“Um…I don’t know if I can get up there.” I run my hands over the smooth, granite expanse in front of me for what feels like the tenth time, scanning for something—anything—to hold onto. “No choice but to go up!” my partner calls down to me cheerfully. “All right then,” I mutter to myself and do what I’ve done countless times since I began rock climbing in Utah a little over three years ago: take a deep breath and figure out a way to move up the wall. When I eventually get to the top of the pitch, I am treated to a high-five, breathtaking birds-eye views of Utah’s West Desert and a giddy sense of accomplishment.

My first attempt at Yogini, a route within the remote West Desert’s climbing and bouldering area known as Ibex, is probably pretty unextraordinary to many seasoned rock climbers. This intermediate route would hardly qualify as a warm-up for a climbing superstar like Emily Harrington or Nathaniel Coleman, the Utah native who took silver at the Summer Olympics’ first climbing competition in 2021. But unlike those two and other sinewy 20- and 30-somethings I encounter in the climbing gym and out in the mountains, I have not been climbing since my teens. In fact, I picked up the sport just over three years ago just before I turned 50. And while rock climbing has certainly required much more commitment than other outdoor activities of mine do, the rewards are leaps and bounds ahead of the satisfaction I’ve ever gotten from skiing or riding my bike.

I previously considered rock climbing a fringe sport for the young, super fit and freakishly brave. But when my kids were in grade school, my daughter was invited by a friend to join a week-long summer day camp at the then-new Momentum Climbing Gym in Millcreek. My daughter loved climbing immediately and asked if I’d learn to belay so she could continue climbing after the day camp ended. I did and thought to myself, ‘If I’m going to stand here and belay, I’m going to climb, too.’

My first few gym-climbing sessions were, admittedly, terrifying. Until then, my at-height experience was limited to the ski resort chair lift. Moving up a vertical wall for the first time felt much different. Though I was attached to a secure top rope (a rope attached to an anchor at the top of the climb), and my belayer—most often my husband—was using an assisted-braking belay device, it felt like every cell in my body was screaming at me to stop and go down. But with each route I completed, the fear became a little bit more manageable. The more time I spent at the gym, the more that I noticed that my husband and I were far from the only middle-aged beginners there. Seeing climbers who looked like us, scaling walls, made it easier to let go of my age-based self-consciousness and focus on the unique delight of reaching the top of a route on the first try (a la “sending”) and how strong it makes me feel to use what seems like every muscle in my body to get myself to the top of a route. 

Eric Bollow, a 54-year-old loan officer from Cottonwood Heights (and dad to a friend my daughter made through climbing), grew up in Utah but had climbed just a few times in high school. But, like me, it wasn’t until the sport gained traction with his daughter that he began climbing in earnest. “I could go on and on about what I love about climbing, but a couple of things include how, as a person who has probably above-normal anxiety, climbing keeps me firmly planted in the moment,” he says. “I also love how much inspiration it’s given me to create new goals and seek out new places to climb.”

After about a year of top-roping in the gym, I decided to take a learn-to-lead class. Sport leading, which involves clipping a rope tied to your harness onto fixed anchors along a route as you ascend a wall, is essential to transitioning from gym to outside climbing. But unlike top-rope climbing, where a fall means descending just a few inches before being caught by your harness, the length of a lead fall is twice the length of the rope between the last clipped bolt and the climber. Leading also requires a skilled and confident lead belayer. Considering all this, lead climbing is often referred to as “getting on the sharp end.” Though learning to lead climb felt a lot like being a newbie all over again, it is also where I’ve realized the biggest rewards of rock climbing. It has increased my trust in myself as well as in others; expanded my grit, both physically and mentally; and helped me better cope with stress in other areas of my life. It’s also introduced me to a community of amazing people I would have probably not met if not for climbing.

Stefani Day is a 60-year-old family practice physician living in Salt Lake City and a member of my new-found climbing posse. Stefani also found climbing later in life. “I was in my late 30s when I came to Utah to do my residency,” she says. “On one of our rare days off, one of the other residents I worked with took me and another colleague climbing at the mouth of Parleys Canyon. I absolutely fell in love with it. I love the problem-solving nature of it, figuring out how to get from one hold to the next. I also love the community around climbing. There are not many other activities where you get to spend upwards of six hours or even a whole weekend outside with other people.”

Now, almost four years on from my first gym session and, while I still have lots to learn, I feel like I am making the transition from someone who climbs to being a rock climber. Thanks to the help of a few generous and much more experienced friends, I’ve climbed both close by and farther afield at places I’d never visited as a non-climber, including Maple Canyon, Indian Creek, the Tetons, and the City of Rocks. I certainly have days where I imagine how good I would be now if I had started climbing in my teens, 20s, or even 30s. But I also know that I still have decades of climbing ahead of me. In fact, I wouldn’t be surprised if I was still climbing well after I give up skiing and mountain biking. Rock climbing has illustrated the transformative power of finding and pursuing a new passion, embracing rather than shying away from challenge, and ignoring societal expectations, perceived and otherwise. The rewards I’ve reaped from confronting my fear and pushing my boundaries include gaining an incredible sense of achievement, being welcomed into a super-fun community, and realizing firsthand that age is just a number.  

Tips for Hitting the Crag, At Any Age

Age aside, the learning curve for rock climbing is much steeper and longer than other outdoor activities (another reason why it’s so rewarding). Following are a few steps I took along my journey from climbing newbie to neophyte.

