Skip to main content
All Posts By

Mary Brown Malouf

Mary Brown Malouf is the late Executive Editor of Salt Lake magazine and Utah's expert on local food and dining. She still does not, however, know how to make a decent cup of coffee.

sunchokes

What is That Ugly Thing?

By Eat & Drink

After the recent gilding of the Brussels sprout, the food world is always looking for the “next Brussels sprout.” Or cauliflower. The unexpected popularity of a previously underused (and generally inexpensive) vegetable has become every chef’s quest. So now… sunchokes.

Confession: I had never encountered a sunchoke face-to-face until I tried the “Tuscarora” pizza at Fireside on Regent which is covered with a pile of apparent potato chips that turn out to be sunchoke chips.

Over the last couple of years, sunchokes are increasingly common on menus. Chefs seem to be dazzled by sunchokes. Why? These tubers have a mild flavor (often described as nutty, but not like artichokes). They cook quickly without too much fuss about prep, they are a low-calorie, high fiber, low-carb potato stand-in (great for diabetics) with iron, calcium, magnesium, and potassium.

And, like potatoes, they make great chips.

They’re naturally in season late fall to early spring—in Utah, that translates to May.

The downside? Because they’re high in inulin (Google it) they have a reputation of causing flatulence if not cooked correctly. Then again, so do broccoli, artichokes (no relation,) Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and lentils. The easy solution? Cook them with lemon juice.

Pago, 878 S. 900 East, SLC, 801-532-0777

Sunchoke poutine: smoked onion, mushroom gravy, cheddar curds, pickled chiles

Provisions, 3364 S. 2300 East, SLC, 801-410-4046

Prime steak tartare with shaved chestnuts, smoked cheddar, lemon, sunchoke chips and a bit of horseradish.

Garden Cafe at Grand America, 555 S. Main St., SLC, 801-258-6708

Braised Boneless Short Rib with celeriac puree, carrots, onions, sunchokes, celery and natural jus.

Fireside on Regent, 126 S. Regent Street, SLC, 801-359-4011

The Tuscarora, a white pizza topped with sunchoke chips, fingerling potato, pancetta, ricotta and mozzarella, wood-fired in the beautiful Italian pizza oven.

Glitretind, Stein Ericksen Lodge, 7700 Stein Way, PC, 435- 645-6455

Freekeh & winter vegetables rutabaga puree featuring sunchokes, turnips, petite greens and freekeh (green wheat, a grain poised to be “the next quinoa”).

pho

Pho Restaurants in Salt Lake City: 3 Favorites

By Eat & Drink

Ramen and pho are the soups du jour—the go-to broths for millennials, with a growing fan base among, well, everyone else. Since moving to Utah, Texan Adrian Duran, whose day job is working with Mexican food at Rico’s, has been systematically sampling pho restaurants in Salt Lake City and beyond.

Pho Restaurants in Salt Lake City“My number one criterion is the broth,” he says. “It has to be deep, with a resonance in the mouth that only comes from long cooking. I think oxtail adds a lot to the body of a broth.”

Second to that priority for Duran is the noodles (they should be house-made) and the garnishes (the spicy fresh counterpoint to the deep broth). Ideally, the meat should be cooked by the broth just so it’s still pink.

Pho 28, 428 E. 900 South, SLC, 801-364-9918 This family-run spot offers six versions of pho, including chicken, with the special including beef eye of round, beef balls, brisket, tendon and tripe. Slightly limited in the choice of sauces.

La-Cai Noodle House, 961 S. State St., SLC, 801-322-3590. – Duran thinks the broth here is the best. Besides beef variations, La-Cai makes a vegetarian pho.

Asia Palace 2, 1446 S. State St., SLC, 801-485-1646 – Preferred to Asia Palace 1 and right across the street from Tosh’s Ramen if you want to do a soup comparison. The menu here is a little more Americanized, but the selections are bounteous.

