Tony Gill is the outdoor and Park City editor for Salt Lake Magazine and previously toiled as editor-in-chief of Telemark Skier Magazine. Most of his time ignoring emails is spent aboard an under-geared single-speed on the trails above his home.
The sounds of summer are back! After a one-year hiatus, the community concerts Park City is famous for have returned to the mountains for 2021. Park City Mountain just kicked off the Summer Concert Series at Canyons Village, and over at Deer Valley, the music is flowing at the Grand Valley Bank Community Concert Series. Shows at both resorts are completely free, though you need to RSVP online for the Grand Valley Bank Community Concert Shows because they’re currently only allowing half capacity (3,500 people).
The Canyons Village shows got underway with a well-attended Independence Day celebration last Saturday on July 3. From now until the end of August, a combination of local and national artists will hit the stage on select Thursdays and Saturdays. Park City Mainstays like Wyatt Pike and Aiko—the Grateful Dead tribute band helmed by the organizer of the upcoming Park City Song Summit—will be joined by national touring acts like Hot Buttered Rum.
The venue and Cabriolet Lift will open at 5 p.m. and concerts begin at 6 p.m. You can bring your own food, but no outside alcohol is allowed. They’re checking bags like overeager TSA recruits up there, so, ya know, come prepared. The complete schedule of shows at Canyons Village is listed below.
Free community shows are also underway at Deer Valley. Every other Wednesday throughout the summer, the Snow Park Outdoor Amphitheater is hosting a great lineup of music. I recently saw local legends Lash Larue play there with 3,499 of my closest friends, and it was wonderful to see the community come together again.
The Grand Valley Bank Community Concert Series is run by Mountain Town Music, which organizes over 275 community events per year. Visit the Mountain Town Music website for full details and a list of shows. Attendees can bring their own food and booze to the lawn at Deer Valley, but again, must RSVP online with Mountain Town Music.
Finally we’re getting serious solutions aimed at reducing traffic and parking congestion in Park City and the Wasatch Back. High Valley Transit recently launched a micro-transit system and will be launching bus service on July 1, both aimed at offering fare-free transit for Summit County visitors and locals.
“What is micro transit?” you’re probably asking. It’s a flexible, demand-responsive service to get people to and from the places they’re likely to go in a community. Put another way, High Valley Transit’s micro service is basically free Uber for Summit County. Just download the app, pick a destination and a travel option and track your ride in real time. Seriously. It’s amazing. It runs from 5 a.m. to 1 a.m. each day and solves a lot of those pesky last-mile issues that plague public transit systems, like when someone with a broken foot doesn’t want to crutch the last 5,280 feet to the doctor’s office or someone doesn’t fancy carrying 86 pounds of groceries back to their rental condo.
Photo courtesy of High Valley Transit
In its short service life thus far, High Valley Transit has been a game changer for people living in Snyderville Basin. You may have seen the multi-colored black, blue and purple vans driving around town. That’s HVT. Get picked up by a van with a bike rack way out in Summit Park before getting dropped off at Canyons Village. Go out for dinner and drinks before getting dropped off right at the door of your Pinebrook rental. It’s really that easy, and did we mention it’s free?
As great as the micro transit service has been, it will only be improved by the bus service when it begins on July 1. The fare-free bus lines will take riders all the way from the Jeremy Ranch park and ride to the Kamas park and ride and everywhere in between. Finally, Summit County is being connected with convenient transit that doesn’t require personal vehicles.
It’s brilliant to see innovative transit solutions being implemented in Park City and Summit County. Traffic and parking issues get worse each year as more people commute to the area due to increased tourism and continual rise in housing costs. People from all factions of the community have been vocal about the need for change. Now it’s up to locals and visitors to do their part, utilize the new, free transit system when possible and be part of the positive change. Here’s hoping for less powder-day traffic and renewed sense of community now that public transportation isn’t as scary as it was in 2020.
The empty Maverick sitting at the corner of Bonanza Drive and S.R. 248 is a harbinger of change. Not to suggest the closure of a filling station is a significant sign of cultural or community decline, but the dearth of activity on the edge of a once-bustling, albeit utilitarian, commercial district is apparent to those familiar with the area. The land stretching inward from the intersection is slated for an ambitious development project, a brand-new Arts and Culture District, which will transform the eastern end of Park City. A project of such scale carries a hefty price tag, one that looks far more imposing in the wake of a pandemic-induced economic downturn.
In 2017, City Hall announced it was acquiring the land for the arts and culture district. Thanks to a flourishing local economy, the timing seemed perfect for the city to undertake the $88.4 million project that would have ample long-term benefits by diversifying its economic base and hedging against the reliance on ski tourism. Selling anchor buildings to the Kimball Art Center and Sundance Institute would help City Hall pay the sum, as would leasing workforce and affordable housing as part of the project.
