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Mary Brown Malouf

Mary Brown Malouf is the late Executive Editor of Salt Lake magazine and Utah's expert on local food and dining. She still does not, however, know how to make a decent cup of coffee.

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Understanding COVID Fatigue

By Lifestyle

We’ve all felt it. Early morning malaise, a sense of being trapped, a kind of miasmic hopelessness that permeates our days, a vague unease around other people and an inclination towards agoraphobia, fear of leaving your house. “I don’t know what to do with myself,” several friends have told me. “I’m so tired of wearing a mask.”

It’s COVID fatigue. And it’s not all in your head. Well, it is, but you’re not imagining it.

One of the consequences of the Coronavirus pandemic is an explosion in reported mental health issues—anxiety, depression and suicidal impulses. According to an August story in USA Today, women, young adults and children are suffering the most, but experts fear that across the population the coronavirus pandemic will be followed by a mental health pandemic—one that we’re equally unprepared for. Back in May, the World Health Organization called out “the need to urgently increase investment in services for mental health or risk a massive increase in mental health conditions in the coming months.”

The coming months are here. Just look at some numbers.

The Centers for Disease Control conducted a survey of 5,412 people between June 24 and 30 and the collected data on suicides is alarming. Roughly 25 percent of young adults between the ages of 18 and 24 say they’ve considered suicide because of the pandemic. About 30.9 percent of the respondents said that they “had symptoms of anxiety or depression” and about 26.3 percent reported trauma and stress-related disorders caused by the stress of the Coronavirus. Over 13 percent said that they have used alcohol, prescription and/or illegal drugs to deal with their pandemic-induced stress and anxiety.

“I just want to give up and I don’t know what to do.”

To make that more locally specific, Dr. Kristin Francis of the University of Utah Neuropsychiatric Institute says, “Since March, University Neuropsychiatric Institute (UNI) has observed a significant increase in calls to our CrisisLine and WarmLine. Call volume increased by almost 25 percent in May. Mental health providers are noting increases in the self-reporting of stress, anxiety, depression, fear, and suicidal thoughts, even among people who do not have a prior psychiatric history. Individuals are talking about their fear of the unknown because of the pandemic, relationship strain, physical isolation as a family, transitioning to working from home, economic uncertainty and social justice, all while expressing fatigue and, for some, a sense of hopelessness.”

“Everywhere I look, there’s nothing but bad news.”

Add to the Coronavirus itself the anxiety about climate change—heat waves, forest fires and hurricanes—political upheaval and family turmoil resulting from changed school schedules, workplaces and scrambled routines and we’ve got a bubbling mudpot of stress and confusion.

Plus, we live in Utah where mental health services are notably lacking.

A Salt Lake Tribune article quoted a report released in August by the Kem C. Gardner Policy Institute in partnership with the Utah Hospital Association, “Fewer than half the adults with a mental illness in Utah are getting treatment or counseling, and suicide is the leading cause of death for the state’s youth. Last year, Utah ranked 51 in a national mental health ranking because of its high rates of mental illness and suicidal thinking and significant unmet needs.”

2020 was the first gubernatorial election where candidates included mental health as part of their platform. Concerns and reactions to COVID-19—social distancing, quarantines, school closures, work-at-home programs, mask-wearing—started last March but the public’s emotional reaction has seemed to crescendo, peaking now. This is normal, according to Dr. Francis. “Looking back at the financial crisis in 2007-8 and studying trends, we found a “lag effect”—months after it started, there was an increase in reported anxiety and depression and suicide rates went up four percent.” At first, everyone is ok. There’s a lag between trauma and its manifestation.

“I just don’t see a reason to get up in the morning.” 

We’ve reached a COVID breaking point now. With a significant absence of resources to address it.

Why the care shortage? Experts cite everything from the high cost of treatment to a cultural bias against seeking help for mental health. “Often,” one local psychologist said, “We are told depression is a matter of will power and fortitude. Or we are advised to pray about it.”

The fact is, mental health is brain health—complex chemical interactions in your brain can cause depression and despair.

“I just want to hug someone. But I can’t.”

For example, you’re not just missing the human touch in a sentimental way: You need it like you need sunshine and fresh air. It’s part of our good health. According to Dr. Francis, one survey reported, “Thirty-five percent of respondents said it had been four months or longer since they hugged someone outside their family. Humans are meant to be in physical contact with one another—we have a physiologic endocrine reaction, the release of endorphin when we’re touched.”

