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Hosting luxe vacations and weddings, staycays and elevated evenings out, Alta’s Snowpine Lodge is a mountain hot spot, all year round.

Go ahead and call it a comeback: Snowpine Lodge—the oldest building at Alta—has experienced numerous overhauls since 1939 when it first housed powderhounds bedding down at the base of the Alta’s soaring peaks. Fast forward 83 years. Today, Snowpine is Alta’s only luxury lodge, following a recent $40 million revamp courtesy of owners Brent and Meg Pratt. The couple purchased the property as an investment as well as a spot to host their large, Alta-loving clan. Fortunately, the rest of us can enjoy the reimagined Lodge as well.  

Atmosphere

Located at the top of Little Cottonwood Canyon twenty minutes outside of Salt Lake City, the 54-room hotel (with additional bunk rooms) nods to Alta’s silver-mining past with rustic elements that team with luxe design details at every turn. Brawny beams, wood floors, stacked stone fireplaces, and paneled and natural rock walls anchor the cozy décor. Meanwhile, original art, mountain-modern furnishings and comfy seating animate Insta-worthy lounges and nooks on every level. Stunning views fill the entire hotel through expansive windows. “Ours is a modern take on the traditional ski lodge,” explains Brent Hall, director of sales & marketing. 

Amenities

Six treatment rooms compose the tranquil Stillwell spa along with a posh relaxation room and a serenely lit grotto replete with a plunge pool encased in granite walls. A yoga and fitness center add to the rejuvenating experience. Swen’s Restaurant indulges with delicious, locally sourced fare, and nearby, The Gulch Pub cheers with creative cocktails and a relaxed, après-ski menu. Lounges host convivial gatherings and The Nest—a fully equipped game room—invites fun off-the-slopes competitions. A heated outdoor pool treats guests to dips and breathtaking scenery.

Activities 

Outdoor activities make Snowpine Lodge a prized, year-round destination. Guests enjoy summer and shoulder-season hiking and biking as well as skiing and snowshoeing all winter long.

10420 Little Cottonwood Rd., Alta 

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Get out of the cold and discover art and design in the Sonoran Desert

Scottsdale, Arizona is Phoenix’s posh neighbor, dotted with gated communities, resorts, spas and fancy hotels. While Arizona, in general, remains best known for retirees, snowbirds and a particular brand of “Don’t Tread on Me” conservatism, a new generation is taking up residence in the area, drawn there not for golfing but for art, architecture and design. These design nerds are taking note because of the legacy of two giants of architecture—Frank Lloyd Wright and Paolo Soleri. The two rivals represent a yin and yang of design philosophies. Their apprentice compounds—Wright’s fastidious Taliesin West and Soleri’s chaotic Cosanti—are magnets for a revival in interest in the area’s older homes and buildings, especially mid-century projects from the 1940s to ‘60s. Scottsdale’s stuffy reputation is giving way to a second look from a younger generation and winter is the perfect time to explore the new scene. Because Arizona in the summer? No, thank you.

Taliesin West: Frank Lloyd Wright’s Legacy

Frank Lloyd Wright came to Arizona in the 1930s to create a space where he could work in peace and train his apprentices. He built Taliesin West (named in concert with his Wisconsin workshop Taliesin East) in what was then the middle of nowhere 26 miles from Phoenix. Wright and his students built everything at Taliesin West by hand, using materials that could be harvested from the surrounding desert. He invented methods to work with, instead of against, the terrain. “There were simple characteristic silhouettes to go by, tremendous drifts and heaps of sunburned desert rocks were nearby to be used,” Wright said. “We got it all together with the landscape.”

Today Taliesin West still inspires architecture students to discover Wright’s methods, which, in a tradition dating back to its earliest days, once required acolytes to live in a tent in the desert and design and build their own desert shelters to live in. Wright was a madman for order and this National Historic Landmark is a marvel of thoughtful design and building. Not a blade of grass is out of place. The site offers tours daily. 12621 N. Frank Lloyd Wright Blvd., Scottsdale 

Wright’s Rival

If Frank Lloyd Wright was a madman for order, Paolo Soleri was just plainly a madman. Although his reputation has recently been tarnished by posthumous allegations of sexual abuse, Soleri’s work remains an important part of design history. The Italian architecture student came to Taliesin West in 1946, to study among Wright’s apprentices. But he did not mesh with the monastic environment. He was also challenging Wright on the national stage, winning exhibitions in New York and making the cover of the Rolling Stone of architecture, Architectural Digest. Claire Carter, the curator at The Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art (7374 E. Second Street, Scottsdale, 480-874-4666), believes the Italian’s splashy success in New York was a threat to Wright’s near-domination of the American architectural scene. “Soleri was brash, cocky and his work was getting notice in important circles,” she says. “I suspect that wasn’t to Mr. Wright’s liking.” Whatever the reason, Soleri left Taliesin for Italy in 1950, where he would design one of his most important buildings, Ceramica Artistica Solimene, a large ceramics factory on the Almafi Coast. 

Soleri could not, however, just let things lie. He returned to Arizona in 1956 to establish his own rival school and workshop, which he called Cosanti (6433 E. Doubletree Ranch Rd., Paradise Valley, 480-948-6145). There, apprentices fire Soleri’s Cosanti Bells, elaborate bronze or ceramic wind chimes, to help fund Soleri’s masterwork Arcosanti.

70 miles north of Phoenix, Arcosanti was an ongoing endeavor to build one of Paolo Soleri’s fantastic cities of the future. Soleri thought big and drafted plans for hundreds of cities, published in his book Arcology— a portmanteau of “architecture” and “ecology,” a term he invented. He began construction in 1970 to demonstrate how urban conditions could be improved while minimizing modern sprawl’s destructive impact on the planet. Acolytes still journey to Arcosanti to join intensive five-week-long workshops where they study Soleri’s work, techniques and continue the city’s construction. Tours daily.

Play

Now that you understand the underpinnings of Scottsdale’s art world, it’s time to enjoy the desert, specifically the Salt River. Yes. A river. The Salt River flows past the cities of Mesa, Tempe and Scottsdale, then south of downtown Phoenix. Birds, river otters and herds of wild horses find their way to the flowing water. Kayak the Salt River with a guided tour from Arizona Outback Adventures (866-455-1601). Or spend a day hiking in the McDowell Sonoran Preserve (18333 N. Thompson Peak Pkwy, Scottsdale, 480-312-7013).  For more culture, take a walking or bike tour of the Scottsdale Public Art Program, a diverse collection of artwork from traditional bronzes such as George-Ann Tognoni’s trio of galloping horses to experiential installations like James Turrell’s SkySpace. 

Hike Camelback Mountain 

No trip to Phoenix is complete without a hike up Camelback Mountain. The 2,706-foot peak looms above the city like a giant kneeling camel, hence the name. It’s pretty tough to keep staring at that peak each day without feeling some primal urge to climb to the top.

There are two hiking trails ascending nearly 1,300 feet to the summit, the 1.4-mile Cholla Trail and the steeper and shorter 1.14-mile Echo Canyon Trail. No matter which you choose, be ready for a steep and scrambly climb to the top. The vertically inclined can enjoy some rock climbing on the Praying Monk, a rounded sandstone formation on Camelback’s northern slope that rises about 100 feet and features several bolted routes and belay anchors. 

It typically takes between two and three hours to hike to the top of Camelback Mountain, but don’t let the relatively paltry distance convince you it isn’t a serious undertaking. Unassuming tourists regularly find themselves in peril on the mountain’s rocky flanks, so come prepared. 

Dine

Scottsdale’s dining scene has mirrored the town’s artistic revival. Take, for example, FnB (7125 E. 5th Ave. #31, 480-284-4777) a haven of local food and growing local wine industry. Helmed by James Beard Award finalist Chef Charleen Badman, known for her collaborations with local farmers, FnB highlights a different Arizona growing region every four weeks. Plus wine. For a marriage of food and architecture (and more wine) try Postino (4821 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale, 602-428-4444). Postino’s owners find mid-century modern commercial buildings (think banks, post offices) and turn them into restaurants. Also, their happy hour is bananas—$5 glasses of wine and pitchers of beer before 5 p.m. and $20 for bruschetta and a bottle of wine after 8 p.m. For a taste of Old Arizona, visit the margarita heaven The Mission (3815 N. Brown Ave., Scottsdale, 480-636-5005) in Old Town Scottsdale. Try the Malbec-braised short rib and chorizo porchetta. For a truly exciting dining adventure in the Sonoran Desert, Cloth and Flame (480-428-6028) specializes in hot-air balloon rides that deposit you at a fully appointed table amid the Saguaro cacti, in time for a spectacular desert sunset.

Stay

At the foot of Camelback Mountain lies Mountain Shadows (5445 E. Lincoln Dr., Scottsdale, 480-624-5400). Once the resort to the stars (think Bob Hope and Lucille Ball), the resort fell into disrepair, but its new heyday has arrived, fastidiously renovated in the now-retro decor. For more throwback, visit the Hermosa Inn (5532 N. Palo Cristi Rd., Paradise Valley, 602-955-8614). Hand-built in the 1930s by cowboy artist Lon Megargee as his residence and studio, this hacienda has 34 guest casitas. If boutique-on-top-of-boutique style is more your bag, consider the Bespoke Inn (3701 N. Marshall Way, Scottsdale, 844-861-6715). Bespoke Inn shares a courtyard with Virtù (480-946-3477), a James Beard-nominated restaurant, and with Bespoke Cycles, which specializes in handmade British city bikes.

ROAD TRIP 1: Cliffs, Caves & Grand Canyons

Start:  Peach Springs / End: Kayenta

Postcard-worthy vistas aren’t uncommon in Arizona, but these off-the-beaten-path hidden gems let you explore and enjoy all the grandeur of the landscape without the crowds. 

1. Grand Canyon Caverns in Peach Springs

Explore the subterranean realm at Grand Canyon Caverns. A variety of tours are available, both guided and unguided, from short and scenic to deeply claustrophobia-inducing to quite possibly haunted ghost tours. Afterward, dine 200 feet underground at the Grotto Café and ask about sleeping beneath the surface in the master suite.

2. Rock Art Ranch in Winslow

An unassuming working cattle ranch near Winslow is a little off the beaten path but holds a trove of historic art. Tour scores of well-preserved petroglyphs, ancient ruins and a quaint museum of American Indian and pioneer and artifacts.   

3. Apache Death Cave on route 66 between Flagstaff and Winslow

In 1878 amid a series of bloody skirmishes between Apache Indians and Navajo, Apache warriors hid with their horses in this cavern to avoid detection. Once discovered, 42 Apache warriors were killed in the cave as retribution for raids on surrounding Navajo camps. The area is considered cursed.  

4. Vermillion Cliffs National Monument in Marble Canyon 

The Wave—the famed sweeping, smooth sandstone formation—is undoubtedly blowing up your social media feed, but with 280,000 acres in the Vermillion Cliffs National Monument there’s plenty more to see that doesn’t require permits or a lottery system. Stunning red rocks, California condors and plenty of solitude are waiting. 

5. Shash Dine Eco Retreat in Page

Billed as a “Five Billion Star Hotel” because of the unobscured views of the night sky, the Shash Dine Eco Retreat is glamping at its finest. Luxurious outdoor accommodations mean you won’t be roughing it, and easy access to Lake Powell and Horseshoe Bend is the cherry on top.   

