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Salt Lake magazine established its Dining Awards in 1998. That year, the awards ceremony was held in Memory Grove with an accompanying picnic. The winners’ list included restaurants longtime Utahs will remember but are long gone (Capitol Cafe, Chez Betty and Metropolitan) but also many others that have survived and thrived in the ensuing 25 years (Log Haven, Cucina and Glitretind). For more than two decades, we’ve handed out hundreds of our plates to a worthy and growing selection of ambitious restaurateurs, chefs and culinary wizards to support and legitimize the Utah Food landscape. But then came the “lost years,” a term our editors and panelists coined during our discussion for this year’s awards. But now, knock wood, it feels renewed, new energy new everything.
For our 2023 Dining Awards, which we’ve coined as “Year One”, we were so thrilled to once again gather Utah’s culinary artists in one room. Hosted in partnership with The Local on Feb. 27, the Dining Awards Ceremony was an evening to remember. We thank everyone who was able to join us in celebrating the resilience, creativity and ingenuity of our city’s dining community. We would also like to thank our sponsors, we would not be able to host an event worthy of our guests without their support.
Each year we pass out a collection of special awards for individuals and organizations who, well, have done something special, superlative even. (And, also, just because we can.) Find all our 2023 Dining Awards winners here.
The Mary Brown Malouf #RandomPink Award: Hell’s Backbone Grill & Farm
he remote location of this working farm and restaurant in Boulder, Utah could be seen as both a contributor and detriment to Hell’s Backbone’s longevity and success. It is perhaps the best example of an actual destination restaurant in Utah. The love child of Jen Castle and Blake Spalding has gained national and well-deserved recognition. But labors of love are still labors. Last year, Jen and Blake, beleaguered by the pandemic, rising costs (and likely sheer exhaustion) raised a white flag and asked the world to contribute to a Go Fund Me campaign to ensure the restaurant’s financial security beyond the next season. Supporters and fans from around Utah and the Globe came through. Proving that, yes, we can have nice things in Utah. Maybe this will be the year Jen and Blake get that bloody James Beard Award, meanwhile, Mary sends her love, xoxomm.
The Blue Plate Award for Community Mindedness: Tea Zaanti
Tea Zaanti moved to its new location, modeled after the NOLA-famous Bacchanal, just in time for the pandemic to shutter everything. Owners Becky and Scott worked on overdrive to find ways to still provide “tea and sympathy” for our community. In fact, “Communi-TEA” is the shop’s motto. The shop is located in a Sugar House bungalow set back from the street (with a stellar patio). They host regular community events—from maker’s markets, tea and wine education classes to drag shows and art walks. Their “Tea. Wine. Action.” initiative highlights essential community groups. If you stop in at Tea Zaanti, chances are you’ll walk away feeling connected and nourished. And that’s everyone’s cup of tea.
The What’s Next? Award: Romina Rassmussen of Les Madeleines
For 20 years, baking genius Romina Rassmussen fed us pastries that combined all the nit-picky precision and butter worship that make French pastry one of the culinary wonders of the world. Although she’d probably rather not ever hear the words “kouign amann” again, they bear repeating, at least, one more time. Romina was essentially a pastry archeologist when she re-introduced this obscure Breton pastry to the world. At the time, one had to travel to the northwest corner of France to find one. The work-intensive pastry was often overlooked, well, because making it is work-intensive. Undaunted, Romina started making this rich buttery pastry from Brittany, France, with layers of dough, and caramelized sugar on the outside. Her bakery, Les Madeleines, was the first west of the Mississippi to offer the Breton pastry that was named pastry of the year by Food & Wine magazine, in part thanks to Romina. Meanwhile, her bakery churned out a full menu of delicious, French-inspired treats for all those years. We suspect Romina has something else baking in the oven and look forward to seeing what it is. Until then, so long and thanks for all the treats!
The Golden Spoon Award for Hospitality (Lifetime Achievement): Valter Nassi of Valter’s Osteria/Cucina Toscana
When you walked through the doors into Valter’s Osteria, time froze. Whatever year it was outside, within the restaurant there was no time. You were on “Valter Time” under the spell of the impish Italian. Amid the evening service, Valter glided from table to table, doing what he did best: charming everyone who entered his realm. Valter died last September at age 76, and the clocks that kept Valter Time stopped with him.
Valter was born in the small village of Monte San Savino, Italy in 1946. Young Valter blew around the world, like Mary Poppins, working in restaurants in Europe, Africa and New York. In 1996, his feet touched down in Salt Lake City, where he fell in love with our town which he lovingly called “My Salt Lake City.”
