I don’t know about you, but I get food crushes. Food that I fall in love with and actively crave. It is usually one particular dish that I will make a special trip to a restaurant repeatedly to get. It is almost always some version of comfort food. It isn’t always a main dish even. It can be a shared plate (that I won’t share) or a dessert. But it is a meal that brings me joy every time I get my hands on it, especially at Utah restaurants. So I will start writing about some of my local food crushes in hopes that you’ll fall in love with me.
My dad is from Mexico—Monterey specifically, un “Norteño.” My mom was a California girl whose stepdad was in the Navy, and she spent time in Japan on the military base. Which means I grew up with a literal melting pot of food and flavors in my home. One night might be refried black bean tostadas with fresh fried shells. Another night might be Japanese-style teriyaki chicken. There was always a ramen night each month with gussied-up instant ramen mixed with veggies, a soft-boiled egg, and a dash of chili flakes and toasted sesame oil. But each of these culinary traditions was translated through what we had on hand and were less traditional and more “inspired by” the originals. And they didn’t really mix. Which it turns out was a missed opportunity.
De Los Muertos in Sugarhouse. Photo by Lydia Martinez
I didn’t know what a missed opportunity was until I stopped by De Los Muertos in Sugar House (with both my parents) for a late lunch. Billed as “a modern, fresh twist on Mexican favorites like tacos, burritos with breakfast burritos served All Day,” Named De Los Muertos (“Of the Dead”) to honor the dishes and recipes that were passed down from generation to generation by our chef/owner’s family, there is one dish that stands out, and I’m confident would wake the dead.
I’d been hearing great things but didn’t expect the perfect Mexican-Japanese fusion in a bowl to show up on the table, especially at a Utah restaurant. Enter Birria Ramen. Fresh ramen noodles cooked in a Birria topped with shredded, braised beef.
For those that haven’t experienced Birria before, it is closest to a slow-braised meat stew that can be made with beef, goat, lamb or chicken. Originating from Jalisco, the broth is rich, salty and laced with cumin and chilies. Like ramen broth, it takes time to make and coats the tongue. Quesabirria tacos have become a hit of late—with the tacos griddled with cheese and served with broth for dipping ala French dip.
The Birria Ramen at De Los Muertos is spicy and will stick to your ribs, the perfect cure for a chilly day. Served with fresh cilantro and raw onions, you can also get a hot tortilla on the side for extra dipping. You should dole out the crisp radishes as you make your way through the bowl so they stay crunchy and raw. And you should absolutely add fresh lime juice every few bites. Eating a bowl is like cuddling up in a blanket on your abuela’s couch and watching anime. It is comforting without trying too hard to be “fusion-y.” It is like they were always made to go together.
While there, end the meal with some churro beignets or grab a signature margarita.
If You Go… De Los Muertos 1215 Wilmington Ave., Sugar House
Find more of Lydia’s food crushes at Utah restaurants, here!
Samantha Fish put a “spell on me” at the Commonwealth Room on Thursday, September 28, 2023. And, I wasn’t the only one who was mesmerized. With her Marilyn Monroe glamour and a cigar box guitar in hand, she captivated the packed house with a sensual, artful blues performance. She immediately commanded the stage with her smoking rendition of “Bulletproof.” She then tore into a dizzying set of “Wild Heart” and “Better Be Lonely” and a sing-a-long “Chills and Fever.” Never tentative, she took us on an emotional roller coaster ride of hard driving rockin’ blues numbers interspersed with soulful ballads, from “Love Letters” to “Faster” to the hip-shaking “Somebody’s Always Trying.”
Fish comes out of the Kansas City blues scene and now hails from New Orleans, but her style transcends any place or time. She tackled Charley Patton’s 1930 Delta Blues “Jim Lee Blues Pt. 1,” like a master. She followed it with a country blues original “Need You More.” Musically, she took us through punk, rock, blues, and country without attaching any permanent labels to her sound. Her stellar three-piece band comprising drums, bass and keyboards provided her guitar riffs with the depth her 15-song set needed to shake the rafters.
