Travel

Sedona is well known for its red rocks and mysticality, but there is much more to the charming Arizona town than buttes, yoga and crystals. In addition to its breathtaking scenery and pervasive spiritual culture, there are world-class resorts and a sophisticated culinary scene focused on food that is local and organic and nourishes the mind as much as the body. The jewelry and art in local shops and galleries echo millennia of Native American and Western history, and outdoor recreational opportunities are boundless. If you know where to look, vacationing in Sedona rewards you with sights, the supernatural and then some. 

Visit a Vortex

Even skeptics agree that something feels different in Sedona. Locals insist that the difference comes from vortexes. The town’s rock formations are believed to create swirling centers of concentrated energy that you can actually feel, and that are conducive to healing, meditation and self-exploration. Get the full vortex experience, complete with an expertly guided “cosmic energy shift,” through Sedona Mystical Tours (sedonamysticaltours.com). Or you can just choose a hike to one of many famous vortexes to experience the energy for yourself, including Cathedral Rock, Bell Rock, Boynton Canyon, and Airport Mesa. 

Board a Train

For a unique perspective on the area’s natural and cultural treasures, Verde Canyon Railroad offers daily vintage train tours through the scenic wilderness surrounding Sedona. You’ll pass ancient Native American cliff dwellings, historic mining sites and lots of nature. You may even glimpse a bald eagle or two (verdecanyonrr.com). 

Shop the Town 

Sedona’s highly strollable Main Street is lined with local shops surrounded by views of the town’s famous red rock buttes. Beyond the touristy trinket hubs, there are fine art galleries, clothing stores, eateries and, of course, rock shops selling crystals. Watch for bronze plaques with handprints or bootprints of the stars of the western movies filmed in the town and its surroundings. Nearby, Tlaquepaque (tlaq.com) is a picturesque shopping destination replicating a hacienda-style village, complete with flower-filled courtyards, splashy fountains and its own rustic chapel. An added bonus is its collection of dining spots and small stores selling mostly art, clothing, jewelry and home décor. 

Dine

Sedona has a thriving fine dining scene that includes one of the town’s coolest and most innovative restaurants Mariposa, a creation of Chef Lisa Dahl. This Latin-inspired grill is set on a bluff and offers amazing 360-degree views of the surrounding red rock bluffs (mariposasedona.com). Another option is Cress on Oak Creek, where tables overlook a rushing stream under rustling sycamore trees, and Chef Michael O’Dowd’s menu focuses on local, foraged ingredients presented with Italian influence (lauberge.com). For more casual dining, try the wood-fired pizza at Chef Dahl’s Pisa Lisa (pisalisa.com), or margaritas and lively Mexican food served in colorful digs at 89Agave (89agave.com). Or take out the tastiest tamales in town from casual Tamaliza Café (sedonatamaliza.com).

Travel the Wine Trail

The Verde Valley, located about twenty minutes outside of Sedona, is Arizona wine country. Surprised? This unlikely wine terroir is increasingly considered a wine region of note. One of the first wineries in the region, Page Spring Cellars overlooks Oak Creek and has beautiful grounds and vineyards to stroll, as well as a charming tasting room and bistro on site (pagespringscellars.com). In fact, the area offers more than two dozen wineries and tasting rooms to visit (vvwinetrail.com).

Revive at a Spa

Few spa destinations are associated with spiritual awakening like Sedona, where even the most mainstream spas offer unique “alternative” services. L’Apothecary Spa (lauberge.com), at L’Auberge de Sedona, offers resort guests signature services exploring the spiritual connections with nature, like “Feet in the Creek” and “Forest Bathing.” Enchantment Resort is home to the Mii Amo Spa (miiamo.com), particularly famous for its Crystal Grotto, a circular sauna designed around a crystal center where therapists burn sage to prompt enlightenment. For those seeking a day spa experience, Sedona’s New Day Spa (sedonanewdayspa.com) offers natural, desert-based body treatments and Native American-inspired spa rituals using organic indigenous products. 

Learn Some History

Sedona has many stories to share, and The Sedona Heritage Museum tells them—at least from 1876 to the present, focusing on the area’s development by its most recent settlers. This charming trip to the recent past is brief but worthwhile. You can cover the whole museum in about an hour (sedonamuseum.org).

Explore Native American Ruins

Within twenty minutes of Sedona are three places that visitors can visit to see how the area’s first, Native American inhabitants lived. The Palatki Ruins are filled with ancient cliff dwellings, pictographs and petroglyphs created by the Sinagua people between 500 and 1425 AD. The Sinagua also built the picture-perfect Montezuma Castle, one of the oldest, best-preserved cliff dwellings in the Southwest. At V-Bar-V Petroglyph Heritage Site, there are no structures—just a few (over 1,000) of the most well-preserved petroglyphs in Arizona. 

Stargaze

Sedona’s night sky seems so vast that it feels like the entire universe is directly above you. Take it all in with a telescope and an expert. With Evening Sky Tours, a Sedona astronomer will meet you about twenty minutes from uptown Sedona with a high-powered telescope and a textbook’s worth of knowledge to share as you view planets, stars, distant galaxies and even the International Space Station if its orbit permits (eveningskytours.com).

Jump into a Jeep

Off-roading is more fun when someone else is driving, especially when your driver is a professional familiar with every boulder, crevasse and canyon you’re traversing. Jeep tour companies are pervasive in Sedona, but the most popular (and most colorful) is Pink Jeep Tours, which offers over a dozen tours of area sites, from rugged buttes to tucked-away Native American ruins. Just be prepared for a little white-knuckling (pinkadventuretours.com).

