The octopus - a marvel in the culinary world, and in Salt Lake, it shows up on multiple menus. Here are our favorites from around town.
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The LDS Conference Center was built in 2000, primarily to host the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints’ semiannual congregations of the faithful (called simply General Conferences). But it also sets the stage for many other musical and performance events—namely the Tabernacle Choir’s Christmas Concert. An engineering marvel with insanely fastidious acoustics, the 1.4-million-square-foot center seats 21,000 people and is large enough that it could fit a Boeing 747 in the main auditorium. Moreover, it was designed so that the view from every one of the 21,000 seats in the house is unobstructed by support pillars. And engineering milagro!
The LDS Conference Center is also home to the famous Tabernacle Choir at Temple Square, formerly known as the Mormon Tabernacle Choir, which was mind-bogglingly renamed in 2018. (Why would The Church give up such a household name? It’s Elvis Presley changing his name to “The Singer at the Las Vegas Hilton.” But whatever.) The Choir’s former internationally recognized name came from the Church’s original Temple Square gathering space, the Tabernacle, which the much larger Conference Center was built to replace. (Locals cheekily call the Conference Center “the SUPER-nacle.”)
The original Tabernacle still is a functioning concert hall and an interesting piece of frontier architecture. Its builders designed an amazingly acoustically sound hall. If you take the tour, the tour guides will demonstrate the acoustics by dropping a pin from the dais that you can hear at the back of the hall. Another interesting note: the pillars that support the upper mezzanine in the Tabernacle are made of wood, but the designers, seeking old-world grandeur—which, in the new world that Utah was in, was anything “from back east”—meticulously painted the wooden columns to look like striated marble. Sections of the Choir and other smaller choruses still practice and perform in the Old Tabernacle.
How Super? The numbers.
- 1,200 lights illuminate the stage.
- 38 horsepower of wind drives the Conference Center’s organ.
- 50,000 miles of electrical wire power the building, enough to circle the Earth twice.
- 8.4 on the Richter scale would not be enough of an Earthquake to topple the building.
- 620 tons of fabricated steel hold up the roof without the aid of support columns.
Info on tickets at thetabernaclechoir.org
Little Cottonwood Canyon cuts a steep, serpentine fissure through the Wasatch Range. In the winter, snow cleaves to sheer granite cliffs, stubbled with pine trees of such deep green they appear almost black. For more than 80 years, skiers have been driving the canyon road to reach the slopes of Alta Ski Area. When I started ski lessons at Alta during the 2022-2023 season, I had only a general knowledge of the long history of the area. I had no knowledge at all of how that history intertwined with mine and the histories of many Utahns who donned their first skis at Alta. For generations, Utah families of powder hounds have raised future ski pilgrims to learn the ways of the mountain faith, using Alta as their base and temple. When I learned I had unknowingly continued my own family’s Alta tradition, I prevailed upon them to share what it was like when they first skied those same slopes.
1940s Powder Hounds
“We’d go almost every weekend, not just once in a while, but we as much as we could,” My grandfather, Lloyd Bishop, started skiing with his friends as a high school student in Kaysville, Utah in the 1940s. There were not as many options then, and Alta had the best powder. He used second-hand equipment and, eventually, gear he bought “for almost nothing” from an Army surplus store after the war. (Alta served as a training ground for Army paratroopers to prepare for combat in the Alps.) To hear my grandpa tell it, nothing was more uncomfortable than heavy, 7-foot, Army-issue skis and boots. “They were just horrible,” he groans, but it was the only gear he could afford.
To earn money for a ski pass, he played saxophone in a “dance band,” performing at churches and weddings. “I started playing when I was 14 years old because—this was the start of World War II—and all of the older guys that would normally be playing were gone,” he says. “I made about $3.50 for playing the night, which is about what it cost for a day pass to Alta!” He laughs, “We would beg, borrow and steal,” anyway they could get it, he says, to ski.
Area in 1947. Photo Courtesy Lloyd Bishop
My grandfather and his friends’ quest for powder and thrills saw them skiing all day in the warmest clothes they had—thermal underwear and denim jeans and jackets—until they were soaked through. Back then, Alta had just the Alta Lodge and one main lift. The old Collins lift opened in 1939, becoming the second chairlift in the West. While my grandpa skied Alta throughout high school and college, it grew with the conversion of the Rustler and Peruvian J-bars to single-chair lifts, the opening of the Rustler and Peruvian lodges and the expansion of the Ski School.
The quest for powder drove them to hike in skins for half a day up the backside of Brighton (before there was a resort in Park City) to ski down the other side. They would spend the second half of the day skiing at Brighton for the cheaper, half-day rate. Similar ventures were made to Alta from where would eventually become Snowbird. “You were on absolutely virgin, fresh snow that nobody had ever skied. And the snow is powder, deep powder,” he explains.
In 1950, my grandfather went to Germany for an LDS Mission, where he skied the Bavarian Alps on those “horrible” Army skis at Zugspitze and gained a little perspective. It remains a popular German skiing destination and, at the time, it made ski areas in Utah look downright “primitive.” “It’s because most people didn’t realize it back then, that Alta is one of the best ski areas in the United States,” he says. “But it was also very primitive, which is both good and bad.” For example, “The road up Little Cottonwood was a challenge by itself,” he says. The road to Alta was even more treacherous and frustrating than it is now—prone to closures and fraught with avalanches that we were still developing the techniques to mitigate. On the other side of that same coin, powder hounds of the era look back at the staggering number of runs they could do on nearly unbroken powder in a day at Alta, but nothing good stays secret for long. It’s a balancing act that defines and guides Alta still today—modernizing and growing to meet demand without sacrificing the quality and nostalgia of the Alta skiing experience.
