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Mary Brown Malouf

Mary Brown Malouf is the late Executive Editor of Salt Lake magazine and Utah's expert on local food and dining. She still does not, however, know how to make a decent cup of coffee.

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Artist Ben Steele Challenges Utah Taboos

By Arts & Culture

At first look, “The Tabooist” seems like an easy chuckle. The everyone-gets-it reference to Norman Rockwell, famous for his realistic vignettes of iconic American experiences is translated into today’s parlance: a tattoo artist inking the names of a girlfriend on a bearded man’s bicep.

That is pun enough. But when you look closer, you recognize the tattooist as Rockwell himself from behind, as painted in his famous “Triple Self-portrait,” and the bearded man as Brigham Young, head of the Church of Latter-day Saints. The tattoo is not a single name but a list of Young’s wives, a legacy of the now-taboo doctrine of polygamy. Another tattoo portraying LDS church founder Joesph Smith is on Young’s lower arm.

So it’s not just an easy laugh. The painting is a commentary on hypocrisy and the evolution of morals—what was once accepted is now unacceptable—but it’s hard to get rid of unacceptable, immoral customs.

Artist at work

Steele was born in Washington and moved to St. George, Utah, when he was in high school. He attended Dixie when it was still a two year college and his interests vacillated between golf and art.

“I thought I wanted to be a golf pro. My Dad has an art degree but never worked as an artist. That’s what I thought I wanted to do.”

But he changed his mind and became an art student at University of Utah.

“By signing up for independent study courses, I managed to take seven courses from John Erickson—he became my teacher and mentor. He encouraged me to come to Helper. Paul Davis and Dave Dorrnan moved to Helper and made this coal mining and RR town an art community.”

Ink is permanent. Ways of thinking are sometimes impossible to change. But Steele veers away from making a condemnation of this slightly harsh comment—the painting style, at its most popular during America’s idealistic period, makes the comment almost loving.

“I like conceptual art,” says Steele. “But often, I don’t need to see it. Other pieces are well-painted but not that meaningful. I like to blend those two worlds—concept and vision.” In “The Tabooist,” Steele juxtaposes idealized Americana with historical Americana. Steele seeks out this kind of resonance—doing paintings of Crayons, for example, creating a Mona Lisa coloring page or putting Rembrandt’s self portrait on a Pez container.

The paintings are technically lovely but strikingly modern in their mashup of cultural icons. The result is art you love to look at, but also makes you think. bensteeleart.com; modernwest.com

See all of our arts coverage here.

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It’s National Coffee Day! Go Ahead and Get your Jitters on.

By Eat & Drink

Utah is famous for its LDS-based no-coffee culture. But the truth is Salt Lake City’s coffee cup overfloweth. We celebrate National Coffee Day every day. Corner Bakery is sharing coffee love by giving away free cups of coffee—brewed hand-roasted or cold brew– with any purchase from Sept. 29 through Oct. 1.

Every Salt Lake neighborhood has its favorite specialty coffee shop—here are some of our favorites.

Caffe d’Bolla John Piquet is a coffee wizard—a cup of his specially roasted siphon brews is like no other cup of coffee in the state. This is the opposite of drive-through coffee. His wife, Yiching, is an excellent baker. 249 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-355-1398

La Barba Owned by locally owned coffee roasters—a favorite with many local restaurants—this little cafe off of Finca serves coffee, tea, chocolate, churros and other pastries. 327 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-457-0699.

Unique Utah Gifts

Publik A cool coffeehouse serving the latest in great coffee; an old-school java joint made for long conversations; a neo-cafe where you can park with your laptop and get some solo work done. Publik serves a multitude of coffee-fueled purposes. 975 S. Temple, SLC, 801-355-3161; 638 Park Ave., Park City, 435-200-8693.