Take a hike

Sedona, a destination treasured for its impressive red rock setting, is equally prized by outdoor lovers for the amazing hiking trails that traverse its scenic landscape. The area’s hikes offer a broad range of challenges, from easy walks and flat footpaths for beginners to steep scrambles and long-distance hauls for the more experienced. 

Devil’s Bridge Trail is, hands down, the most iconic (and social media-plagued) hike in Sedona, thanks largely to a photo opp at the end—a razor-thin plateau of rock that forms a dramatic bridge with a precipitous drop beneath. The four-mile round trip hike, from Dry Creek Vista Trailhead about six miles northwest of town, is moderate in intensity. There is little shade on this hike, but that doesn’t deter the crowds. Don’t count on unfettered access to the bridge—a crowd-enforced line often forms of those wanting to experience it one at a time for IG posts. 

Boynton Canyon Trail, which is nine miles west of town and attracts fewer hikers, tracks the gradual rise of its namesake canyon through low scrub, then thick pine woodland. The trail ends at the back of the scenic canyon, where a short climb leads to a magnificent view over the terrain you just hiked. Along the six-mile round-trip trail, there are two detours to make the hike even more memorable (taking both will add about a mile to your hike). Near the start, the clearly marked Boynton Vista Trail provides stunning red rock views. Another unmarked offshoot farther along leads to a cave and ancient cliff dwellings. Boynton Canyon is also the location of one of the four major Sedona vortexes and a sacred Native American site marked by brightly painted lodgepole totems. 

Snoopy Rock Trail, at the base of a natural landmark visible from Uptown Sedona across Oak Creek, provides a short loop just over two miles long that is ideal for families and beginners. Named for the popular Peanuts character that the red rocks above it are said to resemble, the trail is relatively flat and easy to walk. Be forewarned: It has limited shade and can be hot on sunny days.

West Fork, Oak Creek Canyon Trail, about ten miles north of Uptown Sedona, is a scenic shaded hike through the high, ancient curved walls of a pine-filled, red rock canyon carved by the creek the hike follows. Perfect for beginners, it also presents the ideal opportunity to tailor a hike to your schedule. The hike ends at a spot where the creek spans the canyon floor leaving no room to walk without wading. Because there’s no “destination,” you won’t miss anything if you decide to turn around earlier, whenever your timing requires. If you have them, hiking poles are useful to steady yourself on rocks and fallen trees as you traverse the dozen or so creek crossings the hike requires.

Cathedral Rock Trail satisfies recreational hikers looking for another iconic red rock experience. This three-and-a-half-mile, round-trip hike to the top of a famous Sedona landmark is just a few miles out of town. The trail is low intensity at the beginning and becomes gradually more difficult as it rises. Many hikers turn around when the trail becomes challenging, but the ninety-minute hike to the top is worth the effort for the views, particularly at sunrise or sunset. 

Trekking Tips 

With 3 million visitors every year, Sedona encourages all to engage kindly with the land and take the city’s Leave No Trace pledge (visitsedona.com). To help navigate to your chosen hike’s trailhead, consider using alltrails.com or the AllTrails app. Remember parking lots at most trails fill up early, so plan your day accordingly. Most also require a $5 Red Rock Pass, so secure yours in advance at recreation.gov. And always take a screenshot of the trail map at the start of your hike, before you lose your cellular service, to help navigate your return. 

Lodge in Luxury

It’s not just the destination that makes your vacation. Accommodations are also key. 

Located at the base of Boynton Canyon nine miles outside of Sedona, Enchantment Resort (enchantmentresort.com) and its celebrated sister property, Mii Amo spa (miiamo.com) comprise an expansive haven surrounded by towering red rock and pine-lined trails. The Southwest-style resort melds into its secluded setting with 218 rustic adobe casitas and luxury suites, most featuring patios and decks opening to breathtaking canyon views. Locally inspired dining options, elevated amenities and highly curated activities indulge guests, as does the Trail House, a recent addition where visitors go to learn about the local landscape and wildlife, as well as to join seasoned guides for a slew of memory-making adventures. 

“Tree-lodge” is how the in-town Amara Resort and Spa (amararesort.com) describes the aesthetic fashioned by its recent multimillion-dollar renovation delivering hip, nature-inspired style and comfort to its 100 spacious rooms and welcoming gathering spaces. A heated, infinity-edge pool anchors its large, creek-side courtyard featuring fire pits and spectacular views of Snoopy Rock. Inside, the lounge-like lobby and SaltRock Southwest Kitchen invite guests and visitors to relax between hikes, signature spa treatments and strolls through the eclectic shops and art galleries of nearby Uptown Sedona. 

Close to Uptown Sedona, Ambiente (ambientesedona.com) is the area’s uber-chic newcomer. The unique “landscape hotel” boasts 40 individual, cube-shaped, glass suites (called atriums) that are built on stilts above the desert landscape and strategically scattered across the site to harmonize with its natural topography. Moody, minimalist décors soothe guests while panoramic, floor-to-ceiling windows create the illusion of being in, rather than merely observing, the surrounding red rocks, running creeks and Coconino National Forest. A poolside restaurant, a three-room spa and posh amenities elevate the luxe experience and exclusivity of the adults-only resort.  

