Tony Gill is the outdoor and Park City editor for Salt Lake Magazine and previously toiled as editor-in-chief of Telemark Skier Magazine. Most of his time ignoring emails is spent aboard an under-geared single-speed on the trails above his home.
I’m writing about the wildfire still burning in Parleys Canyon from Jack’s couch right now. You don’t know Jack, but he’s a nice guy who made me a good cup of coffee this morning. Though I frequently write on couches, I rarely work on Jack’s couch. It’s only because I haven’t been allowed back in my house since Summit County issued an evacuation order on Saturday afternoon.
The Parleys Canyon fire, which was started by a faulty catalytic converter sparking from a car driving up I-80, likely isn’t going to end up destroying any structures, but that’s only thanks to some truly heroic efforts from firefighters and the good fortune of having a fleet of air tankers nearby and ready to drop literal tons of retardant and water. “We were the only show in the west yesterday, so we got everything we wanted. We dropped so much retardant,” air attack officer Trevor Pollock relayed via text. The circumstances of this latest fire are remarkably familiar to Summit County residents, closely resembling last summer’s blaze in Parleys Canyon, which was started by dragging truck chains and forced the evacuation of homes in Mt. Aire.
Things have slowed a bit with all of the great aviation work here on the #ParleysCanyonFire. It will take some time before the hand crews see success holding the fire line. #kmyffslhttps://t.co/xIpL8zhUbu
Despite the optimism surrounding ongoing mitigation efforts, the fire is a stark reminder of the precarious nature of living in wilderness-urban interfaces, especially as climate change exacerbates fire conditions with higher temperatures and frequent droughts. If air resources had been allocated to other ongoing fires or the winds had picked up, it’s entirely possible Summit County residents would be looking at a much different outcome.
Two fires may have sparked in similar areas of Parleys Canyon over the past year, but everywhere from houses in Jeremy Ranch to condos at Deer Valley to cabins outside of Kamas are susceptible to fast-moving wildfires. Communities are trying to prepare with ongoing fuel-reduction projects (Summit Park recently undertook such action with the help of Basin Recreation) among other strategies, but as elevated fire risk becomes the new status quo, everyone is suffering from the anxiety and aftermath of wildfires.
8,000 homes in Summit Park and Pinebrook were evacuated on short notice, and not everybody has a spare bedroom to stay in and a convenient Plan B for work and childcare. Nor is it particularly pleasant for anyone to decide which items are important enough to be worthy of valuable trunk space while leaving a residence behind on short notice.
If all goes well, officials are hoping to lift the evacuation orders sometime on Tuesday. A 72-hour inconvenience isn’t much for me to complain about while a phalanx of firefighters digs fire line below a cavalcade of airplanes and helicopters delivering water and retardant. It’s an incalculable amount of public resources—hooray for FEMA funding— working to protect our neighborhood, so mostly all we feel is gratitude. For now, my family and I are splitting time between some family and friends trying to spread out the burden of making extra cups of coffee for me while pretending my two-year-old’s antics are adorable, not irritating. At least she thinks the sleepovers are pretty fun.
Check out Firewise resources here and here for more information about how to prepare for and prevent wildfires. Remember to keep your vehicles in good working order and off dry vegetation.
Cranes over the horizon and construction fences lining streets tell the story. Construction and development in Park City are coming, whether anyone likes it or not. A spate of projects are in the queue, from the brand new Mayflower Mountain Resort on U.S. 40 to the upcoming Arts and Culture District in Prospector to the development of Deer Valley lots at Snow Park. But none has inspired heated debate quite like the proposed development of the Park City base area. Its scope and location in Old Town mean it will indelibly impact the character of the community, and after a long, contentious process it seems the Park City Planning Commission will make a decision on the project by year’s end.
The 10-acre area slated for development is currently home to the parking lots at the base of Park City Resort. The former owner of Park City Mountain Resort (PCMR) acquired development rights to the area decades ago in the 1990s, which were subsequently inherited by Vail Resorts when they acquired the resort in 2014. Vail has since agreed to sell the development to Provo-based firm PEG Companies, but the deal will not be finalized until after the Planning Commission’s vote. The proposal as currently constituted calls for a hotel, residences, restaurants, retail shops and above grade parking garages, which would radically alter the base area.
Vail Resorts wrote a letter supporting the project’s approval to the Planning Commission in June, commending PEG for addressing transit and traffic issues in the proposal. Public comments, to the contrary, have been largely negative throughout discussions about the project. Local opposition group the Responsible Resort Area Development Coalition has outlined opposition to many details of the project regarding everything from reduced parking to increased neighborhood traffic to the height of buildings, which they contend is not aligned with the earlier approval from the 1990s.
Planning Commissioner John Phillips mentioned during the latest round of discussions the application was in its final stages after more than a year of consideration. It’s expected the Planning Commission will begin drafting documentation for their decision ahead of a vote later this fall. Thus far commissioners have given no indication of how they plan to vote on the project, but with the unstoppable force of development meeting the immovable object of local opposition it remains certain debate in the community isn’t about to fade.