Salt Lake Roasting Company At SLC’s original coffee shop—arguably, the cornerstone of SLC’s coffee culture, owner John Bolton buys and roasts the better-than-fair-trade beans. 820 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-748-4887

The Rose Establishment The Rose is ultimately mellow, a place for conversation as much as coffee–especially on Sunday mornings. Coffee is from Four Barrel Coffee Roasters. 235 S. 400 West, SLC, 801-990-6270.

The Coffee Garden On Saturday mornings there will be a line at this longtime favorite in the walkable 9th and 9th neighborhood. But the coffee and the easy vibe make it worth a wait. Some people stay all day, sipping and working on their laptops. 878 E. 900 South, SLC,

Blue Copper 2000 This is the latest in coffee hot spots, both locations are prime people-watching places for small-batch roasted beans and gathering spots. Friends. 179 W. 900 South; 401 N. 300 West, SLC 385-222-7046 

See all of our food and drink coverage here.

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Gram Parsons Died on This Date in 1973

By Arts & Culture, Music

Bring on your grievous angels. On this date in 1973 one of the gods of of music died. So, go down this rabbit hole and read about the place where his loyal friends cremated him.

Gram Parsons invented country rock, introduced rock to the gorgeous suits made by Nudie’s Rodeo Tailors (Porter Wagoner already knew about them) and though most of the love came posthumously, was and is one of the most beloved of rock musicians. He is forever linked to Joshua Tree, California which he loved and where he mysteriously died. The current issue of Salt Lake magazine features an article about Joshua Tree National, recently upgraded to a National Park, with nods to Gram Parsons.

Read all of our music coverage here.

 

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On the Table · Ginger Street

By Eat & Drink

Chef Tyler Stokes made his Provisions restaurant a destination from the time it opened. Everything in the American melting-pot cuisine was in his culinary vision, from fried chicken to carpaccio to udon. But lots of dishes had a Southeast Asian flair—carpaccio came with yuzu koshu aioli and fried chicken was sided with green papaya salad. And one of Provisions kitchen’s greatest hits is the crispy duck spring rolls—duck confit twice-wrapped in a fried and a soft rice paper roll. Yum.

Chef Tyler Stokes

In July, Stokes opened Ginger Street, to take his Southeast Asian ideas further.

“About 12 years ago I took over as executive chef of a high-end Southeast Asian restaurant in Sun Valley called Globus and I loved it,” says Stokes. “We took modern American techniques and applied them to Southeast Asian cuisine. I wanted to bring my version of that cuisine to Salt Lake City.  I love those fresh, spicy vibrant flavors.”

Ginger Street

Steamed Dumplings

Stokes is aiming for authenticity but unlike many hole-in-the-wall or mom-and-pop Thai and Vietnamese cafes, he is trying to source ingredients locally and regionally. “We use as many local and organic greens and vegetables as possible and we go to never-ever programs for beef, chicken and pork,” he says. (Never-ever refers to farms and ranches who raise their animals sustainably, never using growth implants or antibiotics or animal by-products in their feed.) Using quality ingredients is more expensive and customers will see that reflected in prices. Stokes says he’s already getting push-back from diners who question $9 for bao or $10 for lettuce wraps, but he’s hoping that will change as people realize the implications of choosing sustainably raised ingredients.

Green Papaya Salad

An example of the Ginger Street difference: Orange chicken is usually a fried chunk of chicken meat coated with a cornstarch-thickened sticky-sweet sauce so you don’t taste a lot of chicken or orange. Stokes brines all-natural chicken overnight, fries it in a tempura batter made with sparkling water for extra-light crispiness, makes the orange sauce with marmalade and garnishes it with togarashi and scallions. 

Stokes also wanted to serve food in a more casual setting, he says. “I wanted to create food that people could enjoy more casually and spontaneously.”

In the biz, this is called ‘fast-casual’ and it’s a service style that is taking over. Fast food has earned a bad name and it’s common knowledge that young people eschew white tablecloth dining. Fast-casual dining, where you place your own order then have your food brought  by a server, is becoming the norm. It doesn’t always work—at Ginger Street, Stokes found the system caused a traffic jam and confusion in the evenings with multiple food and drink orders, so he’s switched to what he calls “casual full-service” at night. That just means you’re seated and a server waits on you.