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When visiting Arizona, most people think of the Grand Canyon, Sedona, or the Hoover Dam. However, the tiny town of Flagstaff sits right smack dab in the middle of all three of these big attractions, and just happens to be a short seven hour drive from Salt Lake. Home to the famous Route 66, haunted tours, and the observatory that discovered Pluto, the city is known for its nighttime skies and what’s known as the seven wonders of Arizona.

The Stars

When first arriving in Flagstaff don’t be alarmed by the limited street lighting in the town at night. Flagstaff is the world’s first International Dark Sky Destination, and has strict regulations in order to limit the amount of light pollution produced. Because of this, the nighttime sky is as light as it would be if you were on a deserted island, so don’t forget to look up!

The Lowell Observatory, founded in 1894, sits on a peak looking over the city of Flagstaff. When visiting this National Historic Landmark, be sure to utilize its state-of-the-art telescopes to take guided journeys through the cosmos, learn the history behind the town of Flagstaff, and see the famous Lawrence Lowell telescope that discovered Pluto. The observatory is open during the day, but I recommend going at night to get the full experience of Flagstaff’s stars that shine just as bright as the moon.

Historic Downtown & Route 66

Route 66, also known as the Main Street of America or the Mother Road, is the historic highway that provided the first direct route across the country. The route is a symbol of American freedom that served as a beacon of hope and opportunity for people seeking a better life in the West. Route 66 is the heart of Flagstaff, and is located in the historic downtown district. While Route 66 is not technically a “Main Street,” it does play a similar role in the city’s transportation and cultural landscape. This area is filled with shops, restaurants, historic buildings, and haunted tours that harken back to the heyday of the Mother Road.  An experience that you can not miss!

Not only is Flagstaff known for its location on Route 66, it is also considered one of the most haunted cities in America. One of the most famous haunted locations in Flagstaff is the Hotel Monte Vista, which has a long history of paranormal activity. The hotel was built in 1926 and has hosted many famous guests over the years, including Clark Gable, John Wayne, and Bing Crosby. However, it is also said to be home to several ghosts, including a phantom bellboy who knocks on doors and disappears, a woman who fell to her death from a roof, and a bank robber who was killed in a shootout and is said to still roam the halls. If this haunted location is too spooky for you, there are multiple other locations you can visit, including the Riordan Mansion State Park, The Weatherford Hotel, The Orpheum Theater, and The Pioneer Museum. Check out the haunted tours that Flagstaff offers here! 

Where To Eat & Drink

If you’re looking for a bougie spot for date night, Flagstaff has no shortage of upscale culinary experiences. When you’re finished cruising down Route 66, it’s time to explore Flagstaff’s many foodie destinations. Atria, is a fine dining restaurant located in historic downtown, offers farm-fresh American cuisine and a variation of seafood platters. Don’t forget to try out their cocktails, especially their most popular one called “Far from East,” Japanese gin, strawberry infused campari, and vermouth. If their cocktails don’t catch your eye, their wine and dessert definitely will!

Diablo Burger, burgers, fries, and wine! If you’re looking for the perfect burger, this is where you’ll find it. With multiple different burgers to choose from including a vegetarian option loaded with jalapenos, green chiles, beets, raw onions, grilled onions, ancho grilled onions, sliced sweet pickles, and roasted garlic, you won’t be disappointed. Diablo Burgers is a family-friendly restaurant that also includes a kids menu.

Located on Route 66, Mother Road Brewing Company, is all about unique, in-house drafts! This brewery has pale ales, American lagers, and golden ales, with my favorite being the “Daily Driver,” a juicy pale ale.  If you’re a beer lover you have definitely tried one of their brews, so go and check out their home location here in Flagstaff.

Brix, a fine dining restaurant and wine bar, is perfect for a healthier option when eating out. With multiple different cocktails and beers to try, their wine is what really draws tourists in. Their annual Mother’s Day brunch is definitely the perfect place to go and celebrate with your loved ones!

Pizzicletta offers traditional neapolitan pizza. With red pizza sauce options as well as white, eating here will make you feel like you’re in Italy. Not too expensive and perfect if you’re just looking for some fresh gelato!

The Seven (Outdoorsy) Wonders

If you’re looking for some adventure, Flagstaff is also known for its seven must-see outdoor wonders. Choose from Coconino National Forest, Grand Canyon, Oak Creek Canyon, Walnut Canyon, Wupatki National Monument, Sunset Crater National Monument, and the San Francisco Peaks. All of these places offer rich outdoor hikes, mountain biking, scenic drives, and of course the most breathtaking views.

If you’re interested in hiking, the Coconino National Forest has numerous trails, ranging from easy to difficult, with views of the canyons and forests. The most popular trail is the Humphreys Peak Trail, it’s a more strenuous trail, but leads to the highest point in Arizona. Check out all their hiking or backpacking trails here!

If hiking just isn’t your thing, Oak Creek Canyon’s Scenic Drive will be perfect for you! This 14-mile drive between Flagstaff and Sedona offers stunning views of the red rock canyons, the creek, and the forest. There are also several pull outs along the drive for a picnic with a view or a photoshoot moment. 

This one’s for the mountain biking lovers! The San Francisco Peaks have several mountain biking trails, including the Schultz Creek Trail and the Arizona Trail. These trails are moderate to challenging and offer views of the alpine forests and the mountains. For more trails check out their website linked here!

