Travel

Amtrak’s California Zephyr runs from Chicago to San Francisco with a stop in Salt Lake City, the eastbound train boards at “Oh-Dark-Thirty” (3:30 a.m.) which makes for a bleary, early morning at Salt Lake’s Central Station. Once on board, though, you can grab a nap as the train moves through Provo, Green River and Grand Junction, waking up in time to view the scenic stretch through Glenwood Canyon along the Colorado River before arriving at your destination: Glenwood Springs, Colo. Glenwood Springs is famous for its hot springs. Once a railroad and mining town, it became a destination for travelers to “take the waters.” Fittingly, the town’s center is the world’s largest hot springs pool, making Glenwood an ideal destination for a wintertime getaway. Enjoy this historic, walkable western town all decked out for the holiday season, with your choice of basecamp.

1. The Hotel Denver

During the early 1900s, the train was the heartbeat of Glenwood Springs. The train brought supplies, workers and tourists into town, who needed a place to stay. The Hotel Denver has been hosting visitors since 1915 and the classic three-story retains its classic charm but has evolved into a chic, modern boutique hotel. Its location, steps away from the train station, makes it an ideal base for exploring the town.

2. The Hotel Colorado

The Hotel was built in 1893 by Walter Devereux, a silver baron and one of the early settlers who saw the potential of the town’s main attraction, the hot springs. Devereux sought to attract the wealthy and elite to this grande dame of a hotel, which is a real name-dropper of a hotel. Its registries have logged many famous guests, notably President Theodore Roosevelt who visited the area on his many hunting excursions and would decamp to the Hotel, which would become a temporary White House during his stays. During the holidays, the Colorado is all decked out, with twinkling lights and a lobby stuffed with a menagerie of Christmas displays. Also, there are ghosts.

3. Glenwood Hot Springs Pool

Glenwood’s therapeutic spring waters—called Yampah, or literally “Big Medicine,” by Ute Native Americans—have been bubbling up from the earth’s core for millions of years. The Utes were the first known visitors to the mineral-rich hot springs that flowed along the banks of the Colorado River in Glenwood Canyon. Devereux bought the land around the natural springs and harnessed the 3.5 million gallons of naturally hot mineral water that rises from the source of the spring each day. The pool dominates the town’s center and is filled with soakers, basking in the warm water. You should be one.

4. Iron Mountain Hot Springs

The newest iteration of a hot springs destination that dates back to 1896, Iron Mountain is located on the banks of the Colorado River. Designed in the Scandinavian way, Iron Mountain has 16 pools dotting the site which range in temperatures from 98 to 108 degrees. Guests brave the winter chill between pools and hop around to find the perfect temperature. Iron Mountain also has an adults-only area and serves beer, wine and (in the winter) mulled wine.

5. Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park

Although coasters and more adventurous attractions at the park are closed in winter, the park’s main attraction, the Glenwood Caverns, remains open for tours. Descend into a subterranean world guided by a young enthusiastic collection of tour guides who point out geology, unique formations and share the cave’s history.  

Getting There

Glenwood Springs is about eight hours from Salt Lake City’s Central Station by train. And while it would certainly be faster to drive, what’s your hurry? The train ride is half the fun of a trip to Glenwood Springs, you can play games in the club car, relax in the observation deck and just enjoy the ride. amtrak.com

One Cool Thing: Doc Holliday’s Last Stand

John Henry Holliday (1851-1887), better known as Doc Holliday, was an American gambler, gunfighter and, oddly, a dentist. A close friend and associate of lawman Wyatt Earp, Holliday is best known for his role in the events leading up to and following the gunfight at the O.K. Corral in Tombstone, Ariz. Holliday was afflicted with tuberculosis and spent the few remaining years of his life in Glenwood Springs, where he hoped the healing waters would cure his ailment. He died of tuberculosis in his bed at the Hotel Glenwood, now the Hotel Denver, at age 36. One of the Hotel Denver’s eventual owners, Art Kendrick, got his start as a bellhop, where he recalls Doc Holliday as a “pretty good” tipper. His name is all over the town, including the Doc Holliday Saloon, filled with memorabilia dedicated to the famous gunslinger (and serving Rocky Mountain Oysters for the brave). You can also explore the Doc Holliday Collection, a small museum in the lower level of Bullock’s Western Store. 