We will follow this story as the Planning Commission nears a decision.
The breeze flowing through my helmet vents reminds me that not everything was bad during those decidedly not-halcyon days of pandemic past. Many things, of course, were indeed quite awful, but not the reclaimed sense of freedom. Amid a perpetual cycle of takeout meals, questionable hygiene and missing puzzle pieces in isolation, the sense of wonder I found while rolling outside on two wheels was remarkable. I wasn’t alone.
Perhaps not since Karl Von Drais created the “velocipede” or “hobby horse” in 1817 has the bicycle seen such enthusiasm. Cycling’s bumper year was evident everywhere from barren bike shop shelves devoid of inventory to packed trailheads to the countless bike racks adorning every Outback and Tacoma in sight. Already a hotbed of bike activity, Utah is riding the cycling wave this summer, greeting riders with open roads and twisting ribbons of dirt. Saddle up.
Rubber Meets the Road
Antelope Island: The ride’s so scenic it’s been used as a frequent venue for the Tour of Utah; Photo by Jonathan Devich/epicimages.us
A lot of us grabbed those new bikes and tore around the streets exploring our neighborhoods like those kids in Stranger Things. It was great fun getting to know every nook, cranny and crack on the pavement, but it’s time to cover some miles through Utah’s dramatic landscapes with a few of our favorite road rides. No matter the fitness level or preferred geologic venue, there’s something for everyone.
Start with a classic ride on Antelope Island near SLC. Ditch the car at Centennial Park in Syracuse and ride across the causeway to the state park. The 47-mile out-and-back features a consistently flat grade and impeccable pavement quality, from which riders can enjoy gorgeous views of the Great Salt Lake and wildlife sightings of bison, pronghorn antelope and bighorn sheep.
As the weather heats up during the dog days, head northeast to Flaming Gorge for some cooler temps at higher elevations. This 68-mile out-and-back ride starts at another Centennial Park, this one in the tiny town of Manila on 200 West. Head South on S.R. 44 through stunning scenery in the Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area before connecting to U.S. 191 at mile 28 and the Flaming Gorge Dam at mile 34. Reverse the route and finish with a beverage at Flaming Gorge Brewing Company. You’ll have earned it.
For a short, sweet and scenic southern cruise, roll up to Capitol Reef National Park. From the Visitor Center, cyclists can enter the park for just $3 and ride along the eight-mile Scenic Drive through the park. Cool off in the shade in Fruita, the historic community founded by Mormon settlers in the 1800s and stand in awe of unique 240-million-year-old Moenkopi rock formations. At just 16 total miles, this out-and-back ride is short enough to be done early in the morning or late in the evening when temperatures are (relatively) cooler.
Catch a Lift
Deer Valley; Courtesy Deer Valley
Enough with the leg-churning, calorie-burning road rides already. Across Utah, a ski-like culture of list-assisted, gravity-fueled mountain biking has taken hold. Gravity cycling is deeply rooted in history here, from the elite NORBA National downhill races at Deer Valley to the pioneering Red Bull Rampage competition near Virgin, but now you don’t need to be a pro-level daredevil to enjoy it.
Resorts throughout the state are spinning lifts like it’s January in July, some with standout bike parks offering expert-level downhill tracks and beginner-friendly flow trails. Deer Valley (2250 Deer Valley Dr., Park City, 435-649-1000) has the famed rough racecourses of yore like NCS along with smooth, berm-filled trails like Holy Roller. Woodward Park City (Woodward Park City: 3863 Kilby Rd., Park City, 435-658-2648) has trails and features ranging from entertainingly benign on Easy Rider to legitimately gargantuan on Spiral Jetty. Both resorts have progression-friendly instruction available as well. Lift access starts at about $60 for a full day.
If chasing a bucket-list mountain bike experience, consider a helicopter bump to the high country with Whisper Ridge (4776 E. 2600 North, Eden, 801-876-4664). Starting at $200 per person, riders are whisked in a whirlybird over 3,000 vertical feet to the top of Whisper Ridge’s private mountain bike trails. With so few people accessing the terrain, riders can expect pristine conditions with tacky dirt devoid of blown-out corners and braking bumps. The helicopter ride alone is worth the price of admission. Shredding high-mountain terrain above Eden with the only heli-bike operation in the lower 48 is the icing on the cake.
Local Rigs for Local Rides
Whether you’re auditioning for a spot in next year’s Tour of Utah or are an aspiring gravity fiend, Lindon-based bike company Fezzari(520 N. Geneva Rd., Lindon, 801-471-0440,) has your next ride. A direct-to consumer online sales model means big savings on your end, while 23-point custom setup ensures a dialed fit out of the box.
Mile Muncher
Empire
Named for the epic road ride up Empire Canyon, the Empire is a blazing fast road bike that’s tuned for comfort mile after mile. Starting at $1,800.
Rowdy Rig
La Sal Peak
With 150 mm of real travel, a 170-mm fork, 29-inch wheels and progressive geometry, the La Sal Peak has your back on the fastest, roughest descents you can find. Starting at $3,600.
