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Jeremy Pugh

Jeremy Pugh is Salt Lake magazine's Editor. He covers culture, history, the outdoors and whatever needs a look. Jeremy is also the author of the book "100 Things to Do in Salt Lake City Before You Die" and the co-author of the history, culture and urban legend guidebook "Secret Salt Lake."

Dec 17
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holiday wine list

Tracey Thompson’s Guide to Holiday Sipping

By Eat & Drink

We asked Tracey Thomson of Vine Lore to run the field with a good, reasonable, budget-minded holiday wine list for the season. “What is interesting isn’t necessarily the most expensive. That’s often the case,” she says. “I like to surprise and put out bottles that people don’t recognize, from surprising regions,” Oh. One more thought. “Always bubbles.”

So about those bubbles…

I’m an absolute fan of bubbles, and Gruet Sparkling Wines are one of my favorites. They’re made using the same method as Champagne but at a fraction of the price. From the crisp Brut to the vibrant Rosé and the delicate Blanc de Blancs, there’s a Gruet to suit every palate. 

  • Pietramore Trebbiano Metodo Ancestrale, Abruzzo

Pietra= stone. Amore = love- $20 beautiful, expressive sparkler! 

Organic, Biodynamic, Sustainable. Crafted by Maria Pia Leone & partner Massililiano Bartolomei. TA lovely medium-bodied sparkler sure to engage in conversation over the notes of orange blossom- citrus, brioche aromas. Pairs well with savory starters, pasta, fish and seafood dishes, tapas or antipasti, and shrimp salad. 

  • Indigenous Prosecco, Veneto 

$19 to $16 

Famed winemaker Giorgio Rivetti’s mission is to lead with the authenticity of Italian terroir. 

100% estate grown for under $20 (and $16 when on sale) 

Creamy with notes of apple and white peach. Bright with hints of sweet spice. 

  • When only Champagne will do…. you will find Laurent Perrier La Cuvée AND Rosé on the bar.

A family-owned champagne house led by women stands as a testament to tradition and innovation. Their commitment to environmental consciousness is evident in their sustainable practices, ensuring that every bottle of Laurent-Perrier reflects their respect for the land.

With its rich history, exceptional quality, and commitment to sustainability, Laurent-Perrier is a timeless choice for discerning champagne lovers. La Cuvée Brut is crafted from a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, this champagne delivers a harmonious balance of flavors. Its delicate aromas of citrus, white flowers, and brioche are complemented by a refreshing acidity and a persistent mousse. 

Laurent-Perrier’s La Cuvée Rosé is a stunning expression of the house’s commitment to quality and tradition. Crafted from 100% Pinot Noir, this rosé champagne is renowned for its delicate yet complex flavors. A very versatile champagne that pairs beautifully with a variety of dishes, from seafood to light meats

But of course whites

A known varietal from an under-represented region, I love the wines from South Africa from our partners at Baobab Wines. They focus on family-owned and operated vineyards that tell the true story of the history, terroir and culture that is shaping the future of the South African wine industry.

  • Backbone Sauvignon Blanc, Walker Bay, 2022

$15 to $13

Cool climate Sauvignon Blanc takes you right to the ocean’s edge where you can smell the salt in the air. Bone-dry with a citrus-like acidity. Gooseberry and grapefruit aromas with hints of ripe guava, lemon zest and top notes of rose blossoms. 

90 pts Robert Parker

  • Avondale Jonty’s Ducks Chenin Blanc, Paarl, South Africa 

$19 $16 

Brand new to the state Certified Organic and Biodynamic. Family run estate 

Chenin Blanc driven with the balance made up of Roussanne, Viognier & Semillon

This is a mouthwatering gem. Lime, grapefruit, pineapple, quince, with just a dash of honey on the nose. 95 points Decanter 

Pairings: Pasta with Clam sauce, Curries, Peking Duck. My go-to when I order Hong Kong tea house for our New Year’s Day tradition. 

  • Heron Chardonnay, California, 2022

Founded in the mid-’90s by Laely Heron. Her commitment to minimal intervention winemaking has allowed the company to produce wines that authentically reflect the unique characteristics of their terroirs.

This vibrant, flint-colored Chardonnay illustrates its unoaked composition in appearance as well as profile. Ripe citrus and tropical notes such as guava and passion fruit. Subtle clove spice underneath, with a key lime scent. The palate sows fruit from apricots to Fuji apples, to dried pineapple and ripe casaba melon. 

Rosé

There will always be a rosé on the bar—year-round. 

  • Lorenza Rosé, Lodi, California, 2022

My domestic pick is from the mother-daughter team at Lorenza. Crafting their old vine rosé from sustainably and organically farmed vineyards in the Mediterranean climate of Lodi.