Where To Stay

Although Flagstaff has multiple campsites and Airbnb’s to choose from, the city also has upscale lodging available. The High Country Motor Lodge Hotel offers a great location, beautiful views, is pet friendly, and is budget-friendly to boot. The Little America Hotel, the same hotel franchise home to Salt Lake, is a bit more expensive but is located right next to Arizona’s ski resort Snowbowl. The Hotel Monte Vista is right in the middle of historic downtown, relatively cheap, and has quite the historic and haunted background. Whatever type of lodging, activities, or eatery you’re looking for Flagstaff has it all!

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San Miguel de Allende has been voted the world’s best small city four of the past five years by Condé Nast Traveler readers, and it’s easy to understand why. This historic town in the central Mexican highlands boasts 16 authentic Mexican Baroque churches in an area of barely 10 square blocks. These tightly packed architectural masterpieces share the town’s quaint, meandering cobblestone streets with hundreds of shops and homes dressed in rich shades of amber and red. Brightly colored doors open to lush courtyards and elegant palacios built from the wealth of conquistador-era silver mining. Layered on top of this historic Spanish Colonial architecture is a hip, vibrant community that lures visitors who relish all there is to see and do—both historic and modern—in this charming getaway. 

Stroll the Centro Historico 

San Miguel’s historic center boasts an unusual mix of architectural styles from the 17th and 18th centuries, dominated by ornate Mexican baroque, with some buildings dating back nearly 500 years. Guided tours are plentiful, or you can explore on your own and linger at your favorite church, market, shop or restaurant without any pressure to move along. 

Take a Home and Garden Tour 

To experience some of the most beautiful private courtyard gardens and homes, join the weekly House and Garden Tour on Fridays at noon. The group departs from La Biblioteca de San Miguel de Allende, where you can also purchase tickets. Buy your tickets in advance.

Shop 

San Miguel is a treasure trove of small stores run by creative local proprietors. The town’s merchants specialize mostly in art, design, crafts and interiors, with a surprising degree of diversity and sophistication for such a small community. Among them is the Fisher Weisman Collection at Sollano 16, which offers dazzling lighting fixtures, furnishings and unique jewelry. Lovers of outdoor décor and hand-made ceramics flock to Trinitate, located in a former cloister and chapel of La Parroquia, the town’s picturesque main church. Camino Silvestre caters to nature lovers and is renowned for its beautiful blown-glass hummingbird feeders. 

Attend a Festival 

Residents of San Miguel brag that their hometown has more festivals than any other town in Mexico, and they may be right. Rarely a week goes by without some celebration of a patron saint or revolutionary hero, or another miscellaneous excuse for a street party, invariably with fireworks. One of the biggest is La Alborada in late September, which honors San Miguel’s patron Saint Michael with parades featuring mojigangas (huge papier-mâché puppets), conchero dancers, gauchos on horseback and xuchiles (tower-like offerings of flowers erected for the celebration). Before planning the dates of your trip, check online for the town’s scheduled celebrations. 

Visit Pre-Columbian Ruins 

Take a short cab ride to Canada de la Virgen, a unique archaeological complex of religious structures built by the Otomi Indians between 540 and 1000 A.D. Only small tours guided by the site’s archaeologists and employees are permitted, and climbing to the top of the site’s 15-meter high stone pyramid, which the Otomi designed as a giant celestial compass, is unforgettable.

Experience a Tequila or Mezcal Tasting 

Tequila and Mezcal are as diverse and complex as any wine, whiskey, or bourbon—and many deserve to be sipped, not shot. If you like tequila, book a private tasting at Casa Dragones’ chic, high-style tasting room. If you prefer mezcal, compare several different makers with a flight at La Mezcaleria (Correo #47-A, Colonia Centro). Or better yet, do both.

Take a Flight in a Hot Air Balloon 

One of the most memorable ways to view San Miguel and the surrounding countryside is from a hot air balloon at dawn. This unique experience is well worth arising before sunrise.

Take a Cooking Class

Study the bold flavors and rich history of regional Mexican favorites at the Sazón Cooking School after a colorful, bustling market tour with your teacher Chef Ruben Yanez Hernandez to select your ingredients. Housed in a magnificent 18th-century mansion turned luxury hotel, the teaching kitchen accommodates private groups of up to 12 people.

Dine 

San Miguel is truly one of Mexico’s culinary hotspots, with options ranging from traditional to ambitious, including lively cantinas (El Manantiel), patio spots (La Parada and The Restaurant), view-laden rooftops (La Posadita and Bistro Antonia), and hip, modern restaurants (Moxi and Aperi). Charming bakeries, laid-back coffee houses and fresh food stalls—mostly around the markets—provide quick and delicious alternatives.

Stay 

Hotel Rosewood, reminiscent of a Mexican hacienda, enjoys spectacular views of town and the iconic spires of the town’s main church. A notable spa, rooftop tapas bar, tequila bar and fine restaurant indulge guests and visitors.

Hotel Matilda, with its traditional Spanish Colonial exterior and a modern, minimalist interior, is a study in contrast. The hotel boasts a renowned spa and is located only three blocks from the town’s main square.

Casa Schuck, originally an 18th-century villa, was restored in 1969 to be a grand private residence once again. Its owners later transformed it into a 10-bedroom boutique hotel that retains its lovely architecture and intimate outdoor spaces only blocks from the town center.

