Because who you travel with is almost as important as where you're going.
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Photo by Kirk Marshall
Helper is a strange name for a small town, but it actually makes more sense than some as it is home to many engines that ‘help’ trains over the steep grades of nearby Soldier Summit.
Photo by Kirk Marshall
When plentiful coal was found in the area, the town sprouted, providing the manpower and fuel for the Denver and Rio Grande Railways. Mining camps sprung up in the 1890s and the European and Asian immigrants who came to make their fortunes helped make Helper the commercial hub for the area. In its heyday, Helper was a town of 20,000 with 33 bars and 19 houses of ill repute (Not bad for small town Utah). Today trains still ply the rails through this historic hamlet. The Western Mining and Railroad Museum is a must see for the full story.
In recent years, Helper has become a hub for miners of a different ilk. Once an economically depressed town with a decaying main street, the town has been rejuvenated by an influx of artists who search for peace and quiet to practice their craft. One such man is David Dornan. Credited with Helper’s rebirth, he holds summer workshops and master classes in a building he bought and renovated 15 years ago. The former brothel turned hotel turned studio, now houses students who can fully focus on art without big-city distractions.
Photo by Pippa Keene
Helper is easily explored on foot, and a path by the Price River is a wonderful place to stroll. A swinging bridge begs to be explored, benches provide rest in the shade and plaques erected to the area’s history stimulate the brain while the walk stretches your legs. Heading back to Main Street, look for Big John, a giant miner. Painted coal black, he is one of the Muffler Men statues from the 1960s. He stands proudly in front of the Civic Auditorium, pick in hand.
Photo by Kirk Marshall
If your walk kicked up your appetite, head to The Balance Rock Eatery. They may possibly have the best potato chips you will ever eat; made to order from scratch, they are dusted with a special seasoning blend that is a well-guarded house secret. Across the street the Happiness Within Coffee Shop will make you a cup of java and a believer that luxuries can be found in unexpected places.
Many side trips can be made from Helper. Price, just seven miles south, hosts the USU Eastern Prehistoric Museum. The Cleveland Lloyd Dinosaur Quarry, where much of the museum’s bounty was discovered just 20 miles away. Scenic Huntington Canyon, Nine Mile Canyon, Buckhorn Draw and the Wedge Overlook are all within striking distance.
For what feels like eons, I’ve been trying to get someone to take my picture.
Handing a DSLR camera to a stranger is like giving a toddler a Rubik’s cube and expecting success. I’m desperate enough to offer someone my cracked iPhone. It met its fractured fate a week prior as I dashed out of the camper van to snap a mind-blowing sunset on The Trail of the Ancients Scenic Byway.
I decide, instead, to hold out for a particularly advanced toddler.
It smells like desert rain from the late-morning monsoon, the first spring precipitation on my three-week trip to San Juan County. After weeks filled with solitude, I am finally surrounded by people. Gobs and gobs of tourists.
Monument Valley’s iconic Mittens touch the clouds behind me; I hear people speaking Mandarin, Dutch, Japanese and German. The sweet sounds of my native tongue are nary to be heard. English isn’t even the second language during high season in Southern Utah. For someone who has travelled the globe, I can get by with charades-like gestures. But that doesn’t work for communicating the camera-tech nuances of focus
and composition.
After the third tourist’s attempt at taking my picture, I concede: good enough. Probably 10 dozen tourists board open-air jalopies for the noon tour of the valley, and two unrelated things leap to mind: What would John Wayne think of Monument Valley now that it’s become Desert Disneyland? Second, I’m starving.
Across the state line, back in Utah, folks flock to Goulding’s Lodge for the famous dish (beans and taco fixings piled atop fry bread). I wish I liked Navajo tacos—even a little bit. The real treat here, however, is Goulding’s Trading Post Museum.
Inside, I find a trading post, a throwback to when it sold provisions in the 1920s and 1930s, along with movie memorabilia and posters—from John Wayne-John Ford’s classic The Searchers to Back to the Future III. If trading post owner John Goulding hadn’t lured Hollywood to the area way back when, I might not be here.
Despite devouring cinematic history lessons, my hunger has not subsided. The Swingin Steak beckons. A family-run joint at the Mexican Hat Lodge, this is where you get your beef fix. Fat, juicy steaks are cooked over an open fire on a grill that, you guessed it, swings back-and-forth.
But this isn’t a culinary tour of the Four Corners. There are plenty of other travel destinations for high-brow (or even dive-y) noshing. We travel to Canyon Country for the canyons.