Utah local Nathaniel Coleman won the silver medal in the sport climbing combined event at the Tokyo Olympics. The Murray High School graduate won the bouldering portion of the competition, a result which when combined with a fifth in lead climbing and a sixth in speed climbing—while earning a personal best time—was enough to push him into second overall. Coleman excelled against some incredible athletes such as Adam Ondra of the Czech Republic, who is often regarded as the greatest male climber in history.
The 24-year-old Coleman is no stranger to climbing success. He won three straight USA Climbing National Championships in bouldering in addition to notching a first ascent on one of the hardest boulder problems on earth, The Grand Illusion, a V16 in Little Cottonwood Canyon. Still, there is no public stage quite like the Olympics, and Coleman thrived under the pressure.
The sport climbing combined event features three different disciplines, each of which rewards climbers for excelling at a distinct aspect of the sport. The speed climbing portion tests explosiveness as climbers ascend a relatively easy—for them, anyhow—climbing route. The bouldering competition is the ultimate test of strength and power on an exceedingly difficult yet short route without using a rope. The lead climbing discipline rewards climbers who have a strong mixture of power and endurance as they ascend a challenging, longer route while using a rope for protection. The combination of skills required over the competition rewards a well-rounded climber, and nobody other than 18-year-old Alberto Ginés López of Spain was able to best Coleman.
While Utahns have traditionally found success at the Winter Olympics, Coleman, along with mountain biker Haley Batten, is proving Beehive State locals can dominate on the world stage in warm weather mountain sports as well. Check out highlights of Coleman competing in Tokyo here and watch him crush Little Cottonwood granite on one of the planet’s most difficult climbs in the video below.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1d0s162f30
Check out more outdoor and sports coverage as the Olympics continue.
“The ball really does fly farther at elevation,” I thought as the tiny white sphere violently hooked from view. Golfing in the mountains comes with certain baked-in hazards, like the precipitous declivity that claimed my repurposed range ball. Best bring a couple of spares when hitting the links around here. Park City is home to some of the most outrageously expensive and exclusive golf courses in the world. Thankfully, it also has some wonderful and quirky public courses available to those of us who don’t travel on a personal private jet. We tore it up on the fairways, greens and frequently the rough to break down our favorites and even consulted with a local caddy to get an expert’s opinion.
Who It’s For: Players chipping away at their handicap, not the ball stuck in the bunker.
Highlights: Two 18-hole courses (Canyon and Lake), public driving range, challenging and dramatic features on Lake Course
Après: The Sandwedge Café (7603 E. Mt. Dell Golf Rd., SLC), located in the same building as the pro shop, has affordable sandwiches and beers.
Caddy’s Take: “It’s one of the only public courses with a driving range in the area, and it’s significantly tougher than PC Muni. There are more serious golfers working on their games there.”
Who It’s For: Players who want to infuse some mountain climbing into their golf game.
Highlights: Unique setting, 300-foot elevation change on hole 10, the tricky island green on 18
Après: Drafts Burger Bar (3000 Canyons Resort Dr., Park City) in Canyons Village has delicious monster burgers and 20 beers on tap.
Caddy’s Take: “It’s kind of an insane place to play golf because it’s very much on the side of a cliff. The massive elevation change on some holes makes for some memorable shots, though.”
Who It’s For: Players who are too busy taking in the views to keep track of tee shots.
Highlights: Two distinct 18-hole courses (Lake and Mountain), incredible scenery, cool temperatures
Après: Midway Mercantile (99 E. Main St., Midway) has an excellent patio and even better farm-to-table menu.
Caddy’s Take: “It’s hard to get too upset about shanking one into the bunker when the scenery is as good as it is underneath those massive peaks in Midway.”
Cacophonies are common on Main Street. At least they used to be before a pandemic upended society. Still, the Kimball Arts Festival feels different. A succession of tents stretches to Old Town, packed with creative renderings ranging from the sublime to the strange. The sound from live music stages with their accompanying beer gardens rises above the murmuring din of a roiling sea of art admirers. After taking a hiatus in 2020, the Kimball Arts Festival is returning to Park City this summer from Aug. 6–8.
The event is a beautiful distillation of what can happen when the town’s disparate personalities all get together to mingle. The festival’s welcome return will draw visiting aficionados, second homeowners, lifties on summer break and everyone in between to share in the spirit brought by more than 200 artists from around the world. One of Park City’s more egalitarian occasions lets us pick up an impressionist sculpture or a mountain scape oil painting worth thousands and scour the stalls for bargain-priced reprints.
The return of the Kimball’s signature event, and single biggest fundraiser, isn’t the only noteworthy news to come from Kimball this year. Doors opened this spring at the new home of the Kimball Art Center at the YARD on Kearns Blvd. The 9,000-square-foot reimagined warehouse features four gallery spaces, four event spaces and an event café space. For the past five years, the Art Center’s home has been in a temporary location on Kearns after spending nearly four decades in the iconic Ely Garage on the corner of Heber Ave. and Park Ave.
The latest location is yet another temporary home on the way to the Kimball Art Center’s ultimate destination within the upcoming and still-being-planned Arts and Culture District. With an ambiguous timeline for completion, staff envisions the Kimball’s location at the YARD an important step towards developing the permanent epicenter for art in Park City.