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To say Maui packs a lot into a little more than 727 square miles is an understatement of irresponsible proportions. Because of its unique geography and infamous trade winds, Maui has multiple distinct microclimates to play in, which help define Maui’s diverse regions. The North Shore and West and Central Maui get a lot of love from tourists, but South Maui and the Upcountry stole our hearts. 

For the best view of the island, consider taking a road trip through Maui. We’ve compiled the best pitstops and excursions so you can sit back and enjoy the ride.

Roadtrip One: Upcountry on Kula Highway

Start—Paia
End—Ulupalakua

On the slopes of Haleakala, tour farms and ranches and peruse local art galleries and markets steeped in the history of Maui’s Paniolo (cowboy) culture. There will be plenty of fresh snacks along the way, finished with a flight of local wine. 

1. Paia Town

This historic town on Maui’s North Shore was once a booming plantation town during the height of Maui’s sugar cane industry. Today, Paia is a town of colorful storefronts, local art galleries and one-of-a-kind boutiques and restaurants. On your way out of town, tour the Haliimaile Pineapple Farm and distillery and grab some Maui Gold pineapple to take home. 

2. Makawao Town

Makawao is a thriving arts community that has kept its plantation roots intact. The combination of its paniolo heritage and its lively art scene makes for great pop-up markets to eclectic art galleries. The Hui Noeau Visual Arts Center hosts free exhibits and T. Komoda Store & Bakery has been serving cream puffs since 1916. 

3. Pukalani

Boasting spectacular views of two Maui coastlines, Pukalani has a laid-back, country feel. It is home to the Upcountry Farmers Market, which has a wide selection of local growers and producers. Visit one of Maui’s last true mom-and-pop establishments, the Pukalani Superette. 

4. Kula

Kula is in the heart of Maui’s Upcountry and in the middle of a culinary resurgence. Harvest your own veggies and have them made into a gourmet meal at Oo Farm, visit the one-man working protea and coffee farm, Shim Coffee Farm, play with the animals at Surfing Goat Dairy or tour the Kula Botanical Gardens.

5. Ulupalakua 

Blink and you’ll miss the small town of Keokea, but the old-time gas station, art gallery and country general store are worth a visit. Then continue down the road to the Ulupalakua Ranch Store & Grill (famous for their elk) and, finally, reward yourself with a flight of your new favorite wine at Maui Wine.

Roadtrip Two: Hana Highway

Start—Haiku
End—Kipahulu

Hike to waterfalls and through rain forests, sun on stunning black or red sand beaches and eat the best banana bread you’ve ever had. Do it on your own or hire a guide (or the middle option of downloading a guided tour app like GPSY). Spread it over two days or start early and try to do it all in one. Even though it’s only 50 miles or so, the one-lane bridges, tight turns and incredible views will slow you down. Be sure to stay on the main drag out of respect for the locals who don’t want to be a tourist attraction.

1. Haiku

You’re going to want coffee for this road trip, so start off with a cup of joe in Haiku at Jaws Country Store. From there, it’s not far to the Garden of Eden Arboretum or the Leilani Farm Sanctuary in Haiku to see the local flora and fauna up close.

2. Keanae Peninsula

While technically a slight detour from the famous Road to Hana, the ocean views from the Keanae Lookout will change your life, as will a loaf (or two) of fresh banana bread from Aunty Sandy’s Famous Banana Bread. In 1946, the entire community was almost wiped out by a hurricane and the only building left standing was the local church, which you can still see today.

3. Nahiku Marketplace

Another great place to stretch your legs (and take a potty break) is the Nahiku Marketplace—where you’ll find some outdoor dining. There’s coffee, smoothies and more tasty banana bread at the Nahiku Cafe and an open-air BBQ. Find locally made gifts at the Nahiku Gallery. Between the marketplace and Hana, you’ll find Coconut Glen’s, which people swear by, if you’re game for vegan coconut ice cream. 

4. Hana

Get a parking reservation in advance to swim and sunbathe on the beautiful black sand beach at Waianapanapa State Park. Or take a (slightly scary) little hike to find the more secluded red sand beach, Kaihalulu Beach. Explore the Hana Lava Tube or Wailua Falls and swimming hole. For souvenirs to commemorate the drive, try the Hasegawa General Store and Hana Ranch Store.

5. Kipahulu District (Haleakala National Park)

A final stretch of stunning rainforest and waterfalls will take you to the Kipahulu District entrance of Haleakala National Park and access the Pipiwai and Kuloa Point trails. The Kuloa Point Trail will take you on a short walk to the Hale Halawai, a reconstruction of a traditional Hawaiian meetinghouse, archeological sites and the Ohe’o Gulch. The Pools of ‘Ohe’o are a stunning series of tiered pools fed by a waterfall, sometimes called the “Seven Sacred Pools.”  

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Go Big on The Big Island

The Big Island truly lives up to its name (which is actually Hawai’i, while the entire state’s name is Hawaii, which feels like a practical joke to confuse Haoles). Anyway, it’s big. So it’s best to divide your time between its two distinct sides: Hilo Side (wet) and Kona Side (dry). 

Hilo Side

Hilo Bay, at the center of Hilo Town, is a good place to start your exploration of the main “city” on the wet side. From the Bay, it’s an easy walk to Liliuokalani Gardens and a stroll through Hilo’s Farmer Market to pick up picnic supplies. Richardson’s Beach Park offers a gentle put-in for snorkeling. From Hilo, drive to Volcanoes National Park for a chance to see the constant volcanic activity bubbling below the surface. 