Valter truly became Valter after he launched Cucina Toscana with his partner Ken Milo in the Firestone building at 300 West and 300 South. This Valter was more than a restauranteur, he was an impresario. He impressed at Cucina Toscana until 2012 when he announced his short-lived retirement. He soon opened his namesake Osteria. Countless awards and accolades were given to Valter, including a long run of Best Italian and Best Restaurant (period) Dining Awards from Salt Lake magazine, whose then-editor, the late Mary Brown Malouf, wrote of Valter, “he gives us the overriding impression that food is fun and that dining well is an experience to be enjoyed from the tip of your tongue to the depths of your soul.” Thank you, Valter.
Hungry for more? Discover winners from previous Dining Awards:
Utah Food is a conundrum, what even is it? Fry sauce, funeral potatoes. Naww. Food evolves and tastes evolve and within that evolution, a consensus begins to form and standards emerge. None of these restaurants are standing still or living in the past (well maybe, Maddox, but the past is what that place is about) but all have proven their excellence for so long that they have become institutions that are the backbone of dining in Utah.
Each week Maddox serves more than 15,000 (!) customers. That’s right, 15 thousand. Some come to sit in the classic log cabin’s dining room or lunch counter, others pull up to the drive-in, still served by carhops, and others pick up a family meal on the way home.
Feldman’s Deli was one of the top picks for panelist Stuart Melling and for good reason. It’s a classic Jewish deli that’s given SLC a taste of NYC for nearly a decade with its half-pound sandwiches (including the best pastrami west of Katz’s Delicatessen).
Mazza was the first place many native Utahns tried middle eastern food and we loved it. Chef-owner Ali Sabbah continues to set the standard for Middle Eastern food in Utah, serving complex, layered dishes with warm hospitality.
Veneto’s Marco and Amy Stevanoni are proud of their curated wine list, impeccable dishes and providing an overall exceptional dining experience. The cuisine draws inspiration from Marco’s native region of Northern Italy called, naturally, Veneto.
Red Iguana fulfills the promise of its slogan. It is, in fact, Killer Mexican food that is absolutely worth the wait. For nearly 40 years they’ve been serving up delicious and perfected family dishes like chile verde and world-famous mole.
There’s a line outside the door of Takashi every night for a reason. Chef Takashi Gibo’s modern take on sushi is among the best for the freshness of the fish, attention to detail and bright flavors. There are many worthy sushi spots but there is only one Takashi.
18 W. Market St., SLC, 801-519-9595
Best New Restaurants to Watch
Very often a new restaurant comes on the scene with a splash and catches our attention but, hey, it’s a hard biz at any time, much less at this time. But these four newcomers raised our eyebrows and we’re excited to see what happens next.
The atmosphere of Ivy + Varley exudes coolness. “It has a very New York or LA vibe,” says Dining Awards panelist Jennifer Burns, and if that puts you off—it shouldn’t. It brings a big city vibe without prentenstion. “The service and hospitality are personal and genuine,” says Nightlife Editor Avrey Evans, who recommends the kimchi michelada taken on the stunning outdoor patio. With an attention to detail in their bar menu and heavenly bites, we expect this newcomer to continue to thrive.
From the minds behind Whiskey Street, White Horse Tavern and Bourbon House comes Franklin Ave. Cocktails & Kitchen. The emphasis here is on the “kitchen.” Chef Matt Crandall gets to stretch his wings at Franklin Ave. ignoring the “bar” in bar food and simply serving great food.
Appearing as if out of nowhere comes Urban Hill, a flag planted in SLC by the team at Park City’s Hearth & Hill. We welcome the incursion. Hearth & Hill is a proven PC force. “They hire talent in the kitchen, pay what people need to survive and put their money where it matters,” says panelist Darby Doyle. Indeed, our scouts’ early reconnaissance of Urban Hill indicates greatness to come.
St. George is overrun with chain restaurants that weaseled in alongside its explosive growth. But amid the sea of mediocrity, we’ve discovered an island of civility. Wood • Ash • Rye. Located in Avenire Hotel, this of-the-moment restaurant features the requisite brunch for the brunch bunch but its dinner menu really shines. Executive Chef Shon Foster’s menu of sharable plates follows the seasons and gives nods to St. George’s history like his charming take on funeral potatoes the “Potato Saint.”
Salt Lake magazine established its Dining Awards in 1998. That year, the awards ceremony was held en plien air in Memory Grove with an accompanying picnic. The winners’ list included restaurants longtime Utahs will remember but are long gone (Capitol Cafe, Chez Betty and Metropolitan) but also many others that have survived and thrived in the ensuing 25 years (Log Haven, Cucina and Glitretind). For more than two decades, we’ve handed out hundreds of our plates to a worthy and growing selection of ambitious restaurateurs, chefs and culinary wizards to support and legitimize the Utah Food landscape. But then came the “lost years,” a term our editors and panelists coined during our discussion for this year’s awards. The pandemic was especially hard on this part of our community, as we all know, and for these past two years, the magazine focused its accolades on restaurateurs who found creative ways to keep their doors open (“The 2021 Blue Plate Awards or How to Survive in the Restaurant Industry During a Pandemic”) and asking chefs to support other chefs (“The 2022 Chef’s Choice Awards”). It is difficult, after all, to evaluate the food on the table when just keeping the lights on took an effort worthy of applause.