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From Boise, take Highway 55 toward McCall. The Payette River Scenic Byway winds through the rugged mountains along the Payette River. This is an absolutely stacked outdoor road trip adventure in Idaho, with hot spring soaks and places to stay along the way to recover between watersports and hiking. 

Stop: Raft the Payette River

About 30 miles north of Boise, book a whitewater adventure on the Payette River at the Cascade Raft River Center (cascaderaft.com) or Bear Valley Rafting (bearvalleyrafting.com). Depending on which river fork you take, experience a chill adventure for the whole family (north fork) or a more intense guided river trip through class-IV rapids (south fork). 

Stay: Smith’s Ferry

Smith’s Ferry is a popular Payette River access point with a rustic lodge and gas station. During snowy months, there’s also access to snowmobiling and snowshoeing trails. Stay the night at Cougar Mountain Lodge (cougarmountainlodge-idaho.com), a throwback to the traditional mountain lodge. 

Stop: Lake Cascade State Park

Take the turn-off to Cascade Lake (parksandrecreation.idaho.gov), where you’ll find a serene blue lake surrounded by ponderosa pines and sandy beaches. Enjoy a cool swim or set out on a paddleboard on one of the largest lakes in the state. After a day out on the water, camp at one of the lakeside campsites. 

Stop: Gold Fork Hot Springs

At Gold Fork Hot Springs (goldforkhotsprings.com), soak in one of the six tiered pools overlooking mountain meadows. Your feet will love the heated sidewalks and sandy-bottomed pools.

Stay: McCall

Continue to McCall, near the shores of Lake Payette, and stroll streets lined with cafes, boutiques and galleries. McCall is a charming mountain town with ideal access to the outdoors. Spend a day at the lake, where everything from kayaks to jet boats and pontoons are for rent or book a lake cruise. Find sanctuary for the evening at Shore Lodge (shorelodge.com), and, for winter adventures, check out the nearby Brundage Mountain Resort (brundage.com). 

Nearby hikes: Goose Creek Falls Trail is a short, 3-miles out-and-back, dirt trail. Once you reach the falls, you might have to do a little bit of rock scrambling to get an unobstructed view, but it’s worth it.

Stop: Ponderosa State Park and Payette Lake

Hike or bike the variety of trails at Ponderosa State Park (parksandrecreation.idaho.gov). Most of the park’s trails are interconnected, making it easy to navigate. The Ridgeline Trail can be accessed through the Lily Marsh Trail, an easy 2.3-mile out-and-back trail for the whole family. The Ridgeline Trail is a moderate-to-difficult hike that takes you up to the Narrows Overlook and Osprey Cliff Overlook to take in stunning views of Payette Lake.  

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If you’ve been to St. George lately, you know it is increasingly afflicted with a growing stucco sprawl in every direction. But we’ve discovered an oasis in Padre Canyon. Sentierre is a uniquely situated resort and isolated by a moat of protected federal and state lands. A true desert escape found just five hours from the Wasatch Front. 

Our vote for the sexiest new resort in St. George goes to Sentierre, an escape uniquely designed by Master Architect Mark Philp to meld with its environment and highlight its unworldly location in Padre Canyon on the edge of Snow Canyon State Park. Just minutes away from the heart of St. George, Sentierre feels far away from the sprawling developments and increasingly madding crowds. The sanctuary boasts 45 individual villas, with private pools and fully appointed kitchens (that can host the resort’s private chef, Edward Wright) strategically scattered across the site to adapt to, rather than disrupt the natural topography. An assortment of moody, minimalist décor is dramatically swathed in rich earth tones to soothe guests while panoramic windows create the illusion of being in, rather than merely observing, the surrounding red rocks. On-site offerings include a communal pool, daily wellness activities, E-bikes and excursions customized by your personal “Path Guide” (see below). “It just washes over you,” says Sentierre’s Marketing Director Jocelyn Andersen. “We want to create a place where you spend time with those that matter most to you and give you a space to strengthen your relationships.” Villas start at $2,000/night.