6. Arizona Hot Spring Trail in Willow Beach

With a five-mile round trip hike, the Arizona Hot Spring Trail typically isn’t very crowded or particularly arduous. Hike up a rocky arroyo near Lake Mead to the banks of the Colorado where a large natural hot spring awaits. 

7. Dome Stargazing House in Williams 

A clear top tented dome in the desert is a truly unique place to experience dark skies and uninterrupted star gazing. Heated sheets, warm showers and fire pits will keep you warm on chilly desert nights so you can enjoy nature’s light show each evening. 

8. Mystery Valley near Kayenta

Mystery Valley is a stunning yet seldom-visited place on Navajo land. To access the magnificent landscape, you’ll need to hire a Diné guide, who will show you the area and teach you about its history, from the nearby Monument Valley Visitor Center.  

9. North Rim of the Grand Canyon

Though it’s closed right now—at over 8,000 feet elevation, there’s frequently snow during the winter months—the North Rim of the Grand Canyon is remarkable and worth the visit. Hike the North Kaibab Trail and stay and in the historic Grand Canyon Lodge or at a campsite with the best view imaginable.  

ROAD TRIP 2: Old West, Wilderness & Wine

Start:  Benson / End: Willcox

Travel through Cochise County to experience the history of the cinematic American West. Explore natural wonders, visit historic sites like Tombstone and even throw in a bit of wine tasting. 

1. Benson

Visit the “living cave” of the Kartchner Caverns State Park where water has carved caverns through the limestone. The Throne Room contains one of the world’s largest stalactites, a 58-foot-tall column called Kubla Kahn. The spectacular speleotherms throughout the formation are still growing. Cabins and camping are available to enjoy the dark skies at night.  

2. Bisbee 

An 1880s mining camp was transformed into an artist community in Bisbee. Board a tram to see the inner workings of the 1,500-foot-deep Queen Mine before visiting the Sam Poe Gallery or getting a craft beer from myriad artisans along “Brewery Gulch.” 

3. Sierra Vista 

Known as the hummingbird capital of the United States, Sierra Vista is home to the San Pedro Riparian National Conservation Area. Along with a wealth of hummingbirds, more than 300 other species are common to the area. After birding, head north to the Cochise Stronghold in the Dragoon Mountains. Apache Chief Cochise once used the rugged terrain as a natural fortress, and now it’s a paradise for rock climbers.

4. Tombstone 

Visit the famed town of legendary lawman Wyatt Earp, including the site of the infamous gun battle at the OK Corral to “walk where they fell.”. Movie and American history rarely meet in such proximity. 

5. Willcox 

Welcome to Arizona’s wine capital. 75% of the grapes in the state are grown in the vineyards surrounding Willcox. The annual Arizona Wine Festival graces the area, but, even outside festival dates, there are plenty of tasting rooms like the one at Aridus Wine Company. 

6. Fairbank and Gleeson

Journey back in time with a visit to a couple of old West Ghost Towns. Fairbank was the transport hub and supply depot for Tombstone, where the old schoolhouse has been reimagined into a visitor center and bookstore. Just 25 miles to the east is Gleeson, where little more than a restored jailhouse and deteriorating relics remain. 

ROAD TRIP 3: Route 66 Recon

Start: Lake Havasu / End: Flagstaff

Travel the original mother road. Route 66 is the iconic pathway of American lore where freedom, history and the open road unfold ahead of you.  

1. Lake Havasu and London Bridge 

Start your Route 66 journey in a boat, not a car. A sunset charter up the Topock Gorge aboard the “Serenity Now” with Lake Havasu Boat Tours will provide unforgettable views. While visiting, check out the Lake Havasu Museum and a recreation of the London Bridge.  

2. Oatman 

From Lake Havasu, head to the former gold-mining town of Oatman. Experience the past with authentic staged old-west gunfights, and keep an eye out for the wild burrows roaming through the area. Stay at the historic Oatman Hotel.  

3. Peach Springs to Raft the Grand Canyon 

Hop into the water by joining the Hualapai River Runners for a day of whitewater rafting in the Grand Canyon. American Indian guides will take the helm, sharing insight and the history of the people who call the Grand Canyon Home. 

4. Seligman for a stop at Delgadillo’s Snow Cap 

Enjoy a hefty dose of nostalgia with your burger and malt from Delgadillo’s Snow Cap. The drive-in diner is straight out of a sentimental road trip fever dream. Head just a few doors down to the museum owned by Angel Delgadillo, the “Guardian Angel of Route 66,” to see the preserved artifacts of the mother road’s history.  

5. South Rim of the Grand Canyon by Train

You’ve seen it by raft, now see it by rail. Take in the views from the legendary Grand Canyon Railway before staying at the famous El Tovar Hotel in the national park.  

6. Flagstaff 

Point the car to Flagstaff, where the main drag is Route 66. Learn the history of the areaat the museum of Northern Arizona before touring the Lowell Observatory where Pluto was discovered in 1930. Stay for the night to enjoy the dark skies before turning in at the Weatherford Hotel, famed for hosting presidents, gunslingers and everyone in between. 

ROAD TRIP 4: Art Halls, Golf Balls & Cacti Tall 

Start: Phoenix / End: Saguaro National Park

From avant-garde artistic culture to iconic natural wonders to impossibly lush golf courses amid an arid landscape, you’ll find a little bit of everything on this tour of Arizona’s center and south.

1. See Art in Phoenix 

Start your tour of Phoenix’s art scene with a visit to the Phoenix Art Museum. Then enjoy a new kind of immersive experience at the Van Gogh Exhibition, where massive moving projections of the artist’s most iconic works from “Starry Night” to “Sun Flowers” captivate audiences. 

2. Golf in Scottsdale 

The unceremoniously named Waste Management Phoenix Open is a fan favorite with notoriously raucous and fun crowds. You can play the very same course at TPC Scottsdale where legends of the game have walked the fairways or any of the area’s 200 some other public courses.   

3. Visit the Pima Air and Space Museum in Tucson 

The Pima Air and Space Museum in Tucson is one of the largest non-government-funded museums in the world with more than 300 aircraft spread over 80 acres. See World War II relics like the B-29 Superfortress “Sentimental Journey” and modern marvels like the world’s fastest manned aircraft, a Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird. The museum is adjacent to the Davis Monthan Air Force Base, which is home to the famed “graveyard of planes.”

4. Colossal Cave Mountain Park in Vail

Just south of Tucson in the town of Vail (no relation to Colorado) is an expansive cave system. The caverns of Colossal Cave Mountain Park were used as homes by Native Americans as early as 900 A.D. and more recently served as hideouts for old west train robbers. These days, they’re a tourist attraction where you can take guided or unguided tours through the caves. Stay and camp among the mesquite trees in Posta Quemada Canyon. 

5. Kitt Peak National Observatory west in Tucson 

During daytime visits to Kitt Peak Observatory, you can tour the massive optical telescopes and hike to panoramic mountaintops. In the evening you can enjoy incredible stargazing with the naked eye or sign up for telescope viewing programs to see the celestial bodies in space like never before.

6. Saguaro National Park

The giant saguaro cactus is pretty much the most universal symbol of the American West despite only growing in a few select locations. The largest cacti in the country are plentiful along the 165 miles of hiking trails. The park is refreshingly less developed than many others. Wilderness camping is available in the Rincon Mountain district for more adventurous visitors.

For more travel ideas, head to visitarizona.com.  

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Read more of our 2021 Road Trip Series.

Inside the “Jewel of Kanab,” the first modern home in Kane County, feels more like a mausoleum than a museum, preserving the remains of the day-to-day life of Mormon polygamist settlers, down to the home’s original furniture. Around every corner, I expect to find a 19th-century ghost, hunched over a writing desk, gazing out one of the wide windows, and it would feel perfectly natural, even mundane. After all, I am the intruder here.

The 127-year-old home has been restored and transformed into the Kanab Heritage House Museum (115 S. Main St.). My museum guide, Tina, acts surprised when I show up for the tour as if I am the only visitor she has seen in days. When the tour starts, it is just the two of us. She conducts me through each room with hushed tones. I wonder who she is afraid will overhear her. In the dining room, Tina proudly shows me a family photograph of the home’s inhabitants as if it were a picture of her own brood. The photograph hangs above one of the many fireplaces, the frame stretching from one end of the mantle to the other to make room for the six wives of Thomas Chamberlain (a wool merchant) and their 55 children. 

In the dining room also hangs a photograph of Chamberlain in black and white stripes, in prison for the crime of polygamy. Beside it, is a picture of five women standing: the newly-elected 1912 mayor, Mary Woolley Chamberlain, and the city council of Kanab. It was the first time in the history of the United States that a town council and mayor were comprised entirely of women—eight years before it would become legal for any of them to vote in the U.S. 

When Tina takes me upstairs and shows me where the children slept (original bed, antique dolls and all). I ask if I can stay the night. She instead recommends a couple of  local B&Bs in similarly preserved turn-of-the-century homes.

Kanab (Start Here)

Historic tableaus like that are on full display all over Kanab. Just like the actors who once graced the sets of the westerns that gave it the nickname “Little Hollywood,” Kanab has been through more than a few costume changes. Chamberlain’s descendants owned and operated the nearby Moqui Cave (4581 Hwy. 89). The natural sandstone cave was once used as a bar and dance club to entertain the stars of Little Hollywood. Parts of the original bar are still there, but the rest of the space is now dedicated to an eclectic array of Native artifacts, dinosaur tracks, football memorabilia and glowing rock collections. It’s as weird as it sounds. Nearby, there are two short, but worthwhile, hikes to the Belly of the Dragon and Moqui Caverns, located along the same stretch of Highway 89. 

Kanab’s reputation as a perfect starting point for adventures in southern Utah has forced the desire to preserve its small-town vibe into conflict with the need to accommodate its ever-growing tourism industry. It’s facing labor and home shortages and rising housing prices. While not everyone who lives there is happy about its effects, its reputation is well-earned. Kanab is the lynchpin of the Grand Circle, within spitting distance of Zion National Park, Bryce Canyon National Park, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, the Grand Canyon’s North Rim and Lake Powell.

Where to Eat: Kanab

Kanab Creek Bakery (238 W. Center St.) keeps the case full of laminated pastries and the coffee fresh and hot, which you can take to-go or sip while sitting with a croque for breakfast. For lunch, Wild Thyme Cafe (198 S. 100 East) sources much of their menu from their own organic gardens. Their specialty bowls come in varieties like Yellow Curry and Falafel over tasty coconut rice. And for dinner, try the offering of French home-style food—an intriguing find in Southern Utah—at Vermillion 45 (210 S. 100 East).

Where to Stay

Under Canvas Lake Powell-Grand Staircase has luxury canvas safari-style tents with working showers and toilets as well as dining options on-site.
555 S. Jacob Tank Rd., Big Water, 888-496-1148

Purple Sage Inn is a redone turn-of-the-century home built in 1884.
54 S. Main St., Kanab, 435-644-5377

Grand Circle Bed & Breakfast is another converted home built in 1912. 250 N. 100 West, Kanab, 435-644-8008

Quail Park Lodge is a classic ’50s hotel, redone.
125 N. 300 West, Kanab, 435-644-8700

Cave Lakes Canyon offers tipis, hogans and conventional rooms.
Kanab, 435-644-3812

Canyons Hotel, a boutique hotel.
190 N. 300 West, Kanab, 435-644-8660

Off the Path (But Not Too Far)

If you don’t stay in Kanab, there are plenty of places around to camp, but that doesn’t mean you have to rough it. About one hour east, along Highway 89, a new luxury campsite by Under Canvas has popped up on the rim of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. And it is on the rim of an actual canyon. The on-site concierge directs me to a number of hiking trails spiraling outward from the campsite into hidden sandstone slot canyons. You’re also perfectly poised to head deeper into the National Monument and just minutes away from the Glen Canyon Recreational Area and Lake Powell.