See all of our food and drink coverage here.

marysmall

Letter from the Editor – It’s All Connected

By City Watch

I tried to think of another headline for this, I really did. But I couldn’t come up with anything so apt. I have never actually heard that phrase said in its intended setting, while boarding a train. But in 1896, it was a common phrase, called out when things were going to start moving. Back then, trains were the connective tissue of the world, the quickest way to get to Point A from Point B. And few events were as momentous in railroad history as the driving of the Golden Spike at Promontory Point in Utah, 150 years ago.

Utah is celebrating that event all year long with events in every county and in most towns.  For this issue of Salt Lake magazine, I read all about the Golden Spike and 19th-century railroads, interviewed historians, locomotive mechanics and event planners—the resulting story surprised me. Yes, railroads built this country, but history has gilded the story. The truth is something more interesting and heart-wrenching.

Our train nostalgia inspires another kind of Old West homage—with cowboy boots and flounces, fashion is also experiencing a Western revival.

Our state’s connection to its past is strong, but we are also pushing hard into the future. The rise of Silicon Slopes—in Utah—surprised the country. Writer Jeremy Pugh takes us into a tech culture that goes back as far as 1954 (really) and has evolved into a tech boom that, much like the railroad 150 years ago, is putting Utah at the center of the map. Only this time, instead of steel and iron it’s a network of data and ideas that don’t just connect the nation, they connect the world.

We are essentially a magazine devoted to a place, Utah, then, now and always. And like the railroad and the internet, our purpose is to connect. So in this issue, we bring together the Old West with the New West, with stories about new tech and old tech; the West as it was and the West as it is today. Call it our own Golden Spike.

 

 

 

 

 


Subscribers can see more. Sign up and you’ll be included in our membership program and get access to exclusive deals, premium content and more. Get the magazine, get the deals, get the best of life in Utah! 

SLM-MJ19-Hive-4-Sandwich

Beware Belgians Bearing Mitraillette Sandwiches

By Eat & Drink

Actually, just the thought of a mitraillette sandwich is intimidating. Never mind that its name means “machine gun.” Thick links of spicy merguez sausage (a traditional Moroccan sausage made in this case by local meat maven Frody Volgger) are topped with a pile of perfectly twice-fried Belgian frites on a baguette. (If you’re a Pittsburgher, this may remind you of Primati’s famous sandwich.) The Belgian Andalouse sauce, which you can think of as Belgian fry sauce with some zip to it, ties it all together like the Dude’s rug. In Belgium, a craving for a mitraillette sandwich is typical after a night of drinking. Sort of like hitting the Village Inn or Taco Bell in Salt Lake terms. Here it’s served at Bruges, the Belgian waffles and frites shops, a business that native Belgian Pierre Van Damme started from a food stand at the Downtown Farmers Market. Now you can own your arsenal. I mean franchise.


Subscribers can see more. Sign up and you’ll be included in our membership program and get access to exclusive deals, premium content and more. Get the magazine, get the deals, get the best of life in Utah! 

WT0C5155-copy

One Last Night: Aristo’s Closing Saturday

By Eat & Drink

Utah has all too few larger than life colorful and talented people who make big waves in this often dull desert landscape. Aristides Boutsikakis is one—his bluster, his frightening frankness, his uncontrollable mouth and often-outrageous opinions made his character as well-known as the personal versions of his family’s Cretan cuisine that came from his kitchen. His beloved father gardened for the restaurant table, his mother turned out the incredible phyllo pastries that are one of the glories of Greek food. Aristo’s heart on his sleeve regarding his family contrasted with the giant chip on his shoulder.

Accordingly, his eponymous restaurant has consistently been one of Salt Lake City’s VERY BEST PLACES TO EAT. (All caps intentional.)

aristo's closingDon’t Miss
the Last Big Night

Aristo’s Greek Restaurant
244 S. 1300 East, SLC
(801) 581-0888
Reservations: www.aristosslc.com

Sad news: This Saturday night is the LAST NIGHT you will be able to eat the legendary octopus, lamb tacos, lamb shank garden greens, mezze plates … in fact, everything at this beloved restaurant on 1300 East.