Fish showed off her vocal chops with “Dream Girl” then donned her slide guitar for “Black Wind Howlin’.” Before we could catch our breath, she returned for her encore and dazzled us with an incredible rendition of Screamin’ Jay Hawkins 1956 hit “I Put A Spell On You.” Fish’s version did just that. It didn’t have the macabre, voodoo campiness of the original, instead Fish gave it an intoxicating and seductive, blues flair that took the well-covered classic to unmatched artistic heights. Opener Eric Johanson joined her on stage for some dueling guitar magic on the spirited rocker “Bitch On The Run.” She had the crowd singing the chorus “Right Now, Right Now I’m Feeling It” when she ended her show. Fish is a larger-than-life performer with an arsenal of great songs and a commanding stage presence. To see her live, in an intimate setting, is always a transcending experience. She definitely rocks the blues!
Photo by John NelsonPhoto by John Nelson
New Orleans-based guitarist and Louisiana native, Eric Johanson opened the evening with his blend of heavy metal blues. Accompanied by drums and bass, Johanson started us off with a guitar-ripping “Undertow,” a tune from his new album The Deep and The Dirty. Johanson infused his nine-song set with plenty of material from his latest album including the title track. His rendition of “Live Oak” from his 2017 Burn It Down, delighted his fans with a familiar favorite.
His sound reminds me of British heavy blues guitarists like Alvin Lee or Rory Gallagher who built upon Hendrix’s psychedelic blues in the late ‘60s and early ‘70s. Johanson played “Elysian Fields,” a driving rock number that retains the New Orleans blues flavor. “She Is The Song,” probably my favorite of the set, delivered the kind of soulful blues tempo that I love. He ended with a thunderous, Hendrix-esque, “Don’t Hold Back.” Johanson didn’t hold anything back and he set the pace for an epic night of rockin’ blues. Special thanks to the Utah Blues Society for sponsoring this amazing night.
Fun Fact: The inspiration for this year’s Love Letters Tour is the introspective documentary Love Letters: Samantha Fish Live from New Orleans that first aired on PBS in May. You can view the short film by clicking here.
The Wasatch Mountains are the heart and soul and backbone of Salt Lake City. This rugged range forms the backdrop for our cities. We look up every day and watch with anticipation as the first snow falls and covers the peaks in what we proudly proclaim the “Greatest Snow on Earth.” Exploring the Wasatch in winter is a multi-billion dollar industry with visitors arriving from around the world to ski and board (mainly) and more importantly the proximity and grandeur of the Wasatch. It’s something we locals get to do every day, and at times, sigh, at times we take it for granted. We bemoan storms, canyon traffic and, well, just the general hassle of winter (apart from the moisture, which we eagerly celebrate). This winter, let’s stop all the bellyaching and get up there and enjoy the adventures waiting to be had.
Basecamp #3: Ogden
The secret is out about Utah’s second city and its easy-to-access resorts—Snowbasin, Nordic Valley and Powder Mountain. In fact, even though both are farther from Salt Lake, they are often easier to get to than Park City and the Cottonwoods when snarled up with traffic. Ogden is the yin to Salt Lake’s clean-cut yang. Ogden-ites pride themselves on their town’s outsider status. Redneck rebels, tattooed, bearded hipsters and hard-drinking old timers all mingle on 25th street where you can play at night after a day on the slopes.
TERRAIN: Powder Mountain’s massive size and limited crowds mean you’ll find untracked powder days after a storm. The real adventure lies in Powder Country. Snowcat skiing is available and worth spending a few extra dollars.
PROVISIONS: We love the views and Mexican cuisine at Hidden Lake Lodge. Sundown Pizzeria is another yummy option.
ONE COOL THING: Mountain Hosts offer complimentary tours of the groomed areas of the resort throughout the day. It’s a perfect way to learn about this massive resort and make new friends.
TERRAIN: Long runs, a balanced mix of beginner, intermediate and advanced terrain, plus thin crowds, define Snowbasin. The home of the 2002 Olympic games, Snowbasin was revamped in 1998 to include two gondolas and a high-speed quad.
PROVISIONS: We can’t get enough of the 360° views and gigantic fireplace at the John Paul Lodge.
ONE COOL THING: The bathrooms, yes, bathrooms at Snowbasin are shockingly luxurious, including sitting rooms, marble tile, bronze chandeliers, wood inlay details and impeccable cleanliness.