Guided Luxury

In addition to its unparalleled location, Sentierre offers guests a personal “Path Guide” to help you design a retreat centered on wellness and your relationships. Path Guides will direct you to hikes and rides in neighboring Snow Canyon (or farther afield) and self-care appointments, creating a highly customized itinerary of activity and relaxation you will never forget.

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From the grapevine-striped hills of the Sunnyslope Wine Trail to stretches of scenic highways, easy access to the great outdoors and a rich agricultural heritage, Southwestern Idaho is ready with homegrown adventures. This adventure takes us from the superior green spaces and cultural hub in Boise, then heads west to the Nampa/Caldwell area for eclectic farmers’ markets and wine tastings.

Ag-venture in Caldwell/Nampa

Towns like Caldwell and Nampa sprung up in the late 1800s along the Oregon Short Line Railroad, which connected Wyoming to Oregon through Idaho. Wild and rustic, Caldwell also has the distinction of being the home of once-Idaho Governor Frank Steunenberg, who was assassinated by a bomb explosion at his home in retaliation to  his severe anti-union views and suppression of labor protests. 

The construction of irrigation canals and waterways provided the foundation for agriculture, which still largely supports the neighboring economies today, and you can take part in that persistent agricultural history. Both towns have stellar, locally focused farmers’ markets—Nampa Farmers’ Market (April–October) and Caldwell Farm to Fork Farmers’ Market (May–September). Downtown Caldwell has invested in revitalizing much of its urban center, restoring Indian Creek, which was encased in an underground tunnel. Now, it’s a central feature, along with walkable blocks, public art and local boutiques and restaurants.

Caldwell’s AgVenture Trail begins downtown and takes you to local farms and orchards, where you can pick fresh produce, meet farm animals and dine on farm-to-fork meals. Some of the stops on the AgVenture Trail coincide with the Sunnyslope Wine Trail. 

Nearby hikes: If hiking trails are more your speed than wine trails, 35 minutes from Caldwell you’ll find Jump Creek Falls trailhead. The trail is pet- and family-friendly, as a tight half-mile out-and-back trail to the falls. At the end, find a 60-foot waterfall at Jump Creek. The fall boasts vibrant rock walls that rise hundreds of feet above the canyon floor. The trailhead also has several fire rings and picnic spots.

SunnySlope Wine Trail — Vineyards with a View

Hop on the road and take a tour of the wineries in Idaho’s Snake River Valley. According to the Idaho Wine Commission, Southwestern Idaho’s four-season climate, ancient volcanic soil and abundant water supply make it an ideal place to grow grapes and make wine. The Sunnyslope Wine Trail represents the densest concentration of wineries within the region. Seriously, you can’t pop a cork here without hitting a winery: 

Stop 1

As farmers first and winemakers second, the Alger family’s Huston Vineyards harkens back to Southwestern Idaho’s rich agricultural history. Huston Vineyards’ Chicken Dinner Wine Series (named for the legendary street that borders the vineyard) has an impressive lineup of awards. Try a wine flight from the cozy tasting room.

Stop 2

Proudly anti-pretentious, Free Dog Wines proclaim, “Wine should not be hard!” Likewise, the brand name is inspired by the owner’s elderly dog, Tess, who was abandoned as a puppy. Try the excellent Albariño at one of their complimentary wine tastings. 

Stop 3

Williamson Orchards and Vineyards has been in the family since the early 1900s, and, over the course of four generations, their repertoire has expanded to wine grape varietals. The tasting room is a farmhouse full of family antiques and stunning views of the Owyhee Mountains. A glass of the Harvest Moon Red with a DIY charcuterie board will not disappoint. 

Stop 4

Two wineries, one stop! Ste. Chapelle is Idaho’s largest and oldest continually operating winery. The Ste. Chapelle tasting chateau evokes the famous French medieval gothic chapel of the same name. Its neighbor, Sawtooth Winery, sits astride the vineyards just a short distance below. Ste. Chapelle has a dangerously drinkable Soft Huckleberry wine, and Sawtooth’s outstanding Classic Fly Series Dry Riesling is a perfect sipper for enjoying panoramic views of the Snake River Valley from their tasting room.