Somewhat to his own surprise, Aristo has been given an offer he can’t refuse and he has, reluctantly, sold his restaurant to someone who will undoubtedly offer us food much less delicious..

This isn’t the last we’ll see of Aristo. He’s got plans—held Vegas-like close to his vest. But it is the last we’ll see of his cooking for awhile.

So go. If you’ve ever loved a spoonful of anything from Aristo’s kitchen Saturday night is the last night to sit on his patio. So GET IT WHILE YOU CAN. Tonight through Saturday.

The man himself will be in the kitchen, so you may not see him, but you’ll know he’s there— by the cursing coming from the back of house.


See all of our food and drink coverage here.

Go West with Modern West’s New Space

By Arts & Culture

Experiential. That’s the new buzzword in art galleries and exhibition spaces. It has various degrees of interpretation—from Meow Wolf in Santa Fe to the pumpkin environment of Yayoi Kasuma, but the basic idea is the same: Instead of approaching art as something to look at, art is conceived as something to interact with. Actually, to be in.

Mountain West Gallery

LEFT TO RIGHT: Tylor Pilcher, event manager; gallery owner Diane Stewart; gallery director Shalee Cooper; gallerist/curator Liberty Blake

Book it, Diane : A Taschen Library

Besides Modern West’s gallery, the space will also feature a Taschen Library, one of only a handful in the United States. The high-quality art, design, architecture and photography books from this publisher are nearly works of art in themselves. Stewart has plans to bring in Taschen authors and feature discussion groups about various topics.

The traditional white-walled gallery will probably never go away, but as usual in Salt Lake City, the art dealer and connoisseur Diane Stewart is the first one to breach the veil.

“Our lease was up. It was time to move,” she says. Impressively, in a town that only dips its toe in visual arts, her downtown Modern West Gallery needed to expand. Currently, it occupies 4,000 square feet; the new space has 10,000 square feet.

As of April 6, Modern West will be housed in an old brick engineering building on 700 West. It’s on the historic register and when I visited, the industrial windows and brick walls were not quite a work in progress that I could recognize. But Stewart has it all in her head. She is not just moving her gallery; she’s reconceiving it. “Expanded boundaries means expanded imagination,” she says, and she has traveled to Art Basel, Seattle Art Show, Palm Springs Art Fair and Meow Wolf to feed her vision.

“These are the moveable walls,” she says, indicating a pile of rectangles on the floor. She will be able to essentially rebuild the gallery according to the exhibit. The new space will have a courtyard for events and placing sculpture, and has room for showing the work of more installation artists and video artists. “We’re expanding the ways we’re showing art,” says Stewart. “We want our shows to be more thematically oriented. And we want to expand our mission to be more inclusive of patrons, collectors and artists. A lot of our collectors don’t live in the state.”

Stewart sees Modern West as embracing and representing a larger idea of the American West—Western in the broadest, cultural, historical sense. And she has the further ambition for a gallery that will not just show artwork, but nurture artists. “I want it to be a gathering space for artists and collectors. I want to create a community,” she says. “Economic development follows creative, not the other way around.” 

Modern WestFine Art, 412 S. 700 West, SLC, 801-355-3383

See all of our visual arts coverage here.

Subscribers can see more. Sign up and you’ll be included in our membership program and get access to exclusive deals, premium content and more. Get the magazine, get the deals, get the best of life in Utah! 