Bathrooms at Snowbasin Resort Day Lodge. Photo Brian Smyer / Courtesy of Snowbasin
TERRAIN: Nordic Valley packs a wide variety of terrain into a growing but still feels un-crowded, space. About half of the terrain is intermediate. A terrain park packed with features helps keep things interesting. Alpine Lift delivers advanced runs, including Chainsaw and Falling Star, while beginners can build confidence on Old Barn Run.
PROVISIONS: Relax, warm up and grab a bite at The Grill, which offers BBQ, pizza, grilled items and sandwiches. For more options, head to Ogden or the Shooting Star Saloon in Huntsville (the oldest bar in Utah).
ONE COOL THING: There’s more powder to be had after dark at Nordic Valley so skip the après and try night skiing instead. Night skiing at Nordic Valley runs until 7 p.m. Monday through Wednesday and 8 p.m. Thursday through Saturday.
Paige Collett never intended to start a canning company. She fell into the food world with a weekend job helping run the Wasatch Front Farmers Markets as a college student. “It was the funniest community of people to get involved with,” she says. “Just tons of creative people working hard. My parents were self-employed. So I think I’ve always had a lot of respect for people doing that.” When she started Cache Canning & Ferments, “it was meant to be just a little side gig when I started doing my booth at the farmers’ markets. But by the time I graduated college, it was busy enough that I just decided to keep going until it didn’t make sense anymore. And here we are; this is my ninth season.” And it still makes sense.
Paige grew up with a family vegetable garden at her grandmother’s house. We’re talking big. “I remember in middle school, I realized that not all of my friends went to their grandma’s house to work in the garden every weekend,” she says. “When you have a massive garden like that, you learn to can and preserve because there is always too much. My grandparents grew up and the era of the Depression and believed in saving everything. So learned how to can when I was young. As I got older, I realized not everybody knew how. I thought it was an interesting skill to have.” And Paige’s skills are indeed interesting. Shaped by her parent’s entrepreneurism and her grandparent’s mad garden skills, Paige has carved out her blend of traditional preservation methods with an innovative eye for flavor in a jar.
With the recent interest in slower living and the cottage core trend brought on by current events, canning and fermenting have seen a resurgence. There are entire communities (online and otherwise) built around preserving food. From canning clubs, fermentation forums, and community canning centers opening back up, it is more than a fad. “I don’t know what it is about canning and fermenting that brings people together like that,” she says. “Maybe it’s just sharing the food that you’ve made.”
Photo courtesy Paige Collett
Sharing her jars of pickled veggies and jams brings Paige a lot of joy. Another joyful moment in her journey as an entrepreneur came earlier this year. She recently moved to Boulder, Utah. And with the move came a new adventure—opening a rustic shop to sell her preserves, art and goods from other local producers. Announcing the new location on Instagram, Paige writes, “I always knew my next step with this business would be opening a storefront, but in my mind, it was several years down the road. Well, today, on a whim, I signed a lease on this cute little building in Boulder, Utah. This is a risk, deciding to take a store on, but when you live in a town of just 200 people, you cannot let opportunities pass you by. You must pivot and spring into action, taking advantage of any small thing that comes your way. It’s how I’ve always run this business, and it has (almost) always paid off.”
Whether you find her pickles in local stores in Salt Lake City, like Central 9th Market or Hello!Bulk Markets, at the farmers’ markets or in her shop in Boulder, you can reliably find freshly made, seasonal produce bottled up safely with skill and flavor. Look for dill and jalapeno pickled carrots, lemon and ginger golden beets, bread and butter onions, and all the ‘krauts. Oh, and lots of jam, applesauce and mustard. Not to mention the best pickled garlic, which in turn makes for the best Bloody Mary garnish, trust me.
Photos courtesy Paige Collett
Safety First. Then tradition. Then creativity.
When asked for canning tips, Paige says, “Take a class. There’s a lot of bad or outdated information out there. We’ve learned a lot about food safety over the years. So updating your canning method from what your grandma taught you is important.” You don’t want to mess around with anything risky with canning and germs. When it comes to fermenting, Paige’s advice is almost the opposite. “Fermentation can be intimidating for people. There are so many unknowns with natural fermentation. Even if you follow a recipe, sometimes your batch gets messed up for unknown reasons. So my best advice for fermentation is to get started and do the batches. You can read about it all you want, but you won’t get good at it until you get in there with your hands, do it a bunch, and mess up a lot. And then you just have to keep trying.”