To that point, James Laughlin, the once owner of Alta Lodge is quoted saying, “You’ve got to keep some places like god made them. If you overdo it, you’ll destroy Alta…I take great pride in Alta because it is the one place that’s left that’s a little bit like the old skiing.”
School Students in the ’80s. Photo courtesy of Alta Ski Area
1970s Powder Pilgrims
“I can’t remember the name of the mountain because it wasn’t a mountain. It was a hill. It was more like a pimple.” My grandpa moved the family to New Jersey when my mom was just a kid, and skiing there, once again, gave some perspective. “They get so much traffic coming down the ski run that, when you have a curve, all the snow had been worn off.” He shakes his head. “So, they would cover the mud with straw.”
“After that, I said to the kids, ‘what would you rather do? Go to Utah and maybe only ski twice or three times a year, or continue to ski for a year here?’” It wasn’t even a question. That’s how my mom, Kellie, and her siblings ended up visiting Utah every Spring Break to ski. By then, the Goldminer’s Daughter had opened. New and expanded lifts at Alta accessed higher areas as well as some that were more beginner-friendly, as if to accommodate the cultivation of a new generation of Alta skiers.
“For me, Alta was like growing up.” Even though my mom had skied elsewhere before, she considers Alta where she really learned to ski and keep up with bigger kids on the mountain (including an older boy who was her first-ever crush). They would ski all morning, then go to the parking lot to scarf down some bagged lunch in the car, then back to skiing. “I couldn’t last all day back then,” my mom says. “I mean, granted, I would have been like eight or nine. I thought it was really cool that I could walk in my ski boots in the lodge and get hot chocolate and sit in there by a fire while I waited for everyone else to be done.” It’s one of her favorite parts of the experience.
While she remembers having to overcome her fear of heights to first ride the lifts, the transfer tow ended up being the real problem. “I would always keep my hair in a ponytail tucked into my cap,” she says, so it wouldn’t get in her face as she skied. With equal parts laughter and terror, she recounts grabbing onto the tow behind her older sister, Lynn, who wore her hair in a long, free braid. To this day no one is sure quite how it happened. The end of Lynn’s braid caught in the rope, pulling her hair as the tension increased with the addition of more riders.
My grandpa was waiting nearby and looked over to see that “it was dragging her up the mountain by her hair. I rushed down to her and skied up as fast as I could before the rope tow came to an end and she could get herself tangled.”
Not even a vindictive rope tow stopped the fun that day or the yearly pilgrimages to Alta, however, and the tale has become a piece of family lore.
And Now
I’m not a powder hound or a pilgrim. My ski lessons at Alta last season marked the first time I had skied ever. But before I graduated to the beginner runs, Patsey Marley and Crooked Mile—some of the same runs my mother braved her fear of heights to ski—I shared my brief time on the bunny hills with parents teaching their young children, who in turn had been taught to ski by their parents on those same slopes.
While the experience has changed some since my grandfather’s formative Alta years (improved facilities, new lifts and much better gear) and since their annual family spring ski trips (yet bigger, better lifts and the addition of the Albion Day Lodge) much remains the same. It’s the balance that Alta and its collection of family-owned lodges are trying to maintain. The things that remain the same, the experiences we all share, are the things that connect us to the generations that came before: The morning ritual of loading up ski gear with family and friends. The awe-inspiring but oft-frustrating drive through Little Cottonwood Canyon. The search for thrills and untouched snow. The celebration of fresh powder. Resorting to creative methods to fund an expensive habit. Bagged car lunches. Pushing ourselves to go a little higher and faster. Laughing at our siblings’ misfortunes. The simple pleasure of sipping a warm drink in a mountain lodge.
Alf Engen Ski School
In 1935, the ski school namesake, world-champion skier Alf Engen explored Alta’s slopes on behalf of the U.S. Forest Service to scout potential winter sports sites, ultimately recommending Alta as a place to develop a ski area. Engen (who also lends his name to the legendary run Alf’s High Rustler) helped found the Alta ski school and served as Ski School Director for 40 years, starting in 1949. The ski school has since become a model for others across the country. The program offers group or private lessons for adults and children of all skill levels, as well as camps and multi-week lessons with some of the best ski instructors around. alta.com/ski-school
Utah offers a selection of venues where the charcuterie board is not just an offering but a specialty. Let's slice into the scene and discover the best places for charcuterie…
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We have all been there. Standing at a picked-over rack of neckties in a crowded mall department store, debating over navy with a red pattern or red with a navy pattern, we start to wonder, “Wait. Did I get Dad a tie for Christmas last year? Or was it socks?” Regardless, he has more socks and ties than anyone who works from home could ever need. In fact, maybe we all have too much stuff. But what do you give for the holidays without adding to the clutter? Something that shows you actually love—and maybe even like—these people?
As kids, whenever we asked our moms what they wanted for Christmas she would always say, “Time together with my beautiful children.” We would always roll our eyes. How do you gift-wrap “time together” and put it under a Christmas tree, anyhow? Nowadays, we’re starting to think she was on to something. You might have to get creative with how you wrap up these presents to open up on Christmas morning, but they give the opportunity for something truly priceless: quality time together and memories to last a lifetime.
Into the Woods: Outdoor Adventures from Mild to Wild
Whether your people are backpack-in-the-mountains-for-a-week kind of people or just enjoy-the-scenery kind of people, there’s an outdoor adventure (and a gift) that is just right for them.
