of Bruneau Dunes State Park and catch a stunning sunset while you’re at it. Created in part by the Bonneville Flood during the last ice age, the dunes uniquely form from the center of the basin, which has acted as a natural trap for 12,000 years.
3. Banbury Hot Springs and Blue Heart Springs
Start with a soak in the soothing, natural Banbury Hot Springs. After spending the night, rent a kayak and paddle to Blue Heart Springs, a natural oasis with crystal clear, Caribbean blue water surrounded by lava rock walls. You won’t believe you’re still in Idaho.
4. Sun Valley
Sun Valley needs little introduction, but the home of the world’s first chairlift is an incredible summer destination, too. Go for a soak in Frenchman’s Bend Hot Springs, enjoy some fly-fishing with Silver Creek Outfitters along the legendary Silver Creek and wrap it up with some prime rib from the famous Pioneer Saloon and a beer from Grumpy’s in downtown Ketchum.
5. Galena Lodge
Head north from Ketchum to the Galena Lodge. Hike and mountain bike on the nearby trails through the remote, scenic wilderness before spending the night at one of the Lodge’s fully furnished yurts. Just bring your own food to cook.
6. Pine Flats Hot Springs
Head back towards Boise if you plan to finish where you started, but spend a final night at the Pine Flats Campground and Hot Springs. A series of hot springs line the nearby Payette River, where a warm, relaxing soak comes with incredible mountain views near Lowman.
ROAD TRIP 4
Golfer’s Delight
Start: Coeur d’Alene / End: Bear Lake
Don’t leave home without the crooked sticks because Idaho is a paradise for golfers. World-class courses with unique layouts in incredible settings are scattered throughout the state. Tee it up and take your best shot.
Kick-off your golf journey with a one-of-a-kind experience at the Coeur d’Alene Resort Golf Course. The movable, floating island green on 14—the only one of its kind in the world—requires a boat to reach and hides 11 feet of its structure below the water’s surface.
2. Jug Mountain Ranch
Jug Mountain Ranch was built to showcase Idaho’s natural beauty with the 18-hole course integrating the terrain, water and trees into its design. In addition to renowned aesthetics, Jug Mountain Ranch is noted for offering unbeatable value.
3. Warm Springs Golf Course
A spacious, 18-hole championship course is just minutes from downtown Boise at Warm Springs. The well-shaded course is along the banks of the scenic Boise River and is a perfect place to spend the morning before venturing into Idaho’s cultural epicenter.
4. Sun Valley Resort Golf Courses
Talk about options. Sun Valley Resort near Ketchum has three courses—Trail Creek, White Clouds and Elkhorn—with 45 holes and an endless supply of mountain vistas. You can even catch a glimpse of Ernest Hemingway’s Idahome while hacking it up at White Clouds.
Water trampoline, Bear Lake State Park; Courtesy Idaho Tourism
5. Bear Lake West Golf Course
Not every day on the links needs to be hoity-toity and exclusive. Sometimes you just want to hit it around for a half-day in a beautiful place. The nine-hole Bear Lake West Golf Course is the perfect place to do just that while leaving enough time to explore other recreation Bear Lake has to offer.
For more travel ideas, head to visitidaho.org. This feature is part of Salt Lake magazine’s 2021 Travel Series. Read our road trips to Colorado and Wyoming.
“So that’s what 41 feet looks like,” I thought to myself. I took a deep breath to gather my nerve, jumped up and out from the platform and watched the water come rushing up towards my feet before straightening up and extending for a perfect entry. Kind of. Well, not even really kind of, but I plunged into the pool without feeling like I’d splattered on concrete. Good enough for who it’s for, at least. The 12.5-meter platform I’d just plummeted from was the highest the public is allowed to jump from at the High Dive Experience at the Utah Olympic Park (UOP) in Park City, and I was secretly happy they wouldn’t let me go any higher.
“That was much better,” Owen Weymouth, said from the side of the pool while flashing a thumbs up. Weymouth was lying. It was perhaps marginally better, but I’m quite certain the professional high diver for Red Bull and the British National Team giving me tips would be unimpressed by anything I could ever do off a platform. Nevertheless, I appreciated the positive feedback along with the instruction that kept me from imitating a bug hitting the windshield.