The nearby BLM Big Water Visitor’s Center can also assist in the launch of any outdoor adventures. The Ghost Town Pahreah trail is a must for anyone as fascinated with abandoned, potentially haunted things as I am. It is a four-mile, out-and-back trail not far off of Highway 89. The eponymous Pahreah, or Paria, was another Mormon settlement, eventually abandoned by its inhabitants after one too many hardships. Terrible yearly flooding that washed away crops and homes proved to be the last straw. It saw second life for a short time as a backdrop for western films, but film crews likewise struggled with the periodic flooding. So much so, they built their own staged Old Western town not far away, which you can also visit. 

If you like your strange sights to be a little more ancient, it’s a two mile out-and-back hike for the Toadstool Hoodoos. Keeping on Highway 89, there is only one place in the Glen Canyon Recreational Area where you can camp just feet from the water and swim, and boat and ride. In addition to out-of-place stretches of soft, sandy beaches, Lone Rock Beach Campground offers spectacular views, the centerpiece of which is the aforementioned Lone Rock—a monolithic pillar of sandstone, carved out by water over millennia. For an even more stunning vista, Horseshoe Bend Lookout is an easy mile hike from the parking lot in Page, Ariz. and could not be more worth the money to park. 

On the way, you can stop at the Glen Canyon Dam Overlook to see up close the manmade marvel generating five billion kilowatt-hours of hydroelectric power annually to keep lights on in much of the Western United States. It’s probably also haunted, as 17 workers died on the job during its 10-year construction. (A fitting monument to dedicate to Ladybird Johnson, I suppose.) You can see where some of those workers used to live, and even sleep where they slept, in one of the mid-century motels on the aptly named Street of Little Motels in Page. 

On the Way Back (Take a Piece of It With You)

If you’re returning to the Wasatch Front or points north, don’t go by way of I-15 unless you have to. Instead, stay on Scenic Byway 89. Besides, the trip is not over until you have a souvenir to take home. Skip the many gift shops and rock shops (or not, rock heads) and instead, acquire something with a little history to commemorate the experience. Go for the antique shops. Almost every town you drive through on Highway 89 will have one.

Not far past the turn-off for Scenic Byway 12 and Bryce Canyon (an adventure for another time), I hitch my horse in Panguitch and I am not disappointed. The small historic Main Street is home to Smokin’ Hot Antiques & Collectibles at the Old Firehouse (38 N. Main St.), which, as advertised, is inside an old Firehouse. The employees are friendly and helpful in their way, so I spend hours inside, picking over cracked leather cowboy and rancher gear, handmade beaded purses, tiffany lamps and more tin crockery than anyone could ever need. In the end, I go home with the creepiest antique doll I can find.  

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Get ready for your next adventure with more travel tips from Salt Lake magazine.

The fanny pack felt a little silly when I strapped it around my waist. The manufacturer calls it a “trail runner neoprene bear spray holster,” but we all know it’s a fanny pack. If the hipster bonafides of the belted pouch weren’t bad enough, the bear spray within felt overzealous. Carrying it on a trail run felt like packing a harpoon for a shark attack while surfing. Nevertheless, the mortification that during a good grizzly mauling my final thoughts would be of the protective spray I’d left in the car in the name of vanity was too much to ignore. Even with the odds thoroughly stacked in my favor, I was happy to be packing some atomized pepper-spiced deterrent once I realized I hadn’t seen anyone in miles and that eerie sensation of being completely alone deep in the woods set in. Big Sky was big country, and getting away from it all was as easy as setting off into the wilderness. 

I needn’t have worried about bears that day, just the ability of my legs to finish jogging the ambitious—for me, anyway—route from Big Sky Resort to the Big Sky Meadow Village via the Mountain to Meadow Trail. The stunning trail is popular among mountain bikers, hikers and trail runners, but on this weekday afternoon as drizzling rain transformed into early season snowfall, solitude was all around.  

Montana can seem like a lifetime away. It’s an untamed place with landscapes grand enough to make you feel as insignificant as one of those dry flies getting eaten by a trout on the Gallatin River. But it’s only five and a half hours from SLC to Big Sky and less than 60 additional minutes to the comparative metropolis of Bozeman. Time to hit the road. We’re heading to Big Sky Country. 

A River Runs Through It

The Gallatin River cuts a picturesque canyon through Bozeman and Big Sky. The river was named for Albert Gallatin, the Secretary of the Treasury during two presidencies and, notably, the Lewis and Clark expedition. I don’t know if the guy was a big fly fisherman or what, but today, anglers from around the world come to experience the blue-ribbon fisheries on the river bearing his name. Gallatin opposed the forced relocation of Native Americans, at least, so I suppose the moniker is less ignominious than some others coined during western expansion. 

The evolution of Big Sky and Bozeman mirrors much of the American West as trapping and prospecting ultimately yielded to tourism and recreation. Where late 1800s loggers rode down the river atop felled trees to prevent jams, tourists now load into rafts to tackle the infamous “Mad Mile,” an extended stretch of class IV rapids. The aforementioned anglers cast along some of the same stretches, immortalized in A River Runs Through It. Up in the hills, a real estate developer purchased 100,000 acres of timberland and, after some land swaps with the U.S. Forest Service, created one of the world’s most expensive and exclusive ski and golf communities, the Yellowstone Club. Despite softened edges, Montana is still wild country with untapped potential for exploration. Just don’t forget the bear spray.

What to Do

The ideal starting point for exploring an area is by learning about its history and the people who came before. Stop in at the Gallatin History Museum, which is housed in the former county jail and has a wealth of artifacts from Southwest Montana’s past. These range from the curiously morbid—preserved jail cells and hanging gallows—to the scholarly—newspapers, maps and a 20,000-strong photo archive. 

After studying the past, it’s time to enjoy the present. Don’t overthink it. Head out on the water for some world-class fly fishing with Gallatin River Guides. It is some of the best in the world with high catch rates for brook and brown trout. Even if the fish aren’t snapping at your flies with the frequency you’d prefer, it’s tough to have a bad day in such a picturesque setting. There’s a reason they made a whole movie centered around Brad Pitt casting on these waters. 

After finishing up on the water, head to Big Sky Resort to explore the high country. The center of the resort, Lone Peak, is a towering laccolith that dominates the skyline at 11,166 feet. People of all ages and abilities can reach the summit on the half-day Lone Peak Expedition, where safari-style vehicles drive guests up the mountain’s flanks before they’re whisked to the top in the Lone Peak Tram. Those who prefer using sweat equity to reach Montana’s highest scenic overlook can hike up the Summit Climb trail, while the adrenaline seekers can enjoy the resort’s lift-served mountain bike trails. 

Southwestern Montana is more than an evolved relic of western expansion; it’s become the creative capital of the state. Visit the Bozeman Art Museum to experience artwork representing the traditions, history and future of its people and cultures. Still, we’ve only scratched the surface. There’s that little-known National Park—widely regarded as the world’s first—called Yellowstone just down the road. 

Where to Eat and Drink

A good day in the mountains around Big Sky starts with a solid caffeine kick. Caliber Coffee Roasters, has some great local roasts and breakfast options—it’s hard to go wrong with a chicken-fried steak in the morning. After some outdoor adventure, grab a different type of brew at the Lone Peak Brewery. Lone Peak has a huge selection of 14 beers on tap, and, with the best burgers in Big Sky, it’s more than just a spot for suds. In the evening, check out Olive B’s Big Sky Bistro. The menu has mountain classics like rocky mountain elk, lamb chops and a wild game Bolognese, but, with the chef’s New England roots, also features seafood like crab cakes and an absolutely decadent lobster mac and cheese. 

When in Bozeman, enjoy the budding culinary culture. Whistle Pig Korean is home to authentic Korean dishes. The Dak Bulgogi with marinated chicken and the Kimchi Jjigae with tofu and pork stew is delicious, but there are also wonderful vegetarian options including a high-protein Bibimbap. Feast Raw Bar & Bistro is an upscale eatery offering locally sourced meats—try the bison carpaccio—and sustainably sourced fresh seafood—the daily ceviche and house poke are outstanding. Meanwhile, Colombo’s Pizza and Pasta is an old-school institution that’s been serving up authentic Italian cuisine for 26 years and is better than ever. 

Where to Stay

You don’t get the full Big Sky Country experience by staying in some cookie-cutter, pseudo-luxury mountain lodge. Bodhi Farms is a unique lodging option allowing visitors to be part of the outdoors in complete comfort. The boutique eco-resort and permaculture farm is situated on Cottonwood Creek just south of downtown Bozeman with nine glamping tipis, a spa tipi, a wood-fired sauna, yoga classes and farm activities, all with incredible views of the Gallatin mountains. 

While the name is hyperbolic, Hardscrabble Ranch is another great option for people looking to immerse themselves in the Montana mountains. The property has luxurious canvas glamping tents set alongside the scenic Brackett Creek, all featuring handcrafted beds and furniture along with decks to soak in the views of nearby Ross Peak. Hardscrabble also features two lodges with a hip, minimalist aesthetic. The rooms and shared spaces have modern mountain décor and wooden art installations for a quirky mountain vibe.   

Built in 1919 and originally called the Halfway Inn because it marked the midpoint between Bozeman and West Yellowstone, Rainbow Ranch is a Montana classic. The lodge is set on the banks of the Gallatin River with a rustic yet elegant construction that is right at home in Big Sky. The infinity pool hot tub offers incredible views and is a perfect spot for a relaxing soak at the end of a long day exploring the mountains and rivers in Southwest Montana. 

Road Trip 1: Glacier Country Trip

Start: Columbia Falls / End: Eureka

Things are bigger in Glacier Country. From the scale of the mountains in Glacier National Park to the limitless recreation opportunities in Whitefish, enjoy the expansive wilderness and vibrant outdoor activities unique to Montana.  

1. Rafting the Great Bear Wilderness

Paddle outrageously scenic whitewater on the Flathead River with Glacier Guides. Eco-conscious trips in Glacier National Park are an unforgettable way to experience pristine wilderness. Spend the night at Two Medicine Campground and refuel at Two Medicine Grill with some huckleberry pie. 

2. Travel the Going-To-The-Sun Road

The 50-mile long Going-To-The-Sun Road bisects Glacier National Park, crossing the continental divide at Logan Pass. Open only in summer, the scenic byway passes by glacial lakes, through cedar forests and into alpine tundra. It’s a remarkable place for a road bike ride or a gorgeous drive. There’s a free shuttle for hikers to try the 10-mile roundtrip Siyeh Pass Trail. 

3. Explore Whitefish

The famed resort town is built along a seven-mile-long glacial lake with Whitefish Mountain Resort looming high above. Rent a mountain bike to explore the town’s network of singletrack trails or take a SUP or kayak from Paddlefish Sports out to Whitefish City Beach. Sample classic Montana fare like the Elk Meatloaf at Tupelo Grille. 

4. Climb at Stone Hill near Eureka

Eureka is tucked into the far northwest corner of Montana, just six miles from the Canadian border. In this remote area near the Kootenai National Forest is the Stone Hill Climbing Area, where quartzite crags have more than 500 routes rated 5.10 or higher. Stop in at Rocky Mountain Outfitter in Kalispell for some beta. 