The ultimate goal is the Stokes approach to fast-casual Southeast Asian food will catch on to be implemented in the restaurants to follow—yes, more Ginger Streets are being planned. You can tell by looking that this is a template but if there were any doubt, Stokes’ partner in this venture is Michael McHenry—think Costa Vida, Blue Lemon and other fast casual multi-unit restaurants.

“We’re already looking at Draper, Sandy, Boise—maybe Colorado,” says Stokes, soon to be not only a chef but a restaurateur. Keep your eye out for a Ginger Street in your town.

Photos by Adam Finkle

Check what else is on the table. 

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On the Table · Oquirrh

By Eat & Drink

I’ve been muttering about the recent “plateau-ing” of the Salt Lake food scene. With a California chain (Curry Up) replacing locally owned long-time Middle Eastern restaurant Cedars of Lebanon, the clone creep in Sugar House and local group Sicilia Mia taking the place of Paris Bistro and Aristo’s, it seemed like our local options were being bought up, that uniqueness was being replaced by imports and proven formulas.

But, like SLC Eatery, Oquirrh encouraged me on all fronts.

Chef Drew Fuller did stints at Copper Onion, HSL and Pago; where he met his wife, Angelena, who works the front of the house.

I like  the name—where else are you going to find a restaurant called Oquirrh? It’s strictly local and even the locals can’t spell it.

Root Vegetable Terrine

And I loved my food. The imagination behind it, the presentation and the taste. I liked carrots, a riff on the popular perpendicular presentation at Pago. Carrots of several colors were roasted, cured in miso or braised, then planted vertically in a ground of carrot-top pesto with a brown rice chip to add back in some crispness.

Other plates were equally whimsical—it was a nice change to smile as we were served. So many plates look pretentiously serious these days. Food is supposed to be fun.

The chicken confit pot pie arrived with one leg sticking out through the golden-brown crust—it looked like the bird had taken a dive. The pastry covered the filling—a lovely, just-thickened broth with lots of seasonal mushrooms—and lined the ramekin. An entire leg of lamb was crusted with a curry mixture and deep-fried, apparently after being braised, because the meat fell from the bone in tender chunks. The giant thing (Does anyone remember what “Brobdingnagian” means?) was accompanied by housemade naan, vegetables roasted in garam masala and eggplant relish. I can’t see one person finishing this plate, but it made great leftovers. Better than cold pizza!

Curry Fried Lamb Shank

Maybe it was just us, but the meal was becoming fatter and fatter and our choice of pasta, thick tubes mixed with chunks of butter-poached lobster and plenty of Pecorino didn’t change the trend. The flavor of the celery leaves did what it always does to lighten the mouthfeel and add sprightliness. Milk-braised potatoes were the meal’s Cinderella; few things could sound so humble and taste so spectacular. The milk cooks into beautiful curds These dreamy potatoes are quintessential comfort food, sweet and tender with the umami from the cooked milk lending the richness of cheese.

Oquirrh’s space is almost too small and when it’s full (as it often is, because of all the lauding) it’s loud. Those who think conversation is an essential part of a good meal complain about it but evidently it’s better to be chic than heard.

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On the Table · One-0-Eight

By Eat & Drink

Once upon a time, being basic wasn’t bad. But language changes. Words that were once commonly used fall into disfavor. Or change their meaning. Now, basic isn’t bad exactly. But the Urban Dictionary defines its current meaning as “devoid of defining characteristics that might make a person interesting, extraordinary, or just simply worth devoting time or attention to.” The word describes a lot of Utah food.

I recently went to New York City and Los Angeles with a group of Utah chefs and bartenders who are living proof that not all Utah fare is basic. They cooked for food writers and publicists who are looking for anything but the basic and this group impressed them. But the baseline here is still basic.