Mexican Hat sits at the end of a 26-mile float trip on the San Juan River. The murky brown waterway takes its color from silt deposits and only runs clear in the winter before snowmelt. A few days ago, I hopped a boat near Bluff and snaked through the monstrous river-cut canyons with Wild Rivers Expeditions,.
While craning my neck to see the top of the canyon walls, our guide Luis, a resident Navajo , filled us in on the local lore, the story of the land. We made little side-trips to spots like Butler Wash, where a short hike took us to one of the biggest and most pristine collections of petroglyphs in the Southwest. The region is replete with ruins.
Natural Bridges National Monument
We explored River House Ruin, a well-preserved cliff dwelling. The famous House on Fire is my next stop, and a must. Good luck getting the same answer twice from a local on the best time to visit the ruin to photograph it illuminated by reflected sunlight. Every person offers a different time.
You can’t walk 100 yards without tripping over remnants of the ancients in San Juan County. It’s a mysterious window into the past. Anthropologists say Grand Gulch had more residents 600 years ago than today’s population of the entire Four Corners area.
After ruin peeping (and missing the House actually on Fire), I head to Natural Bridges State Park.
At one point in every wanderer’s life, he falls in love with a park ranger—wind-swept hair, thoughtful eyes that peer over romantic vistas, who wears her beige and iconic hat with confidence. It’s all there. My itinerary is set, but I linger just to hear Azure (made-up name) talk a bit more. “Will you be leading the educational stargazing seminar tonight?” No, she says. Sigh.
Aside from its three landmark bridges—Kachina, Owachomo, and Sipapu—Natural Bridges is known for its view of shimmering balls of nighttime light, and in 2007, it was the nation’s first International Dark Sky Park, certified by the International Dark-Sky Association. Yes, a truly milky Milky Way, vivid scenery and massive stone bridges make a memorable package at this forgotten park.
One tourist asks the surprisingly common question: “Where is the dark-sky part of the park?” It’s everywhere, my friend. What San Juan County offers is sagebrush and solitude. He leaves and I look up at the stars.
Resources
Goulding’s Lodge and Goulding’s Trading Post Museum, 1000 Main Street, Monument Valley, 435-727-3231
Swingin Steak, 163 Main Ave., Mexican Hat, 435-683-2222
Wild Rivers Expeditions, 2625 S. Hwy. 191, Bluff, 435-672-2244
Natural Bridges National Monument, PO Box 1, Blanding, UT
Perhaps you have only bothered to stop in Green River to fill up your tank. Though it may appear not much is going on in this sleepy hamlet, if you venture off the main drag, some surprises await. The eponymous river that gives this town life runs right through its heart. Providing irrigation for the bumper crop of melons that ripen every fall, habitat for four endangered native fish, and a put-in-point for a 120-mile float through Labyrinth and Stillwater Canyons, the river is the center of tourism and recreation for the area.
During the third weekend of September, the town pays homage to the succulent melons grown in sandy soil irrigated by the Green. Melon Days is small town fun, chock-a-block with events. A Melon Queen pageant, softball, volleyball and magic tournaments, pancake breakfast, parade and duck race, provide entertainment for all. Though the watermelon reigns supreme, try a Crenshaw, Canary, honeydew, cantaloupe or Israeli. Better yet, buy one of each and have a melon tasting fiesta.
Photo by Kirk Marshall
Right on the river, in the heart of town, is the John Wesley Powel River History Museum. An art galley, dinosaur exhibit, river runner hall of fame and a boat room give insight into the river’s legacy. The museum’s outdoor pavilion is a great place for a picnic and provides a full view of Gunnison Butte, part of one of the longest cliff bands in the world, stretching 240 miles from Helper, UT to Grand Junction, CO.
Andrew Rogers, an artist from Australia, received a strange email from a lawyer: “I represent a client with a 75 acre parcel near Green River, Utah, a scenic desert landscape in east central Utah. My client is possibly interested in a land art project on his property. He is 88 years old and wants to leave a lasting mark of some kind.”
Photo by Pippa Keene
This initial missive gave birth to massive modern art on Monument Hill, a bluff between interstate 70 and town. The sculptures Ratio and Elements are part of Rogers’ Rhythms of life series, are accessible by car, and add a Bohemian air to town.
Crystal Geyser, a geologic oddity, lies 4.5 miles downstream from Green River. Rarer than a geothermal generated gush, dissolved carbon dioxide and other underground gasses propel this cold water counterpoint. Created in 1935 when an oil exploration well was drilled, the geyser has since left a thick layer of orange travertine coating the ground as water flows to the river. Gas pressure causes the geyser to bubble with eruptions occurring on a bimodal cycle, eight or 22 hours after the last spew. Fewer than 10 cold water geysers exist in the world making this a must see.