38% Carignan, 31% Cinsaut, 18% Grenache, 13% Mourvèdre. Aromas of exotic white peaches, soft melon and white blossoms. The wine feels like satin on the palate. Flavors of peach and the white flesh of a watermelon with a key lime finish. Sustainably and organically farmed vineyards. Vegan-Friendly, Gluten Free

Reds: Let’s Get Dark

  • Bodegas de Santo Tomás Tempranillo-Cabernet Sauvignon Valle de Santo Tomas, 2020

$33 – $29 on sale 

The oldest winery in Baja California and one of the oldest in North America proudly stands as the first Mexican winery led by a female winemaker.

A wine that is highly structured and well-balanced offering good acidity. Aged in French oak for 9 to 12 months. Ripe nose of mixed berries, plum jam, and spice with a palate of pure concentrated fruit, leather, allspice, clove, and a hint of white pepper.

  • Portugal does not just produce award-winning fortified wines (Port)

Still wines from Portugal deliver an incredible value – quality ratio.  Most of us recognize Dow’s winery as a port producer but are becoming well known for the still red and white wines of depth and structure they produce in their state-of-the-art winery. 

Vine Lore’s Tracey Thompson. Photo by Adam Finkle.

  • Dow’s Vale do Bomfim Douro, Portugal  DOC 

$16 to $13 

A historic winery ( founded in 1896) on the Duoro River in Portugal owned and managed by legacy, award-winning Port producer,  the Symington Family. 

40% Touriga Nacional 30% Tinta Roriz, 20% Touriga Franca 10% Tinta Barroca

Comprised of indigenous varietals of the region—that yes, you will also find in Port. 

Blackberries, bright cherry, with violet undertones. Medium tannins- fresh acidity.

Pair with Red Meat, Lamb, Pork and red sauces. 

Nossa Imports was founded in Tucson by the husband-and-wife team of Dale and Stephen Ott. Both trained as sommeliers and with over 30 years of experience in all three tiers of the alcohol industry. They are excited to shed light upon historically relevant wine regions around the world that are making high-quality wines deserving of international visibility.

  • Bodegas de Santo Tomás Tempranillo-Cabernet Sauvignon

Valle de Santo Tomas, 2020

The oldest winery in Baja California and one of the oldest in North America, proudly stands as the first Mexican winery led by a female winemaker. A wine that is highly structured and well-balanced offering good acidity. Aged in French oak for 9 to 12 months. Ripe nose of mixed berries, plum jam, and spice with a palate of pure concentrated fruit, leather, allspice, clove, and a hint of white pepper.

Browne Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley  A full-bodied beauty with aromas of dark plum, anise, dark berry, cigar box 

  • Flavor: Black fruit, red apple, blackberry, jasmine, chocolate, blueberries, plums, vanilla, rose petals, Vann cherry, black coffee, cassis, bitter chocolate, mocha 

  • Finish: Cigar box aromas, dried cranberries, sweet oak, dark chocolate, forest floor 

  • Tannins: Persistent tannins, big tannins 

Some say the wine pairs well with wild game, braised beef, fatty T-bone or Porterhouse steaks.

**Pinot Noir (Oregon or Burgundy)**  

A light, elegant red with soft tannins, Pinot Noir pairs well with turkey, ham, or mushroom-based dishes.

  • Willamette Valley Vineyards Estate Pinot Noir

Willamette Valley, 2022

Willamette Valley Vineyards- a cornerstone of Oregon’s wine industry, renowned for its exceptional Pinot Noir. Emphasizing sustainability, the winery employs organic and environmentally friendly farming practices across its vineyards. 

Their wines, particularly Pinot Noir, showcase the region’s terroir with complexity and finesse, reflecting the valley’s cool climate and diverse soils. With a unique community and employee ownership structure, Willamette Valley Vineyards fosters a deep connection between its wines, the land, and the people who enjoy them.

Expressing the terroir of our three estate vineyards. This wine exemplifies the classic “Willamette Valley style” with aromas of black cherry, rich spices of clove and anise, and savory herbs and earth. Medium-bodied, round and juicy, the palate offers flavors of raspberry puree and clove and concludes with bright acidity and integrated tannins.

91 pts James Suckling

Non-Alcoholic Picks: Revolutionizing Refreshment

My husband is a non-drinker—and as much as I LOVE a glass of wine while cooking dinner, clinking glasses with friends or pairing at a meal I also love to hit the foothills in the early mornings and do make a conscientious effort towards mindful consumption and healthy lifestyle by moderating the alcohol—without sacrificing the fun.