We have, however, finally emerged (knock on wood). Restaurants are back in the swing of things and there is excitement in the air as we’ve all rediscovered the pleasures of a great meal served by a superlative restaurant. In some ways, the 2023 Dining Awards feel like a fresh start unburdened by the past and blessed by optimism for the future of dining in Utah. Here’s our guide to 12 of the best dining experiences we’ve had over the past year and 4 more restaurants to watch and classics to revisit.
The 12 Best Restaurants in Utah (Right Now)
We considered consistency, overall experience (“is this something you can’t get at home?”), hospitality, service and innovation for each. But most of all we made it personal—would we send our friends and family to a place? The answer, for these 12 is “absolutely.” The term “Best” is subjective, after all, but we know it when we see it. Click on the images below to learn more about our 2023 winners.
Photography by Adam Finkle
Meet the Salt Lake Magazine 2023 Dining Awards Panel
Stuart Melling
Stuart is the founder, writer and wrangler at Gastronomic SLC; he’s also a former restaurant critic of more than five years, working for The Salt Lake Tribune. He has worked extensively with multiple local publications and helped consult for national TV shows. Stuart is an award-winning journalist who has covered the Utah dining scene for 15 years. He’s largely fueled by a critical obsession with rice, alliteration and the use of big words he doesn’t understand.
Darby Doyle
Darby Doyle is a food, beverage, and outdoor writer who covers the culinary and natural wonders of the American West. She’s freelanced for a passel of print and digital publications, and her stories featuring Utah’s bar and restaurant scene have won multiple journalism awards. When not reminiscing about great meals shared with friends, you’ll find Darby camping, fly fishing or hunting with her family, or lounging in her overgrown garden with a good book and a Boulevardier.
Jennifer Burns
Jennifer has always had a love of cooking and appreciating craftsmanship in culinary arts. She has hosted over 3,000 TV cooking segments featuring her recipes, as well as guest chefs. Jennifer has a published cookbook called Cooking Delight, which combines food, music and art. She has been a contributing food writer for The Salt Lake Tribune and other publications. Besides cooking and frequenting restaurants, she takes full advantage of the outdoor wonders that Utah offers.
Lydia Martinez
Lydia is a freelance food, travel and culture writer. She has written for Salt Lake magazine, Suitcase Foodist and Utah Stories. She is a reluctantly stationary nomad who mostly travels to eat great food. She is a sucker for anything made with lots of butter and has been known to stay in bed until someone brings her coffee.
SIDE DISHES
Six Utah Classics
Utah Food is a conundrum, what even is it? Fry sauce, funeral potatoes. Naww. Food evolves and tastes evolve and within that evolution, a consensus begins to form and standards emerge. None of these restaurants are standing still or living in the past (well maybe, Maddox, but the past is what that place is about) but all have proven their excellence for so long that they have become institutions that are the backbone of dining in Utah. Our six Utah classics are:
Very often a new restaurant comes on the scene with a splash and catches our attention but, hey, it’s a hard biz at any time, much less at this time. But these four newcomers raised our eyebrows and we’re excited to see what happens next.