I’m not a complete stranger to dropping from heights. Like many of you probably did, I sketchily leapt from the rim of janky rock quarries after a couple beverages during my younger days, but the romanticized notion of risk-taking fades when you’re rapidly aging with a kid at home. I was thrilled at the opportunity to take the leap while trading in the DIY aesthetic for some lifeguards on the side in case I really messed up.
https://youtu.be/BhfindRgTIY
The High Diving Experience is a one-of-a-kind chance for regular folks like me to jump from towering platforms under safe, controlled circumstances. During a 90-minute session, participants learn the basics to safely jump into the water. Divers start from a three-meter platform, then move through five, seven and a half, 10—that’s the Olympic high diving standard—and ultimately 12.5-meter platforms after performing two successful jumps at each interval. Having world-class athletes like Weymouth on hand giving feedback helps divers improve a touch each time while providing a bit of a carrot to at least act unafraid. Professional high divers are psychotically talented and unintimidated by heights—Weymouth does multiple flipping twists from the 27.5-meter (that’s 90 feet) platform while starting from a handstand—so it’s best to act cool when they’re watching you jump.
Did I feel any apprehension while climbing the towering scaffolding structure knowing I was going to jump off when there was a perfectly good staircase I was already using? Probably, but I was going to bury that fear way down. And when a wayward thought of hesitation snuck in, it was easy to catch inspiration from seeing freestyle skiers toss implausibly technical tricks off the ramps at the other end of the pool. The UOP is filled with all manner of world-class aerialist athletes at any given time, so even the fearless, kinesthetically-aware among you will find a welcome bit of awe and something to aspire to while there.
The High Diving Institute has found a perfect partner with the UOP. CEO Ellie Smart—a professional high diver herself—worked tirelessly to find the right spot to host a world-class facility so high divers in the United States could train. UOP, which already has many ties to Olympic athletes, was a natural fit as high diving gains in popularity and pushes for future Olympic inclusion. The 10-meter platform is already part of the Games, but the High Diving Institute has their sights set higher. The women compete from 20-meter platforms and the men from 27-meter platforms. Both heights are absurd, especially when you’re standing on the edge looking down. Just walking out to the end of the 27-meter platform was enough. I was glad they cut me off at 12.5 meters, which is still higher than any other platform for public participation in the country.
The author, very happy he isn’t about to jump from 90 feet.
You can sign up for the High Dive Experience online. All it takes is $85, a couple of waivers, and a willingness to take the leap. There are very few places on earth you get to feel like a kid again while getting coaching from world-class athletes. If you want to take things up a notch, you can join a high-dive camp to push your skills, learn some flips and really get after it. Three-day camps start at $295 per person, and five-day camps start at $425. The experience and camps are suitable for all skill levels and ages as long as you’re eight or over. No excuses. Visit the High Diving Institute website for full details.
It’s going to be 100 degrees again this weekend, and the last thing anyone wants to do is subject themselves to the heat of the day and heat of the grill under the judgemental eye of their fathers. Instead, ditch the Father’s Day barbeque and beat the heat with one (or more) of the ideas below. “Hey, wait a minute!” some of you might say. “My dad is a cool dad!” First off, thanks for rubbing it in. Secondly, why did you click on the headline if that is really the case? Whatever. I guess you can do any of these things with your dad as well if you really want to.
Swimming holes
Seeing my dad shirtless in swim trunks is not something I’m particularly keen on doing this Father’s Day. But a cool, refreshing swim might be the exact thing to abate our summer suffering. If you’re on the north end of the Wasatch Front, there are outdoor, indoor and splash swimming pools at the Kearns Oquirrh Park Fitness Center. Down on the southern end of the Wasatch, there’s Provo Beach’s Flowrider, an indoor wave machine that pumps water under your feet to simulate surfing (or the closest thing you’re going to get in a landlocked state). If you will get a sort of sick satisfaction from seeing your dad wipe out, smashing his face into 30,000 gallons of rushing water, bring him along.
Watering holes
Many all-American dads wouldn’t be caught dead drinking high-end cocktails, especially if it comes in pink. Their loss. A Frosé is a cocktail made to challenge toxic masculinity, typically made from frozen rosé wine and strawberries. Lake Effect in Salt Lake City has a version on their cocktail menu that includes Beehive Jack Rabbit Gin. For a more “macho” frozen cocktail, there’s always the frozen margarita (check out Salt Lake’s list of some of the best margaritas around), but, beware, pops might insist on tagging along for that one.