I have been searching for complex and compelling non-alcoholic wine and spirits since 2012 and their time has arrived!

My weeknight go-to is De Soi Très Rosé non-alcoholic apéritif—fueled by aptogens—Lion’s Mane, L-Theanine and Reidhi Mushroom I love the simplicity and ease of the can.  POur over rocks in a pretty glass with a dried orange peel (sourced from the talented Andrea Latimer @ SLC’s Bitters Lab) 

And for my underage and never-alcohol-consuming family and friends, I love… 

  • Zilch Brut Bubbles. Made from California grapes but never fermented so zilch, zip, nada alcohol 

You’ve got the wine list, now how about a few hosting tips? See Tracey’s advice on holiday hosting here!

Nov 08
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Macy's Utah

Why Does Macy’s Have the Exterior from a Famous Utah Department Store?

By Utah Lore

At its inception, Zion’s Cooperative Mercantile Institution was a specifically Mormon institution. Known more often by its acronym ZCMI it was envisioned by Brigham Young, Utah’s Territorial Governor and LDS Church leader as a method for early settlers to financially cooperate to avoid price gouging from eastern merchants and acquire goods that could not be produced locally. ZCMI was often the only store in smaller Utah communities and was essentially the Utah equivalent of Sears & Roebuck along with its own catalog. 

That’s frontier history. Meanwhile, the facade on the flagship store is a piece of American architectural history, says Robert Baird, a retired principal at Historical Arts & Casting. “Brigham Young wanted to build a model city,” Baird says. “He’d been to New York City and Philadelphia. He wanted to bring what those cities had to Salt Lake.” What those cities had was cast iron. Previously, large buildings were made out of masonry. However, the innovation of the cast-iron facade allowed taller, stronger structures with bigger windows.

Macy's Utah
A 1970s rendering of the remodeling of the ZCMI Center design that preserved the cast-iron facade.
Photos courtesy of Utah Historic Society and Stuart Graves

“A department store is all over that,” says Martha Bradley, author of the book ZCMI: America’s First Department Store. “You want to display goods, and the advent of the cast-iron facade allows for this moment where life in American cities really takes off. Suddenly you’re walking down city streets, dazzled by this variety of goods. This sense of abundance made cast iron the backbone for a new era.”

Utah’s ‘Bloomies’ 

Macy's Utah
Book Cover of America’s First Department Store written by Utah Historian
ZCMI started as a frontier store to supply Utah settlers and became America’s first department store.
Photos courtesy of Utah Historic Society and Stuart Graves

And with the completion of the transcontinental railroad, Young could bring cast-iron building technology to Utah. The facade was installed in 1868. Flash forward a century later. In 1973, the facade was slated for demolition to make way for the ZCMI Center Mall. There was an outcry from local preservationists like Baird’s father, Steven. The group demanded that ZCMI shoppers cut up their store charge cards and send in the pieces in protest, which they did. In large numbers. The “charge card” protest saved the facade. But déjà vu! It again faced the wrecking ball in 2006 to make way for yet another mall, City Creek Center. By 2006, ZCMI, after years of falling sales, had sold out to Macy’s, one of the marquee stores in City Creek Center. Macy’s owners, mindful of the history and beloved nature of the facade, agreed to preserve and install it on Macey’s storefront on Main Street. No credit card protest was required. 

In her book, America’s First Department Store, Utah Historian Martha Bradley makes a compelling case that ZCMI was essentially the first department store in America. “From the word go, it had a range of products under one roof from dry goods to horse tack,” she writes. Take that Bloomingdale’s!

Oct 31
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Untitled design (1)

Utah Lore: Emo’s Grave

By Community

At the top of the hills in the Avenues, the northern part of Salt Lake City, is the Salt Lake City Cemetery, a sprawling graveyard—one of the largest city-owned cemeteries in the United States. About 120,000 people have been buried there since its formation in 1851, but one mausoleum in the Jewish section has become a legend among ghost hunters. And teenagers looking for a lark. 

Salt Lake cemetery
Jacob Moritz. Photo courtesy of Utah State Historical Society.

The legend claims that if you hold a lighted candle and circle the grave three times, chanting “Emo, Emo, Emo,” a pair of demonic red eyes will glower out of the mausoleum’s window. Only there’s no window now, just a sheet of rusty metal. The legend evolved, and now has it that you’ll see a ghost with red eyes appear near the grave. It is also alleged that this was the grave of Salt Lake’s first acknowledged Satanist. Other versions claim this is the grave of a 7-foot-tall Native man or that it is the grave of a miner killed in an explosion engineered by his wife and her lover. There are more variants but all agree on the grave-circling and the red eyes. 