A License to Give
For the intrepid outdoorsman, this is a simple but thoughtful gift. Did you know that Utah State hunting and fishing licenses and permits can be purchased as gifts? Now you do. And it’s not just for the warmer seasons. There are several hunts in Utah during the winter, and don’t forget about ice fishing! wildlife.utah.gov
A Zippy Tour
What better way to see Utah than while strapped in a harness, suspended from cable dozens of feet from the ground? We all have a thrill seeker in our lives. This is for them. Sundance Resort’s ZipTour offers stunning views of Mount Timpanogos and includes the biggest vertical drop of any zipline in the country. In Heber, Zipline Utah’s “Screaming Falcon Full Tour” is apparently the longest course in the world. Bridgerland Adventure Park near Bear Lake has zip lines and ropes tours and something called a “Zorb Ball” (a floating hamster ball for people) on Bear Lake. And for tours soaring over Moab’s red-rock scenery, there’s Ravens Rim or Moab Adventure Center.
sundanceresort.com, ziplineutah.com, blap.rocks, ravensrim.com, moabadventurecenter.com
Zion Narrows (in Winter)
Exploring the famed Narrows of Zion National Park in winter is a truly unique experience. The park, woefully crowded in the summer, is practically empty in winter and crawling upriver below the towering cliff walls, coated in ice is pure splendor. Book a guided or self-guided tour at Zion Outfitter or Zion Adventures in Springdale. Tours come with dry suit rentals that will keep you warm and toasty.
zionoutfitter.com, zionadventures.com
Every Park, One Pass
This is for the person who packs up their 10-year-old Subaru to go hiking or camping every other weekend. Utah is home to five national parks, seven national monuments and even more national recreation areas, and you can give your friend free, unfettered access to all of them for an entire year with the America the Beautiful National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Pass (as well as access to every NPS area in the U.S.). The pass pays for itself after visiting just three parks. If you really like this person, you can also throw in a Utah State Parks Annual Pass, which provides access to Utah’s 44 state parks.
usparkpass.com, parkspass.utah.gov
Backcountry Ski Tour
This is for the expert skier (sorry snowboarders, it’s a ski-only thing). The Ski Utah Interconnect Adventure Tour connects up to six Utah ski resorts through backcountry terrain. This adventure includes walking, hiking, traversing, and, yes, skiing. The tour guides are experts, trained in snow safety and backcountry etiquette. Your gift recipient will be in good hands. Open and private tours are available as well as preset and custom routes.
skiutah.com
The Trip of a Lifetime
A rafting trip down the Grand Canyon is truly one of the world’s most incredible outdoor adventures. People wait for years to get a permit and only a few guide companies are allowed to run the river. One of the oldest and best outfits, Colorado River & Trail Expeditions (CRATE), offers 8- and 14-day trips (motorized and non-motorized) down the Colorado River through one of the wonders of the natural world. CRATE offers customized gift certificates. If your loved one likes white water thrills, the ideal time to go May through June. You’ll want to put this in a big box. Call 800-253-7328 or visit crateinc.com
Staycations in Utah: Explore Your Own Backyard
While gifting an international getaway might not be feasible, staycations tend to be more friendly both in planning and affordability. In our own backyard, we have chic mountain suites and modern hotels that cater to adventurers both urban and rural, for potential surprise weekend trips.
Climbing to great heights in the Granary
This is for your friend or partner who, let’s face it, hasn’t seemed to realize they’re a little too cool for you. The Granary District is swiftly joining Central 9th as one of Salt Lake City’s trendiest up-and-coming neighborhoods. The outdoor music venue Granary Live just opened this summer and, while two tickets to a live concert at the cool new venue make for a great gift on their own, why not include a place to crash after? EVO Hotel has an on-site coffee shop serving local coffee, a rooftop bar, an art campus—oh, and an on-site skate park and climbing gym. Your cool friend about town can cool down with a public art stroll through the Granary, where 12 new murals are on display.
granarylive.com, evohotel.com, thegranarydistrict.com
Adventure to Park City
A staycation at Canyons Village in Park City serves as a great base for the gift of family adventure in any season—with access to hiking, biking, lifts, skiing and snowboarding. You also don’t have to go far (just outside your hotel room door) for shops, restaurants and entertainment (like year-round fireworks shows and the perfect venue for kids’ pizza parties), not to mention a mountainside golf course. If you’re looking to gift a close-to-home ski trip for a busy family, the Epic Day Pass’s flexibility makes for the complete gift package. And we haven’t forgotten about the kiddos! The Epic SchoolKids Utah Pack is a program for local kids in Kindergarten through 5th Grade that includes five days of free skiing and riding at Park City.
parkcitymountain.com, epicpass.com
A Weekend on Broadway (in Salt Lake)
The plays: MJ or Pretty Woman at the Eccles on night one, and Plan B’s Balthazar on night two. Stay at the newly renovated Hotel Monaco. Make dinner reservations at the Monaco’s Bambara, led by new chef Patrick LeBeau or head over to the funky, speakeasy-esque The Rest. Spend the day in-between shows soaking up downtown’s magical wintertime vibe by ice skating on Gallivan Center Ice Rink, going to the top of the Hyatt Regency for Cocktails & Curling, sipping an expertly made cappuccino at Three Pines Coffee or having afternoon tea at The Rose Establishment. For a post-show aperitif, we recommend a craft cocktail at Post Office Place or a round of Space Invaders and a draft beer at Quarters Arcade. —Melissa Fields
Our 2023 Holiday Gift Guide is here! Discover unique and special gifts as well as solutions for your holiday gathering from Salt Lake Magazine’s partners in finding that perfect gift for everyone on your list.
Minky Couture
Visit their website or any location to receive 45% off use code: SLC45
WB’s Eatery
Non-alcoholic cocktail kits by WB’s Eatery include a non-alcoholic spirit and a mixer or de-alcoholized wine so you can mindfully recreate. All kits are gift wrapped and shipped nationwide.