Some additional tips and resources for canning and fermenting:
• Make sure that your recipes are from legitimate sources. There are so many online recipes that give bad or dangerous advice.
• Follow your recipes closely. Changing the amount of sugar or the ratio of salt can not only change the outcome but can also impact the safety and shelf life.
• Pay attention to altitude. Here in Utah, our higher altitude means water boils at a different temp, translating to longer processing times.
• Pay attention to acidity and pH levels. Get a good pH meter so you can check the final batch and ensure you hit the pH you need. Paige does this with every batch and sends the in-development products she sells for 3rd party testing.
The gold standard online reference for canning and preserving is the National Center for Home Food Preservation.
Photo courtesy Paige Collett
Talking about what a canning day looks like, Paige describes it as starting pretty early or working into the night. “I head into the kitchen, and the first thing is a ton of veg prep. It’s just like peeling and chopping for several hours. It’s a little tedious. I listen to a lot of podcasts and a lot of audiobooks. I’m by myself. I’m a bit of an introvert, so it’s nice alone time. And I wouldn’t be into this job if I didn’t at least enjoy tedium. After hours and hours of peeling and chopping, the actual canning doesn’t take as long as the prep. Then I wash and fill jars and send them through the canners for the rest of the day. Everything goes to the shop afterward, where I do all the labeling while I’m there.”
Stop by the store in Boulder, Utah, at 842 Utah Highway 12. The shop is open Thurs-Sun, from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. (ish). But do note the sign on her door that reads: “If I’m not here when I say, I hope you’ll forgive me. Boulder is like that sometimes. Often I hike much further than I intended, and sometimes I take off early to catch the sunset with a view. It’s not because I don’t love you, it’s just that I love outside more. I hope you get outside today, too.”
so you moved to Utah and you’re like, “Mom, the drivers here are THE WORST.” And your mom is like, “Are you going to turn Mormon?” That last part is up to you but meanwhile let us set you straight on the rules of the road in the Beehive State.
Yellow lights: More of an option here in Utah. You need to get to your date with utahisrad82. If you have to stop at a red light, for some reason, you can text utahisrad82 and let them know that you’ll “BRT.” Don’t worry about when the light turns green. Finish your text. We’ll wait.
Turn signals: These are optional and more of a question, really. Like, “Hey I was thinking about coming over into your lane as indicated by this blinky light. May I?” No. You may not.
Four-way stops:Driver’s ed was sooo long ago. Who can even remember how they are supposed to work? Just treat them like a game of chicken.
Merging:Under no circumstances let anyone in. You have to win at all costs. We hear tell about something called a “zipper.” This a myth perpetuated by carpet baggers from back east, somewhere.
Left-hand turns:If you are proceeding through the intersection and a driver turning left misjudges the distance and turns in front of you, DO NOT reduce speed. Make sure you almost, but don’t quite, T-bone them to help them understand what a crappy driver they are. They know what they did.
Roundabouts:These came from somewhere back east or something, Europe? We don’t know how to use these. Let the spirit guide you.
Pedestrians:Why are you even walking? If for some reason you are (are you a Poor?), just realize you are invisible to the people in the giant death-dealing metal boxes who are late for Tinder dates. Those orange flags at the crosswalks are invisible too. But keep waving them like a you’re a signalman on the deck of a clipper ship. It’s funny.
Distance:Just get right up on the bumper of the car in front you. That way they will know you are there.
Speed limits: Either 15 mph more than what the sign says or 15 less. Those signs with the numbers are really just helpful suggestions and an opportunity to practice your basic arithmetic skills.
Speed:Be sure to match the speed of the driver next to you to create a “wedge of self-righteousness” for the drivers behind you. (Thanks for the tip, Dave Hatch). Bonus if you can hang out in the blind spot of the driver next to you.