5. Hike Kootenai Falls near Libby

Kootenai Country remains wild. The Revenant and The River Wild were both filmed here for a reason. Hike to Kootenai Falls, the largest undammed falls in the state and take in views of the Kootenai River while crossing the iconic Kootenai Falls Swinging Bridge.  

Road Trip 2: Hot Spring Heaven

Start: Boiling River in Gardner / End: Chico Hot Springs in Pray

Adventure in the mountains can be an exhausting endeavor, so why not partake in one of the most relaxing activities possible? The Treasure State is home to scores of natural, mineral-rich hot springs. Take a dip.  

1. Boiling River

Immerse yourself in completely natural hot springs around the Boiling River. Set in Yellowstone National Park, there’s no resort or infrastructure, just hot and cool water entering the Gardiner River, creating the perfect temperature for a soak.   

2. Spa Hot Springs

Flathead Blackfeet and Crow tribes considered the valley where Spa Hot Springs is located neutral ground so everyone could experience the healing properties of the water in peace. Today you can enjoy two outdoor pools, an indoor pool and a lodge on site. 

3. Norris Hot Springs

Stay for the night at Norris Hot Springs where an onsite campsite, restaurant and live music have everything you need for entertainment and relaxation. The eco-friendly pools are drained each night and the water is recycled back into its natural spring.

4. Bozeman Hot Springs

For more than 100 years, people have rejuvenated with a dip in Bozeman Hot Springs in the heart of the Gallatin Valley. The springs range in temperature from 59 to 104 degrees so you can find the right temperature no matter where you prefer the thermostat set. 

5. Chico Hot Springs Resort and Spa

Chico Hot Springs is the perfect base camp for outdoor adventure. Whether you want to explore Yellowstone National Park, go fly fishing or hike the mountains above Paradise Valley, the 103-degree pools and on-site lodging with cozy cabins mean you can end your day with a relaxing soak. 

Road Trip 3: Big Horn and Beyond

Start: Billings / End: Billings

American history is written into the Montana landscape. Everyone knows Custer died at Little Bighorn. What this road trip presupposes is maybe his legacy didn’t? With apologies to Eli Cash, hit the road from Bighorn to the Badlands with pictographs, cemeteries and canyons, following historic trails etched in time.

1. Pictograph Cave State Park

Leave Billings heading south to Pictograph Cave State Park to follow in the footsteps of prehistoric hunters who inhabited the area 2,000 years ago. More than 100 pictographs endure on the walls of Pictograph, Middle and Ghost Caves. 

2. Pompeys Pillar National Monument

The 200-foot-tall sandstone rising above the Yellowstone River is a testament to western frontier history. The rock face is covered in drawings from over the centuries, and Captain William Clark carved his signature and the date into the rock. It’s the only site on the Lewis and Clark Trail where evidence of the expedition is visible to the public. 

3. Range Riders Museum and Montana Bar

Eastbound to Miles City. Stop at the Range Riders Museum for exhibits on the town’s Native and pioneer heritage. Afterward, taste history at the Montana Bar. Opened in 1908, the authentic western bar is almost unchanged with steer heads and taxidermy on the walls, original Italian floor tile and wooden booths, and, of course, a steakhouse serving up Montana beef. 

4. Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument

Visit the site of Custer’s last stand, honoring the memory of the American Indian warriors and U.S. Cavalry soldiers who died during battle in 1876. Explore the area with Apsaalooke Tours, which employs Crow Indians as guides, from the Reno-Benteen Battlefield, where the battle began, to Last Stand Hill, where it infamously ended.   

5. Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area

Turn south to the Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area, which is referred to as the “Grandest Canyon in the Northern Rockies.” More than 70,000 acres straddle the Montana/Wyoming border with numerous recreation opportunities, like trout fishing in the river below Afterbay Dam. (linksmagazine.com)

6. Chief Plenty Coups State Park

Nestled in the base of the Pryor Mountains, Chief Plenty Coups State Park is one of only three U.S. State Parks located on an American Indian reservation. Visit the home of Chief Plenty Coups—a National Historic Landmark—the last chief of the Crow. There’s no camping in the park, so head back to Billings for the evening.

Road Trip 4: Meander the Missouri River

Start: Fort Benton / End: Havre

From its headwaters at the confluence of the Gallatin, Madison and Jefferson Rivers, the Missouri River cuts a meandering swath across Montana. Journey through expansive landscapes to the relics of the Old West.

1. Canoe From Fort Benton

The historic settlement of Fort Benton was once the starting point for navigating the Missouri, and today it’s a popular launching point for recreational river trips. Adventure Bound Canoe rents all the gear you need or can lead guided trips down the Missouri, where you’ll float and camp in remarkable settings.  

2. Fishing and Poetry in Lewiston

A ranching community in the center of Montana brings together western tradition and outdoor recreation like few other places. Anglers can enjoy outstanding brook trout fishing along the Judith River, while those in search of a more cultural experience can check out the Mountain Cowboy Poetry Gathering and the Western Music Rendezvous, both in Lewiston. 

3. Birding and Beer in Malta

The Bowdoin National Wildlife refuge is home to more than 260 bird species. 84,000 acres of wetlands and native prairie provide habitat to an enormous variety of wildlife. Take in the sights through binoculars then tip one back at the Blue Ridge Brewing. 

4. Play and Plays at Fort Peck

Fort Peck sits at the head of the 134-mile-long reservoir of the same name where the walleye and northern pike practically jump out of the water. After pulling up anchor, visit the historic Fort Peck Theatre to catch a musical or play. 

5. History in Havre

The Bear Paw battlefield near Havre—one of the three sites of the Nez Perce Historic Park—is where Chief Joseph spoke his famous words, “From where the sun now stands, I will fight no more forever,” surrendering to the Army, ending the Nez Perce War in 1877. A groomed, mile-long interpretive trail winds through the historic battlefield. Afterward, head back to Havre for some wonderful baked goods and sandwiches at local favorite, Grateful Bread.

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For more travel ideas head to visitmt.com. This is the travel feature from our September/October issue. Read our editor’s letter introducing the issue here and subscribe here. Explore our road trip series in Idaho, Colorado and Wyoming.

After 2020 wrecked even the best-laid travel plans, many of us learned to appreciate the simple pleasures of a good, old-fashioned road trip. Yonder Escalante (2020 West, UT-12, Escalante), which opened in April near the sprawling rock formations of Bryce Canyon and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, is a cozy home base for your next desert adventure.

The resort features 10 newly renovated, retro-cool airstreams and 22 A-framed cabins with mid-century modern flair. Designer Hannah Collins of ROY Hospitality Design Studio curated an aesthetic that marries 1960s Americana with contemporary desert style. Cabins feature eclectic vintage decor and diverse materials including exposed birch plywood, soft leather and linen finishes.

“Our design was made to accentuate Yonder Escalante’s fundamental ethos of adventure and discovery, but also incorporate elements of elegance, comfortability and nostalgia,” Collins explains. In keeping with the old-school theme, the 20-acre site is built on a former drive-in theater. A revamped version of the drive-in—along with a casual open-air lodge, a lavish lounge pool and spa-inspired private bathhouses—adds to the resort’s luxurious outdoor experience. With sweeping views, clever design and endless opportunities for outdoor exploration, Yonder Escalante just might inspire you to pack up a vintage car and hit the road.

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Explore more adventures from Salt Lake.

The ridgeline cut a toothy silhouette across the eastern sky. The stillness in the air, a serene contrast to the dramatic peaks piercing the horizon, was undercut only by the heartbeat pounding in my chest. The Buffalo Drop loomed. On the previous lap I’d taken the cheater line around the aptly-named feature. The rock roll feels as though you’re jumping a mountain bike into a steep landing off the back of the largest bison imaginable. My ego couldn’t stomach skipping it again. It wasn’t that large. Not compared to the gargantuan Tetons I was gaping at, anyway. 

After a few deep breaths while pretending the impressive vista, rather than lurking dread, was precipitating my delay, I conquered the precipice through some combination of luck and advanced engineering. The modern mountain bike is a wonderful thing, indeed. The Buffalo Drop is a notable centerpiece of Grand Targhee’s mountain bike park (3330 Ski Hill Rd., Alta, Wyo., 307-353-2300) but just one of an expanding network of trails crisscrossing down the mountain. Chunky descents with cascading rock rolls through forested slopes and ultra-smooth sweeping berms through alpine meadows can be found in equal measure. Complete beginner or seasoned expert, Targhee’s bike park has something for any rider. And everyone can enjoy the views. 

Grand Targhee—technically in Wyoming but just a stone’s throw from its burgeoning mountain town base in Driggs, Idaho—is best known for the walloping winter storms that frequently deposit far more snow on its slopes than its better-known counterpart on the lee side of the range, Jackson Hole, receives. The resort, and surrounding community in Teton Valley, is fast making a name for itself as a summer destination in its own right. Hop in the car and find out for yourself. The quiet side might just be the grander side of the Tetons.  

Can You Driggs It? 

Teton Valley has long been something of an hidden gem in the Gem State. It’s in part due to flashier locales in and adjacent to the state, like Sun Valley and Jackson Hole, absorbing broader attention. Teton Valley is gradually transforming from an agricultural and ranching community into one built on recreational tourism. It’s part of a long evolution of the area, the ancestral lands of the Shoshone-Bannock and Northern Paiute Indian tribes, which, in typical American fashion, has a checkered history marked by calamity and reinvention. The 19th Century Rocky Mountain Rendezvous, an annual gathering organized by fur trading companies, has been replaced with the Wydaho Rendezvous, a bike festival hosted by Grand Targhee each summer. The former abandoned the area following the infamous battle of Pierre’s Hole in 1832. The latter, thankfully, is famous for the “sloshie,” a delightful frozen boozy concoction at the Trap Bar (3330 Ski Hill Rd., Alta, Wyo.). Times change, but the spirit of exploration and community has undeniably carried over on the western slope of the Tetons. 

Where to Play 

Exploring Teton Valley doesn’t necessitate an adrenaline rush. As we found, those incredible mountain vistas are often best enjoyed from a serene perch while literally floating. An early-morning wake-up call is worth it for a ride with Elevated Ballooning (98 E. Little Ave., Driggs, 208-709-0777). Upon returning to earth, we opted for another type of float, this time down the Teton River. Teton River Supply (107 W. Bates Rd., Driggs, 208-534-8784) rents a variety of inflatable vessels from kayaks to stand up paddleboards to canoes starting at just $45 per day and will even arrange a complimentary shuttle from the shop in Driggs to the put-in and take-out of your choice. The snaking journey down the Teton River is languid, relaxed and perfect for soaking in those mountain views. 

Eager to more intimately explore the stunning terrain of the Targhee National Forest, we headed out for a hike the following morning. For a quick family-friendly jaunt, we went to the Sheep Bridge Trail, a roughly five-mile out-and-back that follows Teton Creek. For a far more adventurous and arduous undertaking, head up to Table Mountain. On the trek you’ll have remarkable views of the Tetons as well as Mount Owen and Teewinot Mountain.  

Back from the trail, it was time to wind down with some tunes. Every Thursday night through August 12, the Teton Valley Foundation hosts Music on Main at the Victor City Park (80 N. Main St., Victor). Some of the best musical acts from all over the country hit the stage from 6 p.m. until 10 p.m. Local food vendors serve up a variety of wonderful cuisine to help keep the audience’s energy high, and beer, wine and hard seltzer sales help fund the Teton Valley Foundation. 