Who Are the Artists?
The roughly 200 artists, representing 13 visual arts disciplines, at the Kimball Arts Festival are chosen through a blind jury selection process from more than 1,000 entrants. Artists accepted to last year’s Virtual Arts Festival were given the option to defer to this year’s in-person event.
1251 Kearns Blvd., 435-649-8882
Find full event details and information about upcoming exhibitions and eventsonKimball’s website. Read more on the latest in arts and entertainment in Utah.
Utah athlete Haley Batten earned a hard-fought top-10 finish in the Olympic women’s cross-country mountain bike race. The Park City native battled through difficult conditions to finish in ninth after Typhoon Nepartak turned the already technical Izu course into an extremely slick maze of steep, muddy singletrack and rocky obstacles. Batten, who honed her skills on the trails around Park City, was up to the task, riding a clean race that saw her move up the ranks as pre-race favorites like Pauline Ferrand-Prevot were felled by the challenging track.
Batten entered the Tokyo Games with medal aspirations after a blistering start to the UCI World Cup season, which included a second place at the Nové Mesto XCO race in May and a third place at the season opener in Albstadt, Germany. Still, the top-10 result is a wonderful accomplishment for the 22-year-old who is racing her first year in the elite ranks. Batten found herself in 13th position during the middle portion of the race before some deft riding shot her up the board.
The Izu course features notably few wide sections where riders can easily pass other competitors. This course character was exacerbated when extreme weather necessitated last-minute track changes including some rerouted technical sections within the multi-line rock gardens and shortening the race by one lap from six to five. That Batten was able to consistently overtake competitors as the race progressed is a testament to her technical abilities on the bike.
“Some of the climbs had some really steep corners that, after this rain, were really slick. I think it was hard to know if I should get off and run, or if I should try and ride it,” Batten told Velo News after the race. “That was definitely the trickiest trying to stay in the zone in your flow, but also trying to give as much as you can, but sometimes the course just throws a curveball.”
Jolanda Neff took gold and led a Swiss sweep of the medals. The 2017 Cross Country World Champion is known for having the strongest technical skills in the sport, and it showed as she rode to victory.
Now that the race is over, Batten can spend a few precious moments to savor the Olympic experience before turning her attention to the remainder of the UCI World Cup Calendar with upcoming races in Lenzerheide, Switzerland and Showshoe, West Virginia back home in the USA. There’s also the small matter of the World Championships in Val di Sole, Italy on Aug. 25 where Batten will continue to make Park City proud while representing the United States on the world stage.
Check out more outdoor and sports coverage as the Olympics continue.
The ridgeline cut a toothy silhouette across the eastern sky. The stillness in the air, a serene contrast to the dramatic peaks piercing the horizon, was undercut only by the heartbeat pounding in my chest. The Buffalo Drop loomed. On the previous lap I’d taken the cheater line around the aptly-named feature. The rock roll feels as though you’re jumping a mountain bike into a steep landing off the back of the largest bison imaginable. My ego couldn’t stomach skipping it again. It wasn’t that large. Not compared to the gargantuan Tetons I was gaping at, anyway.
After a few deep breaths while pretending the impressive vista, rather than lurking dread, was precipitating my delay, I conquered the precipice through some combination of luck and advanced engineering. The modern mountain bike is a wonderful thing, indeed. The Buffalo Drop is a notable centerpiece of Grand Targhee’s mountain bike park (3330 Ski Hill Rd., Alta, Wyo., 307-353-2300) but just one of an expanding network of trails crisscrossing down the mountain. Chunky descents with cascading rock rolls through forested slopes and ultra-smooth sweeping berms through alpine meadows can be found in equal measure. Complete beginner or seasoned expert, Targhee’s bike park has something for any rider. And everyone can enjoy the views.
Grand Targhee—technically in Wyoming but just a stone’s throw from its burgeoning mountain town base in Driggs, Idaho—is best known for the walloping winter storms that frequently deposit far more snow on its slopes than its better-known counterpart on the lee side of the range, Jackson Hole, receives. The resort, and surrounding community in Teton Valley, is fast making a name for itself as a summer destination in its own right. Hop in the car and find out for yourself. The quiet side might just be the grander side of the Tetons.
Can You Driggs It?
Teton Valley has long been something of an hidden gem in the Gem State. It’s in part due to flashier locales in and adjacent to the state, like Sun Valley and Jackson Hole, absorbing broader attention. Teton Valley is gradually transforming from an agricultural and ranching community into one built on recreational tourism. It’s part of a long evolution of the area, the ancestral lands of the Shoshone-Bannock and Northern Paiute Indian tribes, which, in typical American fashion, has a checkered history marked by calamity and reinvention. The 19th Century Rocky Mountain Rendezvous, an annual gathering organized by fur trading companies, has been replaced with the Wydaho Rendezvous, a bike festival hosted by Grand Targhee each summer. The former abandoned the area following the infamous battle of Pierre’s Hole in 1832. The latter, thankfully, is famous for the “sloshie,” a delightful frozen boozy concoction at the Trap Bar(3330 Ski Hill Rd., Alta, Wyo.). Times change, but the spirit of exploration and community has undeniably carried over on the western slope of the Tetons.