It’s actually the grave of Bavarian-born Jacob Moritz, founder of Salt Lake Brewery and once owner of 36 local pubs. Moritz became a respected man in Utah, a member of the 1895 convention that drafted Utah’s original constitution under which it would finally become a state. Moritz’s brief political stint also brought him head-to-head with Simon Bamberger when the two ran heated campaigns for a seat in the state legislature. In the end, Bamberger became the first Jewish governor of Utah and Moritz suffered some bad press. Bamberger, that very same opponent, is buried in a grave directly across from Moritz. Perhaps a lingering resentment for Mr. Bamberger is the cause for “Emo” to rise from the grave when called upon, casting an eternal withering glare at his former political rival. Or so says Kristen Clay, director of Salt Lake City and Ogden Ghost Tours, “Imagine if Trump and Biden were buried across from one another, one of them would definitely rise up to face their mortal enemy as a ghost.” 

Discover more spooky Utah history here.

Oct 29
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editors note

Editors Note: Put the ‘Wonder’ Back into ‘The Most Wonderful Time of the Year’

By Community

As we get older, it’s hard to remember how much the holidays meant to us when we were just little kids. There were so many mysteries and questions. Why is Dad bringing a tree into our house? Why are we putting our socks up on the fireplace? A man in a red suit climbs down our chimney in the middle of the night and he gets cookies? It’s like the whole world is playing an elaborate practical joke on 5-year-olds. But, of course, the presents have a way of clearing up any misunderstandings. 

We still retain those magical memories even as we take up the responsibility of creating them for our loved ones. That doesn’t mean, however, it must be a chore. We’re insiders, after all, we know who the man in the red suit is. (And we know the secret ingredient to grandma’s punch.) 

editors note
Executive Editor, Jeremy Pugh
Photo by Adam Finkle

This year, we wanted to help you in your quest to capture that holiday magic again. We spoke to five entertaining pros who offered their secrets to creating wonderful holiday moments with your favorite people. On the cover, for example, we have Cara Fox, who once again has the honor of decorating the Christmas Tree at the Governor’s Mansion for Utah’s first family. And while it’s perfectly understandable that you won’t go the same great lengths for your holiday decorating, she offers advice we can all use to inject whimsey and, most of all, have fun. The latter is the common denominator in advice offered by all our pros, who remind us to relax and remember why we get together for the holidays. “If I’m not relaxed my guests aren’t relaxed,” says expert Tracey Thompson. “I don’t rush to the finish line anymore. Sometimes things won’t be perfect.”

Aside from your own gatherings, there are more ways to enjoy this time of year. To that end, we offer you a day-by-day calendar of fun thing to do around the state. There’s likely no way you’ll be able to do everything on this jam-packed list (although we dare you to try), but there’s something for everyone to explore.

Oct 17
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AdobeStock_302980951

Utah Lore: Funeral Potatoes

By Eat & Drink

It’s a casserole with weight

At the juniper inn take out restaurant in Logan, whatever you’re ordering comes with the option of “au gratin” potatoes. But locals know this cheesy, calorie-laden side dish of scalloped Idaho Russets dusted with cornflakes by its more specific taxonomy: “Funeral Potatoes.”

The gloomy moniker comes from the prevalence of this easy-to-prepare casserole at post-graveside-service receptions in LDS ward houses and grieving open houses up and down the Jell-O Belt (Utah, Southeastern Idaho, Off-Off-The-Strip Las Vegas and Orange County, Calif.). It is a member of the genus Hot Dish, native to the northern plains of the Midwestern United States, but its Utah prominence has evolved as a result of two distinct, selective factors: No. 1 large families and No. 2 even larger gatherings (such as funerals) attended by multiple large families.

So-called funeral potatoes are also commonly sighted at family reunions, both stake and ward picnics/campouts, wedding receptions and any occasion where hungry multitudes require easy, cheesy calories. 

Its plumage varies from Relief Society Cookbook region to region, but the staples are: Frozen hashbrown potatoes, copious amounts of mild cheddar and/or Monterey Jack cheese (sharper cheese is eschewed), a can of cream of mushroom soup (generic brand varieties preferred), lots of margarine and commercial sour cream and a “crisp” topping such as corn flakes (again, off-brand) or potato chips for even more sodium. Bake at 350 for one hour, seal with foil, place on a foldout, ward-house table and insert spoon. (Find a full recipe from the late and great Mary Malouf here)

The principal consumers of Funeral Potatoes are LDS bishops, morticians and Relief Society and Elders’ Quorum presidents. Funeral Potatoes started popping up on menus with cheeky chef-driven flair (Gruyere, anyone?) a few years ago, and, of course, the  aforementioned Juniper Take Out and Restaurant is a classic source.