People still don’t think of the brain as an organ, part of the body. “When your brain is sick or ill, you have pain and dysfunction, you have body consequences,” says Francis.

You literally feel it.

“We see it when there are disruptions in speech, behavior or verbal symptoms. But when it’s depression or anxiety, we think it’s a personality issue, not a manifestation of a brain illness.”

But there is even a barrier between admitting you need help and getting it—ironically, especially during this pandemic, because people don’t like to leave their houses. And in rural areas, a shortage of rural mental health care providers exacerbates the problem. Telehealth is one potential solution that has gained traction during the pandemic, said Nanci Klein, professional affairs director for the Utah Psychological Association. And Tele counseling is easier for some to deal with than face-to-face therapy.

Some of today’s mental health problems can be self-alleviated by frequent exercise, healthy eating, sufficient sleep or abstention from alcohol and drugs—your brain is your body, remember—but most therapies need an expert’s help. 

The Kids Aren’t Alright: School closures have exacerbated student mental health issues and rendered help harder to reach.

“We’ve switched the vocabulary to refer to it as ‘crisis teaching’ rather than ‘remote teaching.’ That’s a much more accurate descriptor of what we’re confronting,” says Betsy Weidner, a 9th grade English teacher at Waterford School in Sandy. “Isolation experienced by our students is the number one concern. It’s what keeps me up at night.” Waterford, a private school, began the school year with a hybrid teaching model consisting of both remote and in-person learning. It was just one of several discordant ways Utah schools attempted to educate and engage students as schools reopened during the pandemic. Others opened for in-person instruction, while others, including Salt Lake public schools, were entirely remote. Regardless of the model, students, teachers and administrators encountered unprecedented circumstances upon their return extending far beyond the mechanics of instruction. Addressing student mental health needs has historically been an underappreciated aspect of teaching, and it’s become simultaneously more imperative and difficult to do in the age of COVID. “The reality is teachers are boots on the ground and often the first people to identify students who need help,” says Weidner. “There’s an organic network between teachers who know the same students, but we’ve lost that connection now that we’re isolated from one another. I worry we’re going to miss something.” The combination of wearing masks—which are essential to mitigate the spread of coronavirus—distance learning, limiting classroom capacity and curbing extracurricular activities are reinforcing the mental health stressors induced by student isolation. Abandoning those policies would have a disastrous public health impact, so educators are scrambling to make do. “Kids are unbelievably resilient, and they’re conditioned to tell you everything’s fine,” Weidner says. But many haven’t developed healthy coping mechanisms to help them process what has become profound societal trauma. “A lot of students have their own version of therapy through interpersonal connections and passions, whether that’s athletics, art or just connecting with their friends. If you replace that with chronic isolation, you start to see some students drifting to dark places.” Providing access to mental health resources during the pandemic is an urgent concern, especially locally in Utah which, according to the CDC’s latest data, has the seventh-highest teen suicide rate in the United States. Waterford is better positioned than many schools thanks to having multiple counselors on staff, substantial dean involvement and consistently high parent engagement, but it still at times doesn’t feel adequate in a suddenly extremely online world. “The negative echo chambers you can encounter when so much of your life is online can be dangerous. How do you cultivate a healthy, authentic community online when so much of your experience has been grounded in anonymity?” Weidner asks. Perhaps if we’d focused energy and resources towards creating an environment safe enough to open schools instead of squabbling over opening bars and restaurants to alleviate collective boredom, we wouldn’t be scrambling for an answer. —Tony Gill

So who you gonna call? Your first resource might be acknowledging that depression and anxiety are real illnesses. So see your regular physician. Your primary care doctor can prescribe lifestyle changes and some basic medications. Make an appointment with a psychologist, a therapist who has a Masters’s in counseling or social work. You can see a psychologist either in person or, very easily, online. Tele-counseling has seen a big surge during Covid and is likely to be the norm in the future. Patients are often more comfortable talking via Zoom from the comfort of their own home. Psychologists can’t prescribe or do psychological testing, but they can help guide you to someone who can. Talk-therapy plus medication is often the most effective treatment. If you (or your psychologist/therapist) think you need medication, see a psychiatrist. Psychiatrists are full medical doctors who specialize in brain health. They can prescribe appropriate medication. These drugs do not alter you, they restore you to your full self, much like insulin restores your body’s blood sugar balance. Our neural system communicates via chemicals which may need to be adjusted. Guided meditation and mindfulness, like therapy, can help in changing your perspective. Working with a recommended life-coach can help you prioritize and organize what kind of help to seek.