Biking Boise

No Southwestern Idaho experience is complete without a cruise on the Boise River Greenbelt by bicycle. The Greenbelt is a 25-mile tree-lined pathway that follows the north and south sides of the Boise River through the heart of the city. It provides scenic views of wildlife habitat, access to Boise’s riverside parks and some fun stops along the way:

1. Fuel up for your ride at Push And Pour, a coffee shop with decor Inspired by the owners’ passion for skateboarding and set up in a renovated autobody shop.  
2. Tour Telaya Wine Co. and taste local wines on a shaded patio overlooking the Boise River.  
3. Kayak or surf Boise Whitewater Park, which uses wave-shaping technology.  
4. Catch free, live music and grilled lunch on the outdoor patio at the Sandbar Patio Bar & Grill and stay the night at the on-site Riverside Hotel.  
5. Check out the beer garden at Payette Brewing, where you can play a game of bocce or grab a quick bite from a local food truck.  
6. Stop by 8th Street, an area of Downtown Boise closed to vehicle traffic and the enviable center of Boise’s nightlife and dining scene. The street is lined with restaurants, lounges, open-air patios, sports bars, late-night eateries and tap rooms.  
7. Finish your day there, or continue on and take a walk on the wild side at Zoo Boise.  
8. For glimpses of wildlife—like foxes, deer, mink and herons—take a stroll through the MK Nature Center. GreenBikes are available for rent from any of the stations scattered throughout town. There is some etiquette to keep in mind while cruising the Greenbelt, including yielding to pedestrians and keeping off unpaved paths.

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For most of the two-plus decades that I have called Utah home, my consideration for Idaho really didn’t extend much beyond its most famous ski area, the posh Sun Valley Resort, and the non-Utah half of Bear Lake. Lately, however, I’ve gotten to know the Potato State a little better, particularly its rural southeastern corner—a beautifully rugged landscape ripe for adventuresome nature bathing. Following are highlights of three must-do and-see Idaho summer destinations just over Utah’s northern border: Maple Grove Hot Springs, City of Rocks National Reserve/Castle Rocks State Park and Minnetonka Cave. All of these destinations are reachable within a three-hour drive from Salt Lake City.

Springs Eternal

Tucked along the Bear River’s Oneida Narrows Reservoir, Maple Grove Hot Springs & Retreat Center (maplegrovesprings.com) is 45 acres of nature-infused tranquility. There, you’ll find summer camp-chic accommodations, sweeping mountain-meets-river views and, of course, the natural, mineral-infused hot springs: two swimming-pool-sized soaking pools just outside the River House check-in/locker room building and three smaller, stone-lined pools, situated along lit, flagstone walkways. Besides soaking, things to do at Maple Grove include swimming or paddling in the river, working out the kinks in a yoga class or, as part of the owners’ mission to raise mental health awareness, taking part in the center’s monthly suicide prevention trainings.  

Surreal City

On the bucolic approach to City of Rocks National Reserve/Castle Rocks State Park (nps.gov/ciro), sweeping sageland gives way to fairytale-like valley filled with granite spires that reach toward the sky like giant gnarled fingers. Though these side-by-side recreation areas are a climber’s mecca—just shy of 1,000 rock-climbing routes have been established there—non-climbing families will find plenty to do in the surreal and stunningly beautiful landscape there. Dirt roads throughout both “The City,” as it is known for short, and Castle Rocks lead to trailheads accessing hiking, mountain biking and horseback riding trails that wind through and around the rock formations, including a section of the California National Historic Trail. Pitch your tent at one of the many campsites inside the Reserve ($14 per night); larger sites suitable for both tent camping and RVs, can be found at Castle Rocks’ Smoky Mountain Campground ($31 per night) which also features paved roads, a shower house and flush toilets. Advance and same-day camping reservations for both areas can be made at reserveamerica.com. Day use in The City is free and $7 at Castle Rocks. After the sun goes down, be sure to look up. Earlier this year, City of Rocks received full certification as an International Dark Sky Park. 