Planners at a Crucial Moment
The Arts and Culture District will require approval from the Park City Planning Commission, and the panel will be considering plans for the site in the wake of significant turnover. Two of the seven spots will be filled by new members, and Gretchen Milliken will be succeeding the late Bruce Erickson as planning director. Milliken has acknowledged the need for her recusal from some aspects of the project where a conflict of interest could arise. Milliken is married to Aldy Milliken, executive director of the Kimball Art Center.
But the situation has taken a sharp turn in the wake of the pandemic. Park City is forecasting a 21% revenue loss, at a minimum, for the fiscal year, which is certain to be compounded as major revenue-generating events were canceled throughout the year. The transient-room tax proposed to help with the necessary funding will be less impactful with reduced lodging occupancy, and the prospect of raising property taxes through a ballot measure may not find support after multiple similar hikes were approved in recent years to purchase open space.
Further complicating matters, the Kimball Art Center and Sundance Institute have taken an economic drubbing. The cancellation of the Kimball Art Festival in 2020 and the in-person portion of the 2021 Sundance Film Festival left deep holes in operating budgets, sowing doubt as to whether the organizations would remain committed to paying for buildings in the Arts and Culture District.
Nevertheless, City Hall remains optimistic. Councilor Steve Joyce explained that the city plans to collect revenue over the next 15-20 years, making the project less susceptible to a two-year downturn, and officials have expressed confidence in a swift economic recovery. Park City’s bounced back before, and the future of the Arts and Culture District requires doing so again.
My left hand clung desperately to the perimeter rope as I craned my neck keeping my face above the whitewash. The chill of the Arkansas’s churning water hit with a shock even though we’d discussed the possibility of our raft flipping just minutes earlier. Hoisting myself back atop the inflatable craft, I took a gasping string of breaths after gulping down river water.
Rafting the Arkansas River, Adobe Stock
The line was sound, and our paddles were in the water, but it was hopeless with just two paddlers in such a light raft. Our guide from Blazing Adventures(555 E. Durant Ave., Aspen, 970-923-4544) had hinted at the futility of taking on the meaty line through Brown’s Canyon at high water, and I got the sense he was secretly looking forward to tossing me in the drink. We’d worked together as raft guides in the Northeast after graduating college and I’d gone soft sitting behind a computer. But the excitement was exactly what we’d signed up for—whitewater’s in the name, after all—and I was secretly grateful the sudden swim had cut through my foggy head from the prior evening out on the town.
Burning the candle at both ends is part and parcel of being in Aspen. Early morning wakeups for multi-sport days in the mountains lead to late nights around town. As mountain towns go, Aspen isn’t exactly quaint, but as a home base to explore the Roaring Fork Valley it isn’t dull. Utahns have a healthy rivalry with our Colorado neighbors, but that comes with genuine respect for the immense landscapes and quirky culture permeating the Centennial State’s mountain communities. Load up the car with as much gear as it can carry and don’t forget to throw in the formal western wear. It’s time see if the grass really is greener in the high wild hills of Colorado.
A Little Place Called Aspen Roaring Fork Valley
“If we can’t win in Aspen, we can’t win anywhere,” failed Pitkin County Sheriff candidate Hunter S. Thompson told The New York Times in 1970. The Gonzo prophet’s doomed bid for elected office had garnered nearly 46% of the vote, a losing but nevertheless surprisingly robust ration considering one of the campaign’s pillars was changing the town’s name to Fat City to “prevent greedheads, land-rapers and other human jackals from capitalizing on the name ‘Aspen.’” The town, oft regarded as a haven for the ultra-wealthy, has clearly always maintained an iconoclast streak.
Thriving among the vibe-chasing influencers in mountain-adjacent Balenciaga clothing and cowpoke cosplaying interlopers is a collection of river rats, artists, ski bums, chefs, brewers and distillers. These personalities, frequently relegated to the background behind Aspen’s glossy veneer, are as integral to the town’s character as the eponymous resort’s gondola, the historic mining infrastructure and the hulking edifice looming over the Roaring Fork Valley, Mount Sopris. Freak Power reigns, election results be damned. Whether that means exploring oxygen-depleted heights above treeline in the surrounding Elk Mountains or plumbing the depths of a whiskey glass in a dimly-lit local dive, it’s waiting here for you to carry on the legacy.
Where to Play
After receiving a good thrashing in rapids of Brown’s Canyon, I thought it best to recuperate in some warmer, more placid waters northwest of town in Glenwood Springs. The mineral pool in Glenwood Hot Springs Pool(415 E. 6th St., Glenwood Springs, 970-945-6571) is the largest in the world, drawing from the 3.5 million gallons of water produced each day by the Yampah spring. For years I’d driven right through Glenwood Springs on the way to and from mountain misadventures. Once I’d “taken the waters” from the 104-degree therapy pool, I realized my mistake. Invigorated, I headed to the spiritual home of Freak Power at the Gonzo Gallery(601 E. Hyman Ave., Aspen, 970-510-0656). Inside is an eclectic collection of gunshot art from “Doctor” Hunter S. Thompson himself as well a selection from his collaborators and compatriots, including political posters produced by activist Thomas W. Benton and artwork by subversive illustrator and Gonzo sidekick Ralph Steadman. The Gonzo Gallery is a fitting tribute to the legacy of these artists, who would delight in the legalized cannabis available throughout the town.