Tech Resources Can Help SafeUT is an app facilitating a real-time crisis chat and tip line run by the University of Utah. The free, confidential app connects you with licensed clinicians 24/7 who can assist with supportive or crisis counseling, suicide prevention and referral services. SafeUT has been embraced by many schools throughout the state and is a vital tool for teens, young adults and anyone who connects with them. SafeUT is available for download on your smartphone in the apple app store or on Google Play. https://healthcare.utah.edu/uni/safe-ut/

Coaches aren’t just for Athletes Another resource for those seeking help is by gaining the assistance of a life coach. More practical than traditional counseling and less clinical than psychiatrists, life coaches can aid in breaking old negative patterns, provide structure and a game plan to bring about desired changes. Issues can include anything from weight loss and healthy living to helping an adult-aged child become more independent. According to a local life coach at Clarity Coaching Institute, Kathryn Dixon, “In my 17 years of practice, this year I’ve noticed that folks are being more honest about their pain and struggles. With the added stress, people are ready to make changes. The status quo no longer suffices—people are looking for more authenticity and deeper meaning in their lives—and they are moving forward faster than ever before. I find it thrilling.”—by Jen Hill Kathryn Dixon, Life Coach, Clarity Coaching Institute ClarityCoachingInstitute.com 801-953-3942

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Ginger: From Mighty Root to Powder

By Eat & Drink

Ginger is the culinary equivalent of enthusiasm. Whether you’re using it in a savory or a sweet dish, its spicy aroma that seems to go straight from the nose to the brain, is a wake-up call: Hey! Things are about to get interesting! Put the ginger flower in a vase; in the kitchen we use the rhizome of the plant which is from a family—kind of amusingly—called Zingiberaceae. (Emphasis on zing!) Ginger has been used for more than 3,000 years as a spice and a medicine.

Of course it always gets the spotlight come the holidays—gingerbread architecture is an increasingly refined and complex art—just take a look at the building featured on the cover of Salt Lake magazine in 2018. Here, along with Thai, Indian and Vietnamese cuisines, ginger is getting more and more popular as a main-course spice.

Available in many forms, ginger is a go-to for fabulous flavor. Here are just some of the ways it’s used:

Root:

ginger

Ginger is not a root, it is actually a rhizome. Buy a fresh piece of it in the produce department and store it in the freezer. When you crave the taste of fresh ginger, grate off as much as you need with a hard-cheese grater.

Crystallized:

ginger Diced ginger root is cooked in sugar syrup until the sugar crystallizes. Use it in baking or dip it in melted dark chocolate for an after-dinner palate refresher.

Powdered:

ginger

The rhizome is dried and ground. Find this in the spice department and use it in all kinds of baked goods. (Tip: A tiny pinch added to yeast doughs at the beginning will speed up their rise.)

Pickled:

ginger

This is traditionally used as a palate refresher during a sushi dinner, but it’s also wonderful slivered into green salads or chicken salad.


Read more food stories here.

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Current Fish and Oyster: A High Tide

By Eat & Drink

Everyone knows restaurants ebb and flow—they open to huge acclaim or disappointment, are re-assessed as classic or cutting- edge, decline or ascend with the comings and goings of executive chefs. Sometimes you just stop going to a place when they seem to be mired in a low spot. I loved Current when it opened, fresh and beautiful and inventive, and then it seemed to lose its way. For awhile, there were only a few fish dishes on the menu of the supposed seafood restaurant.

So I’m glad we dropped in again during the last days of dining out, outside, that is. The flower boxes separating sidewalk from seating were overflowing, tables were comfortably distanced and luckily our server was Bobbi Koppel, one of the best and most professional in our city.

A trio of oysters seemed in order to tide us (I know) over until we’d read the menu thoroughly and with it Koppel recommended a glass of sherry—a combination I never would have thought of. Current features a list of sherries on its appetizer menu and that’s something new. The centuries- old aperitif seems to be making a comeback and sure enough, the warm, nutty barely bitter sweetness of the Amontillado was beautifully resonant with the sharp brine of the slippery oyster meat.