Teton Valley, near Driggs; Photo courtesy Idaho Tourism
Where to Play
Exploring Teton Valley doesn’t necessitate an adrenaline rush. As we found, those incredible mountain vistas are often best enjoyed from a serene perch while literally floating. An early-morning wake-up call is worth it for a ride with Elevated Ballooning(98 E. Little Ave., Driggs, 208-709-0777). Upon returning to earth, we opted for another type of float, this time down the Teton River. Teton River Supply(107 W. Bates Rd., Driggs, 208-534-8784) rents a variety of inflatable vessels from kayaks to stand up paddleboards to canoes starting at just $45 per day and will even arrange a complimentary shuttle from the shop in Driggs to the put-in and take-out of your choice. The snaking journey down the Teton River is languid, relaxed and perfect for soaking in those mountain views.
Eager to more intimately explore the stunning terrain of the Targhee National Forest, we headed out for a hike the following morning. For a quick family-friendly jaunt, we went to the Sheep Bridge Trail, a roughly five-mile out-and-back that follows Teton Creek. For a far more adventurous and arduous undertaking, head up to Table Mountain. On the trek you’ll have remarkable views of the Tetons as well as Mount Owen and Teewinot Mountain.
Back from the trail, it was time to wind down with some tunes. Every Thursday night through August 12, the Teton Valley Foundation hosts Music on Main at the Victor City Park(80 N. Main St., Victor). Some of the best musical acts from all over the country hit the stage from 6 p.m. until 10 p.m. Local food vendors serve up a variety of wonderful cuisine to help keep the audience’s energy high, and beer, wine and hard seltzer sales help fund the Teton Valley Foundation.
Where to Eat and Drink
A strong craft beverage culture permeates Teton Valley, so a local brewery tour is on tap. Start by renting a hybrid cruiser bike from Peaked Sports(70 E. Little Ave., Driggs, 208-354-2354) and take an eight-mile scenic ride on the rail trail to Victor for a pint at Grand Teton Brewing(430 Old Jackson Hwy., Victor, 888-899-1656) and then Wildlife Brewing Company(145 S Main St., Victor, 208-787-2623). For something a little different, stop in at Highpoint Cider(7565 Lupine Ln., Victor, 307-264-2151) before heading back down the path to Driggs for a nightcap and some appetizers at Citizen 33 Brewery(364 N. Main St., Driggs, 208-354-207).
A liquid diet won’t cut it when you’re in the mountains all day, and there’s some incredible food options throughout Teton Valley. Start your day with a gourmet doughnut from Yeti’s Post(98 E. Little Ave., Driggs, 208-354-1444) or a breakfast sandwich from Victor Valley Market(5 S. Main St., Victor, 208-787-2230), where you can win a massive cookie if you correctly answer the day’s trivia question. For a midday refuel, check out Big Hole BBQ(22 W. Center St., Victor, 208-270-9919) for brisket and smoked wings or to Captain Ron’s Smokehouse(415 Main St., Driggs, 307-690-1298) for a burger with pimento cheese and bacon.
Wrap things up in the evening with a Neapolitan-style pie from Tatanka Tavern(18 N. Main St., Driggs, 208-227-8744). The Fungus Amongus with garlic oil and roasted mushrooms is a delight. For something a bit spicier, stop in at the legendary Teton Thai(18 N., Main St., Driggs, 208-787-8424) for authentic Thai cuisine—the Gang Karee Beef Curry is a favorite—and a local beverage from the in-house brewery. Try the Money Penny British Pale Ale.
Where to Stay
Glamping right at the base of Teton Pass at Moose Creek Ranch(2733 E. 10800 South, Victor, 208-510-0216) really fits the vibe of Teton Valley better than a luxury hotel. Deluxe tents, cabins and even customized airstreams make for a variety of glamping options depending on how rustic you want to get. Rates start at $129 per night.
Located on the bank of the Teton River, Teton Valley Lodge (3733 Adams Rd., Driggs, 208-354-2386) is an all-inclusive fishing resort in the heart of Teton Valley with 25 fishable sections of river and excellent guides—not to mention charming—private one, two and three-bedroom cabins and great food. A variety of all-inclusive packages and separate day-trip activities are available.
Teton Teepee Lodge(440 W. Alta Ski Hill Rd., Alta, Wyo., 307-353-1000) is just over the border in Alta, Wyo., a few miles from Driggs. This lodge is a unique, affordable basecamp, with 18 rooms around circular common area with a fireplace. Rooms start at $129.
ROAD TRIP 1
Rockhound Road Trip
Start: City of Rocks / End: Riggins
Whether you’re a rock climber, an avid hiker, a geology enthusiast or simply enjoy some dramatic mountain views along the way, Idaho’s geology has transformed the landscape into an incredible playground.