Find a mentor: My first outdoor climbing session was with Julia Geisler, executive director of the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance. Since then, we’ve climbed together likely dozens if not hundreds of times, building both our friendship and my climbing skills along the way. While a pro like Julia is certainly not a requirement of mentorship, someone with patience, solid technique, and high safety standards is. The only prerequisite of being a mentee is having impeccable belay skills so you can give your teacher a catch while they are sending their project. That and always bringing good crag snacks.  

Take a class or hire a guide: The Learn-to-Lead class I took at my climbing gym was one of several formal instruction opportunities I’ve taken advantage of since I started climbing. Others include clinics offered through the Salt Lake Climber’s Alliance Climbing Festival (held annually in August) and hiring a guide. A few well-established local guides include Utah Mountain Adventures, Backcountry Pros, Inspired Summit Adventures, Red River Adventures and White Pine Touring.

The Wasatch Mountains are the heart and soul and backbone of Salt Lake City. This rugged range forms the backdrop for our cities. We look up every day and watch with anticipation as the first snow falls and covers the peaks in what we proudly proclaim the “Greatest Snow on Earth.” Exploring the Wasatch in winter is a multi-billion dollar industry with visitors arriving from around the world to ski and board (mainly) and more importantly the proximity and grandeur of the Wasatch. It’s something we locals get to do every day, and at times, sigh, at times we take it for granted. We bemoan storms, canyon traffic and, well, just the general hassle of winter (apart from the moisture, which we eagerly celebrate). This winter, let’s stop all the bellyaching and get up there and enjoy the adventures waiting to be had. 

Basecamp #2: Park City

Park City is a world-renowned ski destination and the home of Park City Mountain (the resort) and Deer Valley, both situated near the actual town of Park City and its lively Historic Main Street and iconic town lift (serving Park City Mountain). Lodging and nightlife abound, drawing visitors from around the world in every season.

Sundance Mountain Resort

Snowfall 300” • Acreage 450 • Vertical 2,150’

THE TERRAIN: Founded by film legend Robert Redford, who named the resort after his iconic turn in Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, Sundance is a dose of the Old West. The resort’s upper reaches are home to its advanced terrain, and there is no better place to be on a powder day than Bishop’s Bowl. The right side is where those who like to cruise will find beautifully groomed runs, and the lifts at the base area are home to varied and interesting beginners’ terrain.

PROVISIONS: The Tree Room is Sundance’s most elegant and award-winning restaurant. Locals from Provo often drive up the canyon just to dine at this restaurant named for the giant tree it was built around. Up on the resort’s highest peak, you can enjoy the views at Bear Claw Cabin while taking a break in this fast-casual lodge.

ONE COOL THING: Robert Redford had the wooden 1890s bar in the Owl Bar packed up and moved from Thermopolis, Wyo. to Sundance. It was once frequented by Butch Cassidy’s Hole in the Wall Gang. 

Deer Valley Resort

Snowfall 300” • Acreage 2,026 • Vertical 3,000

TERRAIN: Deer Valley is known for its perfectly groomed runs and stellar service. With 21 lifts, including 12 high-speed quads, lines are the exception rather than the rule. Head to Flagstaff Mountain for a selection of blue cruisers. Sorry snowboarders, Deer Valley is a ski-only resort.

PROVISIONS: Dining is a significant part of the Deer Valley experience. The Alps-inspired Fireside Dining at the Empire Canyon Lodge is a guest favorite. Don’t miss Deer Valley’s famous turkey chili available at the Silver Lake and Snow Park lodges.

ONE COOL THING: Kids receive special attention at Deer Valley. Ski school is available for ages three and up, while state-licensed childcare options are available from two months of age. 

Park City Mountain

Snowfall 360” • Acreage  7,300 • Vertical 3,200’

TERRAIN: Variety and size set Park City apart from other ski areas. It sits on 7,300 acres, including 300+ trails, 41 lifts, terrain parks and eight half-pipes. The mountain is divided into two base areas, Park City and Canyons Village. For blue runs, there are a lot of great choices off King Kong lift. Powderhounds will find the goods off Thaynes and Motherload Express.

PROVISIONS: Try The Farm for elegant dining, including regionally sourced ingredients. On the mountain, you can’t beat the views over fondue from Lookout Cabin.

ONE COOL THING: Visit the ski-in/ski-out High West Distillery at the base of Park City’s Quittin’ Time run. 

The Story Behind Deer Valley’s Infamous Ski Run Solid Muldoon

 It was one of the most famous hoaxes of the era. In 1877, using a mixture of ground bones, blood, meat, mortar and plaster, a Colorado trickster named George Hullmolded molded a missing-link man, kiln-fired his creation, then half-buried him in a hillside. Hull’s paid associate, William Conant “discovered” him, and the whole nation wanted a peek at the “petrified man.” The oversized figure was touring the country when someone likened him to a famous wrestler, William Muldoon, nicknamed “The Solid Muldoon.” The name stuck. It’s rumored that P.T. Barnum was in on the hoax, ginning up hype by “offering” $20,000 for the creation. Finally, The New York Times dug up the truth and now all that’s left of the Solid Muldoon is a popular groomer near Deer Valley’s Carpenter Express lift. — Heather Hayes

Explore more of the Wasatch Mountains from the Salt Lake City base camp and the Odgen Basecamp.

• Related: Deer Valley and Park City make Top 10 in SKI magazine’s 2024 Reader’s Poll.
• Related: Our Favorite Salt Lake Ski Resorts
• Related: Deer Valley’s History as a Food Destination