Photo by Kirk Marshall
Who knew this small town held such unusual attractions? Green River is defiantly worth a visit. Three hours from Salt Lake City.
The shining turquoise and silver jewel of Santa Fe is the perfect place to end a road trip to New Mexico. Splurge on fabulous food, jangling jewelry, spiffy spas, amazing museums, up-scale resale, and acres of art. It is a veritable feast for every sense, a compilation to suit every style.
Canyon Road, the center of the historical district, is half a mile of magic, packed with over 100 art galleries, with every medium know to man on display. The traditional adobe brick buildings add architectural charm to the galleries. Despite its diminutive distance, it is entirely possible to while away an entire day, stopping for victuals and vino, glimpsing, gazing and gawking at things of beauty and those that aspire to be. Every thing is for sale but looking is free and encouraged. On a brisk winter day, popping in and out of galleries is sure to warm your toes.
For art you can’t purchase, visit one of Santa Fe’s many museums. I particularly enjoyed the Museum of International Folk Art, perched on Museum Hill. An amazing amalgamation of folk art from every corner of the globe will delight the child in every one. Alexander Girard, a prodigious architect, furniture, textile, interior and industrial designer, traveled the world with his wife Susan, collecting whimsical native art, toys, artifacts and textiles, eventually amassing a 100,000-piece collection.
He personally oversaw the construction and styling of the Girard Wing, that is chock-a-block full of his legacy in a permanent collection called Multiple Visions: A Common Bond. They must have had a lot of dusting to do before they donated it all!
Lusting after some designer cowboy boots, silver Concho belts, or western wear but worried about blowing the budget? There is a thriving consignment/resale trade where your dollars will get you double. It might take some hunting but you never know what treasure you may discover. And a bargain ‘new-to-you” item is sure to make you smile.
I only have one dining recommendation: The Pantry. We ate there three times. I am still trying to replicate a pork dish with flour, cumin, red peppers and chilies! I suspect there are myriad other options but, nuff said. Once you have had your fill of all things Santa Fean, put the car on cruise control and you will be back in Salt Lake City in 10 hours.
Photos by Pippa Keene
Photo courtesy of NPS
Several must-see sights that should be on any bucket list worth its bucket can be found further afield from Albuquerque (see our post on a road trip to Albuquerque here). A visit to White Sands National Monument and Carlsbad Caverns National Park will take you to the southern part of the state, but your driving time is rewarded with two kinds of white formations.
In the southeast corner of New Mexico, Carlsbad keeps its secrets subterranean. Driving through some unspectacular hills to the incredibly crowded visitor center parking lot, you may not have an inkling of the treasure that lies beneath the surface. You can enter the caverns two ways: by foot or by elevator, a crazy piece of modern technology plunging into eons old Earth. We chose to wander in under our own steam and, unlike most visitors, to wander back out the same way.
The trip down the Main Corridor, along the paved but steep trail, reveals highlights around each corner. A favorite trick is to turn a torch roof ward to watch the shining descents of single drops of water, the minute building blocks of the cave. Speleothems, or cave formations, include not just stalagmite and stalactite, but draperies, soda straws, columns, flowstone, popcorn and dams, all varying shapes and hues of white. In the midst of all this natural wonder, a restroom, snack bar, souvenir shop and aforementioned elevator are to be found. A constant stream of people and 57-degree temperature await you as you explore.
After driving for three hours, you wind down the huge grade of State Road 82 into Alamogordo, the town closest to White Sands National Monument. In the distance is a giant white expanse, reflecting the sky. Nestled in the northern limits of the Chihuahuan Desert, surrounded by the White Sands Missile Range, this monument is small but special. Upon reaching the visitor center, you may be perplexed to see people in snow pants, toting plastic snow saucers. Juxtaposed with the blazing sun, these sights seem most peculiar. Upon entering the park and driving along Dunes Drive, the attire and accoutrement make sense; massive white sand dunes provide perfect sledding hills, minus the snow.
Photo by Pippa Keene
We timed our visit for sunset colors and good photography light, arriving about 2 p.m. Many parking areas allow you to leave your car and stroll for as far or near as you want. But, as most sand dunes look very much alike, keep an eye on the mountains behind you so you may navigate the way back. Though they may look the same to the untrained eye, there are four distinct types of dunes: Dome, Barchan, Transverse and Parabolic, forms based on wind, sand supply and plant life. After walking for half an hour, a peaceful feeling descends, as there are no other people visible. Shadows of cacti and grasses cast crazy patterns in the waning light while tiny lizard feet leave etchings of hasty passage. The hearty Soaptree Yucca can grow up to a foot a year to keep its leaves above the sand, resting on a sand pedestal once the dune moves on.