Saving the Animals and Eating the Vegetables in Kanab

By Eat & Drink

Best Friends Animal Sanctuary has become the biggest attraction and largest employer in Kanab and now, thanks to its hundreds of visitors, Kanab is slowly becoming a dining hotspot. (Mostly vegetarian, of course. The town is all about the animals.) The newest spot is called Peekaboo Canyon Wood Fired Kitchen, it’s located inside the Flagstone Boutique Inn & Suites and it’s run by none other than longtime Salt Lake City chef Kathie Chadbourne—last seen as proprietor of Avenues Bistro on Third. The menu focuses on artisanal pizza from the wood fired oven, but there is a full menu, including mac & cheese, cassoulet and the Impossible Burger in several iterations. Lots of the food can be made vegan and there’s a nice list of wine and beer and even craft cocktails. Not to mention desserts. Open for lunch, dinner and weekend brunch.
233 W. Center St., Kanab,
435-689-1959

Subscribers can see more. Sign up and you’ll be included in our membership program and get access to exclusive deals, premium content and more. Get the magazine, get the deals, get the best of life in Utah! 

BTG Wine Bar’s Move Means More Room for Wine

By After Dark, Eat & Drink

Another red-tape ridiculousness instigated the move of BTG and Caffé Molise to the beautiful Eagle Building. Supposedly, the old location was due to be demolished for (yes, yet another) downtown hotel to serve Salt Lake’s booming convention business. With the departure of Outdoor Retailers from the Salt Palace schedule, the need for more rooms is less urgent; nevertheless the block is (or is not) slated to be razed and BTG and Caffé Molise were on the move—to bigger, airier, cooler spaces.

The change in BTG’s location is particularly good—the former space was dark and deep; the new bar, downstairs from Caffé Molise, is broken up into more intimate spaces. Settle into a banquette and test your tastebuds with flights of wines. BTG offers over 75 different wines by the glass in every category you can imagine—17 year-old port, botrytis viognier, madeira are just a few examples from the often-overlooked dessert wine list. Order a two-ounce pour for tasting, a full five-ounce glass or, if you know you love it, buy the bottle. And if you’re hungry, you can order food from Caffé Molise upstairs. The flexible space means you can bring a crowd or sip solo at the bar. This is the real deal.

404 S. West Temple, SLC, 801-359-2814, caffemolise.com


Subscribers can see more. Sign up and you’ll be included in our membership program and get access to exclusive deals, premium content and more. Get the magazine, get the deals, get the best of life in Utah! 

The Reinvention of Bar George

By After Dark, Eat & Drink

Remember those much-mocked signs required by the Utah Legislature? (We especially enjoyed the variant, “This is a Government. Not a Church.”) Of course, it all stemmed from the Byzantine (and I don’t use that word lightly and am aware of the cliché) laws and permits required to open a bar or restaurant in Utah.

A slight change to the ridiculous signage rule doesn’t really clear it up. Now the signs must read: “This is a bar” and “This is a restaurant.” Never the twain shall meet, except when they do at Scott Evans’ newest concept, replacing his Spanish tapas spot, Finca. Now, it’s two entities: the restaurant, George (“This is a Restaurant”) and the adjacent watering hole, Bar George (“This is a Bar”). The address is the same but the interior, which was too big anyway, has been divided into bar and restaurant sides.

Contrary to common belief, restaurants don’t make all their money on sales of alcohol. That is true in other states, where restaurants get a resell discount on what they buy, allowing a reasonable margin when they mark it up for consumer pricing. But in Utah, restaurants and bars pay retail prices (same as you and me), making it impossible for a traditional retail “keystone” markup. And making it hard to make a living as either a bar or a restaurant. 

Bar GeorgeThus, Bar George/George is another of the hybrids that we’ve seen seen open in Salt Lake City over the past year: Post Office Place, White Horse, London Belle, Lake Effect and Caffé Molise/BTG all have chef-driven menus that have made them food destinations as well as bars. Basically bars are becoming good restaurants and deftly side stepping the silly signage rule. 