Downtown Aspen, Photo by Emily Chaplin
Post-Gonzo, it was time to hit the waterway for which the valley is named, the Roaring Fork River. Being the inept fly fisherman I am, I sought out some guidance from the local experts atElk Mountain Anglers(100 Smuggler Mountain Rd., Aspen, 970-456-6287). A half-day wade fishing trip just minutes from downtown Aspen saw me land a couple of trout that would have certainly evaded my hook had I gone it alone.
I’d spent quite a lot of time in the waterways dissecting the area, but not much time high in the hills, so I hopped aboard my mountain bike to grind out the Snowmass to Aspen shuttle ride. If you need to rent a bike or get some trail beta, head to Hub of Aspen(616 E. Hyman Ave., Aspen, 970-925-7970). They have a great rental fleet and a wealth of insider info. We left a car at Buttermilk’s Tiehack lot and shuttled to Snowmass to start the 18-mile ride. We shuttled back just in time to catch the Thursday Night Concert Series at Snowmass, kicking back to listen to live tunes with a frosty beverage in hand.
Where to Eat and Drink
Aspen’s tendency to late nights that make for hazy mornings means it’s prudent to kickstart the day. Head to the Marble Distilling(150 Main St., Carbondale, 970-963-7008) for the best Bloody Mary in the valley, made with vodka from Colorado grains and water. It’ll shake out the cobwebs.
For a more substantial breakfast, there’s no better place than Mawa’s Kitchen(305 Aspen Airport Business Center, Aspen, 970-710-7096). Chef Mawa McQueen serves up delightful twists on traditional brunch fare. The Maine Smoked Salmon Benedict and the Croque Madame are both favorites.
When it’s time to fuel up midday, head to the Meat and Cheese Restaurant(319 E. Hopkins Ave., Aspen, 970-710-7120). The menu extends far beyond what’s in its name with inspired cuisine merging multiple influences. Try the Bánh Mi and Korean Fried Chicken.
In the evening, sidle up at theJ-Bar(330 E. Main St., Aspen, 970-920-1000) for a Flat Iron Steak and Chevre Cheese Cake.
Catch last call atThe Red Onion(420 E. Cooper Ave., 970-925-9955). The local’s favorite hosts the most eclectic collection of personalities in town, mixed with affordable drinks and delicious fare, including everything from classic Colorado Buffalo Burgers to Pistachio-Panko Chicken Schnitzel.
Where to Stay
Hotel Jerome(330 E. Main St., Aspen, 970-920-1000) The historic hotel just steps away from the base of Aspen Mountain has been an institution in town since 1889. Decades before Aspen became an exclusive retreat, through the silver boom and bust, through the Great Depression and the rise of American recreational skiing, the Hotel Jerome hosted all manner of travelers. It’s eccentric, it’s old and it’s luxurious. It’s damn-near perfect.
Aspen Meadows Resort (845 Meadows Rd., Aspen, 970-925-4240) Nestled in Aspen’s quiet West End, the resort’s 40-acre property is home to both an elegant mid-century lodge and several art galleries. The Resnick Art Gallery features works by Herbert Bayer, while the Paepcke Art Gallery hosts a rotating collection of artwork. Art installations like the serpentine “Stone River” provide an immersive experience unlike at any other hotel in the area.
St. Moritz Lodge(334 W. Hyman Ave., Aspen, 970-925-3220) With shockingly economical rates for Aspen and flexible lodging options, St. Moritz Lodge is perfect for those who’d rather spend their cash adventuring in the mountains. The classic European-style chalet lodge has standard hotel rooms, condominiums and even private hostel rooms with shared bathrooms for the budget-minded traveler. Topping it all off, St. Moritz Lodge is located within walking distance from the heart of town.
Stand in awe among the Garden of the Gods and travel west through the Centennial State’s mining history to find hot springs, horseback rides and handcrafted cocktails.
Garden of the Gods, Adobe Stock
1. Garden of the Gods, Colorado Springs
The stunning sandstone formations throughout the Garden of the Gods rewired my brain when I first saw them decades ago. The magic still exists for every person who hikes and bikes beneath the Cathedral Valley.
2. Western Museum of Mining & Industry, Colorado Springs
The insatiable thirst for ore drove settlement and development through much of the Mountain West. The museum digs into that past with interactive, historic exhibitions.
3. Pikes Peak Cog Railway, Manitou Springs
Topping out on the summit of Pikes Peak at 14,110 feet, the Manitou and Pikes Peak Cog Railway is reopened for 2021 with new trains and a Strub rack-toothed rail system.