But Utah is just recently coming to terms with its own food identity. One day we will have our own evangelist of regional cuisine—a Paula Deen with a Hyrum accent. And where cheese grits are on the menu at The Lady & Sons in Savannah, funeral potatoes will one day occupy the same spot on the buffet at Sister Wives or some such aptly named Temple of Utah’s own delicacies.

 

Sep 26
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St George Marathon_SLM SO24_ City of St George

Discover More Than Just the Race During the St. George Marathon

By Travel

Salt lake resident Stuart Graves has run a whopping 47 marathons worldwide. Although he still runs every day, his marathoning days are behind him (“I can’t even imagine doing a marathon again.”) He has fond memories of the St. George race which was extra special because the course gave him two of his fastest times and was the marathon that qualified him for the pinnacle of distance running The Boston Marathon, which he’s run twice.

Stuart says that the course is popular with runners around the world precisely for that reason. “It’s known as a fast course and is a sanctioned Boston qualifier, so people come from all over to run it,” he says. 

Its setting in the red rock country of Southwestern Utah provides a dramatic backdrop for the 26.2 miles. “You are running past lava fields, stunning red rock formations,” he says. And, because the course has a good elevation drop (hence faster times), it provides stunning views the entire way. It also helps, he says, that the race is in the fall. This year’s date is set for Saturday, Oct. 5. “But it’s still pretty warm even that time of year,” Stuart says.

“It’s definitely not all downhill,” he cautions. “There’s a butt kicker of a hill near Veyo for example but it’s an otherworldly setting to run in.” And, after the race, it’s easy to take recovery hikes in nearby Snow Canyon State Park, take a dip in the reservoir at Gunlock State Park or venture to Springdale and Zion National Park.

We asked Stuart for some suggestions on creating a complete marathon weekend down south. 

Find your Base

The Advenire, Autograph Collection (marriott.com), is a boutique hotel in downtown St. George’s small historic district. The Advenire’s blend of modern elegance and historical charm create an excellent base to get some quality sleep before race day. The Red Mountain Resort (redmountainresort.com) in nearby Ivins, is another option that includes a focus on wellness and spa services to help you calm your nerves before or recover after the marathon. Stuart also says runners can consider staying in Cedar City, about an hour north of St. George. “I never really sleep the night before a marathon,” he says. “And rooms fill up fast in St. George so one year, I just got up an hour earlier and made the trip down from Cedar City.” 

Pre-Race fuel

The St. George Marathon is a draw for runners because it is a downhill course (mostly) and a Boston Marathon qualifier. Image courtesy of City of St. George.

The day before the race, get lunch at Riggatti’s Wood Fired Pizza (riggattis.com), where the thin, crispy crust and fresh ingredients create a perfect balance of flavors. The spinach and ricotta pizza, paired with a crisp Caesar salad, is an excellent choice for a light meal.

For dinner, try Cappeletti’s (cappelettisrestaurantstgeorge.com), a cozy Italian restaurant located in the heart of St. George. Pasta dishes, like Fettuccine Alfredo are carb-heavy splurges. 

The Marathon

Race day comes early. St. George is an out-and-back race where runners are bussed to the starting line. “It’s a nice feature of the route,” Stuart says. “Even though you have to get up earlier, it’s much nicer running back into town, rather than a loop, which means you have to run the same terrain twice.” The marathon route shows off the majestic red rock formations outside of St. George and as you return to the town and finish line, the route is lined with cheering crowds. “Even though this is a big race, it still feels like a small town and the crowds are so supportive,” Stuart says. 

Post-Race Indulgence

Celebrate your accomplishment (hopefully) with a post-race feast at Cliffside Restaurant (cliffsiderestaurant.com). Perched atop a hill, the restaurant offers breathtaking views of St. George and the surrounding desert. Spoil yourself with the surf and turf—a Ribeye steak and a fresh seafood platter, washed down by a refreshing Mojito. The sunset over the red cliffs is the perfect end to a marathon day.  

Sep 18
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Newport Beach

Explore The Buttoned-Down Beach Town of Newport

By Adventures, Travel

Newport Beach is just 20 minutes north of another iconic Orange County beach town, Laguna Beach. But they are worlds apart. Laguna Beach is the silhouette of a tousle-haired blond emerging from the surf as the sun sets. Newport Beach is a handsome couple, clad in Dolce and Gabbana, climbing out of an Escalade. Laguna is track one, side one of The Beach Boys’ Pet Sounds.

