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Zoo Brew Serves Up A Good (Grown-Up) Time.

By Arts & Culture, Eat & Drink
I’ll be honest: The only reason I agreed to go to Zoo Brew was because I was promised there would be no children there.

I ride my bike past Salt Lake’s Hogle Zoo all the time, yet have never harbored a desire to go inside their gates. You see, zoos have animals, and I’m not talking about the ones in cages. Oh, no—I’m talking about the feral masses of small humans, with their temper tantrums, their boogers, their yelling, and their completely oblivious parents. The monkeys are usually better behaved than most children at the zoo and let us remember monkeys throw their poo.

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I know my sentiment is in the minority in “be fruitful and multiply” Utah, so I simply live and let live—the kids can have the zoo, and I go play with other types of animals behind the Zion Curtain. It’s cool.

But every now and then, the gods smile on the grownups and create an event like Zoo Brew, the Hogle Zoo’s after-hours event for adults only. For $10.95, the 21-and-over crowd gets an all-access pass to the zoo.

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Cash bars, pouring Squatters beers and various wines, are stationed next to major animal exhibits, allowing patrons to imbibe with the lions, tigers, and bears (oh, my!). Food vendors elevate their offerings for the event to fit the tastebuds of the crowd, creating herb-marinated chicken or mac n’ cheese flavored with smoked pork belly and jalapeno. (Worry not, churro fans: your favorite zoo food indulgences of childhood are available as well.) Stars of the Utah Opera sing arias while seals glide and elephants wave their trunks in appreciation.

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The event serves as more than just playtime for grown-ups: All proceeds from Zoo Brew go directly to conservation efforts around the world. Each Zoo Brew focuses on a particular animal in need of attention due to endangered status or threatened habitats—recent events have toasted the tortoise, tipped a long neck for giraffes, and poured ale for the apes.

Only one Zoo Brew remains for 2016—Wednesday Sept. 21, which is sold out. (The child-free zoo is a popular concept, as it turns out.) But change-of-plan ticketholders have been known to unload their tickets on Hogle’s Zoo Brew’s Facebook page, especially in the week leading up to the event.

For those who really want to go all out, tickets are available for Zoo Rendezvous, another adults-only event Thursday, Sept. 15. The $150 all-inclusive ticket includes unlimited samplings from local chefs and bartenders, live music, photo booths, and a silent auction. For more information, visit zoorendezvous.com.

First Taste: Mollie and Ollie

By Eat & Drink
“Touch screen to begin.”

 

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I guess that’s no worse than “Hi, I’m Kyle and I’ll be serving you tonight.”

The kiosks at Mollie and Ollie, a chic and shiny “fast casual” restaurant in the funky old Bay Leaf space on Main are just like the ones at the airport—or at the newest McDonald’s. The space is as inviting as on OR and the name was inspired by the owner’s goldfish.goldfish

So you choose from the first screen: Classic Breakfast Bowls (oatmeal, yogurt, fruit); Classic Scrambles; Classic Salads; Classic Stir Frys; Sides; Beverages; Dessert. Each time you make a choice, you’re asked to make another one until you’ve completed your dish. The screen shows your total (our stir frys were about $10 apiece.)

Then the machine asks if you want to leave a tip. Um, no.

The pitch is you get clean food from “carefully selected suppliers, growers and farmers who are environmentally responsible, humane and where possible, local.” But aside from touting organic eggs and a lot of kale, the menu doesn’t actually give any detail about sourcing—proteins are described as “slow roasted,” “honey brined” and “citrus poached” which has nothing to do with environmental responsibility, or anything, really.

We waited fifteen minutes, then a person wearing a “Be Nice” hat delivered our bowls, in much the same manner that I set down our cat’s bowl. Both stir frys emitted a distinct and unpleasant scorched aroma which worsened when we tried a bite. We postulated several reasons the food smelled the way it did—maybe the cooks hadn’t cleaned the griddle or wok sufficiently? Maybe the griddle was too dry for the fat-free proteins?

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But there was no Kyle to circle back to check if we liked our food. So we left our full bowls and drove over to Tonyburger where we ordered and were served burgers and fries. There’s nothing like a raspberry milkshake to reset your tastebuds.

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Note on “First Taste” reviews:

I reserve the right to write about a restaurant from the day they open—if they are charging customers full price for food and wine. I know a new restaurant has “kinks” to work out—the kitchen may still be tweaking some dishes, for instance. Tweaking never stops in a good kitchen. That takes time, but it shouldn’t happen on the paying customers’ dime.

As for “kinks” like allowing inedibly scorched food to leave the kitchen—that’s beyond the pale and argues against the experience being a “one-off.”