4. Horseback Riding at Elk Mountain Ranch, Buena Vista
Daily trail rides through remote, mountain trails in the Colorado backcountry let you relive the region’s frontier history. Suitable rides are available for all ages and abilities.
5. Deerhammer Distilling, Buena Vista
Blending traditional distilling processes with creative flavor profiles, Deerhammer is redefining what it means to be a truly independent American whiskey producer.
6. Mt. Princeton Hot Springs, Nathrop
Soothe those aching muscles and saddle sores with a visit to the Mt. Princeton Hot Springs Resort. Scenic, natural hot springs and larger relaxation pools are the perfect place to kick back in healing, heated waters.
7. Absolute Bikes, Salida
This full-service bike shop is the gateway to the immense mountain bike trail network at Salida’s doorstep. All the equipment, rentals and local beta you need to shred the local singletrack can be found here.
ROAD TRIP 2
San Juan Summer
Starting Point: Delta / Ending Point: Durango
Sample Colorado’s lesser-known craft beverage from wineries nestled in Delta’s parched landscape. Head south for some high-altitude jams at one of the west’s most beloved music festivals and sign up for the adventure and a taste of a bygone era in Durango. The San Juans are home to the best of Southwestern Colorado.
1. Stoney Mesa Winery, near Delta
One of Colorado’s oldest wineries, Stoney Mesa has been producing delightful vintages for more than three decades. The area’s mild climate is perfect for producing exquisite wines.
2. Mesa Winds Farm and Winery, near Delta
In addition to the six acres of land the winery uses to produce grapes, Mesa Winds also grows 14 acres of organic peaches and apples, which they sell on their own and use to produce fruit-infused wine varieties.
The iconic music festival set in dramatic surroundings returns for the 47th year and runs from June 17-20. This one isn’t to be missed for the banjo enthusiasts out there.
Telluride Village Gondola, Courtesy Visit Telluride
4. Telluride and Mountain Village Gondola, Telluride
This free gondola shuttles people over the 10,500-foot Coonskin Ridge to the base of the resort in just 13 minutes. It’s perfect for bikers, hikers, festival-goers or just those wanting a little aerial scenery.
5. Bread, Durango
This simply named, iconic, cash-only bakery in Durango has an incredible selection of bread, pastries and sandwiches in a rustic, reimagined warehouse.
Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad; Photo by Matt Inden/Miles
6. Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, Durango
The historic steam engine runs the line from Durango to Silverton, providing a taste of history with incomparable views of the mountains and canyons of southwestern Colorado.
The journey from Montrose to Crested Butte is a transitional one. Geologically the terrain transforms from the arid chasm of the Black Canyon to the high peaks and thin air of Crested Butte. Along the way, the vibe evolves from ruggedly hardscrabble western to quirky mountain retreat. Get rolling and find enjoyment in every mile.
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Adobe Stock Photo
1. Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, near Montrose
The 2,700 foot-deep chasm cutting through Precambrian rock on the Gunnison River receives just 33 minutes of sunlight per day. Visit the park to see the steepest, most dramatic 12-mile stretch.
2. Museum of the Mountain West, Montrose
Home to a collection of historic buildings including log cabins, shops and saloons, the Museum of the Mountain West preserves the living history of the pioneer era’s western expansion across the state of Colorado.
3. Dillon Pinnacles Hike, Near Sapinero
A moderately difficult out-and-back hike just shy of four miles brings you to the Blue Mesa Reservoir surrounded by wildly eroded volcanic formations, the Dillon Pinnacles. Spectacular views of the distant San Juan peaks are an added bonus.
4. High Alpine Brewing Company, Gunnison
With a delightful menu of brick-oven pizzas accompanying a wonderful selection of craft beers, like their Green Gate IPA and Sol’s Espresso Stout, High Alpine Brewing Company is a great stop for lunch or dinner.
5. Gunnison Valley Observatory, Gunnison
A 30-inch reflector telescope lets you peer into deep space through dark skies free of light pollution. This ain’t your run-of-the-mill campfire star gazing.
Downtown Crested Butte, Photo by Kristina Blokhin
6. Camp 4 Coffee, Crested Butte
Fuel up for a day of adventure the right way with a caffeinated beverage from the quirky coffee shack right in the middle of town.
7. Mountain Bike at Crested Butte Mountain Resort, Crested Butte
Crested Butte has staked its claim as the birthplace of modern mountain biking. See if your lungs and legs are up to the challenge with endless miles of pristine singletrack in the town’s thin air.
8. Montanya Distillers, Crested Butte
Wind things down with some award-winning rum and an eclectically delicious menu of cuisine right on historic Elk Ave.