On the water
Try river rafting without Dad on the Green River this Father’s Day (photo courtesy Utah Office of Tourism)
We’re back to avoiding a shirtless dad in swim trunks but with the added embarrassment of his driving as poorly on the water as he does on the road. For boating and watersports, you really can’t go wrong with any number of Utah’s State Parks. Jordanelle and Deer Creek Reservoirs are local favorites, so you might have more elbow room at Echo State Park in Summit County. It was established in just 2018 but has a history of providing a solid place for camping, boating and fishing. If you’re headed out east, keep going until you hit Flaming Gorge Reservoir, where you can also raft sections of the Green River.
Winter in Summer
This Father’s Day, fly down an Olympic ski jump on an inner tube solo at the Utah Olympic Park. (photo courtesy Utah Office of Tourism)
While it was built for the 2002 Winter Olympics, the Utah Olympic Park is a helluva time in the summer as well. There’s the alpine slide, ropes course and the chance to hurl yourself bodily down an Olympic ski jump on an inner tube. Definitely don’t bring dad. Another image we will never want seared into our retinas is that of dad’s combover waving in the breeze as he braves the zipline. Park City Mountain Resort has similar outdoor activities happening throughout the summer season, including the opportunity to cool down on the Mountain Coaster.
Cool cool caves
Caves are cool. They’re also cool (there’s a dad joke for you). While the trail to Timpanogos Cave in American Fork Canyon might reach upwards of 100 degrees, temperatures inside the cave average about 45 degrees. Southern Utah is also a great destination for underground exploration with the Mammoth Lava Tubes in the Dixie National Forest, near Duck Creek Village. The caves were formed by cooling lava and water within the last several thousand years, creating more than 2,200 feet of passages and tunnels varying in height from full-standing to belly-crawl. Once again, if you experience schadenfreude from watching your dad heave himself through a tunnel on his gut, might as well bring him. But, I think we all know he (and we) would be much happier this Father’s Day if he was left alone to do what he loves: muttering to himself as he putters around the garage and backyard.
My left hand clung desperately to the perimeter rope as I craned my neck keeping my face above the whitewash. The chill of the Arkansas’s churning water hit with a shock even though we’d discussed the possibility of our raft flipping just minutes earlier. Hoisting myself back atop the inflatable craft, I took a gasping string of breaths after gulping down river water.
Rafting the Arkansas River, Adobe Stock
The line was sound, and our paddles were in the water, but it was hopeless with just two paddlers in such a light raft. Our guide from Blazing Adventures(555 E. Durant Ave., Aspen, 970-923-4544) had hinted at the futility of taking on the meaty line through Brown’s Canyon at high water, and I got the sense he was secretly looking forward to tossing me in the drink. We’d worked together as raft guides in the Northeast after graduating college and I’d gone soft sitting behind a computer. But the excitement was exactly what we’d signed up for—whitewater’s in the name, after all—and I was secretly grateful the sudden swim had cut through my foggy head from the prior evening out on the town.
Burning the candle at both ends is part and parcel of being in Aspen. Early morning wakeups for multi-sport days in the mountains lead to late nights around town. As mountain towns go, Aspen isn’t exactly quaint, but as a home base to explore the Roaring Fork Valley it isn’t dull. Utahns have a healthy rivalry with our Colorado neighbors, but that comes with genuine respect for the immense landscapes and quirky culture permeating the Centennial State’s mountain communities. Load up the car with as much gear as it can carry and don’t forget to throw in the formal western wear. It’s time see if the grass really is greener in the high wild hills of Colorado.
A Little Place Called Aspen Roaring Fork Valley
“If we can’t win in Aspen, we can’t win anywhere,” failed Pitkin County Sheriff candidate Hunter S. Thompson told The New York Times in 1970. The Gonzo prophet’s doomed bid for elected office had garnered nearly 46% of the vote, a losing but nevertheless surprisingly robust ration considering one of the campaign’s pillars was changing the town’s name to Fat City to “prevent greedheads, land-rapers and other human jackals from capitalizing on the name ‘Aspen.’” The town, oft regarded as a haven for the ultra-wealthy, has clearly always maintained an iconoclast streak.