Where to Eat and Drink 

A strong craft beverage culture permeates Teton Valley, so a local brewery tour is on tap. Start by renting a hybrid cruiser bike from Peaked Sports (70 E. Little Ave., Driggs, 208-354-2354) and take an eight-mile scenic ride on the rail trail to Victor for a pint at Grand Teton Brewing (430 Old Jackson Hwy., Victor, 888-899-1656) and then Wildlife Brewing Company (145 S Main St., Victor, 208-787-2623). For something a little different, stop in at Highpoint Cider (7565 Lupine Ln., Victor, 307-264-2151) before heading back down the path to Driggs for a nightcap and some appetizers at Citizen 33 Brewery (364 N. Main St., Driggs, 208-354-207).

A liquid diet won’t cut it when you’re in the mountains all day, and there’s some incredible food options throughout Teton Valley. Start your day with a gourmet doughnut from Yeti’s Post (98 E. Little Ave., Driggs, 208-354-1444) or a breakfast sandwich from Victor Valley Market (5 S. Main St., Victor, 208-787-2230), where you can win a massive cookie if you correctly answer the day’s trivia question. For a midday refuel, check out Big Hole BBQ (22 W. Center St., Victor, 208-270-9919) for brisket and smoked wings or to Captain Ron’s Smokehouse (415 Main St., Driggs, 307-690-1298) for a burger with pimento cheese and bacon.

Wrap things up in the evening with a Neapolitan-style pie from Tatanka Tavern (18 N. Main St., Driggs, 208-227-8744). The Fungus Amongus with garlic oil and roasted mushrooms is a delight. For something a bit spicier, stop in at the legendary Teton Thai (18 N., Main St., Driggs, 208-787-8424) for authentic Thai cuisine—the Gang Karee Beef Curry is a favorite—and a local beverage from the in-house brewery. Try the Money Penny British Pale Ale.

Where to Stay 

Glamping right at the base of Teton Pass at Moose Creek Ranch (2733 E. 10800 South, Victor, 208-510-0216) really fits the vibe of Teton Valley better than a luxury hotel. Deluxe tents, cabins and even customized airstreams make for a variety of glamping options depending on how rustic you want to get. Rates start at $129 per night. 

Located on the bank of the Teton River, Teton Valley Lodge (3733 Adams Rd., Driggs, 208-354-2386) is an all-inclusive fishing resort in the heart of Teton Valley with 25 fishable sections of river and excellent guides—not to mention charming—private one, two and three-bedroom cabins and great food. A variety of all-inclusive packages and separate day-trip activities are available. 

Teton Teepee Lodge (440 W. Alta Ski Hill Rd., Alta, Wyo., 307-353-1000) is just over the border in Alta, Wyo., a few miles from Driggs. This lodge is a unique, affordable basecamp, with 18 rooms around circular common area with a fireplace. Rooms start at $129.

ROAD TRIP 1

Rockhound Road Trip

Start: City of Rocks / End: Riggins

Whether you’re a rock climber, an avid hiker, a geology enthusiast or simply enjoy some dramatic mountain views along the way, Idaho’s geology has transformed the landscape into an incredible playground. 

1. City of Rocks National Reserve

On the southern Idaho border, the surreal spires rising above the City of Rocks are composed of uniquely pocketed granite. It’s a mecca for rock climbers, but even the less vertically inclined can enjoy the history of Camp and Register Rocks, where hundreds of 19th-century signatures were written in axle grease by travelers on the California Trail.   

2. Castle Rocks State Park

Sharing a ranger station with the City of Rocks, Castle Rocks has a wealth of mountain biking and horseback riding trails. You can also sign up for guided rock-climbing trips on the many granite routes throughout the park. 

3. Craters of the Moon National Monument

750,000 acres near Arco are covered in basaltic lava from a volcanic eruption thousands of years ago. Hulking cinder buttes and snaking lava tubes compose the dreamlike landscape. Survey the scenery from Devil’s Orchard and explore the swirling lava tubes of the Caves Trail. 

4. Land of the Yankee Fork State Park

Head up the Salmon River Scenic Byway to the Land of the Yankee Fork State Park. The scattered collection of gold-mining era ghost towns—Bonanza and the wonderfully-restored Custer—are a portal to a bygone time.   

5. Stanley and Redfish Lake

The Sawtooth Mountains loom above the quaint downtown of Stanley. The mountains offer incredible hiking opportunities but are perhaps best enjoyed from a kayak on nearby Redfish Lake where the toothy peaks reflect off the water’s surface.   

6. Hells Canyon

West of the ski town of McCall is Hells Canyon, a nearly 8,000-foot-deep gorge cut by the Snake River through a volcanic basalt plateau. You can explore the deepest river gorge in North America on a jet boat tour with River Adventures in Riggins.  

ROAD TRIP 2

Northern Idaho Wine Country Tour

Start: Lewiston / End: Sandpoint

Northern Idaho isn’t all about rock climbing, hiking and mountain biking. There’s a more relaxed side of the panhandle in wine country. Bring a corkscrew and get ready to tip your glass with the Gem State’s finest winemakers. 

1. Lewiston

Idaho winemaking originated in the Lewis-Clark Valley in the 1870s with French immigrant Louis Desol. It remains the heart of Idaho wine country today and was named the state’s newest American Viticultural Area. A host of outstanding wineries, including Clearwater Canyon Cellars—the gorgeous patio overlooks the Syrah grapes, so give that a try for a multi-sensory meta tasting—Lindsay Creek Vineyards and Vine 46. 

2. Moscow

From Lewiston head to Moscow, a surprisingly lively town that’s home to the University of Idaho and numerous winemakers. Stop in for a sampling at the Colter’s Creek tasting room in Moscow or visit their other location just down the road in Juliaetta to try the eponymous Juliaetta Rosè. The Juliaetta location is situated right on Potlatch Creek, formerly named Colter’s Creek (after the famous scout John Colter who was part of the Lewis and Clark expedition through the area in the early 19th century). 

3. Coeur d’Alene

Spend your morning on the water in search of some classic summer fun before heading to Coeur d’Alene Cellars. In the tasting room—nicknamed Barrel Room No. 6—try a few favorite vintages along with some hors d’oeuvres like the meat and cheese board. Come on a Saturday evening for some live music to accompany your tasting. 

4. Sandpoint

Sandpoint’s historic downtown winemakers stick to tradition. The Pend d’Oreille Winery uses classic French winemaking methods in a restored building featuring original brick walls. The Cabernet Franc pairs well with the traditional French vibe, as well as with the hand-tossed pizzas.  

ROAD TRIP 3 

Hot Springs, History & Watering Holes

Start: Boise / End: Lowman

Idaho has a rich western tradition rooted in exploration and the outdoors. Ramble through the state’s remarkable landscapes to discover mountains, hot springs and plenty of history along the way.   

1. Boise

Start your trip in the Gem State’s capital. Explore the network of trails, crisscrossing the town’s foothills, aboard a mountain bike. After that, enjoy a beverage from one of Boise’s dozens of local breweries. You can’t leave without trying the sour and barrel-aged brews from Barbarian.  

2. Bruneau Dunes State Park

Climb the sandy peaks of Bruneau Dunes State Park and catch a stunning sunset while you’re at it. Created in part by the Bonneville Flood during the last ice age, the dunes uniquely form from the center of the basin, which has acted as a natural trap for 12,000 years. 

3. Banbury Hot Springs and Blue Heart Springs

Start with a soak in the soothing, natural Banbury Hot Springs. After spending the night, rent a kayak and paddle to Blue Heart Springs, a natural oasis with crystal clear, Caribbean blue water surrounded by lava rock walls. You won’t believe you’re still in Idaho.   

4. Sun Valley

Sun Valley needs little introduction, but the home of the world’s first chairlift is an incredible summer destination, too. Go for a soak in Frenchman’s Bend Hot Springs, enjoy some fly-fishing with Silver Creek Outfitters along the legendary Silver Creek and wrap it up with some prime rib from the famous Pioneer Saloon and a beer from Grumpy’s in downtown Ketchum. 

5. Galena Lodge

Head north from Ketchum to the Galena Lodge. Hike and mountain bike on the nearby trails through the remote, scenic wilderness before spending the night at one of the Lodge’s fully furnished yurts. Just bring your own food to cook. 

6. Pine Flats Hot Springs

Head back towards Boise if you plan to finish where you started, but spend a final night at the Pine Flats Campground and Hot Springs. A series of hot springs line the nearby Payette River, where a warm, relaxing soak comes with incredible mountain views near Lowman. 

ROAD TRIP 4 

Golfer’s Delight

Start: Coeur d’Alene / End: Bear Lake

Don’t leave home without the crooked sticks because Idaho is a paradise for golfers. World-class courses with unique layouts in incredible settings are scattered throughout the state. Tee it up and take your best shot. 

1. Coeur d’Alene Resort

Kick-off your golf journey with a one-of-a-kind experience at the Coeur d’Alene Resort Golf Course. The movable, floating island green on 14—the only one of its kind in the world—requires a boat to reach and hides 11 feet of its structure below the water’s surface. 

2. Jug Mountain Ranch

Jug Mountain Ranch was built to showcase Idaho’s natural beauty with the 18-hole course integrating the terrain, water and trees into its design. In addition to renowned aesthetics, Jug Mountain Ranch is noted for offering unbeatable value. 

3. Warm Springs Golf Course

A spacious, 18-hole championship course is just minutes from downtown Boise at Warm Springs. The well-shaded course is along the banks of the scenic Boise River and is a perfect place to spend the morning before venturing into Idaho’s cultural epicenter. 

4. Sun Valley Resort Golf Courses

Talk about options. Sun Valley Resort near Ketchum has three courses—Trail Creek, White Clouds and Elkhorn—with 45 holes and an endless supply of mountain vistas. You can even catch a glimpse of Ernest Hemingway’s Idahome while hacking it up at White Clouds. 

5. Bear Lake West Golf Course

Not every day on the links needs to be hoity-toity and exclusive. Sometimes you just want to hit it around for a half-day in a beautiful place. The nine-hole Bear Lake West Golf Course is the perfect place to do just that while leaving enough time to explore other recreation Bear Lake has to offer.  

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For more travel ideas, head to visitidaho.org. This feature is part of Salt Lake magazine’s 2021 Travel Series. Read our road trips to Colorado and Wyoming.

My left hand clung desperately to the perimeter rope as I craned my neck keeping my face above the whitewash. The chill of the Arkansas’s churning water hit with a shock even though we’d discussed the possibility of our raft flipping just minutes earlier. Hoisting myself back atop the inflatable craft, I took a gasping string of breaths after gulping down river water.  

The line was sound, and our paddles were in the water, but it was hopeless with just two paddlers in such a light raft. Our guide from Blazing Adventures (555 E. Durant Ave., Aspen, 970-923-4544) had hinted at the futility of taking on the meaty line through Brown’s Canyon at high water, and I got the sense he was secretly looking forward to tossing me in the drink. We’d worked together as raft guides in the Northeast after graduating college and I’d gone soft sitting behind a computer. But the excitement was exactly what we’d signed up for—whitewater’s in the name, after all—and I was secretly grateful the sudden swim had cut through my foggy head from the prior evening out on the town. 