ROAD TRIP 4
Front Range Adventure, Art and Brews
Starting Point: Fort Collins / Ending Point: Denver
Endless plains to the east suddenly jut skyward at the Front Range. More than just a gateway to the mountains, this area is the creative capital of Colorado, brimming with artists, brewers and adventurers. Dive in for full-pint glasses, captivating murals and, of course, a splash of outdoor exploration on Colorado’s Front Range.
Courtesy Odell Brewing Company
1. Odell Brewing Company, Fort Collins
The 20 breweries in Fort Collins produce 70% of Colorado’s craft beer, and it’s hard to do better than Odell Brewing. Stop into the brewery to try their latest, like the Witkist White Grapefruit Ale or a classic like the 90 Schilling Amber Ale.
Cache La Poudre River near Fort Collins, Photo by Matt Inden/Miles
2. Kayaking in Poudre Canyon, Fort Collins
Get your paddle on at the Poudre River Whitewater Park. Whether you’re an expert kayaker or just someone looking for a nice float in a tub, this park just north of Old Town is a unique treat.
3. The Art Hotel, Denver
Explore Denver’s burgeoning art scene from your accommodations at the Art. A curated collection of in-house art transforms your lodging into a rich museum experience, just steps away from the iconic Denver Art Museum.
Denver Art Museum, Photo by Matt Inden/Miles
4. Denver Art Museum, Denver
The building itself is pretty much a work of art, but the inside boasts 70,000 pieces from around the world and across the centuries. You won’t find a better collection of art between the west coast and Chicago.
5. Mural Tour by Bike, Denver
The city is decorated throughout with murals. Travel by bike to see expressions of civic pride (“Love This City” by Pat Millbury on W. 7th Ave and Santa Fe Dr) and celebrations of multicultural heritage (“Afro Flower Lady” by Jiacuy Roche at The Stanley Marketplace).
It all started when an unknown party abandoned a campfire on June 9 in the La Sal Mountains north of Moab. The seemingly simple act of carelessness sparked a blaze, the Pack Creek Fire, that has now engulfed more than 8,500 acres and is only 30% contained. With excessive heat and ongoing drought gripping the western United States, firefighting crews—comprised of 426 personnel, 11 crews, 11 helicopters and 21 engines—are facing difficult conditions while working to control the wildfire.
Wildfires have become a source of increasing concern in Utah where wildland-urban interfaces (WUIs) extend further into previously undeveloped areas and hot, dry summer months turn unmanaged forest full of built up fuel into veritable tinder boxes. While the state does some admirable work with fuel reduction projects, the Pack Creek Fire—just one of three active and uncontained large fires in Utah—is evidence of how suddenly wildfires can sweep across huge swaths of land once sparked.
As is often the case with natural calamity, it isn’t until something familiar or beloved is threatened that we start paying attention. Such is the case outside of Moab, where access to the world-famous Whole Enchilada trail system, which runs from Burro Pass high in the La Sals all the way down to the Colorado River in town, is on the verge of burning. The Whole Enchilada is the centerpiece of Moab’s mountain biking infrastructure, economically crucial to the area because it draws tourists from around the globe and serves as the destination for myriad shuttle services in town that whisk riders high in the mountains above oppressive summer heat. Some high-altitude trails have already been engulfed, while the remainder of the area remains threatened.
On the historic and literary front, the fire has damaged portions of the Pack Creek Ranch. The ranch, with its bucolic cabins at the base of the La Sals, has hosted well-known authors such as Edward Abbey, Terry Tempest Williams, Wendell Berry, Amy Irvine, Robert Fulghum, Wallace Stegner and Katie Lee. Actors Robert Duvall, Susan Sarandon, John Wayne and most of the crew of the movie Thelma and Louise made their base at Pack Creek Ranch. Physicist Stephen Hawking and other scientists have all enjoyed the unique setting of Pack Creek Ranch. In 1986 Jane & Ken Sleight purchased the ranch. Ken, a legendary river runner, horseback guide was a good friend of late author Edward Abbey and was the real-life inspiration for “Seldom Seen Smith” a character in Abby’s Monkey Wrench Gang. Although the cabins are now all privately owned, Jane and Ken still live there and lost much in the fire. Friends of the Sleights have started a fundraiser to assist the couple. For more information contact Ken Sanders Rare Books, (801) 521-3819, books@kensandersrare books.
The possible destruction of a popular recreation area isn’t the only devastation to come from the Pack Creek fire, even if it is what’s drawing the most eyes to the issue. Homes have been lost, wildlife habitat torched, and the area’s watershed and air quality compromised. Firefighters have been able to make significant progress in containing the fire over the past 24 hours thanks to slightly lower temperatures and higher humidity. There are now over 55 miles of fireline built along the blaze and no injuries have been reported.
There is a current statewide ban on open fires on all state lands and BLM managed lands in Southwestern Utah. Please be sure to adhere to all current fire restrictions as there is extreme fire danger in much of the state. Hopefully firefighters are able to contain the spread and save Utah’s most famous trail system, which is so vital to the surrounding community. We’ll continue to update this story and track how wildfires affect outdoor recreation, the environment and the economy in Utah this fire season.