Thriving among the vibe-chasing influencers in mountain-adjacent Balenciaga clothing and cowpoke cosplaying interlopers is a collection of river rats, artists, ski bums, chefs, brewers and distillers. These personalities, frequently relegated to the background behind Aspen’s glossy veneer, are as integral to the town’s character as the eponymous resort’s gondola, the historic mining infrastructure and the hulking edifice looming over the Roaring Fork Valley, Mount Sopris. Freak Power reigns, election results be damned. Whether that means exploring oxygen-depleted heights above treeline in the surrounding Elk Mountains or plumbing the depths of a whiskey glass in a dimly-lit local dive, it’s waiting here for you to carry on the legacy.
Where to Play
After receiving a good thrashing in rapids of Brown’s Canyon, I thought it best to recuperate in some warmer, more placid waters northwest of town in Glenwood Springs. The mineral pool in Glenwood Hot Springs Pool(415 E. 6th St., Glenwood Springs, 970-945-6571) is the largest in the world, drawing from the 3.5 million gallons of water produced each day by the Yampah spring. For years I’d driven right through Glenwood Springs on the way to and from mountain misadventures. Once I’d “taken the waters” from the 104-degree therapy pool, I realized my mistake. Invigorated, I headed to the spiritual home of Freak Power at the Gonzo Gallery(601 E. Hyman Ave., Aspen, 970-510-0656). Inside is an eclectic collection of gunshot art from “Doctor” Hunter S. Thompson himself as well a selection from his collaborators and compatriots, including political posters produced by activist Thomas W. Benton and artwork by subversive illustrator and Gonzo sidekick Ralph Steadman. The Gonzo Gallery is a fitting tribute to the legacy of these artists, who would delight in the legalized cannabis available throughout the town.
Downtown Aspen, Photo by Emily Chaplin
Post-Gonzo, it was time to hit the waterway for which the valley is named, the Roaring Fork River. Being the inept fly fisherman I am, I sought out some guidance from the local experts atElk Mountain Anglers(100 Smuggler Mountain Rd., Aspen, 970-456-6287). A half-day wade fishing trip just minutes from downtown Aspen saw me land a couple of trout that would have certainly evaded my hook had I gone it alone.
I’d spent quite a lot of time in the waterways dissecting the area, but not much time high in the hills, so I hopped aboard my mountain bike to grind out the Snowmass to Aspen shuttle ride. If you need to rent a bike or get some trail beta, head to Hub of Aspen(616 E. Hyman Ave., Aspen, 970-925-7970). They have a great rental fleet and a wealth of insider info. We left a car at Buttermilk’s Tiehack lot and shuttled to Snowmass to start the 18-mile ride. We shuttled back just in time to catch the Thursday Night Concert Series at Snowmass, kicking back to listen to live tunes with a frosty beverage in hand.
Where to Eat and Drink
Aspen’s tendency to late nights that make for hazy mornings means it’s prudent to kickstart the day. Head to the Marble Distilling(150 Main St., Carbondale, 970-963-7008) for the best Bloody Mary in the valley, made with vodka from Colorado grains and water. It’ll shake out the cobwebs.
For a more substantial breakfast, there’s no better place than Mawa’s Kitchen(305 Aspen Airport Business Center, Aspen, 970-710-7096). Chef Mawa McQueen serves up delightful twists on traditional brunch fare. The Maine Smoked Salmon Benedict and the Croque Madame are both favorites.
When it’s time to fuel up midday, head to the Meat and Cheese Restaurant(319 E. Hopkins Ave., Aspen, 970-710-7120). The menu extends far beyond what’s in its name with inspired cuisine merging multiple influences. Try the Bánh Mi and Korean Fried Chicken.
In the evening, sidle up at theJ-Bar(330 E. Main St., Aspen, 970-920-1000) for a Flat Iron Steak and Chevre Cheese Cake.
Catch last call atThe Red Onion(420 E. Cooper Ave., 970-925-9955). The local’s favorite hosts the most eclectic collection of personalities in town, mixed with affordable drinks and delicious fare, including everything from classic Colorado Buffalo Burgers to Pistachio-Panko Chicken Schnitzel.
Where to Stay
Hotel Jerome(330 E. Main St., Aspen, 970-920-1000) The historic hotel just steps away from the base of Aspen Mountain has been an institution in town since 1889. Decades before Aspen became an exclusive retreat, through the silver boom and bust, through the Great Depression and the rise of American recreational skiing, the Hotel Jerome hosted all manner of travelers. It’s eccentric, it’s old and it’s luxurious. It’s damn-near perfect.