Cyclists: Are jerks. Buzz them and remember that for you the risk is only a broken side mirror. For them, it’s a potential trip to the hospital and/or death. Optional: Yell, “get a car!” as you make them poop their spandex shorts.
Passing lanes:Huh? All the lanes belong to you. Pick the one that feels right and just hang out. The people behind you will go around and glare at you as they pass. Ignore that.
For most of the two-plus decades that I have called Utah home, my consideration for Idaho really didn’t extend much beyond its most famous ski area, the posh Sun Valley Resort, and the non-Utah half of Bear Lake. Lately, however, I’ve gotten to know the Potato State a little better, particularly its rural southeastern corner—a beautifully rugged landscape ripe for adventuresome nature bathing. Following are highlights of three must-do and-see destinations just over Utah’s northern border: Maple Grove Hot Springs, City of Rocks National Reserve/Castle Rocks State Park and Minnetonka Cave. All of these destinations are reachable within a three-hour drive from Salt Lake City.
City of Rocks National Reserve, Almo, photo visit Idaho
Serenity Springs Eternal
Tucked along the Bear River’s Oneida Narrows Reservoir, Maple Grove Hot Springs & Retreat Center is 45 acres of nature-infused tranquility. There, you’ll find summer camp-chic accommodations, sweeping mountain-meets-river views and, of course, the natural, mineral-infused hot springs: two swimming-pool-sized soaking pools just outside the River House check-in/locker room building and three smaller, stone-lined pools, situated along lit, flagstone walkways. Besides soaking, things to do at Maple Grove include swimming or paddling in the river, working out the kinks in a yoga class or, as part of the owners’ mission to raise mental health awareness, taking part in the center’s monthly suicide prevention trainings.
Hiking at Castle Rocks State Park near Almo, photo visit Idaho
Surreal City
On the bucolic approach to City of Rocks National Reserve/Castle Rocks State Park, sweeping sageland gives way to fairytale-like valley filled with granite spires that reach toward the sky like giant gnarled fingers. Though these side-by-side recreation areas are a climber’s mecca—just shy of 1,000 rock-climbing routes have been established there—non-climbing families will find plenty to do in the surreal and stunningly beautiful landscape there. Dirt roads throughout both “The City,” as it is known for short, and Castle Rocks lead to trailheads accessing hiking, mountain biking and horseback riding trails that wind through and around the rock formations, including a section of the California National Historic Trail. Pitch your tent at one of the many campsites inside the Reserve ($14 per night); larger sites suitable for both tent camping and RVs, can be found at Castle Rocks’ Smoky Mountain Campground ($31 per night) which also features paved roads, a shower house and flush toilets. Advance and same-day camping reservations for both areas can be made at reserveamerica.com. Day use in The City is free and $7 at Castle Rocks. After the sun goes down, be sure to look up. Earlier this year, City of Rocks received full certification as an International Dark Sky Park.
Road signs entering into Camp Rock at City of Rocks National Reserve, photos visit IdahoCamping, City Of Rocks National Reserve, Almo
Almo Attractions
The super-cute ranching town of Almo offers the closest services to The City/Castle Rocks. Get your bearings at the City of Rocks National Reserve Visitor Center, located in the center of town (208-824-5901, open 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. daily). Other attractions along the Almo’s main drag include the Durfee Hot Springs, the wood-fired pizza and HUGE canned beer selection at Rock City Mercantile (208-824-5510) and homemade pie at The Outpost Steakhouse (almoinn.com). Though a few other restaurants eke out an existence there, be sure to bring plenty of food with you for your stay. Almo eateries can get crowded on summer weekends (the closest grocery store is about an hour away).
Hiking inside Minnetonka Cave at St. Charles, photo visit Idaho
Over-The-Border Spelunking
What’s better than dipping a toe in Bear Lake’s cool, blue waters on a hot summer day? Taking a tour of the nearby Minnetonka Cave, one of the largest and most impressive karst limestone caves in the U.S. This mind-blowing natural wonder (that stays at a constant 40 degrees all summer long) features nine separate chambers, all beautifully lit, including the 300-feet-wide and 90-feet tall Ballroom.
While every part of the cave’s 90-minute tour is impressive, particularly memorable features include the dense set of slender stalactites called the Soda Straw Ceiling and an enormous stalagmite trio dubbed The Three Sisters.