Chef James Dumas and Kris Dumas

The place formerly known as Sea Salt is now One-O-Eight. The space is as cool as ever—colorless but full of light from two walls of windows looking out and on one side opening onto a flagged patio, the interior holds a mix of booths and tables, hi-tops and barstools. This is definitely one of the best patios in town—a wonderful place to linger, sip, nibble and watch the fortunate neighborhood denizens walk their dogs or stroll to Emigration Market with their kids. It’s all enough to make you believe America is the peaceful place you grew up believing in.

IF YOU GO
Address: 1709 E. 1300 South, SLC
Phone: 801-906-8101

And some of the food here demands a visit: the Frog Bench salad, a simple toss of greens from the urban farm a few miles away. Surely these greens were picked only hours before being tossed in a light vinaigrette—you could taste the individual flavor of each leaf. Rarely does a salad leave this strong a taste memory. But the Baby Wedge did, too: the heart of a head of infant Iceberg lettuce, scattered with crispy pancetta and crumbles of blue cheese, garnished with a few olives and a ripe tomato half slipping from its skin. The pizza’s crisp bubbled crust wasn’t over-weighed with toppings.

But other dishes were bland—chicken schnitzel, a a stiffly breaded pounded breast, needed more than a drizzle to offset the dry fry. Cacio y pepe had no taste of pepper. I was confused by the gnocchi, firm and tender, bathed in sage-scented ghee, but surrounded by marinara unmentioned on the menu.

I’ll go back—the place is so pleasant But I wish Chef Dumas had brought a little more panache to his own place—I miss the fearless flavors he put on the plate at High West. Given his talent, One-O-Eight could be a bit less basic.

See all of our food and drink coverage here.

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Tacos, Utah-style

By Eat & Drink

Cultural appropriation. It’s a concept I have mixed feelings about and I’ll probably get flack for even mentioning it. I understand the rules, sort of: It’s not okay for a dominant culture to adopt elements from another, mainly from a minority or disadvantaged culture. Except when it is.

It’s not okay for Katie Perry to wear a kimono and geisha-style hairdo, but it is okay for chefs to put cream cheese in sushi rolls. It’s not okay for Burning Man girls to wear bindis, but it is okay for Indian restaurants to serve beef curry.

So you’re getting the picture. Food seems to be exempt from the notion of cultural appropriation. Good thing, because American cuisine is nothing but dishes and ideas borrowed from other cultures.

These are the thoughts that ran through my head when I ate at Barrio, a newish taco place. Clean, simple lines, order at the counter from the posted menu, take a number, choose your table and they’ll deliver your order on a tray.

Can I express just a little fatigue at this format? With the exception of a drive-through window, this is as impersonal as food service gets. It pretty much erases the hospitality aspect of dining out—the welcome, the face-to-face encounter with a server or host, the short-term relationship that in the past has defined the best restaurant service. But I’m probably in a minority. Most diners prefer speed to grace and confine their conversations to their phone or friends. Talking to strangers, even ones waiting on you, is a waste of breath.

The tacos are good—the menu doesn’t take any chances and you know the choices: beef, chicken, pork or vegetarian. But looking past the names, you see care taken with these tacos. The beef in the arachera tacos may be the skirt steak implied by the name, but it’s sustainably raised wagyu from Snake River Farms. The pollo asado, marinated and grilled chicken, is thigh meat, more flavorful and moist than the white meat usually preferred by Americans; the other chicken option is with mole negro.

Cochinita Pibil brings a Yucatan twist—the meat seasoned with sour orange, achiote, cinnamon, a touch of clove and cooked in banana leaves. Calabacitas—zucchini squash, corn and onion, and garlic shrimp round out the taco menu. We did try the street corn; it had lots of cotija and lime aioli, but the kernels weren’t roasted. The food was fresh and clean, not a drop of grease, but lacking in spice and seasoning.  Still, sometimes, you just need a taco, whatever your culture. This culture is Utah; Barrio is closed on Sundays.