Rock climbing at Castle Rocks State Park; Photo courtesy Idaho Tourism
1. City of Rocks National Reserve
On the southern Idaho border, the surreal spires rising above the City of Rocks are composed of uniquely pocketed granite. It’s a mecca for rock climbers, but even the less vertically inclined can enjoy the history of Camp and Register Rocks, where hundreds of 19th-century signatures were written in axle grease by travelers on the California Trail.
2. Castle Rocks State Park
Sharing a ranger station with the City of Rocks, Castle Rocks has a wealth of mountain biking and horseback riding trails. You can also sign up for guided rock-climbing trips on the many granite routes throughout the park.
Hiking Craters of the Moon National Monument & Preserve; Photo courtesy Idaho Tourism
3. Craters of the Moon National Monument
750,000 acres near Arco are covered in basaltic lava from a volcanic eruption thousands of years ago. Hulking cinder buttes and snaking lava tubes compose the dreamlike landscape. Survey the scenery from Devil’s Orchard and explore the swirling lava tubes of the Caves Trail.
4. Land of the Yankee Fork State Park
Head up the Salmon River Scenic Byway to the Land of the Yankee Fork State Park. The scattered collection of gold-mining era ghost towns—Bonanza and the wonderfully-restored Custer—are a portal to a bygone time.
Stand up paddleboarding at Redfish Lake with Sawtooth Mountains in background near Stanley, Idaho; Courtesy Idaho Tourism
5. Stanley and Redfish Lake
The Sawtooth Mountains loom above the quaint downtown of Stanley. The mountains offer incredible hiking opportunities but are perhaps best enjoyed from a kayak on nearby Redfish Lake where the toothy peaks reflect off the water’s surface.
6. Hells Canyon
West of the ski town of McCall is Hells Canyon, a nearly 8,000-foot-deep gorge cut by the Snake River through a volcanic basalt plateau. You can explore the deepest river gorge in North America on a jet boat tour with River Adventures in Riggins.
ROAD TRIP 2
Northern Idaho Wine Country Tour
Start: Lewiston / End: Sandpoint
Northern Idaho isn’t all about rock climbing, hiking and mountain biking. There’s a more relaxed side of the panhandle in wine country. Bring a corkscrew and get ready to tip your glass with the Gem State’s finest winemakers.
Lindsay Creek Vineyards; Courtesy Idaho Tourism
1. Lewiston
Idaho winemaking originated in the Lewis-Clark Valley in the 1870s with French immigrant Louis Desol. It remains the heart of Idaho wine country today and was named the state’s newest American Viticultural Area. A host of outstanding wineries, including Clearwater Canyon Cellars—the gorgeous patio overlooks the Syrah grapes, so give that a try for a multi-sensory meta tasting—Lindsay Creek Vineyards and Vine 46.
2. Moscow
From Lewiston head to Moscow, a surprisingly lively town that’s home to the University of Idaho and numerous winemakers. Stop in for a sampling at the Colter’s Creek tasting room in Moscow or visit their other location just down the road in Juliaetta to try the eponymous Juliaetta Rosè. The Juliaetta location is situated right on Potlatch Creek, formerly named Colter’s Creek (after the famous scout John Colter who was part of the Lewis and Clark expedition through the area in the early 19th century).
3. Coeur d’Alene
Spend your morning on the water in search of some classic summer fun before heading to Coeur d’Alene Cellars. In the tasting room—nicknamed Barrel Room No. 6—try a few favorite vintages along with some hors d’oeuvres like the meat and cheese board. Come on a Saturday evening for some live music to accompany your tasting.
4. Sandpoint
Sandpoint’s historic downtown winemakers stick to tradition. The Pend d’Oreille Winery uses classic French winemaking methods in a restored building featuring original brick walls. The Cabernet Franc pairs well with the traditional French vibe, as well as with the hand-tossed pizzas.
ROAD TRIP 3
Hot Springs, History & Watering Holes
Start: Boise / End: Lowman
Idaho has a rich western tradition rooted in exploration and the outdoors. Ramble through the state’s remarkable landscapes to discover mountains, hot springs and plenty of history along the way.
Start your trip in the Gem State’s capital. Explore the network of trails, crisscrossing the town’s foothills, aboard a mountain bike. After that, enjoy a beverage from one of Boise’s dozens of local breweries. You can’t leave without trying the sour and barrel-aged brews from Barbarian.
Sand boarding, Bruneau Dunes State Park; Courtesy Idaho Tourism
2. Bruneau Dunes State Park
Climb the sandy peaks of Bruneau Dunes State Park and catch a stunning sunset while you’re at it. Created in part by the Bonneville Flood during the last ice age, the dunes uniquely form from the center of the basin, which has acted as a natural trap for 12,000 years.
3. Banbury Hot Springs and Blue Heart Springs
Start with a soak in the soothing, natural Banbury Hot Springs. After spending the night, rent a kayak and paddle to Blue Heart Springs, a natural oasis with crystal clear, Caribbean blue water surrounded by lava rock walls. You won’t believe you’re still in Idaho.