First Bites are followed by second visits.

Future Nostalgia: Jackson Browne at Red Butte

By Arts & Culture, Music

Jackson Browne (who knew his first name is Clyde???) as our music writer Christie Marcy pointed out, wrote the sound track for the seventies, a decade which everyone who lived in wishes was the sixties. So, he was part of the sound track of my youth. A tricky subject.

I’m a food and wine writer, not a music writer. But sometimes time trumps expertise so I was SLmag’s designated hitter at Red Butte last night where Browne and his incredibly competent band played an unusual two-act show—no opener, just a 15-minute intermission.

This was a silver-back crowd; chardonnay was out in full force. But we squeezed our blanket into a space next to a 17-year-old redhead. She was there with her parents, Australians who were in SLC for the USANA-fest and she had been raised listening to Jackson Browne. They were sitting back on the VIP terrace but she wanted to sit up close.

At 7:36, Brown said hello, slid onto a piano bench and commenced playing “Rock me on the Water.”

At 7:40, the crowd put down their wineglasses and started batting around a beachball.

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From there, the band went on to play stuff from the new album, Standing in the Breach, interspersed with singalong oldies like “Fountain of Sorrow,” a lovely lyric covered by Joan Baez on Diamonds and Rust, one of the most poignantly nostalgic albums ever.

And that’s the heart of Jackson Browne: So many of his songs have a yearning melody at their core, highly hummable, easy to song along with (to the 8-track in your car) with plenty of the creeping country twang that finally came out of rock ‘n roll’s closet in the 70s, spreading from the folk clubs in Browne’s SoCal home and the boot-scooting bars in Austin to everywhere else. 

In the 70s, his perfect lyrics ached with a nostalgia for a past that hadn’t yet happened, the gestalt emotion at that time. It turns out, it was nostalgia for a past that never happened. Say a prayer for the pretenders, captured in Clyde’s song of the same name.

We were all so much older then; we’re younger than that now.

Browne himself is still the lean Southern California folksinger guy—gaunt but more groomed than a hippie, occupying his slightly uncomfortable place on the spectrum between Bob Dylan and Paul Simon, and verging into Huey Lewis when he slips into the commercialism he’s capable of but lyrically eschews. He’s an old-school pro, moving easily from piano to several guitars and back again and giving affectionate credit to his bandmates.

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Still, an occasional chord makes you think, if things had gone a little bit wrong, Jackson Browne could be playing piano in a motel lounge. If things had gone a little bit right, his audience would be living off the grid instead of driving BMW SUVs.

Browne’s youthful plaintiveness has matured into political statement. That’s happened to a lot of us. Instead of singing about hitchhiking out of Winslow, Arizona, Browne is bemoaning the environmental devastation caused by by fossil fuels. Oddly, his lyrics sound more optimistic now. Standing in the Breach says in the title track, “You don’t know why, but you still try/For the world you wish to see.”

Last night at Red Butte, the well-heeled audience (Red Butte tickets are not inexpensive; this is not a hoi-polloi venue) danced along to “The Pretender,” the anthem of the aging middle class before they were aging or middle class. That album came out in 1976, the year I left Austin. How did he know we would all become pretenders, “caught between the longing for love and the struggle for the legal tender?” Why don’t we care that we did? The—can I use the word poignant again?—contrast between the listeners’ memories conjured by the songs and the present reality was painful.

But the response to Browne’s music seemed to rekindle the idealism of youth—surprising the singer, who seemed almost bemused by the enthusiasm of the audience as they sang along and raised their hands in time with lyrics from the new album, “You know the change the world needs now/Is there, in everyone.” And the band responded to the audience’s energy with more passionate playing. 

We were his audience all along. He’s always been singing “For Everyman.”

Preview: Heart Keeps Beating

By Arts & Culture, Music

Ann Wilson admits that Heart, the band she leads and co-founded with her sister Nancy, didn’t think much of the news that the powerhouse Seattle rockers were being inducted in the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame back in 2013. In hindsight, though, she’s come to realize the honor did change some things—particularly how other people treated the long-running group.

“We were kind of cynical, like ‘Yeah, yeah, we’re a working band. Go ahead and put some letters behind our name. We’re a working band. We’ll juust go back to work the next day,’ Wilson said in an interview with Salt Lake magazine. “But after the induction, it’s like having a masters or PhD. All of the sudden, people treat you differently. Whether it’s true or not, people suddenly start taking you more seriously. It’s an interesting thing.”