Burning the candle at both ends is part and parcel of being in Aspen. Early morning wakeups for multi-sport days in the mountains lead to late nights around town. As mountain towns go, Aspen isn’t exactly quaint, but as a home base to explore the Roaring Fork Valley it isn’t dull. Utahns have a healthy rivalry with our Colorado neighbors, but that comes with genuine respect for the immense landscapes and quirky culture permeating the Centennial State’s mountain communities. Load up the car with as much gear as it can carry and don’t forget to throw in the formal western wear. It’s time see if the grass really is greener in the high wild hills of Colorado. 

A Little Place Called Aspen Roaring Fork Valley 

“If we can’t win in Aspen, we can’t win anywhere,” failed Pitkin County Sheriff candidate Hunter S. Thompson told The New York Times in 1970. The Gonzo prophet’s doomed bid for elected office had garnered nearly 46% of the vote, a losing but nevertheless surprisingly robust ration considering one of the campaign’s pillars was changing the town’s name to Fat City to “prevent greedheads, land-rapers and other human jackals from capitalizing on the name ‘Aspen.’” The town, oft regarded as a haven for the ultra-wealthy, has clearly always maintained an iconoclast streak. 

Thriving among the vibe-chasing influencers in mountain-adjacent Balenciaga clothing and cowpoke cosplaying interlopers is a collection of river rats, artists, ski bums, chefs, brewers and distillers. These personalities, frequently relegated to the background behind Aspen’s glossy veneer, are as integral to the town’s character as the eponymous resort’s gondola, the historic mining infrastructure and the hulking edifice looming over the Roaring Fork Valley, Mount Sopris. Freak Power reigns, election results be damned. Whether that means exploring oxygen-depleted heights above treeline in the surrounding Elk Mountains or plumbing the depths of a whiskey glass in a dimly-lit local dive, it’s waiting here for you to carry on the legacy.  

Where to Play

After receiving a good thrashing in rapids of Brown’s Canyon, I thought it best to recuperate in some warmer, more placid waters northwest of town in Glenwood Springs. The mineral pool in Glenwood Hot Springs Pool (415 E. 6th St., Glenwood Springs, 970-945-6571) is the largest in the world, drawing from the 3.5 million gallons of water produced each day by the Yampah spring. For years I’d driven right through Glenwood Springs on the way to and from mountain misadventures. Once I’d “taken the waters” from the 104-degree therapy pool, I realized my mistake. Invigorated, I headed to the spiritual home of Freak Power at the Gonzo Gallery (601 E. Hyman Ave., Aspen, 970-510-0656). Inside is an eclectic collection of gunshot art from “Doctor” Hunter S. Thompson himself as well a selection from his collaborators and compatriots, including political posters produced by activist Thomas W. Benton and artwork by subversive illustrator and Gonzo sidekick Ralph Steadman. The Gonzo Gallery is a fitting tribute to the legacy of these artists, who would delight in the legalized cannabis available throughout the town.

Post-Gonzo, it was time to hit the waterway for which the valley is named, the Roaring Fork River. Being the inept fly fisherman I am, I sought out some guidance from the local experts at Elk Mountain Anglers (100 Smuggler Mountain Rd., Aspen, 970-456-6287). A half-day wade fishing trip just minutes from downtown Aspen saw me land a couple of trout that would have certainly evaded my hook had I gone it alone. 

I’d spent quite a lot of time in the waterways dissecting the area, but not much time high in the hills, so I hopped aboard my mountain bike to grind out the Snowmass to Aspen shuttle ride. If you need to rent a bike or get some trail beta, head to Hub of Aspen (616 E. Hyman Ave., Aspen, 970-925-7970). They have a great rental fleet and a wealth of insider info. We left a car at Buttermilk’s Tiehack lot and shuttled to Snowmass to start the 18-mile ride. We shuttled back just in time to catch the Thursday Night Concert Series at Snowmass, kicking back to listen to live tunes with a frosty beverage in hand. 

Where to Eat and Drink

Aspen’s tendency to late nights that make for hazy mornings means it’s prudent to kickstart the day. Head to the Marble Distilling (150 Main St., Carbondale, 970-963-7008) for the best Bloody Mary in the valley, made with vodka from Colorado grains and water. It’ll shake out the cobwebs.

For a more substantial breakfast, there’s no better place than Mawa’s Kitchen (305 Aspen Airport Business Center, Aspen, 970-710-7096). Chef Mawa McQueen serves up delightful twists on traditional brunch fare. The Maine Smoked Salmon Benedict and the Croque Madame are both favorites. 

When it’s time to fuel up midday, head to the Meat and Cheese Restaurant (319 E. Hopkins Ave., Aspen, 970-710-7120). The menu extends far beyond what’s in its name with inspired cuisine merging multiple influences. Try the Bánh Mi and Korean Fried Chicken. 

In the evening, sidle up at the J-Bar (330 E. Main St., Aspen, 970-920-1000) for a Flat Iron Steak and Chevre Cheese Cake. 

Catch last call at The Red Onion (420 E. Cooper Ave., 970-925-9955). The local’s favorite hosts the most eclectic collection of personalities in town, mixed with affordable drinks and delicious fare, including everything from classic Colorado Buffalo Burgers to Pistachio-Panko Chicken Schnitzel. 

Where to Stay 

Hotel Jerome (330 E. Main St., Aspen, 970-920-1000) The historic hotel just steps away from the base of Aspen Mountain has been an institution in town since 1889. Decades before Aspen became an exclusive retreat, through the silver boom and bust, through the Great Depression and the rise of American recreational skiing, the Hotel Jerome hosted all manner of travelers. It’s eccentric, it’s old and it’s luxurious. It’s damn-near perfect. 

Aspen Meadows Resort (845 Meadows Rd., Aspen, 970-925-4240) Nestled in Aspen’s quiet West End, the resort’s 40-acre property is home to both an elegant mid-century lodge and several art galleries. The Resnick Art Gallery features works by Herbert Bayer, while the Paepcke Art Gallery hosts a rotating collection of artwork. Art installations like the serpentine “Stone River” provide an immersive experience unlike at any other hotel in the area. 

St. Moritz Lodge (334 W. Hyman Ave., Aspen, 970-925-3220) With shockingly economical rates for Aspen and flexible lodging options, St. Moritz Lodge is perfect for those who’d rather spend their cash adventuring in the mountains. The classic European-style chalet lodge has standard hotel rooms, condominiums and even private hostel rooms with shared bathrooms for the budget-minded traveler. Topping it all off, St. Moritz Lodge is located within walking distance from the heart of town. 

ROAD TRIP 1 

History to Hot Springs in the Hills

Starting Point: Colorado Springs / Ending Point: Salida 

Stand in awe among the Garden of the Gods and travel west through the Centennial State’s mining history to find hot springs, horseback rides and handcrafted cocktails. 

1. Garden of the Gods, Colorado Springs

The stunning sandstone formations throughout the Garden of the Gods rewired my brain when I first saw them decades ago. The magic still exists for every person who hikes and bikes beneath the Cathedral Valley. 

2. Western Museum of Mining & Industry, Colorado Springs

The insatiable thirst for ore drove settlement and development through much of the Mountain West. The museum digs into that past with interactive, historic exhibitions. 

3. Pikes Peak Cog Railway, Manitou Springs

Topping out on the summit of Pikes Peak at 14,110 feet, the Manitou and Pikes Peak Cog Railway is reopened for 2021 with new trains and a Strub rack-toothed rail system. 

4. Horseback Riding at Elk Mountain Ranch, Buena Vista

Daily trail rides through remote, mountain trails in the Colorado backcountry let you relive the region’s frontier history. Suitable rides are available for all ages and abilities. 

5. Deerhammer Distilling, Buena Vista

Blending traditional distilling processes with creative flavor profiles, Deerhammer is redefining what it means to be a truly independent American whiskey producer. 

6. Mt. Princeton Hot Springs, Nathrop

Soothe those aching muscles and saddle sores with a visit to the Mt. Princeton Hot Springs Resort. Scenic, natural hot springs and larger relaxation pools are the perfect place to kick back in healing, heated waters. 

7. Absolute Bikes, Salida

This full-service bike shop is the gateway to the immense mountain bike trail network at Salida’s doorstep. All the equipment, rentals and local beta you need to shred the local singletrack can be found here. 

ROAD TRIP 2 

San Juan Summer  

Starting Point: Delta / Ending Point: Durango

Sample Colorado’s lesser-known craft beverage from wineries nestled in Delta’s parched landscape. Head south for some high-altitude jams at one of the west’s most beloved music festivals and sign up for the adventure and a taste of a bygone era in Durango. The San Juans are home to the best of Southwestern Colorado. 

1. Stoney Mesa Winery, near Delta

One of Colorado’s oldest wineries, Stoney Mesa has been producing delightful vintages for more than three decades. The area’s mild climate is perfect for producing exquisite wines. 

2. Mesa Winds Farm and Winery, near Delta

In addition to the six acres of land the winery uses to produce grapes, Mesa Winds also grows 14 acres of organic peaches and apples, which they sell on their own and use to produce fruit-infused wine varieties.  

3. Telluride Bluegrass Festival, Telluride 

The iconic music festival set in dramatic surroundings returns for the 47th year and runs from June 17-20. This one isn’t to be missed for the banjo enthusiasts out there.

4. Telluride and Mountain Village Gondola, Telluride

This free gondola shuttles people over the 10,500-foot Coonskin Ridge to the base of the resort in just 13 minutes. It’s perfect for bikers, hikers, festival-goers or just those wanting a little aerial scenery. 

5. Bread, Durango

This simply named, iconic, cash-only bakery in Durango has an incredible selection of bread, pastries and sandwiches in a rustic, reimagined warehouse. 

6. Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, Durango

The historic steam engine runs the line from Durango to Silverton, providing a taste of history with incomparable views of the mountains and canyons of southwestern Colorado. 

ROAD TRIP 3 

Escape to the Elks

Starting Point: Montrose / Ending Point: Crested Butte

The journey from Montrose to Crested Butte is a transitional one. Geologically the terrain transforms from the arid chasm of the Black Canyon to the high peaks and thin air of Crested Butte. Along the way, the vibe evolves from ruggedly hardscrabble western to quirky mountain retreat. Get rolling and find enjoyment in every mile. 

1. Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, near Montrose

The 2,700 foot-deep chasm cutting through Precambrian rock on the Gunnison River receives just 33 minutes of sunlight per day. Visit the park to see the steepest, most dramatic 12-mile stretch.

2. Museum of the Mountain West, Montrose

Home to a collection of historic buildings including log cabins, shops and saloons, the Museum of the Mountain West preserves the living history of the pioneer era’s western expansion across the state of Colorado. 

3. Dillon Pinnacles Hike, Near Sapinero

A moderately difficult out-and-back hike just shy of four miles brings you to the Blue Mesa Reservoir surrounded by wildly eroded volcanic formations, the Dillon Pinnacles. Spectacular views of the distant San Juan peaks are an added bonus. 

4. High Alpine Brewing Company, Gunnison

With a delightful menu of brick-oven pizzas accompanying a wonderful selection of craft beers, like their Green Gate IPA and Sol’s Espresso Stout, High Alpine Brewing Company is a great stop for lunch or dinner. 

5. Gunnison Valley Observatory, Gunnison

A 30-inch reflector telescope lets you peer into deep space through dark skies free of light pollution. This ain’t your run-of-the-mill campfire star gazing. 

6. Camp 4 Coffee, Crested Butte

Fuel up for a day of adventure the right way with a caffeinated beverage from the quirky coffee shack right in the middle of town. 