455 25th Street, Ogden | wbseatery.com
385-244-1471 |@wbseatery
Amy Boutique
The Lollia Wish line is rich and comforting with a vanilla and jasmine scent, it creates a delicious and soothing experience! Angels in Our Midst includes beautiful artwork and encouraging, hopeful stories by renowned artist Anne H. Neilson and makes for a gorgeous coffee table book for anyone!
4670 S. Holladay Village Plaza, Holladay | shopamyboutique.com
801-938-9241 |@amyboutiqueutah
Adib’s Rug Gallery
Looking for that special treasured gift for your special someone? Stop in and take a look at our amazing room of treasures that are sure to make even the most discerning of collectors shout with “Joy to the World!” Specializing in hand-knotted rugs is our focus, making your entire home a treasured experience is our pleasure.
3092 S. Highland Dr., Millcreek | adibs.com
801-484-6364 |@adibs.rug.gallery
Anthony’s Fine Art & Antiques
Discover distinctive and memorable holiday gifts this season at Anthony’s, your premier source for early Utah art, original paintings, sculptures, and works on paper by renowned European and American artists. Located in Salt Lake City, our 25,000 square-foot gallery features not only beautiful antique furniture and rare decorative arts but also stunning jewelry selections.
401 E. 200 South, Salt Lake City | anthonysfineart.com
801-328-2231 |@anthonysfineart
Aqua Terra Steak + Sushi
Gift a curated dining experience at Aqua Terra Steak + Sushi! The new restaurant showcases premium steaks, wild game, sushi, seafood, cocktails, wine, and more in an alluring yet approachable atmosphere.
50 S. Main St., Ste 168, Salt Lake City | aquaterrasteak.com
385-261-2244 |@aquaterrasteaksushi
Kings Peak Coffee Roasters
Share the gift of locally roasted coffee with your friends and family. Kings Peak Coffee offers coffee club subscriptions (the gift that keeps on giving) as well as gift cards to make your holiday shopping a breeze. Our goal is to build meaningful relationships with our farmers and always ethically and consciously source our coffees. From light roast to dark roast and single origins to blends we offer something for everyone. Come visit our shop or order online.
412 S. 700 West, Salt Lake City | kingspeakcoffee.com
385-267-1890 |@kingspeakcoffeeroasters
OC Tanner Jewelers
Otto Huggie Earrings – $980
Tarot Baguette Ring – $3,100
Mini Sole Sun Necklace – $1,200
Mini Bezel Crescent Earrings – $2,400
All in 18K yellow gold with diamonds, pink sapphires, and emeralds.
15 S. State Street, Salt Lake City |
801-532-3222
416 Main Street, Park City | 435-940-9470
octannerjewelers.com |@octannerjewelers
Red Butte Garden
Delight the garden enthusiast in your life with botanic-inspired gifts from the Red Butte Garden Gift Shop! You’ll find one-of-a-kind fine jewelry, designer bags and scarves, sun hats, books, note cards, fairy garden supplies, wind chimes, seasonal gifts, and indoor/outdoor home and holiday decor. Join us for our Annual Gift Shop Holiday Sale on Dec. 2 and 3.
300 Wakara Way, Salt Lake City | redbuttegarden.org
810-585-0556 |@redbuttegarden
Sugar House Distillery
Sugar House Distillery, situated in Salt Lake City, stands celebrated for its grain-to-glass artistry. Our esteemed spirits—Vodka, Rum, Malt, Rye, and Bourbon Whiskey—crafted from local grains, undergo meticulous distillation and bottling. Additionally, be sure to experience our expertly crafted canned cocktails.
2212 S. W Temple St. #14, South Salt Lake | 801-726-0403
sugarhousedistillery.net |@shdistillery
Wine Country Inn Grande River Vineyards
SANTÉ! SALUD! PROST! CHEERS! SLÁINTE! SKÅL! CHIN-CHIN!
No matter how you say it, all of life’s magical moments deserve a toast. Celebrate with Santé! Traditional Methode Chamenoise Sparkling Wine from Grande River Vineyards.
777 Grande River Dr., Palisade, Colo. | 970-464-5777
787 Grande River Dr., Palisade, Colo. | 970-464-5867
Coloradowinecountryinn.com | granderivervineyards.com
@coloradowinecountryinn | @granderivervineyards
Simplicity Spirits Co.
Sip, savor, and embark on a spirited local distillery adventure at Simplicity Spirits Co.! Explore distillation, relish craft spirits and canned cocktails, and toast to unforgettable holiday memories and cheer!
335 W. 1830 South Ste. C, Salt Lake City | drinksimplicity.com
801-210-0868 |@drinksimplicity
Give the Gift of Salt Lake magazine!
Enter discount code HOL23BOGO at checkout to subscribe or call toll-free 877-553-5363
Veteran cross-country skiers know, making skate or classic laps along an expertly groomed track can be one of winter’s greatest pleasures. It’s a fantastic workout, a great way to get out into nature during the winter and—no offense to Utah’s mountain resorts—much easier on your wallet than alpine skiing. Think you might be interested in giving this all-ages sport a go? Following are a few ways both newbies and experienced Nordic skiers can prep for the coming skinny-skiing season.
Getting Fit
“In cross-country skiing, and almost every other sport, the core is super important,” says Laurie Humbert, a member of the 1994 U.S. Biathlon team, Nordic ski coach and co-lead of The Utah Nordic Alliance’s (TUNA) adult dryland training sessions. “The action of all the distal muscles (muscles in your limbs) originate from your core.” And by core, Humbert is talking about more than your abs. “The core runs from the bottom of your neck to your hips, front and back.”
Specific exercises Humbert recommends to strengthen your midsection include…
Planks—sustaining the top of a
pushup position. Try adding leg circles and doing side planks as well.
Pilates 100s—lifting your shoulders
and legs off the ground while
moving your arms up and down
with your breath.