Kona Side

Visit Pu’uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park (The Place of Refuge) a fascinating dose of early Hawaiian history established on the site of a sanctuary and sacred place of peace. 

Nearby is the snorkeling hot spot Kealakekua Bay and the Captain Cook Monument. You can access the monument by kayak or book a charter with Captain Zodiac Raft Tours and enjoy snorkeling in the bay near the monument. The eastern side of the island is home to its best sandy beaches. The most popular sandy beach on the east side is Hapuna Beach, be sure to plan for some sand and surf time here. One of the most unique ocean experiences in Hawaii is the opportunity to dive or snorkel with the pod of Manta Rays that live off the coast. Book a charter at the Kona Marina (book early, they are insanely popular). Kona Village is the main city on the Kona side. Explore shops, restaurants and bars on its main street. The Royal Hawaiian Hotel has a beautiful ocean-view bar and an excellent happy hour. 

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We take our time rolling up Haleakala Highway, the two-lane highway that scales Maui’s preeminent volcano of the same name. The reason for the deliberate pace is threefold—the unforgiving switchbacks enclosed scantily by the occasional guardrail, the dramatic rise in elevation (from sea level to 10,000 feet in a mere 37 miles) and the arresting views from the road. On our road trip through Maui, we coast along the highway to Haleakala Crater, there are two National Park Service visitor centers and a number of scenic lookout points, and I daresay we stopped at all of them. Facing makai (toward the ocean), the misty mountainside gives way to grassy farmland then relents to cities and sandy beaches and the endless expanse of the Pacific Ocean. Facing mauka (toward the mountain), the landscape becomes lunar-like just as it vanishes behind a halo of clouds. At the second visitor center, we shuck our breezy beachwear and change into warm pants, knit caps, jackets and gloves. 

At a 10,023-foot elevation, Haleakala Crater sits above the cloud layer. The craggy peak jutting out of white cotton clouds invokes images of the mythological Mount Olympus, the home of the gods. In Hawaiian mo‘olelo (stories), Haleakala is where the folk hero Maui snared the Sun and made him promise to travel the sky slower, lengthening the day. Haleakala means “house of the sun.” People in parkas flock to the summit like pilgrims at the end of every day and this trip is no exception. We do our best to get comfortable on the nature-provided seating of rough volcanic boulders and wait. Rustling accompanies the chattering teeth and excited conversations as people produce snacks from pockets and backpacks. We brought fresh banana bread from Kula but a nearby group of geniuses had thought to drive up a few pizzas and we made a silent vow to copy them next time. 

When the sun starts to set, there are no “oohs” or “awws.” All of the noise fades at once and everyone turns their faces west. The sun touches the clouds and they erupt in gold and turquoise, and the ground around the summit turns scarlet. The colors deepen in hue and contrast as the sun sinks behind the lip of the crater, forming a golden halo as it falls beyond the clouds, then is finally swallowed by the ocean. No one stirs until the last ray of light dies. Beyond the singularity of watching the sunset from atop a volcano on a speck of land in the middle of the ocean, the reverence of the assembly makes it something more akin to a spiritual experience. 

Where to Play

To say Maui packs a lot into a little more than 727 square miles is an understatement of irresponsible proportions. Because of its unique geography and infamous trade winds, Maui has multiple distinct microclimates to play in, which help define Maui’s diverse regions. The North Shore and West and Central Maui get a lot of love from tourists, but South Maui and the Upcountry stole our hearts. 

As stunning as the Haleakala sunset is, sunrise on the volcano is the more sought-after ticket. So much so that visitors have to battle it out online for the few available permits. The area is also unparalleled for stargazing. Outside of the popular solar and stellar spectator events, Haleakala National Park has two areas for visitors to explore. The Summit District has over 30 miles of hiking trails that range in difficulty from 10-minute walks to multi-day overnight trips. One of the most popular is the 11-mile alpine desert hike, Keonehe‘ehe‘e (Sliding Sands) Trail. The trail takes hikers across the crater and through an area unofficially called “Pele’s Paint Pot” for its colorful cinder. 

On the eastern side of Haleakala is the coastal Kipahulu District. Unlike the blustery weather of the summit, Kipahulu District is hot, humid and wet. One of the main draws is the Pipiwai Trail, a 4-mile hike that starts at the visitor center parking lot. Early in the hike, you’ll have to contort your way through a massive Banyan tree. It’s rumored to be the second largest Banyan on Maui (the largest is in Lahaina). The trail also winds through a thick bamboo forest, culminating in a view of its crown jewel, the 400-foot Waimoku Falls.

If seeing Haleakala National Park from the ground is beneath you (literally), zip lines dot the island for your consideration. Skyline Hawaii offers guided zipline tours of Haleakala and Eco-Adventures of surrounding Upcountry Maui. 

The Upcountry was born out of the local ranches and farms and entrenched in Hawaii’s paniolo (cowboy) culture. It might as well be a completely different world from the tourist-heavy coastal towns. Explore the local farmers’ markets like Kula Country Farms or take a tour of Maui Tea Farm.