4. Sun Valley
Sun Valley needs little introduction, but the home of the world’s first chairlift is an incredible summer destination, too. Go for a soak in Frenchman’s Bend Hot Springs, enjoy some fly-fishing with Silver Creek Outfitters along the legendary Silver Creek and wrap it up with some prime rib from the famous Pioneer Saloon and a beer from Grumpy’s in downtown Ketchum.
5. Galena Lodge
Head north from Ketchum to the Galena Lodge. Hike and mountain bike on the nearby trails through the remote, scenic wilderness before spending the night at one of the Lodge’s fully furnished yurts. Just bring your own food to cook.
6. Pine Flats Hot Springs
Head back towards Boise if you plan to finish where you started, but spend a final night at the Pine Flats Campground and Hot Springs. A series of hot springs line the nearby Payette River, where a warm, relaxing soak comes with incredible mountain views near Lowman.
ROAD TRIP 4
Golfer’s Delight
Start: Coeur d’Alene / End: Bear Lake
Don’t leave home without the crooked sticks because Idaho is a paradise for golfers. World-class courses with unique layouts in incredible settings are scattered throughout the state. Tee it up and take your best shot.
Kick-off your golf journey with a one-of-a-kind experience at the Coeur d’Alene Resort Golf Course. The movable, floating island green on 14—the only one of its kind in the world—requires a boat to reach and hides 11 feet of its structure below the water’s surface.
2. Jug Mountain Ranch
Jug Mountain Ranch was built to showcase Idaho’s natural beauty with the 18-hole course integrating the terrain, water and trees into its design. In addition to renowned aesthetics, Jug Mountain Ranch is noted for offering unbeatable value.
3. Warm Springs Golf Course
A spacious, 18-hole championship course is just minutes from downtown Boise at Warm Springs. The well-shaded course is along the banks of the scenic Boise River and is a perfect place to spend the morning before venturing into Idaho’s cultural epicenter.
4. Sun Valley Resort Golf Courses
Talk about options. Sun Valley Resort near Ketchum has three courses—Trail Creek, White Clouds and Elkhorn—with 45 holes and an endless supply of mountain vistas. You can even catch a glimpse of Ernest Hemingway’s Idahome while hacking it up at White Clouds.
Water trampoline, Bear Lake State Park; Courtesy Idaho Tourism
5. Bear Lake West Golf Course
Not every day on the links needs to be hoity-toity and exclusive. Sometimes you just want to hit it around for a half-day in a beautiful place. The nine-hole Bear Lake West Golf Course is the perfect place to do just that while leaving enough time to explore other recreation Bear Lake has to offer.
For more travel ideas, head to visitidaho.org. This feature is part of Salt Lake magazine’s 2021 Travel Series. Read our road trips to Colorado and Wyoming.
“So that’s what 41 feet looks like,” I thought to myself. I took a deep breath to gather my nerve, jumped up and out from the platform and watched the water come rushing up towards my feet before straightening up and extending for a perfect entry. Kind of. Well, not even really kind of, but I plunged into the pool without feeling like I’d splattered on concrete. Good enough for who it’s for, at least. The 12.5-meter platform I’d just plummeted from was the highest the public is allowed to jump from at the High Dive Experience at the Utah Olympic Park (UOP) in Park City, and I was secretly happy they wouldn’t let me go any higher.
“That was much better,” Owen Weymouth, said from the side of the pool while flashing a thumbs up. Weymouth was lying. It was perhaps marginally better, but I’m quite certain the professional high diver for Red Bull and the British National Team giving me tips would be unimpressed by anything I could ever do off a platform. Nevertheless, I appreciated the positive feedback along with the instruction that kept me from imitating a bug hitting the windshield.
I’m not a complete stranger to dropping from heights. Like many of you probably did, I sketchily leapt from the rim of janky rock quarries after a couple beverages during my younger days, but the romanticized notion of risk-taking fades when you’re rapidly aging with a kid at home. I was thrilled at the opportunity to take the leap while trading in the DIY aesthetic for some lifeguards on the side in case I really messed up.
https://youtu.be/BhfindRgTIY
The High Diving Experience is a one-of-a-kind chance for regular folks like me to jump from towering platforms under safe, controlled circumstances. During a 90-minute session, participants learn the basics to safely jump into the water. Divers start from a three-meter platform, then move through five, seven and a half, 10—that’s the Olympic high diving standard—and ultimately 12.5-meter platforms after performing two successful jumps at each interval. Having world-class athletes like Weymouth on hand giving feedback helps divers improve a touch each time while providing a bit of a carrot to at least act unafraid. Professional high divers are psychotically talented and unintimidated by heights—Weymouth does multiple flipping twists from the 27.5-meter (that’s 90 feet) platform while starting from a handstand—so it’s best to act cool when they’re watching you jump.
Did I feel any apprehension while climbing the towering scaffolding structure knowing I was going to jump off when there was a perfectly good staircase I was already using? Probably, but I was going to bury that fear way down. And when a wayward thought of hesitation snuck in, it was easy to catch inspiration from seeing freestyle skiers toss implausibly technical tricks off the ramps at the other end of the pool. The UOP is filled with all manner of world-class aerialist athletes at any given time, so even the fearless, kinesthetically-aware among you will find a welcome bit of awe and something to aspire to while there.