Super-mans—lifting and holding
your arms and legs off the ground
from a prone position.
Bridge poses—using your feet to
lift your lower body off the ground
while lying on your back.
Though cross-country skiing is a practice in simultaneous arm-and-leg action, most of the activity’s power comes from the legs. Get your lower half in ski-shape by doing…
Lunges and walking lunges—
to both strengthen the quads and open the hip flexors.
Lateral exercises—like side lunges
and side shuffles.
Ski bounding—energetic, continuous leaping up a grassy hill, with or without ski poles.
In addition to leading fall dryland sessions, Humbert stays fit throughout the winter by leading weekly on-snow workouts at Mountain Dell. Visit utahnordic.org for details and to register.
Northern Utah Nordic Centers
- Big Mountain Pass Road (S.R. 65), Parley’s Canyon, 5 km groomed two to here times per week by TUNA, free admission, no dogs, utahnordic.org/sr-65.
- Jeremy Ranch Nordic Center, Park City, rentals and private lessons, day pass required, no dogs, thejeremy.com/nordic.
- Mountain Dell, Parley’s Canyon, 10 km groomed daily by TUNA, pay for a day pass at the fee post or via Venmo or Paypal, no dogs, utahnordic.org.
- North Fork Park, Weber County, 20 to 30 km of grooming for classic and skate skiing, snowshoeing and fat biking by Ogden Nordic, lessons, day pas required, leashed dogs allowed, ogdennordic.com.
- Round Valley, Park City, 25 km of multiuse track, open to skiers, snowbikes, hikers, and off-leash dogs, free admission, mountaintrails.org.
- Solitude Mountain Resort Nordic Center, 20 km groomed track, lessons, rentals, full-day or half-day pass required, no dogs, solitudemountain.com.
- Soldier Hollow Nordic Center, Midway, 30 km groomed track, lessons, rentals, biathlon programs, no dogs, utaholympiclegacy.org.
- Spruces Campground, in Big Cottonwood Canyon, 5 km track groomed several times per week by the U.S. Forest Service, free admission, no dogs.
- Sundance Resort Nordic Center, Provo Canyon, 15 km of grooming, rentals and lessons, full-day or half-day pass required, no dogs, sundanceresort.com.
- White Pine Touring Nordic Center, Park City, more than 15 km of groomed loops, rentals, lessons, kid-trailer rentals, full day or after-3 p.m. pass required, no dogs, whitepinetouring.com
Gearing Up
Functional, cool-looking gear and duds for hitting the track.
Leki PRC 650 ski poles. These sturdy-but-light carbon poles feature The Nordic Shark, a grip/strap system with quick-release pole straps allowing quick detachment from your poles to answer a phone call, pick up after your dog, or high-five your buddy after climbing a slope.
Smith Bobcat sunglasses. Google-like coverage with the airflow and light weight of sunglasses is what you’ll get with these stylish shades. Each pair comes with a dark lens for bluebird days and a clear one for when it’s not so sunny.
Swix Dynamic pants. Since cross-country skiing is such a cardiovascular-heavy sport, breathability is key in clothing. These pants have breathable, wind-proof and water-resistant front panels; comfortable, multi-directional stretch; and zippered leg openings, making them easy to get in and out of.
Colorful, tart and a seasonal must-have, cranberries are the perfect complement to holiday menus. Roast turkey, duck and goose all benefit from the mouth-puckering acidity of cranberries. But it’s time to give them a tasty twist. These easy-to-make variations on the classic sauce will have you and your guests asking for more. (P.S. Think beyond Thanksgiving sides. Whole raw cranberries freeze beautifully for a month, so try later with duck, rack of lamb, or grilled chicken and jack cheese.)
Put a Spin on Cranberry Sauce
THE BASIC CRANBERRY SAUCE
(Makes about 2 1/2 cups)
- 1 cup water
- ¾ cup sugar
- 1 12-oz. package of cranberries
Bring sugar and water to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add cranberries, bring back to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes or until berries start to burst. Cool.
1) Cranberry-Apple Sauce
Substitute the juice of half an orange for the 4 Tbsp. water. Zest the orange and finely dice. Chop 1 tart apple into cranberry-sized pieces and add the apple and zest to sugar water with the cranberries. Proceed with the basic recipe. Season with ground cinnamon to taste after removing sauce from the heat. Garnish with apple fan.
2) Spiced Cranberry Sauce
Add to basic sauce after removing from the heat:
½ tsp. ground cinnamon
1∕8 tsp. ground allspice
1∕8 tsp. ground cloves
1∕8 tsp. ground nutmeg
1 ½ tsp. grated, peeled
fresh ginger
Garnish with crystallized ginger.
3) Chili Cranberry Sauce
Substitute 1/4 cup white wine for 1/4 cup of the water. Seed and chop a ripe, mild chili pepper (an Anaheim or poblano; or substitute 1/2 ripe red bell pepper and 1/2 ripe jalapeño pepper) and add to water with the berries. Proceed with basic recipe. Garnish with fresh red pepper.
4) Cranberry-Port Sauce
Skip the water. Cook cranberries, 3/4 cup sugar, 3/4 cup orange juice and 2 Tbsp. grated orange rind together until just a few berries burst. Add 1/2 cup ruby port and cook another 2-3 minutes, until most of the berries have burst. Garnish with orange rind.
Many of us have memories of perfectly can-shaped cranberry jelly on the holiday table. That’s great, but if you’re looking for a way to jazz the jelly up a bit, here are a few ideas:
- Serve the jelly in slices.
- Add texture by sprinkling the jelly slices with chipped, toasted pecans.
- Chill the jelly thoroughly, slice and shape with small cookie cutters.