See all of our food and drink coverage here.

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The Last Day at Tin Angel

By Eat & Drink

If I wrote this on actual paper, you’d see runny ink and tear stains. I’m sad because another iconic place in Salt Lake City is disappearing: Tomorrow night, Aug. 31, 2019 is the last night of service at the original Tin Angel.

Jerry and Kestrel Liedtke with then-partner Robin Kilpatrick opened their funky little restaurant on the southwest side of Pioneer Park not long after I started writing for this magazine. It’s remained a favorite, won many awards including a slew of our own Salt Lake Magazine Dining Awards and has consistently been one of the best restaurants in the city.

Summer Saturdays would see Jerry roaming the Downtown Farmers Market across the street, choosing food for that very night’s menu. The Angel’s kitchen ethos was fiercely local. Tables were set with second hand china and dining room walls were hung with ever-changing local art.  You could say some of those things about lots of restaurants. (Well, not the china.)

With the loss of the original Tin Angel, Salt Lake City is losing another little piece of its remaining soul.

Tin Angel was not like any other restaurant. It was funky and laid back, less like a dinner out and more like a dinner in the home your favorite punky, bohemian friends. Robin left the nest some years ago. But Jerry and Kestrel, while raising two kids with a conscience, created a unique space on the frontier of Salt Lake’s ragged edge. The location was a bold choice at the time it opened and its presence brought and maintained a civilizing influence to a still troubled part of our city.

Determinedly personal, boldly different, absolutely unpretentious, the Angel’s style and feel was un-replicable. It has been the diametric opposite of a chain restaurant and everything that term implies. In a city which tends towards conformity, takes comfort in herd-thinking, is more inclined to copy than be original and likes to keep a close eye on appearances, Tin Angel was a rebel.

Kestrel and Jerry didn’t follow leaders or trends or rules. They followed their hearts instead and it showed in every meal at Tin Angel.

Tin Angel is not gone, K and J have taken over the bistro space at in the Eccles Theater on Main Street. But their funky perch across from Pioneer Park will close its doors on Aug. 31, 2019. I know the same love the Angels poured into the original will show up in new ways at the new place and I will dutifully review the effort soon.

But allow me a minute to mourn an old friend.

See all of our food and drink coverage here.

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Shimmy on down to Shake Shack Sandy

By Eat & Drink

No place loves a new chain restaurant like Utah. We have lots of good home-grown restaurants, but we love it when we are noticed by the guys who made it big on the coasts. Remember when In-N-Out moved here? That line of cars jamming up the parking lot to get through the drive-thru lane?

Shake Shack Sandy

Lines are out the door at Shake Shack Sandy. Photo by Adam Finkle/Slmag

Our thrill over the West Coast Burger Invasion has waned. But now the East Coast Burger Invasion has begun: Shake Shack, the much bally-hooed burger place dreamed up by restaurant magnate? Guru? Danny Meyer has opened in Sandy, thus Shake Shack Sandy, Sandy Shake Shack? And while there’s not a drive-thru window, the line of people standing in the hot August sun to order a burger, fries and frozen custard shake is daunting.

Shake Shack SandyShake Shack Sandy is housed in part of the old Valley high school—the original brick walls are still visible and the indentations that used to hold chalkboards now hold menu boards listing burgers, hotdogs and—recently introduced!—chicken nuggets. As well as flavors of shakes and concretes. The day we visited, the special shake of the day was black sesame seed. (See? It really is a restaurant rooted in Brooklyn.)

shake shackThe burgers are good—made from three specified cuts of beef and sourced as locally as possible according to spec. No antibiotics, no hormones, etc. Fries are crinkle-cut—I personally prefer skin-on hand-cut skinny fries, but these are good and switching to hand-cut ones was “one of the worst mistakes we made,” said the manager. The Shack returned to crinkle-cut. The dog is called Chicago-style; I have a quibble about the measly amount of neon-green relish and would say more is required to earn the moniker “Chicago.” But that’s a critic’s quibble and frankly (see what I did?) Shake Shack has no need of a critic.