Almo Attractions

The super-cute ranching town of Almo offers the closest services to The City/Castle Rocks. Get your bearings at the City of Rocks National Reserve Visitor Center, located in the center of town (208-824-5901, open 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. daily). Other attractions along the Almo’s main drag include the Durfee Hot Springs (durfeehotsprings.com), the wood-fired pizza and HUGE canned beer selection at Rock City Mercantile (208-824-5510) and homemade pie at The Outpost Steakhouse (almoinn.com). Though a few other restaurants eke out an existence there, be sure to bring plenty of food with you for your stay. Almo eateries can get crowded on summer weekends (the closest grocery store is about an hour away).

Over-The-Border Spelunking 

What’s better than dipping a toe in Bear Lake’s cool, blue waters on a hot summer day? Taking a tour of the nearby Minnetonka Cave, one of the largest and most impressive karst limestone caves in the U.S. This mind-blowing natural wonder (that stays at a constant 40 degrees all summer long) features nine separate chambers, all beautifully lit, including the 300-feet-wide and 90-feet tall Ballroom. 

While every part of the cave’s 90-minute tour is impressive, particularly memorable features include the dense set of slender stalactites called the Soda Straw Ceiling and an enormous stalagmite trio dubbed The Three Sisters. 

When you go, bring a jacket and comfortable walking shoes and be ready for a workout: though the distance you’ll cover in the cave is only about half a mile, you’ll climb up and down a daunting 888 stairs in the process. 

Minnetonka Cave is open Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day, weather permitting. Make tour reservations in advance at recreation.gov.  

Getting there

Maple Grove Hot Springs & Retreat Center is 47 miles north of Logan in Thatcher, Idaho. Take S.R. 91 north from Logan to Preston. From there take S.R. 36 to N. Maple Grove Road and Oneida Narrows Road to the retreat center. 

City of Rocks/Castle Rocks State Park: take Interstate 15 north from Salt Lake to Tremonton. There, head west on I-84 to Sublette exit 245 and go west toward Malta, Elba, and Almo. (Google maps may suggest a route along 27 through Oakley, Idaho, which requires driving more than 20 miles on a dirt road.) 

Minnetonka Cave is about 90 minutes from Logan through Logan Canyon and past Bear Lake. Take S.R. 89 north to St. Charles. There turn west onto Minnetonka Cave Road and follow it for 8 miles to the lower cave parking lot.  

Take the Party Elsewhere

Unlike some other hot springs that attract soakers into tying one on, at Maple Grove, relaxation, reflection and wellness take center stage. Drinking is not allowed in the pools, and neither is nudity. After-dark quiet hours require conversations to diminish to a whisper, both at the pools and around campfires. There’s no cell phone service at Maple Grove and the number of daytime and overnight guests is limited. It’s simply one of those few, rare places where you can go to reboot, immerse yourself in nature and find peace.  

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This year, October is bringing more than candy and insensitive costumes. An annular solar eclipse is set to occur on Saturday, Oct. 14th and will pass through seven states and thirty national parks, including most of southern Utah. City folks are gearing up for the trip and small, southern towns are skeptical about the tourists that might trash their public parks and national monuments. Here’s how to prepare for the solar event, where to see it, and a few stargazing events to attend.

What is an annular solar eclipse?

An annular solar eclipse, like a total solar eclipse, occurs when the moon passes between the sun and the Earth. However, when an annular eclipse occurs the moon is in orbit farther away from the Earth and is unable to block the sun completely leaving a burning outline around the moon’s silhouette which is why this type of eclipse is nicknamed “Ring of Fire.” Not only is this event extremely rare, but it will be the second solar eclipse of the year.

When and Where

Capitol Reef, Bryce Canyon, Glen Canyon, Grand Staircase Escalante, Bears Ears, Canyonlands, Natural Bridges, and Rainbow Bridge will all experience the full eclipse.

Capitol Reef: 

9:10 am MDT: Partial solar eclipse begins

10:27 am MDT: Annularity begins.

10:32 am MDT: Annularity ends. Partial solar eclipse resumes.

11:57 am MDT: Partial solar eclipse ends

Check out NASA’s Scientific Visualization Studio for a complete map and timeline of the eclipse. For weather updates in the area go to eclipsophile.com

Lodging

No need to plan your lodgings ahead of time! With thousands of people pouring into small towns that are ill-equipped to handle such a sudden and large influx of tourists, you can be sure that they have reserved a space for you. 