When you go, bring a jacket and comfortable walking shoes and be ready for a workout: though the distance you’ll cover in the cave is only about half a mile, you’ll climb up and down a daunting 888 stairs in the process.
Minnetonka Cave is open Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day, weather permitting. Make tour reservations in advance at recreation.gov.
courtesy maple grove hot springs
Take the Party Elsewhere
Unlike some other hot springs that attract soakers into tying one on, at Maple Grove, relaxation, reflection and wellness take center stage. Drinking is not allowed in the pools, and neither is nudity. After-dark quiet hours require conversations to diminish to a whisper, both at the pools and around campfires. There’s no cell phone service at Maple Grove and the number of daytime and overnight guests is limited. It’s simply one of those few, rare places where you can go to reboot, immerse yourself in nature and find peace.
photo visit Idaho
Getting There
Maple Grove Hot Springs & Retreat Center is 47 miles north of Logan in Thatcher, Idaho. Take S.R. 91 north from Logan to Preston. From there take S.R. 36 to N. Maple Grove Road and Oneida Narrows Road to the retreat center.
City of Rocks/Castle Rocks State Park: take Interstate 15 north from Salt Lake to Tremonton. There, head west on I-84 to Sublette exit 245 and go west toward Malta, Elba, and Almo. (Google maps may suggest a route along 27 through Oakley, Idaho, which requires driving more than 20 miles on a dirt road.)
Minnetonka Cave is about 90 minutes from Logan through Logan Canyon and past Bear Lake. Take S.R. 89 north to St. Charles. There turn west onto Minnetonka Cave Road and follow it for 8 miles to the lower cave parking lot.
“Um…I don’t knowif I can get up there.” I run my hands over the smooth, granite expanse in front of me for what feels like the tenth time, scanning for something—anything—to hold onto. “No choice but to go up!” my partner calls down to me cheerfully. “All right then,” I mutter to myself and do what I’ve done countless times since I began rock climbing in Utah a little over three years ago: take a deep breath and figure out a way to move up the wall. When I eventually get to the top of the pitch, I am treated to a high-five, breathtaking birds-eye views of Utah’s West Desert and a giddy sense of accomplishment.
My first attempt at Yogini, a route within the remote West Desert’s climbing and bouldering area known as Ibex, is probably pretty unextraordinary to many seasoned rock climbers. This intermediate route would hardly qualify as a warm-up for a climbing superstar like Emily Harrington or Nathaniel Coleman, the Utah native who took silver at the Summer Olympics’ first climbing competition in 2021. But unlike those two and other sinewy 20- and 30-somethings I encounter in the climbing gym and out in the mountains, I have not been climbing since my teens. In fact, I picked up the sport just over three years ago just before I turned 50. And while rock climbing has certainly required much more commitment than other outdoor activities of mine do, the rewards are leaps and bounds ahead of the satisfaction I’ve ever gotten from skiing or riding my bike.
I previously considered rock climbing a fringe sport for the young, super fit and freakishly brave. But when my kids were in grade school, my daughter was invited by a friend to join a week-long summer day camp at the then-new Momentum Climbing Gym in Millcreek. My daughter loved climbing immediately and asked if I’d learn to belay so she could continue climbing after the day camp ended. I did and thought to myself, ‘If I’m going to stand here and belay, I’m going to climb, too.’
The author and others participating in a 2018 Salt Lake Climbing Festival clinic at the Salt Lake Slips, Big Cottonwood Canyon. Photo by Louis Arvelo/SLCA
My first few gym-climbing sessions were, admittedly, terrifying. Until then, my at-height experience was limited to the ski resort chair lift. Moving up a vertical wall for the first time felt much different. Though I was attached to a secure top rope (a rope attached to an anchor at the top of the climb), and my belayer—most often my husband—was using an assisted-braking belay device, it felt like every cell in my body was screaming at me to stop and go down. But with each route I completed, the fear became a little bit more manageable. The more time I spent at the gym, the more that I noticed that my husband and I were far from the only middle-aged beginners there. Seeing climbers who looked like us, scaling walls, made it easier to let go of my age-based self-consciousness and focus on the unique delight of reaching the top of a route on the first try (a la “sending”) and how strong it makes me feel to use what seems like every muscle in my body to get myself to the top of a route.