In nice weather, the big garage doors on the east side open and there’s a shuffleboard court outside. Corn hole is also available and the concrete space is considered a playground. There’s also a stack of board games—remember how to play Sorry!—if you want to linger over your burger meal. Right now, the dining area, when all 143 seats are taken, sounds like a school cafeteria; it’s a little hard to imagine lingering. But, again according to the manager, Shake Shack isn’t a fast food restaurant, although the kitchen aims for an eight-minute serve time.. It’s a genre called fine casual—“We have our roots in fine dining.”

See all of our food and drink coverage here.

 

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Sip a bit, learn a lot at 3 local wine dinners

By Eat & Drink

Have some dinner with your wine—sip-and-learn events are getting better and more frequent in Salt Lake City and there’s really only one way to increase your wine knowledge: Taste more wine. So sign up. The next week holds several wine events.

MENU

“Daisy” Pinot Gris; Tomato Tart, mixed greens
“Aurosa” Pinot Gris; Eggplant Arancini, romesco
“Alium” Pinot Gris; Stuffed Squid, puttanesca
“Juel” Pinot Noir; Pork “shankitos,” Jicama slaw
Deets: Wednesday, August 28th  7 p.m.; $45 Food $50 Wine ($95 per person); call 801-359-2814 for reservations

WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 28 — Stephen Hagen of Antiquum Farm is coming to town to tell the tale of the pinot noir he raises on his farm in Oregon, a state renowned for its pinot. Hagen is the best kind of winegrower—a fanatic. How fanatic: He says, “a perfectly crafted pile of compost ready to leave the barnyard for the pommard block which was grazed by producers of said compost is poetry at Antiquum Farm.” His farm and vineyard is an organic system. You can hear all about it at a tasting at BTG, 7 p.m. on August 7, 2019. Call for reservations. Here’s the menu. Call the restaurant if you have any dietary restrictions.

MENU

Utah Cherry Gazpacho (with a frose float); Aizpuru Rosada 2018; Hondarrabi Zuri/Honarrah Beltza, Txakoli, Basque, Compressed Watermelon Salad; La Segreta Cincino Pet-Nat 2018, Rose of Sangiovese, Umbria, Rose Poached Salmon; Ruth Lewandowski Rose
Goat Cheese Panna Cotta; Old Westminster Pet-Nat Piquette, 2018, Maryland
Deets: 6 pm, $40 Tasting Menu, $35 Wine, Make reservations at Pago.com

 

THURSDAY, AUGUST 29 — The return of R.A.D. (Rose Advocacy Dinner) As Pago owner Scott Evans points out, the need for a Rose Advocacy Dinner is long gone—the rows and rows of rose in DABC stores are testament to the established popularity of this once (mistakenly) eschewed wine. But hey, it’s fun to drink rose. And fun to eat pink food!

MENU

CUCUMBER CAPRESE: pepita basil pesto, mission fig compote; SAUVION, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine France, 2016
PROSCIUTTO-WRAPPED ALASKAN HALIBUT: israeli couscous, herbed citrus beurre noisette; Pence Vineyards, Chardonnay Santa Barbara California, 2015
WAGYU FILET MIGNON: Spanish chorizo and white bean cassoulet, rosemary and rioja reduction; Bodegas Muga, Reserva Rioja Spain, 2014
POACHED PEAR GALETTE: cinnamon ginger whipped mascarpone; Cru d’arche Pugneau, Sauvignon Blanc Sauternes France, 2015

ALSO, THURSDAY, AUGUST 29 — Yes, Fleming’s is a chain steakhouse but it’s at the high end of everything and it behaves more like a local restaurant—a good example is this upcoming wine dinner. Chef Partner Jeremiah Hester and Wine Manager Josh Jones look locally when they plan their menus like this one.

See all of our food and drink coverage here.