Aspen Meadows Resort (845 Meadows Rd., Aspen, 970-925-4240) Nestled in Aspen’s quiet West End, the resort’s 40-acre property is home to both an elegant mid-century lodge and several art galleries. The Resnick Art Gallery features works by Herbert Bayer, while the Paepcke Art Gallery hosts a rotating collection of artwork. Art installations like the serpentine “Stone River” provide an immersive experience unlike at any other hotel in the area.
St. Moritz Lodge(334 W. Hyman Ave., Aspen, 970-925-3220) With shockingly economical rates for Aspen and flexible lodging options, St. Moritz Lodge is perfect for those who’d rather spend their cash adventuring in the mountains. The classic European-style chalet lodge has standard hotel rooms, condominiums and even private hostel rooms with shared bathrooms for the budget-minded traveler. Topping it all off, St. Moritz Lodge is located within walking distance from the heart of town.
Stand in awe among the Garden of the Gods and travel west through the Centennial State’s mining history to find hot springs, horseback rides and handcrafted cocktails.
Garden of the Gods, Adobe Stock
1. Garden of the Gods, Colorado Springs
The stunning sandstone formations throughout the Garden of the Gods rewired my brain when I first saw them decades ago. The magic still exists for every person who hikes and bikes beneath the Cathedral Valley.
2. Western Museum of Mining & Industry, Colorado Springs
The insatiable thirst for ore drove settlement and development through much of the Mountain West. The museum digs into that past with interactive, historic exhibitions.
3. Pikes Peak Cog Railway, Manitou Springs
Topping out on the summit of Pikes Peak at 14,110 feet, the Manitou and Pikes Peak Cog Railway is reopened for 2021 with new trains and a Strub rack-toothed rail system.
4. Horseback Riding at Elk Mountain Ranch, Buena Vista
Daily trail rides through remote, mountain trails in the Colorado backcountry let you relive the region’s frontier history. Suitable rides are available for all ages and abilities.
5. Deerhammer Distilling, Buena Vista
Blending traditional distilling processes with creative flavor profiles, Deerhammer is redefining what it means to be a truly independent American whiskey producer.
6. Mt. Princeton Hot Springs, Nathrop
Soothe those aching muscles and saddle sores with a visit to the Mt. Princeton Hot Springs Resort. Scenic, natural hot springs and larger relaxation pools are the perfect place to kick back in healing, heated waters.
7. Absolute Bikes, Salida
This full-service bike shop is the gateway to the immense mountain bike trail network at Salida’s doorstep. All the equipment, rentals and local beta you need to shred the local singletrack can be found here.
ROAD TRIP 2
San Juan Summer
Starting Point: Delta / Ending Point: Durango
Sample Colorado’s lesser-known craft beverage from wineries nestled in Delta’s parched landscape. Head south for some high-altitude jams at one of the west’s most beloved music festivals and sign up for the adventure and a taste of a bygone era in Durango. The San Juans are home to the best of Southwestern Colorado.
1. Stoney Mesa Winery, near Delta
One of Colorado’s oldest wineries, Stoney Mesa has been producing delightful vintages for more than three decades. The area’s mild climate is perfect for producing exquisite wines.
2. Mesa Winds Farm and Winery, near Delta
In addition to the six acres of land the winery uses to produce grapes, Mesa Winds also grows 14 acres of organic peaches and apples, which they sell on their own and use to produce fruit-infused wine varieties.
The iconic music festival set in dramatic surroundings returns for the 47th year and runs from June 17-20. This one isn’t to be missed for the banjo enthusiasts out there.
Telluride Village Gondola, Courtesy Visit Telluride
4. Telluride and Mountain Village Gondola, Telluride
This free gondola shuttles people over the 10,500-foot Coonskin Ridge to the base of the resort in just 13 minutes. It’s perfect for bikers, hikers, festival-goers or just those wanting a little aerial scenery.
5. Bread, Durango
This simply named, iconic, cash-only bakery in Durango has an incredible selection of bread, pastries and sandwiches in a rustic, reimagined warehouse.
Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad; Photo by Matt Inden/Miles
6. Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, Durango
The historic steam engine runs the line from Durango to Silverton, providing a taste of history with incomparable views of the mountains and canyons of southwestern Colorado.
The journey from Montrose to Crested Butte is a transitional one. Geologically the terrain transforms from the arid chasm of the Black Canyon to the high peaks and thin air of Crested Butte. Along the way, the vibe evolves from ruggedly hardscrabble western to quirky mountain retreat. Get rolling and find enjoyment in every mile.