CurrentThe menu is loaded with tempting fishies, but the halibut sounded like the perfect end of summer meal—grilled and surrounded by a rosy tomato pernod veloute (a sauce-specific word I was happy to see used on a menu) with caramelized fennel to echo the pernod and dabs of saffron cream to butter up the palate. Roasted fingerlings lent some starch support. My friend had the seafood stew—an abundance of scallops, shrimp, mussels and that halibut again in a coconut lemongrass broth with serrano pistou for bite and Thai basil-peanuts for some crunch. We had a glass of a new (to me) wine, Hungarian Kiralyudvar sec. I’ve only ever had the classic sweet tokay, but this dry and fragrant drink was a great food wine. I’ll be Googling it.

I have my eye on the swordfish and the pan-roasted scallops with crispy rice in a carrot-ginger nage—Chef Alan Brines (no, really) knows his way around seafood and I am eager to go back. Even when weather closes the pleasant patio, there will be room to stay safely distant up on the restaurant mezzanine.

ADDRESS: 279 300 South, SLC
WEB: currentfishandoyster.com
PHONE: 801-326-3474


For more food and drink, click here.

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Nomad Eatery: Fun Food

By Eat & Drink

True to its name, Nomad Eatery, the casually wonderful restaurant that used to be out west, or is it north, meaning near the airport, has moved. The new place is called Nomad Eatery East and it’s taken over the old Eggs in the City space as if it had always been there.

nomad eateryThough abiding by all the mask and social distancing rules when we ate there, Nomad East had that bright and breezy carefree attitude we’re all longing for in these highly restrictive times. See? You can have fun in the middle of a pandemic. It just takes a little leaning in. The patio outside was the happening place; we all feel safer in the open air these days so that helped contribute to the ease. But can I say the atmosphere was upbeat because of the cheerful attitude of the servers, the chef, Justin Soelberg, and of the food?

Yes, I am saying food can have attitude.

Soelberg’s menu here is much like the one out west (which he hopes to reopen, I think. You know, when things get “back to normal.”)

nomad eateryThere is a roster of pizzas— topped with whatever you want. (Choices include Mesa Farms feta.) Ours was a special, spread with the last of the golden tomatoes, giving that gentle sunshine sweetness of those fruits—a roast chicken, all moist meat and crispy skin set off by a charred lemon; a charcuterie platter with unusual stuff like pickled celery and a pile of pickled raisins which I suggest Soelberg jar up and sell. (They also top the Betty White pizza.) Potato chips were housemade, the epitome of potato chip, and the elotes was served on the cob, slathered with cotija, crema, chile powder and toasted pepitas, the messiest thing you could possibly eat but so good and in this happy place, who cares? Salads we tried had the same energy as the hot stuff. A wedge salad was topped with house-smoked cheese, green onion, seeds and slathered with buttermilk ranch dressing. All the cooking—corn, chicken, pizza, pears—is done in two large pizza ovens, even the roasted peaches we had for dessert. Of course, there’s wine and beer and non-alcoholic beverages.


For more food and drink, click here.

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Holiday Food Gifts: No-Brainer Shopping

By Eat & Drink

This is the year to go online and order your holiday gifts from local businesses. Avoid perils of shopping crowds who may or may not be masked, may or may not observe social distancing and—support local businesses. who need your love. Here’s a list of some local holiday food gifts:

HELL’S BACKBONE GRILL: The HBG Brunch Box contains everything you need to serve a delicious, original and wholesome meal—all that’s missing is the view at this beloved restaurant. Your choice of tea, some just-baked granola, cinnagraham pancake mix, dreamy oats, breakfast beans, jenchilada sauce and black powder biscuit mix, plus jams and there is enough of everything for several brunches. An extravagant expression of love. Other items available. hellsbackbonegrill.com/shop

FLOURISH BAKERY: The best hostess and neighbor and anyone else gift: Flourish’s Chipotle & Candied Bacon Caramel Corn. Flourish transforms people’s lives by offering people in recovery a meaningful occupation and opportunity to learn life and living skills. A gift from Flourish is also a gift to your community. Flourishslc.org