The two Thai restaurants are a mere .3 miles apart, but even that measure exaggerates the true distance—a few hundred feet as the crow flies—owing to Kimball Junction’s labyrinthine layout. A pair of restaurants serving Thai cuisine in Snyderville Basin would have been unthinkable not long ago where the food scene was dominated by ubiquitous chains like Café Rio and Jimmy Johns, but a shift in Park City’s dining scene is changing expectations. High-end boutique dining and uninspiring chains have long been well represented, but the massive middle encompassing a huge array of cultures, tastes and price points is finally getting the opportunity to make its mark.
Taste of Thai, the latest example of this dining evolution, opened its doors in late May 2021. While a single restaurant opening seems perhaps unremarkable on its face, this particular instance is a great sign of a healthy dining ecosystem. It’s close proximity to Thai So Good, another Thai restaurant which opened roughly 18 months ago, is a feature not a bug. Restaurants appearing to be competitors tend to thrive in each other’s presence, helping create a more vibrant community welcoming further restaurant launches.
That’s exactly what’s happening in Kimball Junction, which is quickly establishing itself as the central dining hub for the greater Park City area as both locals and visitors are priced out of Old Town and its immediate environs. In addition to Taste of Thai and Thai So Good, numerous other independently owned restaurants have made their mark. From the inspired Jamaican cuisine of 11 Hauz to the Mediterranean-influenced fast casual fare at Vessel Kitchen to the intimate Italian dining at Cortona, the area is beginning to boast a legitimately delicious variety of food that isn’t your standard resort-town fare. These aren’t high priced steak house analogs serving elk shank to match the mountain setting—they’re locally-owned restaurants bringing a legitimate cultural depth to a dining culture that’s beginning to mirror the adventurous and varied scene found in Salt Lake City.
We’ve spilled a fair amount of ink, both actual and digital, on many of these restaurants, but what about the newcomer, Taste of Thai? The first impressions have been great. The Panang curry I had was terrific, as was the coconut shrimp appetizer. Their online ordering was incredibly intuitive and easy to use, allowing me to choose a specific pick-up time and pay online. The only disappointment? The vibrant interior made me wish I’d chosen to eat in rather than carry out. In all, it’s an excellent addition to the dining scene on a burgeoning restaurant row in Kimball Junction that already includes 11 Hauz, Maxwells, Hearth and Hill and Bartolo’s.
Real food made by and for real people is proliferating in Snyderville Basin. Yes, there’s still a bit of a Park City surcharge compared to what you’ll find in the Salt Lake Valley, but absent are the eye-watering prices and peak season crowds found on Main Street. Independent restauranteurs are redefining what mountain town dining is in Park City, and the community is better for it.
Stay up-to-date on our favorite restaurants as we get back to dining out this year.
The line gracefullydances across the water as fading sunlight glimmers off its surface. The only sound is that of the river’s perpetual journey. You’re just a pair of waders, a few hand-tied flies and a rod away from an endless stream of grip-and-grin photographs for your Instagram feed. It’s like the veteran fly fisher who shows up to casual occasions with a hat full of used fishhooks told me, “It’s not like you’re going to step out there and have it be some personal A River Runs Through It dream.”
Hold up. I’m not? Fly fishing, it turns out, is a subtle art. It takes a singular focus to fully master this mediative sport.
To do more than stand in the middle of a river futilely casting away with a grip of expensive gear you’ll have to build a foundation of skill and knowledge. Utah is home to remote high-mountain lakes, easy-access rivers perfect for after-work fishing and everything in between, ready to dish up a plethora of trout and bass to fly fishers with some mettle. All you have to do is earn your stripes. Ready to get started?
Gathering Intel
Courtesy Western Rivers Flyfisher
Starting from square one can seem daunting, but amid the internet’s endless detritus is a wealth of information to guide you on the journey to fly fishing nirvana. As anyone who has tried to learn a new skill, from patching drywall to changing a bicycle tire, can attest, there’s an instructional YouTube channel or a podcast for that.
Start with Ascent Fly Fishing’s virtual tools. Ascent’s biologists, guides and committed anglers have devoted a lifetime to tricking fish into biting what you’re casting and in their spare time have written instructional blog posts with titles like “Fly Fishing for Kokanee Salmon 101” and podcasts covering subjects like organizing your fly box.
Fly Fish Food, a full-service retail shop in Orem (Fly Fish Food, 932 N. State St., Orem, 801-615-6055), has an online library of remarkably detailed fly-tying tutorials with video guides, materials lists and the option to shop online.
If you prefer the weight of a book in hand, reach for the Guide to Fly Fishing in Utah by Steve Schmidt.