Pirate’s Cove is known for being calm and waveless, making it a good place for families to swim.
Photos courtesy of Visit Newport Beach.

Newport is Yacht Rock. The energy in Newport is upscale, the hedges are manicured and the scene oozes style. But don’t let the flash fool you. This is still a beach town, with plenty of sun, sand and nautical adventures to be had. (It just has better shopping.) As winter looms here in Utah, consider the short flight from SLC to John Wayne Airport for your fall getaway and explore the good life. 

Newport’s Ship Comes In

Newport’s name comes from a brave (or foolhardy, decide for yourself) nautical feat. After the Civil War, western migration spiked and many emigrants settled in the area looking for agricultural land. Access to the sea (and important supplies) however, was made difficult by the narrow and shallow opening to Newport Bay, then called San Joaquin Bay. In 1870, an intrepid merchant marine named Captain Samuel Sumner Dunnels successfully dared the channel, with a 105-ton, flat-bottomed steamer loaded with lumber and supplies from San Diego. Dunnels proclaimed that he had discovered a “New Port” and there you have it. Dredging and widening of the channel in the early part of the 20th century made the bay entry less dangerous, and, for a time, Newport was a major shipping port on the coast before rail arrived and major shipping moved north to San Pedro. This was fortuitous and changed the town’s trajectory from heavy industry towards tourism and leisure. The wide bay became a port of call for the pleasure craft of the wealthy. Yacht rock, baby.

Bar Pendry at Pendry Newport Beach.
Photos courtesy of Bar Pendry.

Stay: Pendry Newport Beach

For a taste of Newport’s well-heeled lifestyle stay at Pendry Newport Beach (pendry.com) a newly renovated luxury hotel located near Newport’s iconic shopping center, Fashion Island. You’ll be welcomed with the hotel’s signature Pendry drink (every Pendry has a non-alcoholic refresher to greet guests).

Protip: Use the codeword “Daffodil” at the bar and they’ll kick it up a notch with a top-shelf spirit. Remember. You are not in Utah anymore.

Pendry Newport Beach is a full-service hotel with an emphasis on service. A fleet of staffers is deployed around the hotel to ensure no request is too small or too big. After check-in be sure to visit (or revisit) the Bar Pendry. Hotel bars can often be dreary, populated with bored spouses and business travelers hunched over laptops. This hotel bar, however, is hopping with live music and a solid bar menu. Since Pendry’s renovation, it has become a popular spot with actual Newport Beach locals, who are a friendly, convivial bunch. 

Play:  Explore the California Coast

You came here for the water, right? The best way to get into the Newport vibe is to book a Whale Watching tour with the guiding outfit Newport Coastal Adventure (newportcoastal
adventure.com). The coast beyond the harbor is teeming with ocean life. Dolphins and whales await as you zoom around the ocean in a zippy Zodiac with narration and marine science banter flowing from your crew. (On a recent trip we saw many humpback whales and enjoyed a rare sighting of a blue whale, the big mamma! Also, lots of frolicking dolphins). 

Newport Coastal Adventure and other outfitters offer whale-watching tours via Zodiac, a small craft that moves fast. Photos courtesy of Visit Newport Beach.

Eat & Drink:  Dining from lux to Comfort

Fuel up for (or conclude) a shopping trip to Fashion Island at Joey Newport (joeyrestaurants.com) with a great happy hour and an open patio that features a bar and retractable sections of the roof. Enjoy the coastal air and a glass of well-deserved champagne around the outdoor fire pit. Find a farm-to-table breakfast and water views at Malibu Farm Lido (malibu-farm.com) known for its fresh, organic and local ingredients. The opposite of Malibu Farm Lido would be Breakfast at Wilma’s Patio (wilmaspatio.com), a classic diner in the older part of Newport featuring a selection of “Balboa Bombers” a mess of eggs, meat and hashbrowns served in a hollowed-out sourdough bread bowl. Enjoy an elegant lunch on the outdoor patio back at Pendry Newport Beach at the hotel’s signature restaurant, SET: Steak & Sushi (setnewport.com). Finally, for a scenic (and delicious) experience, book a harbor tour on a Duffy Boat with Sea Señorita (seasenoritaduffy.com). Duffy boats are small all-electric boats that ply the harbor and can host floating parties for, say, bachelorettes or friend-tribe trips. In our case, we concluded our tour at the dock outside of Blue Water Grill (bluewatergrill.com) an excellent seafood restaurant with the requisite seasonal fish, oysters, clams and crab on the menu.  

Photos courtesy of Visit Newport Beach.