BARTENDER’S BOX: Have a celebratory drink with your friends, virtually. Top Shelf Services, the leading cocktail caterers in Park City, have come up with a unique and interactive mixology experience. Alcohol is not included but everything else to make eight fresh cocktails is: bottles of fresh juices, spices, garnishes, instructions and recipes. Choose from a list of five favorite cocktails and have the box delivered to your or a friend’s door. thebartendersbox.com/

CHOCOLOT ARTISAN CONFECTIONS: The gift that makes everyone feel better: chocolate. Chocolot makes a tongueboggling array of filled chocolates—Key lime, chai, espresso lavender, gianduja—as well as conventional flavors, toffees and nibs. Company or corporate giving? Order chocolates with your company’s logo on your candy or your own message for a special occasion. chocolot.com

LIBERTY HEIGHTS FRESH: Give a taste of Utah to faraway friends and relatives. The Locavore basket from Liberty Heights Fresh holds Amano chocolates, middle Eastern spreads from Laziz, cheese from Rockhill Creamery, Pop Art Gourmet Popcorn and so much more. Comes in several sizes and you can customize. libertyheightsfresh.com

LES MADELEINES: The best pastry in Utah is available for you to order online and send by mail. Romina Rasmussen’s buttery, crispy, melt-in-yourmouth kouign aman can be shipped and arrives fresh and delectable. Could there be a better holiday morning? lesmadeleines.co

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Feed Your Head at Nohm

By Eat & Drink

The Salt Lake dining scene is dimming, it’s true. And the future looks dusky, too. But there is one blindingly bright spot that, unfortunately for it, opened at the beginning of the pandemic. Nohm outshines nine out of ten Japanese restaurants in town but so few of us have been dining out that it’s still somewhat a secret.

Right next door to Water Witch, in the old Meditrina space on Harvey Milk Blvd., (formerly known as 900 South), Nohm is quietly designed, the main alteration from its predecessor being an open kitchen and sushi bar.

It’s hard to describe ambiance in the time of Covid—every place is quieter than it used to be and, frankly, that’s nice. Nohm is subtle, modern and serene. In a recent essay about how Covid is changing the restaurant business, Stuart Melling remarked he didn’t miss going out to eat as long as he could get restaurant-quality food; I don’t share his feelings. I like to enter a new place and I like to eat in a space designed to complement cuisine. I know this may not be true for boomer-bashing young people who think the ambiance of their mother’s basement is fine as long as the screen is lit. And I certainly appreciate the option of dining on my own table. But Covid has made eating out the special occasion it once was and when you’re eating food as fine as Nohm’s, a respectful atmosphere is warranted.

I went to Nohm with regulars and was guided through the menu with their help and the enthusiasm of David, the owner of the restaurant. I haven’t eaten Japanese food this good since the days of Naked Fish: Every dish beautifully presented with flavor combinations from rigorously traditional to delicately fused. A gorgeous plate of perfectly cut sashimi was a panoply of pink hues from salmon to tuna accented with cut nori, a slash of lemon and the pistachio-green of wasabi. But Nohm’s menu goes far beyond sashimi to include charcoal-grilled meats and noodles. Like all things Japanese, both these can be inifinitely complicated with a different vocabulary and technique for each type of grill and noodle. I am not an expert. For me, the genius dish was Nohm’s take on carbonara, with rice noodles, uni and mackerel and grated roe lending the fragrance and umami of aged cheese—a cross-cultural marvel. Choose from the sake menu or have a glass of wine.

Nohm is a treasure, one I hope will be discovered in time for it to flourish. Right now, most restaurants are playing it safe (who doesn’t serve a burger or flatbread??) We don’t have restaurants inspiring us to explore or be adventurous—that’s not what people tend to crave in times of crisis.

Fight the tendency to play it safe and go eat at Nohm. It will help keep your brain and tastebuds from the atrophy and apathy induced by social-distancing.

As Alice said, Feed your head.

165 W. 900 South. SLC, nohmslc.com, 801-917-3812

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Easy (mostly) tricks to make your home bar a star

By Eat & Drink

Garnish. Appearance is the drinker’s first impression, so garnishes are imperative. Edible leaves, flowers, whole spices.

Mist. Aroma comes next. As a drinker lifts the glass to sip, she catches a whiff of fragrance. This could be the cocktail itself, but to add complexity and fun, “spritz” your cocktail with a complementary aroma. Put a liquor with a distinctive aroma—mezcal, Scotch, Chartreuse, Aperol—into an atomizer and spray a mist over the cocktail right before it’s served.