Take a Lesson
Courtesy Western Rivers Flyfisher
While diligent study is a morally-sound endeavor, few would attest to it being more rewarding than being out on the water in Utah’s beautiful public lands. But without some expertise, you’re likely to spend the whole day staring at your surroundings without hooking a single fish. “Our emphasis is teaching people a foundation of knowledge they can use to pursue fly fishing in any way they choose,” says Steve Schmidt, the owner of Western Rivers Flyfisher who literally wrote the aforementioned book on fly fishing in Utah.
The best starting point, according to Schmidt, is with Western Rivers Flyfisher’s summer Fly Fishing 101 classes (1071 E. 900 South, SLC, 801-521-6324). “These classes give you the basics to start a lifelong journey,” he says. “When I started at nine years old, I had to go to the library to check out books and seek out someone who would teach me to tie knots. We make it much easier than that.”
The four-day classes begin with two evening sessions covering gear and essential flies and get into subjects like how weather affects insects and fish. Day three is an evening session at the park to focus solely on casting instruction. You’ll learn the roll cast and the pick-up/lay-down, along with basic knots and rigging.
Day four is out on the water of the popular and accessible Middle Provo River for the hands-on portion of your instruction. Women’s-only classes are also available as well as guided trips. Guides are there to not only help clients hook some fish but also become better anglers. “Even on our guided trips, we’re trying to teach something people can use in the future,” says Schmidt.
Helpful Fly-Fishing Apps for Utah
Those pocket-sized computers we all tote around are a useful source of on-the-go information. Here are a couple of helpful apps for fly fishing in Utah.
Utah’s very own Mike Lee has reintroduced the Human-Powered Travel in Wilderness Areas Act. The Republican Senator had previously introduced an identical bill in May 2019, but legislators ran out of time to vote on it before the congressional session ended. The bill—S.B. 1686—would revise language in the 1964 Wilderness Act prohibiting the use of motor vehicles, motorized equipment, motorboats and other forms of mechanical transport in wilderness areas. S.B. 1686 only seeks to amend the part regarding “mechanical transport”—which currently includes items such as non-motorized mountain bikes and game carts—such that non-motorized travel in which the sole propulsive power is one or more persons would be allowed at the discretion of local managers of designated wilderness areas.
The bill may sound relatively innocuous but it’s garnering intense scrutiny and inspired debate. The issue of bicycles in wilderness areas has been a touchy subject, especially after some places which were home to mountain established bike trails were included in newly designated wilderness areas, thus closing access for cyclists. Some argue a non-motorized bicycle doesn’t have any more impact than travel on horseback, which is still permitted in wilderness areas. People and organizations opposing that viewpoint argue designated wilderness areas—composing just 2.7% of land in the continental United States—should simply be off limits to bicycles, game carts, strollers, etc. to protect them from excessive human impact.
Sen. Lee’s involvement is certainly complicating debate. Lee has been historically hostile to federal control of land and is a proponent of handing over control to state and local authorities. In Utah, the Bureau of Land Management controls 42% of the state’s total area, which largely protects it from sale to developers or extractive industries. Federally-managed public lands belong equally to all Americans. Lee’s critics point out that transferring land from federal to state and local control would risk taking it from the public for the sole economic benefit of the few who have no historical or other claim to public land (aside from living near it). This bill does not strip federal control over designated wilderness areas, but conservationists worry a slow chipping away at federal regulations and protections in favor of local control is a slippery slope.
It’s important to note the bill would not be a blanket allowance for non-motorized travel in which the sole propulsive power is one or more humans in wilderness areas. It would allow local managers who are still federal land managers to decide on a case-by-case basis whether it’s prudent to allow bikes, game carts and the rest in the designated wilderness areas they oversee.
Sen. Lee on his website promotes the bill with the following language: “The National Wilderness Preservation System was created so that the American people could enjoy our country’s priceless natural areas. This bill would enrich Americans’ enjoyment of the outdoors by expanding recreational opportunities in wilderness areas.” The U.S. Forest Service and the Department of the Interior supported the original bill in 2019 but have yet to update a public stance on the bill’s reintroduction. Some conservation groups including the Sierra Club oppose the bill. Many are caught in the middle, supporting protection of federally managed lands while still wishing to be able to use those lands to bike, hunt and otherwise access those lands in a low-impact manner.
We will update this piece as the legislation moves forward. Read more about the outdoors in Utah.
Funky mountain grooves and the aroma of hot grills and delectable foods fill the air. Local artisans are peddling their wares and nonprofits are raising awareness for a myriad of causes. People are converging on an area to do something fun. Tip your head back. Take a deep breath. The Park Silly Sunday Market is back.
After a lengthy hiatus due to that pesky pandemic that upended normal life for the past year and change, one of Main Street’s signature events is triumphantly returning. If everything goes to plan—I realize that statement probably has you tensely holding your breath—the Silly Market will run Sundays from June 6 to September 26.