And sure enough, the big impetus behind the chameleon change at George is because of our beloved Utah legislature and DABC. The revised 2017 law required Evans to choose between a bar license where alcohol can be served to those over 21 without a food order, or a restaurant license where you have to order food if you’re going to order alcohol. Evans had been operating with a now-nonexistent hybrid license. 

The food menu at both Georges is similar—the separation between the purposes of the two spaces is vague, except, perhaps to the DABC. The small space, Bar George, carved out of the huge Finca footprint, serves small bites but its big draw is a 40-bottle rotating list of natural wine, a passion of Evans. 

At its core, Bar George is a wine bar. Although there are cocktails, as well as sherry, madeira, beer and cider. But here you can peruse a wine list like you’ve never seen. Categories are labeled biodynamic, amphora, methode ancestrale, Col-Fondo, natural and vin natur. Natural wines are Evans’ passion and he’s excited to be introducing Salt Lake to these modern versions of ancient winemaking. You’ll have to learn a whole new wine vocabulary to order a glass with confidence here, but once you do, think how hip you’ll be. 

327 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-487-1699, bargeorgeslc.com


Subscribers can see more. Sign up and you’ll be included in our membership program and get access to exclusive deals, premium content and more. Get the magazine, get the deals, get the best of life in Utah! 

Hosting Away from Home: Six Great Spaces

By Eat & Drink

Sometimes you have more party planned than your house can hold. Ideally, you’d host a special party at your own home—you want it to feel personal, hospitable, reflective of you. But many of us simply can’t accommodate all our friends in our own houses. What are the options? Lose some friends? Some rental spaces are too big—the Natural History Museum of Utah, Rice-Eccles and the Hogle Zoo, for example—but a restaurant dining room is too small. Worry not: You have options that are, as Goldilocks said, just right—and here are some you may not know about.

P.S. Don’t forget to put us on the guest list.

host

The Urban Studio Story

Home for a night.

“This building was originally a grocery store, then everything from a bar and brothel to a storage and shipping space,” says owner Jo Packham, creator of The Urban Studio in Ogden and the globe-trotting creator/editor-in-chief of Where Women Cook, a quarterly magazine celebrating female foodies worldwide. Packham exposed original brick walls from beneath plaster and opened and reinforced the beamed ceiling to create a rustic urban backdrop for her spirited design. Industrial lighting, copper railings and a swoon-worthy open kitchen now teem with dazzling floor-to-ceiling glass shelves displayed with ready-to-use stemware, tableware, linens and decor items Packham’s collected over many years and now constantly curates. All yours for the using when you hold an event there.

Accommodates

30 sitting down or 49 standing

Amenities

Cool and cozy urban space with all the accessories you need.

Perfect for

A casual and creative dinner party that feels like it could be in your own home, if you were as creative as Jo Packham. Just pretend she’s you.

Urban Studio, 2485 Grant Ave, #106, Ogden, 801-394-3040

host

The Rabbit Hole at Lake Effect

The magic happens downstairs.

The semi-secret underground room below the main bar at Lake Effect has a completely different vibe than the bar-restaurant upstairs. The space is lit with gas lamps, which shed a light much gentler and flattering than electric cans and give the whole room an old-fashioned aura that makes everyone feel beautiful. There is a full bar, big cozy booths and sofas as well as tables, room for a band and an atmosphere of mystery and romance.

Accommodates

Up to 150 people for a cocktail party

Amenities

Order food from the catering menu; the establishment can also provide bar and staffing.

Perfect for

A secret society initiation party. With masks.

The Rabbit Hole at Lake Effect, 155 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-532-20688

host

Kilby Court

The quirky performance venue
in an old garage doubles as a quirky event venue.

Kilby Court is actually a performance venue—Salt Lake City’s longest-running all-ages venue, known for hosting edgy and as-yet unknown performers like Jonathan Richman, Future Islands, Cloud Nothings, Twin Sister and Schoolboy Q. Since 1999, owner Will Sartain and partner Lance Saunders have booked 5,000 shows into the rustic DIY space (formerly a garage) at the end of a quiet downtown street. But they also book weddings and birthday parties for those who want a different and unexpected vibe. There is a base cost of $500 with extra charges if you want chairs or need extra staff. Sartain and Saunders also own Rye, so you can order catering from Rye. Or bring in your own.