Eric Bollow, a 54-year-old loan officer from Cottonwood Heights (and dad to a friend my daughter made through climbing), grew up in Utah but had climbed just a few times in high school. But, like me, it wasn’t until the sport gained traction with his daughter that he began climbing in earnest. “I could go on and on about what I love about climbing, but a couple of things include how, as a person who has probably above-normal anxiety, climbing keeps me firmly planted in the moment,” he says. “I also love how much inspiration it’s given me to create new goals and seek out new places to climb.”
After about a year of top-roping in the gym, I decided to take a learn-to-lead class. Sport leading, which involves clipping a rope tied to your harness onto fixed anchors along a route as you ascend a wall, is essential to transitioning from gym to outside climbing. But unlike top-rope climbing, where a fall means descending just a few inches before being caught by your harness, the length of a lead fall is twice the length of the rope between the last clipped bolt and the climber. Leading also requires a skilled and confident lead belayer. Considering all this, lead climbing is often referred to as “getting on the sharp end.” Though learning to lead climb felt a lot like being a newbie all over again, it is also where I’ve realized the biggest rewards of rock climbing. It has increased my trust in myself as well as in others; expanded my grit, both physically and mentally; and helped me better cope with stress in other areas of my life. It’s also introduced me to a community of amazing people I would have probably not met if not for climbing.
The author (right) and Christine Mikel celebrate reaching the summit of Wyoming’s Grand Teton on August 28, 2022. Photo courtesy of Melissa Fields
Stefani Day is a 60-year-old family practice physician living in Salt Lake City and a member of my new-found climbing posse. Stefani also found climbing later in life. “I was in my late 30s when I came to Utah to do my residency,” she says. “On one of our rare days off, one of the other residents I worked with took me and another colleague climbing at the mouth of Parleys Canyon. I absolutely fell in love with it. I love the problem-solving nature of it, figuring out how to get from one hold to the next. I also love the community around climbing. There are not many other activities where you get to spend upwards of six hours or even a whole weekend outside with other people.”
Now, almost four years on from my first gym session and, while I still have lots to learn, I feel like I am making the transition from someone who climbs to being a rock climber. Thanks to the help of a few generous and much more experienced friends, I’ve climbed both close by and farther afield at places I’d never visited as a non-climber, including Maple Canyon, Indian Creek, the Tetons, and the City of Rocks. I certainly have days where I imagine how good I would be now if I had started climbing in my teens, 20s, or even 30s. But I also know that I still have decades of climbing ahead of me. In fact, I wouldn’t be surprised if I was still climbing well after I give up skiing and mountain biking. Rock climbing has illustrated the transformative power of finding and pursuing a new passion, embracing rather than shying away from challenge, and ignoring societal expectations, perceived and otherwise. The rewards I’ve reaped from confronting my fear and pushing my boundaries include gaining an incredible sense of achievement, being welcomed into a super-fun community, and realizing firsthand that age is just a number.
The author lead climbing “Don’t Tell Jonny,” rated 5.10c, near Moosehorn Lake in the Uinta Mountains. Photo courtesy of Chris Brown/The Mountain Guides
Tips for Hitting the Crag, At Any Age
Age aside, the learning curve for rock climbing is much steeper and longer than other outdoor activities (another reason why it’s so rewarding). Following are a few steps I took along my journey from climbing newbie to neophyte.
Find a mentor: My first outdoor climbing session was with Julia Geisler, executive director of the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance. Since then, we’ve climbed together likely dozens if not hundreds of times, building both our friendship and my climbing skills along the way. While a pro like Julia is certainly not a requirement of mentorship, someone with patience, solid technique, and high safety standards is. The only prerequisite of being a mentee is having impeccable belay skills so you can give your teacher a catch while they are sending their project. That and always bringing good crag snacks.
Take a class or hire a guide: The Learn-to-Lead class I took at my climbing gym was one of several formal instruction opportunities I’ve taken advantage of since I started climbing. Others include clinics offered through the Salt Lake Climber’s Alliance Climbing Festival (held annually in August) and hiring a guide. A few well-established local guides include Utah Mountain Adventures, Backcountry Pros, Inspired Summit Adventures, Red River Adventures and White Pine Touring.