It’s also probably a frustrating thing for the Wilson sisters, who have been making waves in the rock ‘n’ roll boys club since they broke through 40 years ago with the hit album Dreamboat Annie, and then dominated MTV and radio through the 80s and early 90s with a series of hits. Who cares what a museum says about you when you have that kind of track record? But Wilson is far from bitter. Rather, she comes across in conversation as a person thankful to still be able to get on stage and rock with her band to thousands of adoring fans.

This summer, Heart is headlining a tour that includes fellow Rock Hall of Famers Joan Jett and the Blackhearts and Cheap Trick, and Wilson notes that her band has toured plenty with both. She says to expect plenty of the classic hits from all the bands, like Heart’s “Barracuda,” Jett’s “I Love Rock and Roll” or Cheap Trick’s “Surrender.” And she also notes that all three acts are still writing and recording new music, even if people don’t buy albums like they used to.

Heart’s new album is Beautiful Broken, a searing set of new original tunes and some re-recorded old songs that the Wilsons felt never were recorded properly. The result is classic Heart, rocking heavy one moment and soaring with gorgeous ballads the next. The title track and “Two” both make it into the band’s set on the summer tour, but Wilson knows the audience wants to revel in the oldies for the most part.

“There’s just enough new stuff and just enough hits,” Wilson says. “People who come to the show … they like hearing the really exciting new stuff, but if you just went off and did 10 new songs, they’d all be out there buying t-shirts.”

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Wilson sees the different eras of Heart’s history as “whole different lives” in her mind. The 70s were great because Heart made their way out of their Seattle hometown onto the radio and the road. The 80s was a commercially successful time, but the industry was “a lot more clamped-down in terms of what radio would play and not play. They didn’t want experimentation. I’ve never seen a time when naturalness, whether it be female or male, was placed at a lower premium. It got so into the hair and shoulder pads and corsets and stiletto heels. Like you were playing in a costume drama, kind of.”

The 90s might have been the most musically satisfying era, she says, when Heart went on hiatus and the Wilson’s created the Lovemongers, a side project with a penchant for Led Zeppelin covers. “That was awesome,” Wilson says. “No expectations. Just fun.”

No matter the era, the Wilson sisters were typically some of the only women finding success in a male-dominated genre. Wilson thinks it’s easier today for young women to break through, but it’s still a challenge.

“It IS still male-dominated,” Wilson says. “But it’s getting closer [to equality] than when we came up. It’s closer than I’ve ever seen it. It’s just a matter of women being out there and getting good. I don’t think men want to keep women down or anything like that. I just think there aren’t as many women who are good. Yet. But they’re getting there. They ARE getting there.”

No doubt a few more will be inspired seeing Heart on Monday in Utah.

 

Heart, Joan Jett and the Blackhearts and Cheap Trick play West Valley City’s Usana Amphitheatre on Monday, Aug. 29, at 6:30 p.m. Tickets range from $30.50 to $90.50 and are available through Smith’s Tix outlets.

Waldorf-Astoria Park City toasts the bees

By Eat & Drink

Celebrate the honeybee with the Waldorf Astoria, Park City

Somehow, the two experiences don’t jibe: a sophisticated seated lunch at Powder, the restaurant in Waldorf-Astoria, Park City, and a trek up a hill through thigh-high grass and brush to a stack of beehives sheltered by some adolescent aspens.

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But the first course of our lunch was honey-basted pork bellyhoneypork

and the last course was fresh fruit drizzled with warm honey honeyfruit

and the beehives on the hill were the source of that honey.

This is the new luxury.

High thread-count sheets flat-screen TVs in the bathroom are great, but the word “luxury” implies an inimitable experience and that comes from authenticity. Powder’s Executive Chef Ryker Brown tends to the Waldorf hives and harvests the honey and honeycomb to use in the menu and even the cocktails in the restaurant.

(Honey, of course, is the least of what honeybees provide for the American table. Honeybees are responsible for pollinating many of our major food crops. To put it in the terms our culture best understands: Honeybees contribute $14.6 billion towards the American economy. Blueberries, cherries and almonds are almost completely bee-dependent.)

Chef Ryker Brown knows all this, and he understands the new direction of American cooking, too. Keep an eye on this space for more about that, later.

Meanwhile, shake up the Waldorf’s honey cocktail and raise a glass to the honeybees.

Rhubarb Bee’s Knees

    1. oz. Beehive Jack Rabbit Gin
  1. oz. Honey water
  1. oz. Fresh lemon juice

3 dashes Fee Bros. Rhubarb bitters.

Stir and mix over ice.

Honey Water: Heat 1 cup water with 1 Tbsp. Honey in microwave. Stir to dissolve. Let cool before using in the cocktail, but sip it as is for a soothing nighttime drink.