7. Mountain Bike at Crested Butte Mountain Resort, Crested Butte

Crested Butte has staked its claim as the birthplace of modern mountain biking. See if your lungs and legs are up to the challenge with endless miles of pristine singletrack in the town’s thin air.  

8. Montanya Distillers, Crested Butte 

Wind things down with some award-winning rum and an eclectically delicious menu of cuisine right on historic Elk Ave. 

ROAD TRIP 4 

Front Range Adventure, Art and Brews

Starting Point: Fort Collins / Ending Point: Denver

Endless plains to the east suddenly jut skyward at the Front Range. More than just a gateway to the mountains, this area is the creative capital of Colorado, brimming with artists, brewers and adventurers. Dive in for full-pint glasses, captivating murals and, of course, a splash of outdoor exploration on Colorado’s Front Range. 

1. Odell Brewing Company, Fort Collins

The 20 breweries in Fort Collins produce 70% of Colorado’s craft beer, and it’s hard to do better than Odell Brewing. Stop into the brewery to try their latest, like the Witkist White Grapefruit Ale or a classic like the 90 Schilling Amber Ale. 

2. Kayaking in Poudre Canyon, Fort Collins 

Get your paddle on at the Poudre River Whitewater Park. Whether you’re an expert kayaker or just someone looking for a nice float in a tub, this park just north of Old Town is a unique treat.

3. The Art Hotel, Denver

Explore Denver’s burgeoning art scene from your accommodations at the Art. A curated collection of in-house art transforms your lodging into a rich museum experience, just steps away from the iconic Denver Art Museum. 

4. Denver Art Museum, Denver

The building itself is pretty much a work of art, but the inside boasts 70,000 pieces from around the world and across the centuries. You won’t find a better collection of art between the west coast and Chicago. 

5. Mural Tour by Bike, Denver

The city is decorated throughout with murals. Travel by bike to see expressions of civic pride (“Love This City” by Pat Millbury on W. 7th Ave and Santa Fe Dr) and celebrations of multicultural heritage (“Afro Flower Lady” by Jiacuy Roche at The Stanley Marketplace). 

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For more travel ideas, visit colorado.com and visitpueblo.com. Plan your next summera dventure with our Road Trip: Wyoming feature.

To me, golf has always just evoked images of stuffy businessmen in visors, and it is still officially the most boring sport to watch on TV. But I have to admit that it’s the perfect socially-distanced sport. A way to be outside, completely solo or with a small group of friends, golf is the rare sport where six feet of distance is an asset. Plus, when you get sick of hiking, scenic courses are an ideal way to take in a Utah spring, from the sweeping vistas of Park City to southern Utah’s dramatic red rocks.  Courses are taking extra precautions to reduce COVID-19 risks, from sanitizing on-course ball washers to disinfected carts. Personally, I’m most intrigued by something called GolfBoards, a mash-up of single-rider motorized scooters and golf carts that are ready to ride at several Utah courses. As the weather warms up, courses in northern Utah are reopening or expanding their hours, while locations down south are open all year.

Ready to get your golf game on? Check out these Utah courses.

BONNEVILLE GOLF CLUB

954 Connor St., SLC
slc-golf.com
801-583-9513

ENTRADA AT SNOW CANYON

2537 W. Entrada Trail, St. George
golfentrada.com 
435-986-2200

FOREST DALE GOLF COURSE

2375 S. 900 East, SLC
slc-golf.com
801-483-5420

RED LEDGES

205 Red Ledges Blvd., Heber 
redledges.com
877-733-5334

HOMESTEAD GOLF CLUB

700 N. Homestead Dr., Midway
playhomesteadgc.com
435-654-5588

SAND HOLLOW

5662 W. Clubhouse Dr., Hurricane
sandhollowresorts.com
435-656-4653

THANKSGIVING POINT GOLF CLUB

3300 W. Clubhouse Dr., Lehi
thanksgivingpointgolfclub.com
801-768-7401 

VICTORY RANCH

7865 N. Victory Ranch Dr., Kamas 
victoryranchutah.com
435-785-5000

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Need more ideas of fun things to do? Check out our adventures page.

Oh my God. It’s full of stars.” Mary exclaims, nodding to the famous line from 2001: A Space Odyssey. But what else can you say from underneath a blanket of stars on the outskirts of Jackson, Wyo.? We’re here out here craning our necks upwards on an expedition with Samuel Singer of Wyoming Stargazing (1085 WY-22 Unit D, Jackson, 844-996-7827). Singer is a science educator and astrophysics nut. He founded the nonprofit in 2013, primarily because he can’t not talk about the night sky, but officially to provide astronomy programs for school kids in the Jackson area. The group funds its efforts primarily through group stargazing tours like this one. Lucky us, no one else signed up for this evening’s outing and we’ve got Singer, and his endless knowledge and enthusiasm, all to ourselves (along with warm drinks, cozy blankets and a little bootlegged whiskey for medicinal purposes).

Wyoming’s night sky is as advertised. Jackson and the surrounding communities have long worked to meet dark sky standards in their planning and zoning, and though the lights of Jackson are visible, they are not interfering with the millions of twinkling stars above. And it doesn’t hurt that Singer hauls along a massive tracking telescope with a pro-level 20-inch mirror for us to get a closer look at the prominent stops on his tour of the heavens, and on your left Andromeda!

It was a thrilling welcome to the wonders of Wyoming. Last fall, Salt Lake magazine’s executive editor—the late, great Mary Brown Malouf—and I braved the pandemic and set out to explore one corner of the Cowboy State on a tour that started with the skies and took us down to the bottom of the Snake River Canyon, bucking down roaring white water.

JACKSON. NOT JACKSON HOLE.

Mistakenly known as Jackson Hole, Jackson, Wyo. is an insanely affluent town located in the geographical depression called “Jackson Hole,” In the early nineteenth century, mountain men, many dispatched by David E. Jackson of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, sought fur in this part of the Oregon Territory, expanding on the explorations of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. The area’s appeal to the wealthy and well-heeled, who make Teton County the most affluent per-capita zip code in the United States, is obvious. This is a stunningly beautiful country, and Jackson is perfectly situated in range of two of America’s greatest national parks, Grand Teton and Yellowstone. Grand Teton National Park occupies the northwestern part of the valley encompassing the iconic, jagged peaks of the Teton Range. The Town of Jackson sits at the southern end. The Snake River threads through the entire valley from its headwater in Yellowstone National Park. These parks are part of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, one of the last remaining large, nearly intact ecosystems in the northern temperate zone of the Earth.

WHERE TO RANGE

Our evening under the stars was followed by an early morning call time for pick up by our guide from Jackson Hole Wildlife Safaris (650 W. Broadway, Jackson, 307-690-6402). The all-day excursion was essentially a grand tour of the greatest hits of Yellowstone (like Old Faithful, Grand Prismatic Spring and Yellowstone Lake) punctuated by “hurry! look!” sightings of pronghorn antelope and roaming bison. And although we were skunked on seeing bears or wolves, our guide kept up a steady patter of folksy wisdom, facts and tall tales that kept us laughing and rolling our eyes as we trundled around Yellowstone and back. Jackson’s adventurous residents pride themselves on a well-organized and fully segregated network of biking trails in and out of town, so the next day I decided to see what all the fuss was about. On the advice of the folks at Hoback Sports (520 W. Broadway #3, Jackson, 307-733-5335) I saddled up for the 40-mile road bike ride to Jenny Lake in Grand Teton National Park (Bonus: The park’s entrance gate has the cutest little mini-bike sized fee station to enter via two wheels.) This excursion, on one of the most immaculate road bike trails I’ve ever ridden, runs entirely below the imposing peaks of the Tetons and delivers you to the lake’s shore. Hoback Sports also rents pedal-assist E-bikes if you’d rather not slug it out. While I was out grinding below the Tetons, Mary opted to take a scenic chair lift ride to get a birds-eye view of the Tetons, the National Elk Refuge and the town of Jackson from 1,571 feet up to the summit of Snow King Mountain (402 E. Snow King Ave., Jackson, 307-201- 5464) For our final day, we saved the best for last. Running the “daily,” four-hour whitewater trip down the Snake River, is one of Jackson’s bucket list items. We signed up with Lewis and Clark Expeditions (335 N. Cache St., Jackson, 307-733-4022) and climbed into a raft with our salty guide (the aptly named Orion Hatch) Captain Hatch was about to give us a master class in whitewater, expertly rowing us into the deepest holes and into the biggest waves. The “daily” builds with increasingly wild rapids that crescendo with its most notorious—the Big Kahuna and Lunch Counter—where, during high river flow, boats commonly flip. Even this late in the season, the biggest rapids on the daily did not disappoint and we emerged, soaking, laughing and happy to have followed our captain’s very first command: “everybody stay in the boat, OK?”

WHERE TO EAT

All of this adventure requires sustenance. Start at the Bunnery Bakery and Restaurant (130 N. Cache St., Jackson, 307-733-5474) where a hearty breakfast menu and a selection of housemade baked goods fill both bill and belly. (Also amazing pies. Who says you can’t have pie for breakfast?) Lured in by the scent of smoking brisket, we discovered Hatch Taqueria and Tequilas (120 W. Broadway, Jackson, 307-203-2780) a modern Mexican spot where that brisket comes in taco form alongside what we decided was the best margarita in Jackson, As oppressed Utahns, one of our best finds was Bin 22, (200 W. Broadway, Jackson, 307-739-9463) a combo wine store and wine bar. Choose from the curated selection behind the bar or pick any bottle from the store’s Spanish and Italian selection. Drink it on the spot with a selection of small bites. We never wanted to leave. The Hotel Jackson’s house bar and restaurant, Figs (120 N. Glenwood St., Jackson, 307-733- 2200), was a unique surprise, a Lebanese-Mediterranean restaurant in the heart of cowboy land (the hotel’s ownership is Lebanese). The grilled lamb chop was the standout on a solid menu of Lebanese standards, including authentically prepared hummus, interestingly customizable with a selection of traditionally prepared meats and spices. And how could we not venture into the venerable Wort Hotel’s Silver Dollar and Bar & Grill (50 N. Glenwood St., Jackson, 307-733- 2190) to check out the famous Silver Dollar Bar, throw back a couple and enjoy the menu of hearty pub fare.

WHERE TO STAY

The Lodge at Jackson Hole

A down-home, friendly spot that is close to town but set back a secluded grove of pine trees. The hearty hot breakfast made an excellent start to the day and we loved the hundreds of cute little wooden bears adorning the lodge’s detailed carved wooden interior and exterior.

80 Scott Ln., Jackson, 307-739-9703

Hotel Jackson 

A gorgeous modern luxury hotel, a western accent, in the heart of Jackson. We loved Figs, the hotel’s signature restaurant, and the efficient and impeccable service we witnessed from arrival to departure.

120 N. Glen- wood St., Jackson, 307-733- 2200

The Wort Hotel 

The word “charming” doesn’t say enough about this gorgeous boutique hotel. Built-in 1941, The Wort is the grand dame of Jackson Hotels. Its famous Silver Dollar Bar was designed and built by a German cabinet maker using 2,032 uncirculated Morgan Silver Dollars from the Denver mint.

50 N. Glenwood St., Jackson, 307- 733-2190

Snow King Mountain 

Snow King Mountain has four distinct properties at or near its base—The Elk Country Inn, 49er Inn & Suites, Antler Inn, Cowboy Village Resort and one on-mountain, ski-in-ski-out option, The Snow King Resort Hotel.