The One and Only Crystal Cove State Park

Amid all the finer things in life found in Newport Beach, there is a special scruffy little gem preserved from another time. Crystal Cove State Park (crystalcovestatepark.org) is the site of a handful of beach shacks that were “built” in the 1920s. We put that in quotation marks because these are improvisational structures. The small community used whatever they had on hand to enhance these bric-a-brac buildings, which often began as “kit homes” bought from the Sears & Roebuck catalog. The site became a popular movie location for films like South Pacific and Beach Blanket Bingo, with its most well-known turn in the movie Beaches. (One of the cabins was the location for the film’s heart-wrenching ending.) You can visit the park, a lovely cove with surf to splash in, tidal pools to explore and waterside dining where you can witness the daily happy hour raising of the martini flag at the Beachcomber at Crystal Cove (thebeachcombercafe.com). (Motto: “Every night is Saturday night, and Saturday night is New Year’s Eve. Come raise the flag with us!”) But the Taylor Swift ticket here is scoring a reservation for one of the cabins and spending the night. The booking system is administered by California State Parks and is much like reserving a public campsite. It’s first-come-first-served, you get what you get, with spots opening on a rolling window, allowing reservations up to six months in advance. Try your luck at reservecalifornia.com.

Sep 12
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Woman hiking through Zion Narrows_SLMSO24_AdobeStock_1450755

Explore Zion National Park in the Fall

By Adventures, Outdoors

Of the five National Parks in Utah, Zion (not “Zion’s”) is the most-visited. It drew 4.6 million visits in 2023 (only slightly less than the Grand Canyon’s 4.7 million). The park’s popularity makes visiting in peak season, well, kind of a bummer. The peak of those visits happens from April through early September. This makes late September and October two of the best times to explore. Temperatures cool and the crowds thin out. There will be other visitors for sure (especially on the Instagram-bucket-list hike Angel’s Landing, which requires a permit for only the latter half of the trail.) But it’s much easier to find spaces of solitude. Take for example, the second most popular hike in the park, The Narrows (pictured above). This “hike” is a scramble up the Virgin River. The area near the trailhead is busy, but fortune favors the bold. The further you go upriver, the less folks there are. To tolerate the cold water, rent a Narrows hiking package from Zion Adventure Company (zionadventures.com) or Zion Outfitter (zionoutfitter.com). They include felt bottom boots that make scrambling over the rocks easier, waders and even full dry suits.

How to Explore Zion National Park in the Fall

Zion is Utah’s lowest park in both elevation and latitude, so its weather tends to be fair year-round. During the fall in Zion National Park can expect rain but rarely snow. You’ll encounter cool temperatures, especially in sunless canyon bottoms like The Narrows. Springdale, located just below the park entrance, is for the most part open for business in the winter season, but restaurants and stores often limit their hours. The Cable Mountain Lodge has a helpful “what’s open” guide.

Zion National Park in Fall
View from Angels Landing. Photo by Visit Utah.

The Big Hikes

Angel’s Landing — Distance: 5.4 miles

This is a pre-lawyer hiking trail. It’s a butt-kicking climb to the very top of Zion Canyon, famously completed by a “chain route”—where the vertiginously narrow trail offers chain handholds as you crawl up tummy-turning sections with sheer drop-offs. Yes, people have fallen. No, they did not survive. Yet the trail remains open, perhaps because the payoff is so spectacular—a perch on Angel’s Landing with stunning views in every direction and a sense of fear-facing accomplishment. Do not do this hike in less-than clement weather. 

The Narrows—Distance: 9.4 miles

The Narrows is a scramble up the Virgin River. You splash over and around river-rock bowling balls as towering rock walls close together as you ascend the canyon. In the summertime, people tackle The Narrows in sandals and shorts, but in the off season you’ll need some gear. Rent a dry suit from Zion Outfitters (zionoutfitter.com). The thick, rubbery suits keep the water out and you warm and dry inside. And although you’ll look like you belong on a Star Trek landing party, you’ll feel invincible wading through the chest-deep water near the top. The kit also comes with extra-grip water shoes and a giant wooden pole that makes your scrambling easier. The hike terminates at the backcountry boundary (permit required). And although you’re not hiking uphill, all the wading and clambering is tiring, so remember you’ll have to return the way you came. Consider turning back before you’re all gassed out.