Rinse. Layer flavors. Good chefs know that layered flavors are the key to fine cooking. Same with cocktails. Rinse the top of your serving glass to coat it with an subtle aroma. Just pour a small amount of liquor into the glass, swirl it around and discard it, i.e. drink it. Then pour in your cocktail mixture. Absinthe is often used but any other highly aromatic liquor or liqueur could be used.

Float. Carefully pouring a thin layer of an unmixed liquor or liqueur on top of your mixed drink also adds an extra layer of flavor. Be sure to check the relative viscosity of your liquors or your float will sink.

Seat. Doing the same thing as a float, only in reverse—using a small amount of highly flavored liquor or liqueur in the bottom of the glass. Pour the cocktail in carefully, down the side of the glass.

Rim. Margaritas are the standard for this, but you can use so many other things besides salt to rim a glass and contrast with your cocktail. Dip the rim of the cocktail glass into liquor or fruit juice, then dip into kosher salt, smoked salt, mushroom salt, sugar, flavored sugars, Tajin…possibilities abound.

Syrups. Of course, simple syrup is a staple. But bartenders now are using flavored syrups. Straight extracts can be too strong but when used to flavor a syrup, extracts can add excitement and surprise. Ube (a kind of yam) has been a big hit on the coasts, adding a pumpkin-pie aroma and pretty purple. Cinnamon, ginger, vanilla, coconut, coffee and passionfruit are all easy and popular.

Layering. Epitomized by the pousse-cafe—complicated, outdated and tons of fun, this trick cocktail involves layering different densities of liqueur for a striped effect. Invented in 1862, popular again in the tasteless late 70s and ‘80s, we assume this was inspired by a very bored bartender.

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Cocktail Contest Winners 2020 Announced

By Eat & Drink
Yes, we have winners for the 2020 Cocktail Contest! Salt Lake City has bellied up to the bars, masked, safely distanced, disinfected and with palates fully engaged, to sip, think and determine the winner of this year’s Salt Lake magazine cocktail contest. This year, we asked competing bartenders to get as creative as possible with their libations and the results were hot, cold, spicy, fruity, infused, shrubbed and pearled. We hope you had a chance to taste and vote—because now the contest is over. The people have spoken, the judges have cogitated.

And The Winners of the 2020 Salt Lake Magazine Cocktail Contest Are (drumroll please!):

People’s Choice: Takashi P.O.P. 

RED DIRT GARDEN
1.5 oz. Amaro Bilaro
.5 oz. Sugar House Distillery Barrel-strength Rye
.75 oz. lemon juice
1 oz. red rice orgeat made with Red Butte Garden botanicals Pinch of Jacobsen Salt
from Caputo’s

Judges Choice: Water Witch 

BOROS CHARM
1.5 oz. Sugar House Distillery Bourbon Whiskey
2.5 oz. clarified acid-adjusted orange and ginger juice
.5 oz. Riff Pinot Grigio wine syrup aromatized with Vietnamese black tea, vanilla, coriander, orange peels CO2
Mix the drink and pour over the biggest ice cubes that will fit the glass. Carbonate the drink and garnish with a dehydrated orange wheel, pickled ginger slices and Verjus rouge, ginger and orange caviar (made with agar.)

Dark Horse Winner: Lake Effect 

ELLIE SATTLER
(Don’t remember who this is? Google it.)
1.5 oz. Holystone Distillery Tsunami Shochu
.5 oz. Sugar House Silver Rum
.5 oz. Toadstool Boxed Death Amaro #3 4 dashes Cry Baby Fruit Punch bitters .75 oz. lemon juice
.5 oz. beet simple syrup (equal parts beet juice to simple syrup)
.25 oz. cinnamon simple syrup
4-5 fresh sage leaves
sage bouquet (garnish)


The maker of each Winning Drink will be awarded $500 and the Dark Horse drink will also receive a cash prize. Congratulations to all. And thanks to Sugar House Distillery and Libation Inc. for helping to make the contest possible. We wish all of you the best and jolliest! For more food and drink, click here.
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Sherry isn’t making a comeback

By Eat & Drink

Sherry once ruled the table. Now it’s the Nowhere Man of the wine world. On a recent dinner at Current (see p. 100) my server Bobbi Koppel suggested I try a glass of sherry with my appetizer kumamotos. So I did and was surprised at the affinity. Current has a whole list of sherries prominently boxed off on its menu page. Over at BTG, where Bobbi’s husband Louis rules the roost, sherries (along with other latter-day wine oddballs like Madeira and port) have always been part of the very extensive list. I dropped in and tasted a flight of three, ranging in color from pale gold to deep caramel.  Is sherry, the fortified wine formerly the favorite of “maiden aunts” (do those really exist outside tame British mystery stories?) making a comeback?  I would say not. A glance at the sales numbers shows that sherry ranks about where Utah does in education spending.