- Mash the jelly so that it resembles jam and garnish with orange zest.
KICK THE CAN
Many of us have memories of perfectly can-shaped cranberry jelly on the holiday table. That’s great, but if you’re looking for a way to jazz the jelly up a bit, here are a few ideas:
- Serve the jelly in slices.
- Add texture by sprinkling the jelly slices with chipped, toasted pecans.
- Chill the jelly thoroughly, slice and shape with small cookie cutters.
- Mash the jelly so that it resembles jam and garnish with orange zest.
Four Twists on Mashed Potatoes
Basic Mashed Potatoes
Serves 6
- 2 lbs. potatoes
- 1 tsp. salt
- 1 cup milk or half-and-half
- 6 Tbsp. butter
- 1 egg
- salt and pepper
Peel and quarter potatoes. Put them in a large pot with enough cold water to cover them. Add salt and bring water to a boil. Lower heat to medium and simmer potatoes until they are tender when pierced with a fork (15-20 minutes). Drain the potatoes, add the butter and mash with a ricer or electric mixer. Add the egg and beat it into the potatoes with a wooden spoon. Add milk or cream and continue to mash until fluffy.
Roasted Tomato Potatoes
Fold 3 oven-roasted tomatoes, coarsely chopped, into hot mashed potatoes.
Blue Potatoes
Fold ½ cup crumbled blue cheese into hot potatoes. Top each serving with bacon bits.
Pakora Potatoes
Fold 1 tsp. Turmeric, ½ tsp. curry and 1 cup of frozen peas into hot mashed potatoes.
Pesto Potatoes
Fold ½ cup basil pesto into hot mashed potatoes. Garnish with toasted pine nuts.
Add-ons and Stir-ins for Cornbread
Jalapeno + Scallions + Cheese
Mince 3 seeded jalapenos. Grate 6 oz. sharp cheddar cheese. Slice scallions to make 1/3 cup . Stir all ingredients into the batter at the end. Sprinkle with cotija cheese crumbles when baked.
Lemon + Blueberry
Add 1/4 cup sugar to the batter. Zest one lemon. Gently stir 1 cup blueberries with 1 tsp. flour, add lemon zest and berries to the batter. Sprinkle the batter lightly with sugar and bake.
Cranberries + Pecans
Stir 1 cup chopped cranberries with 1 tsp. flour. Chop 1/2 cup pecans and fold berries and nuts into the batter after mixing wet and dry ingredients.
Caramelized Onion
Slice one medium onion. Melt 3 Tbsp. butter in an iron skillet and arrange the onion slices in the pan. Cook slowly over medium-low heat until the onions brown. Pour in batter and bake. Invert to serve.
Tips:
-Preheat your oven and your skillet—grease the skillet and put it in the oven while you mix the batter.
-Use stoneground meal for better flavor and texture.
Mary’s Fave Cornbread Recipe
- 2 cups stoneground cornmeal
- 1 tsp. salt
- 2 tsps. baking powder
- 1/2 tsp baking soda
- 1 cup buttermilk
- 2 eggs
- 1 cup creamed corn
- 2 Tbsp. butter
Preheat oven to 425 and place a 10” skillet in the oven. Combine the buttermilk, eggs and creamed corn. Combine the dry ingredients and add to the egg mixture. Stir to combine. If the batter is too thick, add a bit more buttermilk. Put the butter in the hot pan and tilt it to coat evenly. Pour in the batter and bake until the top springs back to the touch—about 25 minutes.
When you’re ready for dessert, check out this delectable Apple Pudding Cake recipe from cook and author Chef Tara Teaspoon.
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“I’m 26, I’m Single, I’m a schoolteacher, and that’s the bottom of the pit.” The line, spoken by actor Katharine Ross as Etta Place in the 1969 film Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, stood out. After all, I too am a 26-year-old unmarried woman and I cringed at the line. Sure. That might have been true for many women on the frontier in the 1890s. But it wasn’t just dismissiveness, it was the overt neglect by screenwriter William Goldman to develop Etta’s character at all. (Goldman won an Oscar for the script, BTW.) Goldman and the producers had spent eight years researching the origins of Butch and Sundance, tracking down childhood homes and first-hand accounts so they could tell the story. So what of Etta Place? If she was indeed a trusted member of The Wild Bunch and an accomplice to Sundance and Butch during their escape to South America, as the film depicts, surely she was more than a doe-eyed love interest. I wanted to learn more about this woman. I wanted to know: How did this school teacher become one of only five women in The Wild Bunch? What led her to a life on the run? Unlike Goldman, I wanted to find the real Etta Place.
Despite Etta’s noteworthy role in the bandit group, her life before is obscure. Only one known photo of her remains, taken by the famous portraitist De Young in 1901 after her wedding to Harry Longabaugh in New York.
Ms. Place: She was born around 1878 in either Castle Gate or Price here in Utah, but other accounts place her birth in Texas or Pennsylvania. She was well-spoken, arrestingly beautiful and may have been educated on the East Coast. Skilled on horseback and an even better shot with a rifle, historians believe she first joined The Wild Bunch at their Hole-in-the-Wall hideout around 1896. And from the De Young portrait we know she was married to Sundance around 1900. After that photo was taken Sundance, Etta and Butch boarded the SS Herminius in New York bound for Argentina under the names Mr. and Mrs. Harry Place and James Ryan, according to the ship’s 1901 registry.
How Etta came to meet two of the Wild West’s most infamous outlaws remains a mystery, as does her fate after fleeing to South America. Throughout my hunt for the truth, three central theories about her origin emerged.