Off-season Eats

Whiptail Grill

Whiptail Grill is a cute cantina in a converted gas station, serving creative takes on Mexican cuisine. 445 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, whiptailgrillzion.com, 435-772-0283

Off-season Stay

Cable Mountain Lodge

Located right at the mouth of Zion Canyon, Cable Mountain Lodge is practically in the park. The lodge has standard hotel rooms as well as family-sized suites with kitchens and plenty of space. Bonus: The hot tub is open year-round. 147 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, cablemountainlodge.com, 435-772-3366

Find more tips and tricks on Utah’s National Parks in the office season, here

Sep 10
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Hogle Zoo Elephant Princess Alice_SLM SO24_Salt Lake Tribune Staff

Meet Salt Lake’s First Elephant: Princess Alice

By Community, Utah Lore

Ted Smith/ S.L. Parks Department’s Utah Writers Project, Utah State Historical Society. 

Around 1911, Salt Lake City completed work on its first major park, Liberty Park. The park was built in the grand tradition of New York’s Central Park and London’s Hyde Park, albeit on a much smaller scale. In that tradition, Salt Lake City’s grand park must have a zoo among its attractions. Animals exotic and, more often, not so exotic filled the menagerie. But what zoo is complete, at least in the minds of Salt Lake City residents at the turn of the 20th Century, without an elephant? In 1916, Salt Lake City school children gathered up nickels, dimes and pennies in a fundraising drive and purchased an Asian elephant from a traveling circus for what was then the elephantine sum of $3,250. Her name was Princess Alice and she came with her circus handler. Emil “Dutch” Shider.

Princess Alice was a favorite, drawing visitors from around the region. But Alice didn’t take well to captivity. She became known for her daring escapes, rampaging around the surrounding Liberty Wells neighborhood, knocking down fences and hiding from searchers for hours. The repeated escapes, although charming, alarmed neighbors and prompted an effort to relocate the zoo to its current location at the mouth of Emigration Canyon in 1931. 

Local author and historian Linda Sillitoe memorialized Princess Alice’s exploits in her work of fiction The Thieves of Summer, which she set during her childhood in Salt Lake City around the time Princess Alice and the zoo moved to Emigration Canyon.

A sculpture in relief of Princess Alice’s visage was included in the elephant enclosure and remains there today. Even with the new digs, in 1947, she once again escaped, rampaging around the zoo grounds. In 1953, at the age of 69, Alice was euthanized after a prolonged illness. 

Art installation located at Hogle Zoo commemorating Princess Alice. Photo by Elizabeth Rudloff, Tim Kelly/ Utah State Historical Society.

Salt Lake Elephant
Emil “Dutch” Shider (above) was
Alice’s longtime caretaker. Ted Smith/ S.L. Parks Department’s Utah Writers Project, Utah State Historical Society. 

Alice’s Offspring

In 1918, Alice gave birth to a male elephant named Prince Utah, the first elephant ever born in Utah. Sadly, he died a year later after his mother rolled over on him.

Aug 28
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View of Utah State Capitol from Memory Grove - Fall colors - Matt Morgan_Medium

Editor’s Note: September Vibes

By Community

I think we can all agree that this past summer was a bit, well, aggressive.

We love you summer, but as Shakespeare wrote, “Parting is such sweet sorrow.” Emphasis on the sweet. Welcome to September, my favorite month. Neither summer nor fall, September is a month of transition and thoughtfulness, the days grow shorter, the sky takes on its cobalt September blue and the hot summer fades into the rearview. This time of reflection is the perfect time to enjoy your musings over a cocktail, which is why we present our Farm-to-Glass Cocktail Contest every year.

Executive Editor Jeremy Pugh. Photo by Natalie Simpson, Beehive Photo

We ask the best bartenders in Utah to help us personify this time of year in a glass. This year, 18 bartenders from Park City, Salt Lake City and St. George have used local ingredients to create the basis for a dazzling tour of craft cocktail shakeups. We have compiled their stories and entries into a metaphorical “Utah Cocktail Trail.” During September and October, we invite you to hike, stroll, saunter, (crawl?) your way around to taste these thoughtful tipples at each stop. You can vote for your favorites and find the expert-level recipes to attempt at home at saltlakemagazine.com.

Leaning into the darker tones of the fall season, our writer Avrey Evans got out her EMF Meter and infrared thermometer and went ghost hunting. Utah is a hot spot for ghost-hunting podcasts and TV shows. And why not? After all Utah’s unique history is a delicious frontier mix of a history stew and makes an atmosphere perfect for seeking the paranormal. Her story (“Utah’s Most Haunted,” p. 56) uncovers the lore behind six of the most famous spots for spooky sightings (and she may have even seen a ghost on the hunt, you decide.)

Finally, discover the secret mission developed in Wendover, Utah (not Nevada) that would deliver the first nuclear bomb, end the war and launch the atomic era on planet Earth (“Under the Radar, p. 64). Yep. It happened right here. We can’t make this stuff up.

Cheers,

—Jeremy Pugh, Executive Editor.