But it should.

I’m not talking about sweet sherry, which is a whole ‘nother thing. It’s the dry ones that are more food friendly and there are several categories: fino, oloroso, amontillado (“For the love of god, Montresor!”) manzanillo, Palo Cortado. Sherry, like all wine, is a complicated subject, suitable for total nerd immersion. The name is an Anglicized version of the town where it’s made, Jerez, in Andalusia, Spain and the making of it involves fortification with brandy, a specific kind of yeast called flor and an aging system involving mixing different vintages in different casks in a specific order, called the solera system.

Never mind. You don’t need to know any of this until you’ve tried the sherry. Taste different types and ages and with different foods. Oysters were perfect but all the traditional Spanish tapas were meant to be eaten with sherry, which brings me to my favorite point: Sherry is a sipper, meant to be lingered over and savored. It’s perfect for a socially distant evening.

See all of our food coverage here.

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Air-Fryer, Today’s Hottest Kitchen Toy

By Eat & Drink

Americans love their gadgets. I remember when the Robot-Coupe, aka Cuisinart, was a hot young thing a generation ago. Since then it’s been the bread machine, the pasta machine, the immersion blender, the Crockpot, the pressure-cooker, the Insta-pot. And now it’s the air-fryer. Its appeal is grounded in the American love/hate relationship with fat (we love fried food, but we know we’re not supposed to eat it) and our simultaneous obsession with clean kitchens (to fry is to splatter.) This gadget produces the crunchy effect of fried food with a minimum of oil. Everyone except Colonel Sanders loves it.

It’s actually not a fryer at all, technically—it’s a high-powered convection oven that circulates super-hot air all around the food you’re cooking.

The thing can also toast, bake and clean your kitchen. Just kidding about the cleaning. We ended up just playing with ours, adjusting online recipes to what we had in the pantry. We started with chicken fingers, figured we wanted them spicy so quadrupled the black pepper and though the recipe suggested lemon wedges, we loved them dipped into Salsa Queen’s Creamy Jalapeño dip. On to green vegetables, in our case beans (red pepper flakes a must) and Brussels sprouts and finally, we slid to the bottom of the menu food chain and got a little crazy so I’m just telling you: Totinos Pizza Rolls are fantastic cooked in an air fryer. That led us to wonder about all kinds of things: Onion rings? Reheated pizza? Oreos?

Next time.


CHICKEN FINGERS:

Healthier than deep fat, with none of the mess.

  • 1 1⁄2 lbs. chicken tenders
  • 2 large eggs, beaten
  • 1 tsp. water
  • 1 tsp. salt
  • 1 tsp. black pepper
  • 1 cup flour
  • 1⁄2 cup seasoned breadcrumbs
  • 1 cup Panko or fine breadcrumbs
  • Olive oil (or other oil) spray
  • Lemon wedges, for serving

Heat the air fryer to 400.

Spray the rack with olive oil and line the tray underneath with aluminum foil.

Rinse the tenders and pat dry. Mix the breadcrumbs with salt and pepper. Beat the eggs with water.

Coat the chicken in the flour, then dip in the egg mixture, then cover with crumbs. Spray with olive oil or place the chicken pieces on the rack, evenly spaced and cook for 5-6 minutes. Turn pieces over and cook another 5-6 minutes, until golden.

GREEN BEANS: Not so much fried, as blistered. And delicious.

Preheat fryer to 400 and prepare rack and tray as above.

  • About 1 lb. green beans, stems removed
  • 1 Tbsp. oil
  • 1 clove garlic, mashed
  • 1⁄2 tsp. red pepper flakes

Mix the oil and garlic. Toss the beans in the oil until thoroughly coated. Place them on the rack and cook 6 minutes; shake the rack and cook 5-6 more minutes.

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