Theory No. 1: The Calculating Courtesan
Etta might’ve first encountered Sundance Kid and the Wild Bunch gang during their many (many) visits to Texan bordellos. High-class ladies of the night worked at Fannie Porter’s brothel in San Antonio, where it’s possible Etta Place took up residence as a young woman. Porter offered her girls’ hospitality to high-paying customers, including outlaws flush with ill-gotten cash. Fannie Porter’s was a rendezvous for The Hole-in-the-Wall gang after fleeing the scene of various train robberies and stick-ups.
Etta married Sundance in 1900 and joined The Wild Bunch in their escapades, assisting them with getaway horses and posing as a distraction. Although no marriage license exists, a Pinkerton Agency memorandum from July 29, 1902 states Mrs. Place “is said to be [Sundance’s] wife and to be from Texas.” The Pinkerton Agency, a private security force paid by the railroads to protect trains from robbers and hunt outlaws, was always one step behind the outlaws. After getting ahold of Sundance and Etta’s 1901 De Young portrait in New York, agent William A. Pinkerton complained in a letter to his brother “It shows how daring these men are, and while you are looking for them in the wilderness and mountains they are in the middle of society.”
Although it’s unclear if Etta was truly a high-priced prostitute, she almost certainly was not a schoolteacher. This piece of revisionism as depicted by the film, can be attributed to screenwriter Goldman who didn’t want to portray his ingenue as a prostitute. “To me, she had to be a schoolteacher,” Goldman recalls in his book Adventures in the Screen Trade. And so our Etta went from soiled dove to eye-batting school teacher on the silver screen.
Theory No. 2: The Noblewoman
Accounts depict her as a woman of class and education. So it’s not far-fetched to believe that Etta might’ve come from a well-off family. Biographer Ed Kirby notes in his book Rise and Fall of the Sundance Kid that Etta was the daughter of George Capel, the son of the sixth Earl of Sussex. (The surname “Capel” just so happens to be an anagram of “Place,” coincidence?) Kirby believed Etta’s mother was actress Jane Place, who happened to be a sister to Anne G. Place Longabaugh—none other than the Sundance Kid’s mother. Was Etta actually related to Sundance? An article from a Sept. 29, 1991 issue of St. George newspaper The Daily Spectrum corroborates the theory, writing “Etta Place was in fact, Sundance’s cousin, not his lover as popularized in the movie.”
Theory No. 3: The Rancher Turned Rustler
The most popular theory, supported by timeline comparisons, lifestyle similarities and photo analysis posits that Etta Place may have actually been Ann Bassett, another bold frontier woman who lived during the late 19th century. Members of the Outlaw Trail History Association have been chasing this theory for some time, particularly researcher Doris Karren Burton.
In her book, Queen Ann Bassett (Alias Etta Place), Burton notes similarities between the two women. Bassett, also born in 1878, was raised by cattle ranchers in Brown’s Park (on the Northwest border of Utah and Colorado). Citing the 1962 book Where the Old West Stayed Young by John Rolfe Burroughs, Burton describes Ann as an actress, “She could play the role of a cultured young gentlewomen; or she could be a perfect little hell-cat. She was spirited and high-strung, and a tempestuous daredevil.”
Life on the ranch was hard, and hostile competition among Cattle Barons necessitated the Bassett sisters take up shooting and horsemanship. During this lawless time, the family often turned to illicit methods in order to protect their land. The sisters became cattle rustlers (cattle thieves) who formed alliances with outlaws laying low in the area, including Butch Cassidy himself. Burton believed the sisters formed close, perhaps even romantic, relationships with the Wild Bunch members. “Ann was in love with Butch Cassidy,” she writes. Although she quickly turned her attention to Sundance, “Ann Bassett soon tired of one man,” says Burton. “And Sundance liked the women.” Eventually, Ann is chased out of Brown’s Park for rustling and travels to Texas in February of 1901. In 1902, she returned to her family home, citing her time away as traveling in South America. Hmm.
In addition to their penchant for mischief, educational background and notable event timelines, the two women also share striking physical resemblance. Burton asked Dr. Thomas G. Kyle of Los Alamos National Laboratory to compare Etta’s De Young portrait and a verified image of Ann using NASA’s facial recognition technology.
The finding reported the two images were likely the same person, with the odds being 5,000 to one. Burton concludes “The 1-5000 chance is based only on the photo analysis, and greatly increases adding the fact Etta and Ann were in the same areas at the same time and knew the same people.”
So, mystery solved? Nothing involving women and history is ever so simple. What seems like conclusive evidence is challenged by reports of Ann’s later life. In which she stood trial for cattle rustling during the same period Etta would’ve been in South America. Ann settled in the Southwestern Utah town of Leeds until her death in 1956, not once confirming her alleged double life as Etta Place.
What of Etta’s Fate?
What happened to Etta once she left for South America with Butch and Sundance is as much a mystery as her origin. Between March 1901 and June 1904, Etta might’ve made several visits back to the United States to visit family and receive medical treatment. The Pinkertons even traced Etta and Sundance to the World’s Fair in 1904. Researcher Doris Burton claims Etta visited Denver in 1904 for appendicitis treatment, other historians believe she faked her own death and returned to Fort Worth under the name Eunice Gray. Another theory purports that Etta left Butch and Sundance in South America and traveled to Paraguay where she married famous boxing promoter Tex Ricar. Other historians assume Etta was accompanied by Sundance from Chile to San Francisco in 1905 and remained there while he returned to South America.
Etta Place remains the true mystery in the otherwise well-researched history of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, an ethereal and elusive figure. The Wild Bunch might’ve intentionally obscured her identity, but I suspect this is just another case of history giving little attention to women. One thing is sure. She was a damn good criminal. As Robert Redford’s Sundance says, “No one expects a woman.”