Both Carlsbad and Alamogordo have every service you need for your visit. A four-hour drive from Alamogordo has you in Santa Fe, the crown jewel of the state.
Photo courtesy of NPS
Several must-see sights that should be on any bucket list worth its bucket can be found further afield from Albuquerque (see our post on a road trip to Albuquerque here). A visit to White Sands National Monument and Carlsbad Caverns National Park will take you to the southern part of the state, but your driving time is rewarded with two kinds of white formations.
In the southeast corner of New Mexico, Carlsbad keeps its secrets subterranean. Driving through some unspectacular hills to the incredibly crowded visitor center parking lot, you may not have an inkling of the treasure that lies beneath the surface. You can enter the caverns two ways: by foot or by elevator, a crazy piece of modern technology plunging into eons old Earth. We chose to wander in under our own steam and, unlike most visitors, to wander back out the same way.
The trip down the Main Corridor, along the paved but steep trail, reveals highlights around each corner. A favorite trick is to turn a torch roof ward to watch the shining descents of single drops of water, the minute building blocks of the cave. Speleothems, or cave formations, include not just stalagmite and stalactite, but draperies, soda straws, columns, flowstone, popcorn and dams, all varying shapes and hues of white. In the midst of all this natural wonder, a restroom, snack bar, souvenir shop and aforementioned elevator are to be found. A constant stream of people and 57-degree temperature await you as you explore.
After driving for three hours, you wind down the huge grade of State Road 82 into Alamogordo, the town closest to White Sands National Monument. In the distance is a giant white expanse, reflecting the sky. Nestled in the northern limits of the Chihuahuan Desert, surrounded by the White Sands Missile Range, this monument is small but special. Upon reaching the visitor center, you may be perplexed to see people in snow pants, toting plastic snow saucers. Juxtaposed with the blazing sun, these sights seem most peculiar. Upon entering the park and driving along Dunes Drive, the attire and accoutrement make sense; massive white sand dunes provide perfect sledding hills, minus the snow.
Photo by Pippa Keene
We timed our visit for sunset colors and good photography light, arriving about 2 p.m. Many parking areas allow you to leave your car and stroll for as far or near as you want. But, as most sand dunes look very much alike, keep an eye on the mountains behind you so you may navigate the way back. Though they may look the same to the untrained eye, there are four distinct types of dunes: Dome, Barchan, Transverse and Parabolic, forms based on wind, sand supply and plant life. After walking for half an hour, a peaceful feeling descends, as there are no other people visible. Shadows of cacti and grasses cast crazy patterns in the waning light while tiny lizard feet leave etchings of hasty passage. The hearty Soaptree Yucca can grow up to a foot a year to keep its leaves above the sand, resting on a sand pedestal once the dune moves on.
Both Carlsbad and Alamogordo have every service you need for your visit. A four-hour drive from Alamogordo has you in Santa Fe, the crown jewel of the state.
Flanking the Big Wood River and shadowed by Bald Mountain, Ketchum and the adjacent Sun Valley Resort are small enough to explore by foot or bike but are crammed with a summer’s worth of activities. Holding a wedding or family reunion here allows planning something for everyone to enjoy.
Photo by Kirk Marshall
Called “the communities living room”, Ketchum’s Town Square is ground zero for residents and visitors alike. Free concerts, movies and yoga classes, a handy ice cream vendor, and adjacent visitor’s center make this spot a must do in Ketchum. You might bump into friends or make some new ones.
Find some second-hand treasure at the Gold Mine Thrift Store, a repository of ski gear, and other assorted clothing and house-wares. Or check out brand spanking new gear at the Elephant’s Perch and get outfitted for any outdoor adventure. Window-shopping throughout downtown is a great way to unwind after a morning of exertion.
Photo by Pippa Keene
Sun Valley’s Ice Skating Rink, a year-round facility where Olympian’s train, is a cool way to pass some time. Strap on some skates and try not to literally bump into the stars. The summer ice shows are enthralling and can be watched from the dining patio at Sun Valley Lodge or a rink-side stadium.
Use Ketchum as a base for exploring the untamed places nearby. Half an hour drive brings you to the top of Galena Summit. A sweeping view of the Sawtooth Mountains and the eponymous scenic byway greet you. Amazing single tracks like Fourth of July and Ant’s Basin beg for a spin and inviting lakes like Redfish, Yellow Belly and Alturas inveigle you to take a dip and a paddle.