The High Diving Institute has found a perfect partner with the UOP. CEO Ellie Smart—a professional high diver herself—worked tirelessly to find the right spot to host a world-class facility so high divers in the United States could train. UOP, which already has many ties to Olympic athletes, was a natural fit as high diving gains in popularity and pushes for future Olympic inclusion. The 10-meter platform is already part of the Games, but the High Diving Institute has their sights set higher. The women compete from 20-meter platforms and the men from 27-meter platforms. Both heights are absurd, especially when you’re standing on the edge looking down. Just walking out to the end of the 27-meter platform was enough. I was glad they cut me off at 12.5 meters, which is still higher than any other platform for public participation in the country.
The author, very happy he isn’t about to jump from 90 feet.
You can sign up for the High Dive Experience online. All it takes is $85, a couple of waivers, and a willingness to take the leap. There are very few places on earth you get to feel like a kid again while getting coaching from world-class athletes. If you want to take things up a notch, you can join a high-dive camp to push your skills, learn some flips and really get after it. Three-day camps start at $295 per person, and five-day camps start at $425. The experience and camps are suitable for all skill levels and ages as long as you’re eight or over. No excuses. Visit the High Diving Institute website for full details.
Ribbons of dirt are etched across the mountainsides in every direction. Hundreds of miles of trails ranging from rough vestiges of mining history to immaculately-manicured, purpose-built singletrack stretch as far as the eye can see. The interconnected web is the heart of Park City’s identity, as integral to the town’s culture as the famed powder coating the ski runs each winter. But, as outdoor recreation booms, the town’s iconic trail system is in danger of being loved to death. Protection requires resources and energy, and perhaps no organization has taken on a larger share of the responsibility than Mountain Trails Foundation.
“We see about 500,000 user days each year just in Round Valley,” says Charlie Sturgis, who served as the executive director of Mountain Trails for 11 years before stepping down earlier this summer. “That’s a pretty scary number to think about in the context of sustainability.” Round Valley trails compose only a fraction of the more than 200 miles of trails managed and maintained by Mountain Trails. The nonprofit does so with a full-time staff of just six, which ramps up to 11 over the summer. To say Mountain Trails does a lot with a little is an understatement, especially as pressure on available resources is only becoming more acute.
Meet the New Boss
New Mountain Trails Foundation executive director Lora Smith is no stranger to Park City trails. An 18-year resident of Summit County, Smith has served as the Mountain Trails Foundation’s Development and Resource Director since 2012 and is a passionate trail runner, mountain biker and cross-country skier. She was chosen from a pool of more than 30 applicants to help Mountain Trails Foundation build a sustainable future for Park City trails from the organization’s expansive new facility on Highland Drive.
Census figures released in April detailed population growth in Utah of 18.4% over the past decade, the highest in the nation. When coupled with rebounding travel figures amid the fading pandemic and throngs of newly minted outdoor enthusiasts of all types—hikers, dog walkers, trail runners and mountain bikers—it’s easy to see how crucial a sustainable, holistic trails plan is to protect the future. Issues including overcrowded parking, enhanced trail erosion and increased user conflict are all on the rise as more people frequent the trail system, and Mountain Trails is working tirelessly to address them.
It starts with management by design, or put another way, the idea that not all trails should be created equally. Various strategies come into play, including building trails that are particularly suited to one activity over another. A hiking trail, for example, can utilize steeper, tighter switchbacks in an area with great views—a momentum-sapping design ill-suited for mountain biking. Bike trails, on the other hand, benefit from broader sweeping turns and longer sightlines. “We always try to maximize our resources,” Sturgis says. “A multi-use, multi-directional trail that’s uphill only for bikes accommodates a lot of different users, while downhill-only bike trails work really well to reduce user conflict.”
Expect to see these strategies employed in new development this summer. The Big Easy Trail is part of a multi-year plan to complete a singletrack circumnavigation of Round Valley linked by directional trails to better manage crowds. A new trail on Treasure Hill connecting Lowell Ave. to Mid Mountain will be a multi-use trail that’s directional uphill for bikes, alleviating pressure on popular routes like Jenny’s, Armstrong and Spiro.
Downhill-only bike trails work really well to reduce user conflict.
Charlie Sturgis
Design alone isn’t a panacea, however, so Mountain Trails is making a push to educate users. “We’re being more vocal about basic etiquette of the trail, whether that’s not riding or hiking in the mud or being aware of your speed and in control on multi-directional trails. And we’re trying to get the industry, including manufacturers, to help communicate with new users who buy their products,” Sturgis says.
Sturgis is stepping down after more than four decades in the outdoor industry. “My next birthday, I’ll be 70. Maybe it’s time to throw in the towel so I can go biking, skiing and climbing without much interference,” he says. Still, he’s confident the future of trails in Park City is in good hands. “Mountain Trails works closely with Basin Rec, Park City Municipal and the resorts, and everyone’s in it for the right reasons. Plus, individual donors are still the biggest source of funding. The community is incredible.”