Meet Four More Outlaw Ladies of Note
Laura Bullion aka ‘Rose of the Wild Bunch’
Wanted For: Bank Robbery, Train Robbery and Forgery
Born to a Texan train robber, Laura Bullion became acquainted with outlaws William Carver and Ben Kilpatrick at the age of 13. After working on and off at Fannie Porter’s brothel, a popular hideaway for the Wild Bunch and other Western outlaws, Bullion made her way to Utah with Carver where she met Cassidy and the others. Known to sell stolen goods, disguise herself as a man during robberies, and provide the outlaws with a steady supply of horses, Bullion quickly caught the attention of detectives and national media. In 1901 Bullion was found in possession of $8,500 in unsigned stolen banknotes and was arrested for forgery and robbery. After her sentence, Bullion would go on to live a civilian life in Memphis under the alias Freda Bullion Lincoln
Fannie Porter
Wanted For: Harboring Criminals and Vagrancy
Madam Fannie Porter ran a high-end ‘boarding house’ in San Antonio in the late 1800s. The luxurious bordello became a popular hideout for Butch Cassidy and the rest of the Wild Bunch and is theorized to be the place that Sundance Kid met Etta Place, who may have been working as a prostitute for Porter. Although she was well connected and respected, Porter was arrested briefly in 1880 for vagrancy (read: prostitution). Her boarding house remained a pitstop for outlaws on the run, and its rumored she threw Sundance and Butch one last going away party before the outlaws fled the country.
The Basset Sisters Ann and Josie
Wanted For: Cattle Rustling, Assisting Outlaws and Suspected Mariticide
Ann and Josie Bassett became respected troublemakers for defending their homestead ranch in Brown’s Park against cattle barons (think Kevin Costner’s Yellowstone). Capable frontier women, the sisters also received formal education on the East Coast and were known for their silver tongues and striking good looks. The sisters formed close relationships with famed gunslingers, including Butch Cassidy who Ann dated at 15. Josie would go on to date Wild Bunch member Elzy Lay, and the sisters were two of only five women to know the location of the gang’s hideout, Robber’s Roost. Ann and Josie both lived into their 70s, Josie married five times with one husband suspected of having died of poisoning. Josie also claimed Cassidy visited her in 1930 and lived in Utah until his death in the late 70s. None of her claims have ever been corroborated.
Stops and Sights on the Outlaw Trail
Stop #1 Robber’s Roost
A hard-to-find desert hideaway, Robber’s Roost lives up to its elusive legend. To find the hole-in-the-wall, make your way to Hanksville near Capitol Reef. Head north on S.R. 24 for 16 miles and keep an eye out for a brown sign for Hans Flat Ranger Station, then take a right. All that remains of the rugged refuge is a crumbling stone fireplace and an underlying tone of mischief.
If You Go… Bring plenty of water and some emergency supplies, there aren’t any Wild Bunch women to offer supplies and fresh horses should your life of crime lead you astray.
Stop #2 The Cassidy Trail
Beneath courtly red rock cliffs and otherworldly hoodoos lies a trail frequented by both well-meaning hikers and wanted criminals. The Cassidy Trail winds through Red Canyon inside the Dixie National Forest and was a popular route for Butch to evade the law and pursuing Pinkertons. The trail was also a major location for the 1969 movie Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.
If You Go… Cassidy Trail starts at Red Canyon trailhead in Red Canyon, look for a discreet parking lot at the first left after passing the visitor center.
Stop #3 Brown’s Park
An isolated valley along the Utah and Colorado border, Brown’s Park has been home to fur trappers, cattle rustlers, cowboys and outlaws since the 1800s. Its remote location and protection from harsh weather made it a frequent pitstop to Butch Cassidy, Sundance Kid, and the Basset Sisters. Referred to as a place where “The Old West Stayed Young,” Brown’s Park has become a ritzy outdoor destination.
If You Go… There’s lots to do inside Brown’s Park, but if you just have a day or
are passing through, take the Brown’s Park Scenic Backway. Traveling through
Diamond Mountain, into Brown’s Park and crossing the Green River, the 2-hour drive will give you a peek into what life on the trail looked like for Cassidy and
his Wild Bunch.
The legend of Etta Place has inspired historians and Western enthusiasts everywhere, including a couple in Torrey who named their cidery after the outlaw queen herself. As the first and only modern booze manufacturer in Wayne County, Etta Cidery is keeping the spirit of Torrey’s bandit background alive and well.
Ann and Robert Torrence came to Southern Utah in 1993, and after discovering their new land came with irrigation rights, they wasted no time laying roots. “I never do anything in small numbers,” says Ann. “I started planting every apple varietal I could get my hands on, and everything worked.” Etta Place Cider’s orchards boast over 500 trees and 90 different apple varieties, almost all of which go towards their in-house hard cider production. With assistance from head cider maker Travis Nelson, the cidery now offers eight flavorful products, like Gingerbread Hard Cider and Rhubarb Peach Wine.
The Cidery sells most of its products directly to consumers via special ordering to 40 states, as well as local venues like Scion Cider and Lucky 13 Bar and Grill. And if you happen to find yourself in Capitol Reef, Ann and Robert offer tours and tastings year-round. The pair have also put in for a full-bar license, and are looking to expand a tap room once approved.
Apples aside, Ann remains fascinated with the lore of Etta Place, a woman who embodied both the rustic values of the Old West and a refined nature. “That tension between rustic and refined has informed a lot of decisions we’ve made with the cidery,” says Ann. “We consider her the OG outlaw in our area and we’re the OG cidery in Torrey.” As for the mystery of the outlaw queen, Anne likes to believe Etta made her way back to San Francisco in 1906 and lived out the rest of her days happy and healthy. “She made a clean getaway, she was the smart one after all.”
If You Go…
700 W. Utah Highway 24, Torrey,
ettaplacecider.com, @ettaplacecider