Accommodates

Up to 200

Amenities

A performance area inside that flows into the courtyard outside; liquor allowed if it is private event.

Perfect for

A millennial celebration. Bring on the pink hair, kombucha and cocktails.

Kilby Court, 748 S. Kilby Court, Salt Lake City, 800-513-7540

host

The Copper Nickel

This beautiful venue has bullet holes
and underground tunnels.

“The building was originally built by the Browning brothers, who owned Browning Arms. The kitchen was the original gun range where they would test their prototypes, and the Bride’s Room is where the research and development took place for Browning rifles,” says Kassandre Alvey, scheduler for The Copper Nickel in Ogden. Owned by Sheri and Jim Alvey, The Copper Nickel has a history that perfectly aligns with Ogden’s rough and tumble reputation. Pointing at the holes around the kitchen doors’ metal casement, Alvey says, “These are bullet holes from where they tested Browning guns.

The basement also has a remnant of underground tunnels from Prohibition.” Though the building has seen some wild times, it now has a beautiful combination of industrial and rustic touches to add the perfect amount of character to your event. Almost everything is original: the bricks, wall paintings, floors, windows and garage door all date back to the early 1900s. The large wood beams traversing the ceiling and the industrial-chic chandeliers (complete with Edison bulbs) really set the stage for an Instagram-worthy wedding or memorable 50th birthday bash.

Accommodates

Seats up to 350 people comfortably, can hold 600 people if you have both sitting and standing guests

Amenities

You can rent tables, chairs and linens from the venue for an additional fee. There is also a litany of other rentable items from mason jars and votives to hot chocolate machines and a dance floor.

Perfect for

The bride on a budget who also majored in history, or an aspiring 20th-century arms developer.

The Copper Nickel, 2450 Grant Ave., Ogden, 801-822-7468

host

Park City Culinary Institute in SLC

Party in the kitchen.

Anyone who’s ever hosted a party knows that the most fun is in the kitchen. You may have your great room and dining room all prepared, but your guests will inevitably congregate in the kitchen. So why not skip the circling around and frankly host your event in the kitchen? Park City Culinary Institute has a Salt Lake campus that can double as a perfect party space—natural light and red brick, with commercial appliances provide a more warm and welcoming atmosphere than a run-of-the-mill room. For business–oriented gatherings, you can use cooking as a tool to build teamwork and rapport, foster better communication, practice problem solving, spur creativity, build trust, encourage leadership and relieve stress. Plus, cooking is fun.

Accommodates

Up to 100

Amenities

All tables, chairs, linens and staffing can be provided, or you can bring in your own.

Perfect for

A party for people who don’t know each other—nothing breaks the ice and changes strangers into friends like cooking together.

The Park City Culinary Institute in SLC, 1484 S. State St., SLC, 801-413-2800

host

Talia Event Center

Party with the new girl in town.

Talia is the newest space on our list, so don’t worry if you’ve never heard of it. The company took over a space in Clearfield and transformed it into whatever you want it to be—big rooms facility with expansive ceilings, a sun-kissed solarium, outdoor gardens, a full bar and dance floor, conference areas with state-of-the-art AV equipment and everything you need to make your event specialized to you.

The choice of large and intimate areas means you can design your party to fit the space—19,000 square feet gives you ample space for a mega-bash or there are smaller areas for family affairs.

Accommodates

All the friends you have, plus their cousins, twice removed

Amenities

All tables, chairs, linens and staffing can be provided, or you can bring in your own personal touches.

Perfect for

The biggest birthday bash for a special (or not) year.

Talia Event Center, 22 E. 200 South, Clearfield, 801-510-6509