If it’s the beach you’re after, head to South Maui. Kamaole Beach I (“Kam I,” 75 Alanui Ke’ali’i, Kihei), Kam II and Kam III in Kihei are lowkey and great for swimming as well as for attempting kayaking or paddleboarding. There are plenty of places to snag reasonable equipment rentals within walking distance to the beach, like Auntie Snorkel. If you’re feeling a little more adventurous, take a snorkeling tour of Molokini Crater, a crescent-shaped, partially submerged volcanic crater off the coast of South Maui. Boats head out there daily, like the Pride of Maui. If you’re feeling even more adventurous, head to South Maui’s Makena Beach State Park (4670 Makena Alanui, Kihei), commonly called “Big Beach.” The water here is crystal clear and great for a little light snorkeling. On the north end of Big Beach, there is a hidden trail to a sandy little cove called Little Beach. Little Beach is definitely not a very chill nude beach and you certainly did not hear it from us. 

Where to Eat

After a day on the water, Kihei offers many dining options within walking distance from the beach. The food truck game in Kihei is particularly strong, with two locations where they tend to congregate: Kihei Food Truck Park (1 Piikea Ave., Kihei) or Alahele Place near Kihei Marketplace on South Kihei Road. For an extra kick in the morning, check out Kraken Coffee’s truck or grab a bag of Maui coffee to take home from Lava Java Coffee Roasters of Maui. For lunch or dinner in Kihei, get in line at the open-air Paia Fish Market South Side. It’s the second location of the legendary original in Paia. The Blackened Sashimi is particularly good, but you really can’t go wrong. Ululani Shave Ice is the real deal for your Hawaii shave ice fix. 

If your journey is taking you to Upcountry, Grandma’s Coffee House has been roasting and blending Maui coffee since 1918. Ulupalakua Ranch Store & Grill serves up meat from their own ranch, which you can survey while you eat your meal picnic-style near the open-air grill. For farm-to-table, there’s Hali’imaile General Store and Restaurant Marlow, a pizza place where Chef Jeff Scheer sources ingredients from local farmers and ranchers and his own garden. No trip to Upcountry is complete without a stop at Maui Cookie Lady. Founder Mitzi Toro is known nationally for the creations from her island boutique bakery.

Where to Drink

You can’t beat the views or cocktails at Hawaii Sea Spirits Organic Farm and Distillery’s on-site Ocean Organic Vodka Cafe. The distillery offers regular tours that introduce visitors to the process of making vodka from ocean water, the growing and harvesting of sugarcane varieties, as well as how to use their spirits. Our tour guide Joe could have written a book on how to mix cocktails from Hawaii Sea Spirits. The lawn outside the cafe gets crowded in the late afternoon to watch the sunset with a tasty drink in hand. Maui Wine offers tastings daily. The owner of the ranch started the vineyard and winery back in the 70s with just one kind of grape. Nowadays, they cultivate six grape varietals and make to-die-for pineapple wines made from Maui Gold pineapple, of course. 

Back in South Maui, there’s no shortage of bars to get your drink on, but the Happy Hour menu at Maui Brewing Company is hard to beat. Between handcrafted beer, seltzers, sodas and cocktails, order a flight and a few shared plates, while dining al fresco. For the classic tiki bar experience, check out South Shore Tiki Lounge. The patio is perfect at night, and regular live music makes for impassioned sing-along opportunities.  

Where to Stay

Depending on your taste, you can spring for ocean views at a luxurious resort or rent a beachside condo in Kihei. Use your best judgment while perusing sites like airbnb.com and vrbo.com, as tourism officials warn that scams are not unheard of. For a relaxing stay in Upcountry, there’s Lumeria Maui Retreat, where you can enjoy yoga and meditation classes. It’s also worth looking into The Malama Hawaii Program. Malama translates to “care for.” In exchange for participating in volunteer opportunities, you could qualify for a discount or free night at a participating hotel. Hana-Maui Resort will give you your fourth night free if you volunteer with Pacific Whale Foundation. Condominium resort Castle Kamaole Sands, beachside in Kihei, offers a fifth night free for picking up beach litter. 

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Find more adventures in our 2022 Travel Series here!

Emerging from the gates of the Denver Airport, visitors are greeted by Blucifer—a towering cerulean horse, reared up on its haunches, mouth agape in an equine scream, staring down new arrivals with glowing red eyes. The 32-foot statue, formally titled “Mustang,” cuts a powerful figure against clear Colorado skies and elicits both fondness and tolerance from residents. But the reaction elicited from first-time visitors is more likely to be, “what the hell?”

“It’s weird. It’s very Denver,” one local explains to her friend, once they were aboard the A-Line commuter train to Denver’s Union Station and safely hidden from the penetrating gaze of Blucifer. Legends abound about Blucifer’s origins and intentions. The same is true for Denver International Airport itself. Some say the underground tunnels beneath the airport lead to the secret headquarters of the Illuminati and it was built by the Freemasons and New World Order. Officially, airport representatives have denied all of these conspiracy theories, but isn’t that exactly what an agent involved in a massive cover-up would say? 

If that’s all “very Denver,” then Denver is cool. Sure, SLC is closer to mountain resorts and our snow is the best there is, but once you get the jokes out of your system, you’ll find there’s so much to love about the Mile-High City that isn’t skiing. Denver offers a comfortingly familiar climate and eclectic culture that can surprise and delight even the most entrenched of Utahns. And, its proximity to home makes it the perfect destination for a quick holiday getaway without the pressure to cram too much into a single weekend. You can do Denver your way. 