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Adobe Stock Photo
1. Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, near Montrose
The 2,700 foot-deep chasm cutting through Precambrian rock on the Gunnison River receives just 33 minutes of sunlight per day. Visit the park to see the steepest, most dramatic 12-mile stretch.
2. Museum of the Mountain West, Montrose
Home to a collection of historic buildings including log cabins, shops and saloons, the Museum of the Mountain West preserves the living history of the pioneer era’s western expansion across the state of Colorado.
3. Dillon Pinnacles Hike, Near Sapinero
A moderately difficult out-and-back hike just shy of four miles brings you to the Blue Mesa Reservoir surrounded by wildly eroded volcanic formations, the Dillon Pinnacles. Spectacular views of the distant San Juan peaks are an added bonus.
4. High Alpine Brewing Company, Gunnison
With a delightful menu of brick-oven pizzas accompanying a wonderful selection of craft beers, like their Green Gate IPA and Sol’s Espresso Stout, High Alpine Brewing Company is a great stop for lunch or dinner.
5. Gunnison Valley Observatory, Gunnison
A 30-inch reflector telescope lets you peer into deep space through dark skies free of light pollution. This ain’t your run-of-the-mill campfire star gazing.
Downtown Crested Butte, Photo by Kristina Blokhin
6. Camp 4 Coffee, Crested Butte
Fuel up for a day of adventure the right way with a caffeinated beverage from the quirky coffee shack right in the middle of town.
7. Mountain Bike at Crested Butte Mountain Resort, Crested Butte
Crested Butte has staked its claim as the birthplace of modern mountain biking. See if your lungs and legs are up to the challenge with endless miles of pristine singletrack in the town’s thin air.
8. Montanya Distillers, Crested Butte
Wind things down with some award-winning rum and an eclectically delicious menu of cuisine right on historic Elk Ave.
ROAD TRIP 4
Front Range Adventure, Art and Brews
Starting Point: Fort Collins / Ending Point: Denver
Endless plains to the east suddenly jut skyward at the Front Range. More than just a gateway to the mountains, this area is the creative capital of Colorado, brimming with artists, brewers and adventurers. Dive in for full-pint glasses, captivating murals and, of course, a splash of outdoor exploration on Colorado’s Front Range.
Courtesy Odell Brewing Company
1. Odell Brewing Company, Fort Collins
The 20 breweries in Fort Collins produce 70% of Colorado’s craft beer, and it’s hard to do better than Odell Brewing. Stop into the brewery to try their latest, like the Witkist White Grapefruit Ale or a classic like the 90 Schilling Amber Ale.
Cache La Poudre River near Fort Collins, Photo by Matt Inden/Miles
2. Kayaking in Poudre Canyon, Fort Collins
Get your paddle on at the Poudre River Whitewater Park. Whether you’re an expert kayaker or just someone looking for a nice float in a tub, this park just north of Old Town is a unique treat.
3. The Art Hotel, Denver
Explore Denver’s burgeoning art scene from your accommodations at the Art. A curated collection of in-house art transforms your lodging into a rich museum experience, just steps away from the iconic Denver Art Museum.
Denver Art Museum, Photo by Matt Inden/Miles
4. Denver Art Museum, Denver
The building itself is pretty much a work of art, but the inside boasts 70,000 pieces from around the world and across the centuries. You won’t find a better collection of art between the west coast and Chicago.
5. Mural Tour by Bike, Denver
The city is decorated throughout with murals. Travel by bike to see expressions of civic pride (“Love This City” by Pat Millbury on W. 7th Ave and Santa Fe Dr) and celebrations of multicultural heritage (“Afro Flower Lady” by Jiacuy Roche at The Stanley Marketplace).
It all started when an unknown party abandoned a campfire on June 9 in the La Sal Mountains north of Moab. The seemingly simple act of carelessness sparked a blaze, the Pack Creek Fire, that has now engulfed more than 8,500 acres and is only 30% contained. With excessive heat and ongoing drought gripping the western United States, firefighting crews—comprised of 426 personnel, 11 crews, 11 helicopters and 21 engines—are facing difficult conditions while working to control the wildfire.
