It’s a casserole with weight
At the juniper inn take out restaurant in Logan, whatever you’re ordering comes with the option of “au gratin” potatoes. But locals know this cheesy, calorie-laden side dish of scalloped Idaho Russets dusted with cornflakes by its more specific taxonomy: “Funeral Potatoes.”
The gloomy moniker comes from the prevalence of this easy-to-prepare casserole at post-graveside-service receptions in LDS ward houses and grieving open houses up and down the Jell-O Belt (Utah, Southeastern Idaho, Off-Off-The-Strip Las Vegas and Orange County, Calif.). It is a member of the genus Hot Dish, native to the northern plains of the Midwestern United States, but its Utah prominence has evolved as a result of two distinct, selective factors: No. 1 large families and No. 2 even larger gatherings (such as funerals) attended by multiple large families.
So-called funeral potatoes are also commonly sighted at family reunions, both stake and ward picnics/campouts, wedding receptions and any occasion where hungry multitudes require easy, cheesy calories.
Its plumage varies from Relief Society Cookbook region to region, but the staples are: Frozen hashbrown potatoes, copious amounts of mild cheddar and/or Monterey Jack cheese (sharper cheese is eschewed), a can of cream of mushroom soup (generic brand varieties preferred), lots of margarine and commercial sour cream and a “crisp” topping such as corn flakes (again, off-brand) or potato chips for even more sodium. Bake at 350 for one hour, seal with foil, place on a foldout, ward-house table and insert spoon. (Find a full recipe from the late and great Mary Malouf here)
The principal consumers of Funeral Potatoes are LDS bishops, morticians and Relief Society and Elders’ Quorum presidents. Funeral Potatoes started popping up on menus with cheeky chef-driven flair (Gruyere, anyone?) a few years ago, and, of course, the aforementioned Juniper Take Out and Restaurant is a classic source.
But Utah is just recently coming to terms with its own food identity. One day we will have our own evangelist of regional cuisine—a Paula Deen with a Hyrum accent. And where cheese grits are on the menu at The Lady & Sons in Savannah, funeral potatoes will one day occupy the same spot on the buffet at Sister Wives or some such aptly named Temple of Utah’s own delicacies.