However, if you do wish to book your stay in advance, hotels are available in many towns surrounding Capitol Reef. Please visit the Wayne County, Utah Office of Tourism page for more information.

Camping

Camping reservations at Capitol Reef are fully booked. Check out camping alternatives in the area. Neighboring Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and US Forest Service (USFS) lands do permit dispersed camping, please inquire locally for dispersed camping rules and ethics.

Special Events

Snow College in Richfield, UT is hosting an eclipse event. There will be science experiments, telescopes, and more. Visit the Snow College website for more information.

Visitors can also hike any of the frontcountry or backcountry trails for a unique perspective amongst the rock outcrops of Capitol Reef National Park. Any overnight backpacking trips do require a free backcountry permit which can be obtained at the visitor center.

Ranger programs at Capitol Reef

October 9 – 13:

Daily astronomy activities at 11 am; 30 minutes at Ripple Rock Nature Center lawn.

Daily solar scope viewing outside the visitor center, stop by to look safely at the sun. Times to be determined.

October 12, special eclipse evening program at 7:30 pm at the campground amphitheater.

Safety and Impact

Remember, it is NEVER safe to view an eclipse without certified eyewear. But don’t worry about properly disposing of your glasses. The good residents of Torrey and other small towns will be THRILLED to watch as city-dwellers leave their paper glasses all over parks and public spaces.

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Utah boasts the highest density of certified dark sky parks in the world! Learn more.

We sent our writer, Avrey Evans, on a journey to Oaxaca, Mexico with 18 other Utahns searching for ‘Green Gold’—the agave at the root of a 400-year-old agricultural tradition handed down from generation to generation.

Last April, a group of Utah chefs, bartenders, beverage enthusiasts and wanderlusters headed South to follow the roots of one of our favorite spirits—mezcal. Hosted by an artisanal liquor brand, Wahaka Mezcal, our troop was to take part in this year’s annual reforestation effort in which service workers from around the globe come to Oaxaca to plant agave. With that in mind, I had no idea what else this excursion would offer. All I knew was this would be an experience of a lifetime, and I was yearning to sip mezcal in the motherland. 

day one 

As the fastest-growing booze category in the U.S., agave-based liquors are quickly becoming favorites of leaders in Utah’s food and beverage industry. So, naturally, a trip to Oaxaca drew interest from many mezcal-mesmerized individuals. Once we all arrived in downtown Oaxaca, where Wahaka hosted us at a charming casita, it was time to get acquainted. Turns out, all you need to do is throw in a mix of career drinkers with a few bottles of mezcal, and you become friends pretty fast. Restaurants and bars represented in our boisterous crew were Post Office Place, Sundance Resort, Water Witch, ACME, Lake Effect, Deer Valley Resort, Libation SLC and a healthy smattering of private chefs and hospitality consultants. 

The Avengers assembled, it was time to set off on our first adventure, a tour of Wahaka’s distillery. The open-aired palenque resembled more of a family-owned farm than the industrialized facility one would expect of a large, global brand like Wahaka. Every step of distillation is done by hand, from harvesting the agave piñas, to roasting them in earth pits, to crushing them with a horse-drawn stone mill. Even the final product is tested by hand, or mouth I should say. To check the ABV of each batch, we watched in awe as a mezcalero scooped nearly-finished mezcal into a bowl and blew bubbles into it using a large straw-like tool. His expert eye can identify the ABV by the speed at which bubbles pop. Mezcal flowed freely while we laughed and learned, all was right in this small corner of the world. 

day two

On our second day in Oaxaca, it was time to get our boots on the ground and hunt for wild agave in the mountainous outskirts of town. Much of the world’s agave is sustainably farmed, but some rarer variations are still foraged in the wild. In true rural fashion, we loaded into a flatbed truck like livestock and began our search for green gold. Our guides, Eduardo Belaunzaran and Alejandro Santa Cruz pointed out Tobalas clutching at cliff sides and Cuishe growing proudly in the sun, the Utahns gave “oohs and ahhs” and tried unsuccessfully to avoid the menacing barbs that grow on the tips of Espadin plants. 