Wildfires have become a source of increasing concern in Utah where wildland-urban interfaces (WUIs) extend further into previously undeveloped areas and hot, dry summer months turn unmanaged forest full of built up fuel into veritable tinder boxes. While the state does some admirable work with fuel reduction projects, the Pack Creek Fire—just one of three active and uncontained large fires in Utah—is evidence of how suddenly wildfires can sweep across huge swaths of land once sparked.
As is often the case with natural calamity, it isn’t until something familiar or beloved is threatened that we start paying attention. Such is the case outside of Moab, where access to the world-famous Whole Enchilada trail system, which runs from Burro Pass high in the La Sals all the way down to the Colorado River in town, is on the verge of burning. The Whole Enchilada is the centerpiece of Moab’s mountain biking infrastructure, economically crucial to the area because it draws tourists from around the globe and serves as the destination for myriad shuttle services in town that whisk riders high in the mountains above oppressive summer heat. Some high-altitude trails have already been engulfed, while the remainder of the area remains threatened.
On the historic and literary front, the fire has damaged portions of the Pack Creek Ranch. The ranch, with its bucolic cabins at the base of the La Sals, has hosted well-known authors such as Edward Abbey, Terry Tempest Williams, Wendell Berry, Amy Irvine, Robert Fulghum, Wallace Stegner and Katie Lee. Actors Robert Duvall, Susan Sarandon, John Wayne and most of the crew of the movie Thelma and Louise made their base at Pack Creek Ranch. Physicist Stephen Hawking and other scientists have all enjoyed the unique setting of Pack Creek Ranch. In 1986 Jane & Ken Sleight purchased the ranch. Ken, a legendary river runner, horseback guide was a good friend of late author Edward Abbey and was the real-life inspiration for “Seldom Seen Smith” a character in Abby’s Monkey Wrench Gang. Although the cabins are now all privately owned, Jane and Ken still live there and lost much in the fire. Friends of the Sleights have started a fundraiser to assist the couple. For more information contact Ken Sanders Rare Books, (801) 521-3819, books@kensandersrare books.
The possible destruction of a popular recreation area isn’t the only devastation to come from the Pack Creek fire, even if it is what’s drawing the most eyes to the issue. Homes have been lost, wildlife habitat torched, and the area’s watershed and air quality compromised. Firefighters have been able to make significant progress in containing the fire over the past 24 hours thanks to slightly lower temperatures and higher humidity. There are now over 55 miles of fireline built along the blaze and no injuries have been reported.
There is a current statewide ban on open fires on all state lands and BLM managed lands in Southwestern Utah. Please be sure to adhere to all current fire restrictions as there is extreme fire danger in much of the state. Hopefully firefighters are able to contain the spread and save Utah’s most famous trail system, which is so vital to the surrounding community. We’ll continue to update this story and track how wildfires affect outdoor recreation, the environment and the economy in Utah this fire season.
Gather your sunscreen, wide-brimmed hats, and reusable bags—it’s market time. Farmer’s markets have become a must-do for many summer shoppers, but as the sun reminds us to get outside, think about scheduling in a few market stops you might not have heard much about.
Join Tree Utah this Saturday for a day of art and community at the Wild Earth Market. Utah-based painters, printmakers, and more will be donating 10% of their proceeds towards the environmental group, which has planted hundreds of thousands of trees in Utah public spaces. See some new art, learn about a great cause, and, while you’re there, sign up to volunteer with Tree Utah to assist in new plantings around the state.
After dropping by your go-to coffee shop this weekend, consider a pilgrimage up to Park City for the Park Silly Sunday Market. Park Silly has everything you want from an outdoor market—great music, tasty food and plenty of skilled artisans. For those of us that usually only make it up to Main Street when the concrete is crusted with ice, the summertime mountain views will be worth the drive alone.
Open Sundays through September 780 Main St., Park City
Mark your calendars on the second Sunday, grab a few friends,and drop by the Urban Flea Market at the Gateway. Here you can browse through mercurial stands supplied with vintage goods and antiques, and many sellers can teach you the history behind your purchase. Things move a little slower in the city on the Sabbath, and it’s an excellent time to get downtown, explore and meet some new people.