Adventure No. 1—History and Mystery

If you saw Blucifer, fell in love, and then started scouring airport conspiracy theory message boards, there’s plenty more weird in Denver to keep you hooked. Head to the Cheesman Park neighborhood, grabbing a strong cup of joe at Russian coffee joint Dazbog on the way. Cheesman Park is home to the Denver Botanic Gardens, a welcome winter reprieve, and a stunning neoclassical colonnade, but the park’s tranquil trails belie a haunting history. Back in the 1800s, Cheesman Park was a cemetery. When the city converted it into a public park, the undertaker responsible for moving the bodies was accused of dismembering corpses so they could be placed in child-sized coffins (allegedly, he was paid per coffin) and fired before the job was done. Instead of hiring someone else, the city simply removed the remaining headstones, leaving an estimated 3,000 bodies buried under the park still today.

From Cheesman Park, dispel the chill from your bones with a beer, cocktail and tasty pub grub at the Capitol Hill neighborhood’s favorite bar, Wild Corgi Pub, where “Yappy Hour” is every day from open–7 p.m. Nearby, there’s another historical gem and home to one of Denver’s most famous residents: the Molly Brown House Museum. Margaret Brown didn’t receive the moniker “The Unsinkable Molly Brown” until after her death—a death which she did not meet 110 years ago aboard the RMS Titanic. Although memorably portrayed by Kathy Bates in the 1997 film, Brown was more indomitable in reality. Her Denver home has been lovingly restored by Historic Denver and is open to the public for tours. 

Set aside as many hours as you can for the psychedelic trip that is Meow Wolf Denver’s Convergence Station. This interactive, surreal, sci-fi art exhibit has an underlying narrative about converged worlds and deep lore and mysteries to explore. Spanning four stories, 70+ unique installations, rooms and portals, Convergence Station took three years and 300 creators to make. (Pro tip: pay a little extra for the QPass for an even more immersive experience.) Return to earth with a craft beer at Little Machine, or a unique Cinnamon Horchata Ale at Latinx-owned Raíces Brewing Co.

For dinner, we’re taking a jaunt to Denver’s Lower Highland (LoHi) neighborhood to Linger. The restaurant’s semi-macabre décor reminds patrons that it’s housed in a former mortuary. Start off with a cocktail and a shareable plate like the steamed bao buns. For a nightcap, head up the street to the intimate speakeasy Williams & Graham. If you didn’t make a reservation at W&G beforehand, the punk rock bar around the corner, Occidental welcomes all. 

Where to Stay: Patterson Historic Inn is in the heart of Capitol Hill. The renovation of the 130-year-old mansion turned B&B is the subject of the film The Castle Project, which documents the workers’ ghostly encounters. Rumors also abound about the unexplainable occurrences at the Victorian mansion Lumber Baron Inn & Garden. 

Adventure No.2—Treat Yourself (And a Few Select Others)

The A-Line from the Denver airport will take you to Union Station in Denver’s Lower Downtown (LoDo), where it’s a choose-your-own dining adventure, depending on your mood or the time of day: restaurants Stoic & Genuine, Ultreia and Mercantile offer cuisine from James Beard award-winning chefs. During the winter, your visit might be in time for Miracle at Union Station, a pop-up cocktail bar that unapologetically leans into the Christmas spirit. The holiday décor is ostentatious, coinciding with the Merry & Bright Lights strewn outside. 

Afterward, you can walk off your meal at the 1.25-mile-long 16th Street Mall. For some holiday shopping, the Dairy Block is a retail incubator for local high-end boutiques. And, because we all have at least one cowboy in our lives, the iconic Rockmount Ranch Wear shop is where the first snap-button cowboy shirt was invented. Also in LoDo, the Museum of Contemporary Art Denver hosts changing exhibitions throughout the year of modern painting and sculpture, and the gift shop sells unique gifts for art lovers or eclectic souvenirs for yourself. 

There’s more retail therapy to be had in the Cherry Creek North neighborhood. Start off with brunch at Urban Egg Eatery, where they use local ingredients from small producers whenever possible. Now ready to brave the holiday rush, head to Cherry Creek Shopping Center. While in the neighborhood, make sure to swing into Show of Hands. The local, female-owned art and gift gallery sells whimsical and vibrant creations that you won’t find anywhere else. Across the street, treat yourself to bottomless bellini brunch—who says you can’t have a second brunch?—at Quality Italian.

During the holiday season, Cherry Creek Holiday Market hosts 50 local makers selling their wares. If that’s to your liking, go full Santa’s elf at the Denver Christkindlmarket. Shop for handmade gifts in a replica European village decorated for the holidays. Indulge in Bavarian-style pretzels, fresh smoked salmon, Knödel, goulasch, Nürnberger sausages, and wash it down with Glühwein.

Elevated Rooftop Bar (249 Columbine St., Denver, 720-520-1474) hosts Après in the Clouds during the winter—a multiple course dinner, around the fire in a cozy cabana, complete with s’mores and spectacular views. Close out the day with a meticulously crafted cocktail at B&GC, a sleek basement bar hidden in an alley behind an unmarked door with an antique gold doorbell.

Where to Stay: After shopping, wind down at one of the yoga and barre classes at Halcyon. Halcyon’s Kitchen Counter invites guests to socialize during happy hour, daily, 3-6 p.m, and its Gear Garage has complimentary bicycles, scooters and seasonal equipment like sleds and snowshoes for guests to check out. For a downtown locale—and a familiar pampered treatment for SLC natives—the Kimpton Hotel Monaco Denver has newly renovated luxury accommodations, nightly wine hour from 5-6 p.m., pet-friendly rooms, and complimentary hotel bicycles to get around downtown.

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