The Wasatch Mountains are the heart and soul and backbone of Salt Lake City. This rugged range forms the backdrop for our cities. We look up every day and watch with anticipation as the first snow falls and covers the peaks in what we proudly proclaim the “Greatest Snow on Earth.” Exploring the Wasatch in winter is a multi-billion dollar industry with visitors arriving from around the world to ski and board (mainly) and more importantly the proximity and grandeur of the Wasatch. It’s something we locals get to do every day, and at times, sigh, at times we take it for granted. We bemoan storms, canyon traffic and, well, just the general hassle of winter (apart from the moisture, which we eagerly celebrate). This winter, let’s stop all the bellyaching and get up there and enjoy the adventures waiting to be had.
Basecamp #2: Park City
Park City is a world-renowned ski destination and the home of Park City Mountain (the resort) and Deer Valley, both situated near the actual town of Park City and its lively Historic Main Street and iconic town lift (serving Park City Mountain). Lodging and nightlife abound, drawing visitors from around the world in every season.
THE TERRAIN: Founded by film legend Robert Redford, who named the resort after his iconic turn in Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, Sundance is a dose of the Old West. The resort’s upper reaches are home to its advanced terrain, and there is no better place to be on a powder day than Bishop’s Bowl. The right side is where those who like to cruise will find beautifully groomed runs, and the lifts at the base area are home to varied and interesting beginners’ terrain.
PROVISIONS: The Tree Room is Sundance’s most elegant and award-winning restaurant. Locals from Provo often drive up the canyon just to dine at this restaurant named for the giant tree it was built around. Up on the resort’s highest peak, you can enjoy the views at Bear Claw Cabin while taking a break in this fast-casual lodge.
ONE COOL THING: Robert Redford had the wooden 1890s bar in the Owl Bar packed up and moved from Thermopolis, Wyo. to Sundance. It was once frequented by Butch Cassidy’s Hole in the Wall Gang.
TERRAIN: Deer Valley is known for its perfectly groomed runs and stellar service. With 21 lifts, including 12 high-speed quads, lines are the exception rather than the rule. Head to Flagstaff Mountain for a selection of blue cruisers. Sorry snowboarders, Deer Valley is a ski-only resort.
PROVISIONS: Dining is a significant part of the Deer Valley experience. The Alps-inspired Fireside Dining at the Empire Canyon Lodge is a guest favorite. Don’t miss Deer Valley’s famous turkey chili available at the Silver Lake and Snow Park lodges.
ONE COOL THING: Kids receive special attention at Deer Valley. Ski school is available for ages three and up, while state-licensed childcare options are available from two months of age.
TERRAIN: Variety and size set Park City apart from other ski areas. It sits on 7,300 acres, including 300+ trails, 41 lifts, terrain parks and eight half-pipes. The mountain is divided into two base areas, Park City and Canyons Village. For blue runs, there are a lot of great choices off King Kong lift. Powderhounds will find the goods off Thaynes and Motherload Express.
PROVISIONS: Try The Farm for elegant dining, including regionally sourced ingredients. On the mountain, you can’t beat the views over fondue from Lookout Cabin.
ONE COOL THING: Visit the ski-in/ski-out High West Distillery at the base of Park City’s Quittin’ Time run.
The Story Behind Deer Valley’s Infamous Ski Run Solid Muldoon
It was one of the most famous hoaxes of the era. In 1877, using a mixture of ground bones, blood, meat, mortar and plaster, a Colorado trickster named George Hullmolded molded a missing-link man, kiln-fired his creation, then half-buried him in a hillside. Hull’s paid associate, William Conant “discovered” him, and the whole nation wanted a peek at the “petrified man.” The oversized figure was touring the country when someone likened him to a famous wrestler, William Muldoon, nicknamed “The Solid Muldoon.” The name stuck. It’s rumored that P.T. Barnum was in on the hoax, ginning up hype by “offering” $20,000 for the creation. Finally, The New York Times dug up the truth and now all that’s left of the Solid Muldoon is a popular groomer near Deer Valley’s Carpenter Express lift. — Heather Hayes