Oquirrh’s fried spaghetti squash with blue cheese, chicory, pomegranate and saba. Photo by Adam Finkle
After working in some of the best restaurants in town (Copper Onion, HSL, Pago) Chef Andrew Fuller and front-of-house standout Angie Fuller opened their dream restaurant, Oquirrh, in downtown Salt Lake City in February of 2019. Like the Tinman and the Scarecrow heading “off to see the wizard,” there’s a head and a heart here. Angie is the heart and Drew is the engineer. Oquirrh is an artisanal community experience: an expression of love. “Oquirrh is what I hope the future of dining in Utah is like,” says Dining Award Panelist Darby Doyle. “It is intimate, exceptional and changes with the season. It is serious food that doesn’t take itself too seriously.” Everything on the menu is familiar with an eye toward comfort but imbued with Andrew’s flair for originality and served with grace, gusto and humor—the asparagus spears stand at attention on the plate, little soldiers with their feet stuck in a sheep’s milk fondue. Local art can be purchased right off the wall. This is the kind of restaurant Salt Lake needs—chef-dreamed, chef-run, definitively local. It deserves being called the Outstanding Restaurant of the Year. As panelist Lydia Martinez says, “They keep getting better and better but it still feels like you are sitting down at someone’s kitchen table.” —Jeremy Pugh
HSL’s Grilled cauliflower with coconut milk and red cabbage emulsion. Photo By Adam Finkle
These are two different restaurants in two very different spaces. Handle, located just off of Park City’s Historic Main Street, stands out in a town that caters to visitors where some operators, frankly, phone it in. HSL on the edge of downtown SLC is Handle’s cousin in the city. The common denominator is, of course, Chef Briar Handly, who is the impresario behind what panelist Lydia Martinez called “The Briar Handly Experience.” Chef Handly is an enfant terrible who can’t stop playing with his food. But sitting still is only prized by preachers and school teachers. We, on the other hand like our chefs to have poor attention spans which result in surprise and, from Handly, delight, regardless if you’re in a party of 20 or two. (The latter was experienced by panelist Jennifer Burns, who watched in awe as the servers and kitchen produced one of “the most phenomenal experiences ever.”)—Jeremy Pugh
Chicken fried chicken served with gravy and sides of collard greens and candied yams. Photo By Adam Finkle
Inside, Sauce Boss Southern Kitchen feels more like a diner than fine dining, but that’s the point. “It’s not fancy, but it is great eats served with love,” says Darby Doyle, a Kentuckyian who knows Southern food. The menu is the embodiment of nostalgia, Southern comfort and Black soul food at its best—a rare combination to find in Utah, to say the least. The focus is on authentic flavors, consistent quality and the details: Red Drink (their house-made version of Bissap), real sweet tea, crunchy-crust cornbread, fried catfish, blackened chicken wings and the best collard greens in the valley. Chef Julius Thompson nails the standards. He’s a master at the deep fryer, and, our panelists say, his touch with spice and sauces is pretty special.
Yes. Copper Common is a bar and NOT a restaurant, which is clearly noted by Utah’s state-mandated sign on the door. The original inspiration for owner Ryan Lowder was Maison Premiere in Williamsburg, a high-end cocktail and oyster joint at the heart of hipster Brooklyn. Oysters are still on the menu here and the cocktails are still on the highest of ends, but it’s the food that makes Copper Common a reliable restaurant (despite what the liquor cops say.) Mainly thanks to its new(ish) Chef Sarah Corson. Lowder is a guy who can see talent. He plucked her off the line at Copper Onion and trained her up to be chef de cuisine at both Copper Onion and the bar, ahem, restaurant next door. Corson is the opposite of her loudmouth (in a good way) boss. She’s quiet and reserved. She lets the food on the plate do her talking, elevating items as basic as a cheeseburger or a frissee salad to mouth-watering levels. “Her new menu invigorated a lot of what I thought was already great about Copper Common,” complimented panelist Darby Doyle.
Smoked Trout Rillette, Crab and Pimento Dip, Lamb Merguez Meatballs. Photo By Adam Finkle
Central 9th’s Mortadella Sandwich. Photo by Adam Finkle
The term restaurant doesn’t really fit this neighborhood market next door to Water Witch on what may be Salt Lake’s hippest block. “Bodega” is a more apt label. Anyone who has enjoyed discovering a killer deli counter hiding inside a non-descript New York Bodega will understand why there’s a line out the door on Saturday mornings at the Central 9th Market. Customers stand ‘on line’ for the breakfast sandwich panelist Darby Doyle calls “the best thing I’ve had outside of New York City” and (more to the point) “a ****ing phenomenal sandwich.” Good food, after all, doesn’t have to come with white linens and silverware as panelist Stuart Melling says of the selection: “At the end of the day, it’s about recognizing excellence. And Central 9th is excellent.” So grab a sandwich from the more-than-just-breakfast deli menu, head next door to Scion or The Witch and eat up. —Jeremy Pugh
Platinum Provisions’ Wagyu Tataki with truffle ponzu, seaweed and local mizuna and a Utah Scone with smoked cheddar galette
and everything spice. Photo by Adam Finkle
SLC Eatery has been a go-to recommendation of Utah foodies for several years running. Part of SLC Eatery’s consistent success is a menu that is, perhaps ironically, always evolving and surprising diners, allowing patrons to push themselves out of their culinary comfort zones. “Logen Crew and Paul Chamberlain and the team take their food seriously, but not themselves,” says panelist Darby Doyle of the warm and welcoming atmosphere. One of SLC Eatery’s signature features is its dining cart service. (Tip: The dim sum cart has especially fun offerings.) “Some of the best bites of my life have occurred here,” says Doyle. The sentiment is seconded by Lydia Martinez, who likewise praises SLC Eatery’s hamachi as “the best of my life.” No matter the dishes that end up on the table—entree or ala carte—rest assured there will be a perfect wine to pair with it. —Christie Porter