402 E. Snow King Ave., Jackson, 307- 201-5464

ROAD TRIP 1: SALT TO STONE

Welcoming small towns brimming with local flavor and stretches of unscathed wilderness await visitors traveling from Salt Lake City into southwest Wyoming and northward to Yellowstone. The Salt to Stone region is a colorful Adventureland waiting to be discovered by road trippers. Trace the footsteps of mountain men and women, discover dreamy vistas by foot, bike, or car—and tour museums and attractions that showcase Western culture at its finest.

STARTING POINT: Evanston, Wyo.

1. ROUNDHOUSE & RAIL YARDS, EVANSTON 

Evanston is home to one of the only remaining complete roundhouses on the old Union Pacific line between Omaha and Sacramento. This historical building—used by railroads to store and service locomotives — has a turntable that is still operational.

2. FORT BRIDGER STATE HISTORIC SITE, FORT BRIDGER

Several restored buildings highlight the history of this 19th-century fur-trading post, a vital supply stop for wagon trains traversing the Oregon, California and Mormon trails. Tour the reconstructed trading post and museum.

3. FOSSIL BUTTE NATIONAL MONUMENT, NEAR KEMMERER 

Colorful geologic formations rise about 1,000 feet above Twin Creek Valley and possess some of the world’s best-preserved fossils, including those of fish, insects, plants, reptiles, birds and mammals.

4. STAR VALLEY SCENIC BYWAY

This picturesque 80-mile stretch of Highway 89 starts at the Idaho-Wyoming border, climbs up Salt Canyon and Salt River Pass and descends into the sprawling and verdant Star Valley. Then the route continues through the quaint communities of Smoot, Afton, Grover, Thayne and Etna before reaching Alpine and ending at the Lincoln County line in Snake River Canyon.

5. JACKSON HOLE AERIAL TRAM, TETON VILLAGE 

Ride the tram in Teton Village up 4,139 feet to unparalleled wraparound views of Bridger-Teton National Forest and Grand Teton National Park.

ENDING POINT: Yellowstone National Park south entrance

ROAD TRIP 2: ROCKIES TO TETONS

Those pining for epic outdoor pursuits will find plenty to do on a road trip through the Rocky Mountains to the Teton Range in the Rockies to the Tetons region, where the beauty of the Snowy, Medicine Bow, Seminoe and Wind River mountain ranges heighten the scenery—literally. Immerse yourself in nature through activities like rock climbing, hiking and biking, and delve into Native American, women’s suffrage and frontier history.

STARTING POINT: Summit Information Center, Laramie, Wyo.

1. WYOMING HOUSE FOR HISTORIC WOMEN, LARAMIE

See exhibits on Louisa Gardner Swain—the first woman in the world to vote under the Wyoming Territory law granting women the right to vote and hold office—and 12 other local women who paved the way in the women’s suffrage movement.

2. WYOMING TERRITORIAL PRISON STATE HISTORIC SITE, LARAMIE

This historic site is rich with tales of “violent and desperate outlaws,” the most famous of which was Butch Cassidy. Browse exhibits on the penitentiary’s prisoners and how it became a center for agricultural experimentation for the University of Wyoming.

3. ALBANY LODGE, LARAMIE

Flanked by the Snowy Range, Laramie Plains and Medicine Bow National Forest, this lovingly restored 1907 hotel and cafe is a terrific home base for adventures in the surrounding wildlands.

4. GRAND ENCAMPMENT MUSEUM, ENCAMPMENT 

Wander through more than a dozen preserved historical buildings furnished with artifacts showcasing the history of the timber, mining and agricultural industries of the Upper Platte Valley at the turn of the 20th century. Don’t miss the two-story outhouse.

5. WYOMING FRONTIER PRISON, RAWLINS

More than 13,500 people were incarcerated at the “Old Pen” during its 80 years of operation, including 11 women. Tour the prison, built in 1901 just three blocks off Main Street, to gain insight into its fascinatingly dark past.

6. WOMEN’S SUFFRAGE PATHWAY, NEAR SOUTH PASS CITY

Drive the Wyoming Women’s Suffrage Pathway, a 19-mile segment of Highway 28 southwest of South Pass City. The 1860s-era mining town is where Esther Hobart Morris served as justice of the peace and became the first woman to hold political office in the U.S.

7. LANDER BAR, LANDER

Originally opened as a saloon in 1908, the bar served as a hotel, brothel and boarding house— among other things—before it was turned back into a saloon. Order a whiskey or craft beer, the perfect thirst quenchers after a day of rock climbing at nearby Sinks Canyon State Park.

8. WIND RIVER HOTEL & CASINO, RIVERTON

Learn about the past, present and future of the Eastern Shoshone and Northern Arapaho tribes who reside on the Wind River Reservation in the establishment’s Northern Arapaho Experience Room and try your luck at the casino.

9. NATIONAL BIGHORN SHEEP INTERPRETIVE CENTER, DUBOIS

The world’s largest wintering herd of bighorn sheep roams this remote area. Stop by the National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center to view exhibits about the majestic mammals and set up a guided or solo tour to see them in their natural habitat.

ENDING POINT: Yellowstone National Park south entrance

ROAD TRIP 3: PARK TO PARK

Follow the Park to Park Highway—a popular early 1900s auto route connecting 12 national parks in the West—to discover road-trip stops too special to ignore, from Wyoming’s lively capital city to quaint small towns that move at a refreshingly slower pace. Drop a line in one of the West’s most renowned fishing destinations, revel in prehistoric and natural wonders, and pick up perfect Wyoming mementos—like cowboy boots and local wine—to remember your journey.

STARTING POINT: Southeast Wyoming Welcome Center

1. TERRY BISON RANCH RESORT, CHEYENNE

Climb aboard a custom-built train for a ride out to the middle of the working ranch’s bison herd and bite into the Senator’s Steakhouse’s juicy bison burger, voted the Best Bison Burger in Wyoming by USA Today’s “10 Best.”

2. CHEYENNE BOTANIC GARDENS, CHEYENNE 

Linger in rose, herb, wetland, cacti and woodland gardens, admire the tropical plant collection in the stately Grand Conservatory and get an idea of what life was like for early Wyoming settlers in the historic Rotary Century Plaza.

3. TABLEMOUNTAIN VINEYARDS, NEAR TORRINGTON

Table Mountain Vineyards’ “pure Wyoming wine” is concocted from all-local ingredients. Make an appointment to stop in for sips of their semi-sweet Cowgirl Blush or the tart Cherry Rush.

4. GUERNSEY STATE PARK, GUERNSEY

Explore historical structures built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s, including a museum located at the top of a cliff that gives way to expansive views of a sparkling reservoir.

5. GLENDO STATE PARK, GLENDO

Sparkling Glendo Reservoir attracts boaters, water skiers, swimmers and anglers. Keep your eyes peeled for teepee rings and other artifacts left by Native American tribes who once inhabited the area.

6. JACKALOPE SQUARE, DOUGLAS

According to legend, the jackalope was born in Douglas when two brothers mounted a jackrabbit’s body with deer antlers at their taxidermy shop. Pose with the 8-foot statue of the creature at Jackalope Square. Don’t forget to tag #ThatsWY

7. AYRES NATURAL BRIDGE, DOUGLAS 

Discover a 100-foot-long natural rock arch spanning La Prele Creek west of Douglas. This oasis has a short trail that leads to a view of the “bridge” from above, as well as picnic tables that offer a break from the road.

8. LOU TAUBERT RANCH OUTFITTERS, CASPER 

This downtown Casper institution has supplied locals and visitors with boots, hats and other Western essentials since 1919. With more than 10,000 pairs of boots in stock, you’re sure to find the perfect fit.

9. WYOMING DINOSAUR CENTER & DIG SITES, THERMOPOLIS

Hundreds of displays and more than 30 mounted skeletons tell storied tales of Wyoming’s prehistoric past. See the Archaeopteryx specimen—one of only 10 in the world—or opt for a dig-site tour, where you can dig for fossils yourself.

10. WIND RIVER CANYON, NEAR THERMOPOLIS

Travel through time on the Wind River Canyon Scenic Byway in Thermopolis to catch glimpses of Wind River Canyon’s 2,500-foot, pink-hued rock walls, which date back to the Precambrian period, as well as bighorn sheep and other wildlife. Keep an eye out for signage highlighting the canyon’s geology along the way.

ENDING POINT: Yellowstone National Park south entrance

ROAD TRIP 4: BLACK TO YELLOW

Stories of the American West echo throughout the Black to Yellow region, home to kaleidoscopic landscapes and iconic sights. During your journey from northeast Wyoming’s Black Hills to Yellowstone, discover geologic marvels, dense evergreen forests and sprawling prairie lands. Step into the past to meet larger-than-life characters like Buffalo Bill Cody and find out what life was like in Wyoming during different periods in history.

STARTING POINT: Wyoming-South Dakota border, near Northeast Wyoming Welcome Center, Beulah

1. VORE BUFFALO JUMP, NEAR BEULAH

Stop by the small interpretive center to gain insight into how this natural sinkhole was used as a buffalo jump (a buffalo trap) from about 1500 to 1800 A.D. by at least five different Plains Indian tribes.

2. ALADDIN GENERAL STORE, ALADDIN 

Groceries, fishing supplies, Western wear and antiques are just a few things you’ll find at this gem, a general store built in 1896. Be sure to pick up some old-fashioned candy or sarsaparilla to enjoy on the front porch.

3. DEVILS TOWER NATIONAL MONUMENT, NEAR HULETT & SUNDANCE

Hike one of the four scenic trails at America’s first national monument, a 1,267-foot striated rock tower that gained fame as the filming site for Steven Spielberg’s “Close Encounters of the Third Kind.”

4. FRONTIER AUTO MUSEUM, GILLETTE

Get lost in this charming locale’s antique shop, old-timey general store and car museum, which features an array of shiny classic cars, vintage gas pumps, neon signs and other transportation memorabilia.

5. CHRIS LEDOUX PARK, KAYCEE

The legacy of the legendary hall-of-fame rodeo cowboy and country musician Chris LeDoux is immortalized in a sculpture titled Good Ride Cowboy at Chris LeDoux Park in Kaycee, where he lived on a ranch with his family.

6. WYO THEATER, SHERIDAN

Established in 1923, the WYO was one of the first vaudeville theaters in Wyoming and is now the oldest still in operation—bringing professional music, dance and theater to historic downtown Sheridan.

7. WASHAKIE MUSEUM & CULTURAL CENTER, WORLAND

Exhibits on paleontology, archaeology and early settlements portray the relationship between the historic inhabitants of the Bighorn Basin and their environment.

8. MEETEETSE CHOCOLATIER, MEETEETSE

Tim Kellogg, a saddle bronc rider and cowboy turned chocolatier, makes all of the artisan confections at Meeteetse Chocolatier from scratch daily. Choose from exquisite truffle flavors like prickly pear cactus and Wyoming Whiskey.

9. BUFFALO BILL CENTER OF THE WEST, CODY 

Immerse yourself in the natural and cultural history and art of the region at five different institutions in one complex: the Plains Indian, Buffalo Bill, Draper Natural History, Whitney Western Art and Cody Firearms museums.

ENDING POINT: Yellowstone National Park east entrance 

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Road trips courtesy of Wyoming Tourism and Miles Partnership. Find more along these routes and visit TravelWyoming.com for more stops and planning info. For more Adventures & Travel, click here.