Photo courtesy Park Silly Sunday Market
“Hopefully it won’t look too much different than we’ve experienced in the past,” says Kate McChesney, Executive Director of the Silly Market. “In talking to the Summit County Health Department, we need to get our county 70% vaccinated, and we’re also continuing a mask mandate and limiting the number of people within the venue. But, we’re optimistic, flexible and can make adjustments right down to the wire.”
The Silly Market’s absence last year was felt not only by revelers who had to find something else to do on Sundays, but also acutely by all the vendors making food, performing music and selling art and other goods. To help vendors weather the storm during the lost summer of 2020, organizers made an online directory of the small businesses that have been the backbone of the event for many years. That directory is still available on the Silly Market’s website so people can find and support their favorite vendors even on days the Market isn’t taking place.
In 2019, the Silly Market featured more than 150 non-profit organizations, 116 stalls given to local farmers, 210 musicians and buskers, 14 local artists and 14 local Main Street merchants. If that’s not enough variety for you, the Silly Market swaps things around with a unique vendor lineup each week. Come on out and get silly. Just remember to bring a mask along and do your best to maintain social distancing so Park City can keep the party rolling all summer long.
“They just issued an evacuation order for Mt. Aire. Are you guys okay?” The text message inquired. I was more confused than alarmed. Working away at home in my pandemic bubble, I was totally oblivious to the creeping threat hinted at in the text. While I was staring at a screen with a half-eaten PB&J in hand, a wildfire sparked on I-80 by a dragging truck chain was moving its way up Parley’s Canyon towards the neighborhood where I and thousands of others live.
It’s easy to feel insulated from the consequence of wildfires. To many in Utah, the blazes are something that happens in California, a cautionary tale of overzealous development with a callous disregard of causal behavior. Sure, we have a cute little Smokey Bear sign displaying today’s fire danger rating at the bottom of communities like mine in Summit Park, but the devastation of an inferno couldn’t possibly come to our doorstep. Could it?
Only You (& Everybody) Can Help This Fire Season
Firewise landscaping techniques go a long way in helping protect your property and your community. Some of the basics include keeping tall grass away from structures, thinning dense tree stands and keeping all combustible materials like firewood on the outside edge of the defensible space on your property. Learn more about Firewise tips by visiting Utah State University’s Forestry Extension online.
“It’s only a matter of time before we have an incident that takes a lot of homes in Utah,” says Trevor Pollock, an air attack officer who flies in the right seat of a Bureau of Land Management (BLM) AC690 Turbo Commander aircraft. Pollock spent nearly three decades on BLM hotshot crews and happened to work the August 2020 fire in Parley’s Canyon that precipitated the alarming text. Within days the fire was 90% contained, evacuation orders were lifted, and no structures were lost, but that outcome was far from a certainty.
“We were fortunate in several ways. First, we had a lot of airpower accessible quickly. There was a VLAT (Very Large Air Tanker) sitting in Pocatello ready to go and three type-one helicopters (very big) and a type-three BLM helicopters (less big) on the scene in minutes,” Pollock explains. “We also lucked out with the wind. When the fire started about a mile from Mt. Aire, there was an up-canyon wind moving it away from the neighborhood. We got retardant down and then a down-canyon wind shift helped contain the fire back on itself where fuel was already spent. Without those specific circumstances, things could have gone a lot differently over 12 hours.”
Park City—along with much of Summit and Wasatch counties—is considered a wildland-urban interface (WUI), where homes intermingle with undeveloped vegetation. WUI areas are at far greater risk of catastrophic wildfire because human activity can spark wildfires and homes contain a lot of combustible material. Add in the fact that human habitation leads to continual fire suppression efforts, limiting natural fuel reduction and thus increasing fire danger as it accumulates, and it’s easy to see why WUI fires can be so devastating.
Left undisturbed, wildfires will manage forests naturally. Regular fires will burn fuel near the ground without decimating the forest. In the absence of this naturally occurring cycle, a greater continuity of fuels builds up between the ground and tree canopies, leading to a “ladder effect” where the wildfire can climb into treetops and spread with explosive speed. The best available tools to counter this threat are fuel reduction programs.
Photo: Trevor Pollock
Basin Recreation, under the direction of the Summit County Fire Warden and Alpine Forestry, undertook such a program beginning in summer 2020 through spring 2021. Over the summer, crews cleared brush, deadfall and other fuel, stacking it into hundreds of slash piles. Once the ground was covered in snow, they performed controlled burns. The forest’s appearance changed starkly, transformed by raised tree canopies and thinned brush. Some online commentators decried “deforestation,” when, in reality, they were opposing sustainable forest management, which will protect homes and create a healthier environment.
Wildfire threat is only increasing as development continues to expand amid a changing climate. Protecting the community is an ongoing process that involves everyone. “The state of Utah does some amazing work,” Pollock says. “We need the community and the support for the fire and fuels projects that give firefighters the help they need to protect our homes.”
This story was part of Salt Lake magazine’s May/June issue. Read more Park City Life here.