Photo by Pippa Keene
The clear air, mountain town charm, and plethora of activities and adventures make Ketchum and Sun Valley a great summer getaway. Five hours north of Salt Lake City.
Cecret Lake, photo by Kirk Marshall
Only 25 miles away, yet 20 degrees cooler, pack up the family and an outdoor attitude for a weekend escape.
When I say Alta you may think skiing. Rethink this mountain hamlet as a summer destination and revel in the amazing beauty that is the Wasatch without snow. Bird song and pika peeps, moose tracks and porcupine poop, fox holes and rattlesnake rhythms are what you find here by wandering one of the many hiking trails. Add the bonus of a profusion of wildflower blooms, alpine lakes and the long summer days with light from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m., and you can spend the entire day outdoors. Rock climbing, mountain biking and fishing are also pursuits for the nature lover.
Photo by Pippa Keene
A rite of passage for any Alta visit, Cecret Lake is a must do hike. Just over a mile each way and gaining a modest 450 feet, if taken slowly this hike is for old and young alike. Sky and peaks reflected in the pristine blue water, possible snow bank scrambles, rocks for resting and fish to spot, Cecret Lake has a big payoff in a short distance.
Few things are as decadent as Sunday brunch and few brunches are as splendid as that at the Alta Lodge. Be sure to arrive with a huge appetite, perhaps one you have created by hiking Mt. Superior, and plan on a several hour session. Just try to sample all 40 buffet items. Live jazz music adds to the ambience and hopefully improves digestion.
While Alta is the quintessential quiet mountain town, two miles down the roadSnowbird offers more in the way of amenities. Free Saturday night concerts, Ariel Tram, Bungee Trampolines, Alpine Slide and a mechanical bull will entertain the entire family. Get your yodel on at Octoberfest, starting Aug. 16, and sample Bavarian food and of course beer. With fancy shops, restaurants, guided activities and a carnival atmosphere, Snowbird has plenty of amenities to amuse. If pampering is what you crave, the Cliff Spa can massage, glow, buff, shellac, peel, polish, wrap and hydrate.
Photo courtesy of Snowbird
Lodging options include private homes, condos, chalets, log cabins, lodges and even a campground. Alta and Snowbird are great places for family reunions, weddings, parties or romantic weekends. Only 45 minutes from Salt Lake, the top of Little Cottonwood Canyon provides a breath of fresh air during our hottest summer months. Alta is not just for skiers!
Whale Rock at Island in the Sky in Canyonlands
The largest of the Mighty 5 National Parks in Utah, Canyonlands covers 337,598 acres with a hit parade of features that make Southern Utah distinct. The park is divided by the Colorado and Green Rivers into three distinct districts: Island in the Sky, Needles and the Maze. Author Edward Abbey, a park ranger in Arches National Monument and a frequent visitor to Canyonlands described the park as “the most weird, wonderful, magical place on earth—there is nothing else like it anywhere.” It definitely lives up to his description.
Rising into the sky then falling dramatically 2,000 feet to the confluence of the rivers below, you do indeed look down upon birds on the wing.
Shafer Trail switchbacks
The Island district is the most accessible with multiple short hikes, myriad dramatic vistas, many turnouts and miles of paved road. There are few visitor facilities but many opportunities for solitude as only 500,000 people visit this park each year. With 1/5 the visitors of Zion National Park, you can be sure of some space and peace. Willow Flat is the lone campground here, with a mere 12 spaces.
Many short hikes get you out of the car, into the elements and lead to views of untamed land disappearing on the horizon. Mesa Arch, a portal clinging to the cliff edge and framing the La Sal Mountains, is a favorite spot for sunrise photos, a half-mile hike with huge pay off. Whale Rock is fun to climb, your sneakers clinging to the steep sides of the sandstone monolith. Grand View Point Trail leads to the very tip of the Island, an easy walk to the edge of the mesa.
Mesa Arch
The Green River overlook allows glimpses of eons old goosenecks, giant bends in the river exposing rock bands resembling layer cakes. Look carefully and you can spy the White Rim Trail as it hugs the mesa edge. This winding 100-mile track made by Uranium miners in the 1950s is accessed by the Shafer or Mineral Bottom switchbacks, requires a 4-wheel drive vehicle and a backcountry permit for camping. An unforgettable Jeep drive or supported bike ride, the White Rim Trail brings you into the heart of nowhere, unfolding the hidden, secret heart of wilderness.
Green River Overlook
Island In the Sky Visitor Center is four hours from Salt Lake and 40 minutes from Moab, a small town that makes a great base for exploring Canyonlands.
Island in the Sky Visitor Center
Photos in this post by Pippa Keene