Open once a month through October 12 W. Rio Grande, SLC
Buyers and sellers – come one, come all! Buyers: This place has a little bit of everything, and you never know what randomness you’re about to run into—looking for a new box of pink tiles to repair your 1950s bathroom, or perhaps a Def Leppard Hysteria tour tee? You might find it here among the conglomerate of mish-mashed unexpected goodies. Sellers: Interested in getting rid of the junk that’s been in your basement for the last 15 years that you keep telling yourself one day you’ll use? Grab it—actually, grab the weirdest things you can find around your house if you plan on selling. Seriously, the stranger it is, the more it is likely to sell. Insider tip: although the swap meet is open both Saturday and Sunday, Sunday is the day you don’t want to miss if you’re going to sell. Don’t take my word for it; the selling fee says it all: $5 on Saturday and on Sunday the price ranges from $20-35 depending on how much space you need.
After you leave the Motor-Vu Swap Meet, make your drive up north worth the trip and head to Ogden for the Bizarre Market. The setting couldn’t be better; housed in The Monarch, this place is filled with endless quirky finds guaranteed to pull your face into non-stop smiles. Meet makers, artisans, up cyclers, non-profits, and grab a bite to eat at the various food trucks.
The line gracefullydances across the water as fading sunlight glimmers off its surface. The only sound is that of the river’s perpetual journey. You’re just a pair of waders, a few hand-tied flies and a rod away from an endless stream of grip-and-grin photographs for your Instagram feed. It’s like the veteran fly fisher who shows up to casual occasions with a hat full of used fishhooks told me, “It’s not like you’re going to step out there and have it be some personal A River Runs Through It dream.”
Hold up. I’m not? Fly fishing, it turns out, is a subtle art. It takes a singular focus to fully master this mediative sport.
To do more than stand in the middle of a river futilely casting away with a grip of expensive gear you’ll have to build a foundation of skill and knowledge. Utah is home to remote high-mountain lakes, easy-access rivers perfect for after-work fishing and everything in between, ready to dish up a plethora of trout and bass to fly fishers with some mettle. All you have to do is earn your stripes. Ready to get started?
Gathering Intel
Courtesy Western Rivers Flyfisher
Starting from square one can seem daunting, but amid the internet’s endless detritus is a wealth of information to guide you on the journey to fly fishing nirvana. As anyone who has tried to learn a new skill, from patching drywall to changing a bicycle tire, can attest, there’s an instructional YouTube channel or a podcast for that.
Start with Ascent Fly Fishing’s virtual tools. Ascent’s biologists, guides and committed anglers have devoted a lifetime to tricking fish into biting what you’re casting and in their spare time have written instructional blog posts with titles like “Fly Fishing for Kokanee Salmon 101” and podcasts covering subjects like organizing your fly box.
Fly Fish Food, a full-service retail shop in Orem (Fly Fish Food, 932 N. State St., Orem, 801-615-6055), has an online library of remarkably detailed fly-tying tutorials with video guides, materials lists and the option to shop online.
If you prefer the weight of a book in hand, reach for the Guide to Fly Fishing in Utah by Steve Schmidt.
Take a Lesson
Courtesy Western Rivers Flyfisher
While diligent study is a morally-sound endeavor, few would attest to it being more rewarding than being out on the water in Utah’s beautiful public lands. But without some expertise, you’re likely to spend the whole day staring at your surroundings without hooking a single fish. “Our emphasis is teaching people a foundation of knowledge they can use to pursue fly fishing in any way they choose,” says Steve Schmidt, the owner of Western Rivers Flyfisher who literally wrote the aforementioned book on fly fishing in Utah.
The best starting point, according to Schmidt, is with Western Rivers Flyfisher’s summer Fly Fishing 101 classes (1071 E. 900 South, SLC, 801-521-6324). “These classes give you the basics to start a lifelong journey,” he says. “When I started at nine years old, I had to go to the library to check out books and seek out someone who would teach me to tie knots. We make it much easier than that.”
The four-day classes begin with two evening sessions covering gear and essential flies and get into subjects like how weather affects insects and fish. Day three is an evening session at the park to focus solely on casting instruction. You’ll learn the roll cast and the pick-up/lay-down, along with basic knots and rigging.
Day four is out on the water of the popular and accessible Middle Provo River for the hands-on portion of your instruction. Women’s-only classes are also available as well as guided trips. Guides are there to not only help clients hook some fish but also become better anglers. “Even on our guided trips, we’re trying to teach something people can use in the future,” says Schmidt.
Helpful Fly-Fishing Apps for Utah
Those pocket-sized computers we all tote around are a useful source of on-the-go information. Here are a couple of helpful apps for fly fishing in Utah.