Later that evening, with Oaxacan earth now firmly in our bodies and souls, it was time to explore the city’s vibrant nightlife scene. The Water Witch/ACME boys connected with a bar owner downtown to host a takeover at Mezcal Speakeasy. Utahns and locals mingled, sipping on delightful fusions of indigenous ingredients and Utah products, like Waterpocket Notom. Of course, there were plenty of cocktails set ablaze by the Beehive boys behind the stick, and our little group of Utahns felt nothing but welcomed by the people of Oaxaca. 

day three

At the crack of dawn on day three, it was time for the main event. Our ragtag crew of sleep-deprived tipplers loaded into a van and set our sights on Wahaka’s fields, where we would be spending the afternoon planting agave. Determined to repay the kindness of our hosts, we worked as one, digging holes and placing Tobala sprouts in neat rows (in which the field workers only had to correct a few times). Our work finished, we stood like proud parents surveying the 500 Tobala plants that would one day be harvested and distilled into Mezcal that those around the world might enjoy. 

Satisfied with our hard-day’s work, we returned to Wahaka’s palenque, where a full-blown fiesta was waiting. A ten-piece band accompanied by a school of dancers offered entertainment throughout the evening. We ate our fill of chicharronnes pulled right off the pork spit-roasted in the back and danced with Wahaka’s entire family that gifted us this extraordinary peek into their world.

When it finally came time for our goodbyes, I began to reflect on how this experience will bleed into our own culture back home. Each of us will undoubtedly bring our own piece of Oaxaca into our respective establishments, from menu creation to spirited conversations with curious customers. And in some small but meaningful way, we’ve left our mark in Oaxaca as well. Between the conversations had with locals, agave planted in fields and stories shared over copitas full of mezcal, there’s a remnant of Utah spirit that will live on down south. Not bad for a bunch of Mormons. 

The Lifespan of Agave

There are over 200 varieties of agave, an Mezcal can be made out of 40 to 50. As wahaka’s managing partner Eduardo Belaunzaran says, “It’s not a matter of if, but when, we will discover how to make delicious mezcal from every type of agave.” For now, some of the most popular agaves include Espadin, Tobala, Tepaxtate and Cuishe. Each agave varies in size, shape, flavor and maturity rate; some agave grow for 40 years until they are ready to be harvested. On our reforestation trip, we planted 500 bably Tobala plants in Wahaka’s mountainous fields, in 12-15 years, those same platns will be harvests and fermented into an aromatic mezcal with a light tropical flavor.

Must-See Things in Oaxaca

Oaxaca is a vibrant, mountainous state in Southern Mexico. Its namesake capital city offers no shortage of wonders for tourists to explore. Here are some of my favorite ways to make the best of your time in the city. 

Get Lost in Markets

Oaxacan mercados are lively, to say the least. Each market is housed in a different building, specializing in specific goods and foods. Get your Oaxacan souvenirs at Benito Juarez Market, then head to Mercado 20 de Noviembre for life-giving Aguas Frescas. With a beverage in hand, let your nose lead you to the Pasillo De Humo aka Smoke Hall aka Meat Hall. 

Eat Mole, Lot’s of It

Oaxaca is a gastronomic sanctuary, known for its chocolate, mezcal, and of course, mole. There are seven kinds of mole originating in Oaxaca: Negro, Rojo, Coloradito, Amarillo, Verde, Chichilo, and Manchamantel. You can find mole in most restaurants in downtown Oaxaca, my personal go-to is Rojo over browned chicken with queso Oaxaca on the side. 

Cleanse Your Soul at Oaxacan Cathedrals

Some of the earliest churches in Oaxaca date back to the 16th century, and two of the most popular are right in the middle of Oaxaca City. The Santo Domingo de Guzmán cathedral is Oaxaca’s most famous church, featuring gold-leafed baroque architecture and historical objects on display. Just a few blocks away in Zocalo Square is The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption, another remarkable neoclassical church built out of indigenous green volcanic stone. 

Get Swept Away in Oaxacan Weddings

During my stay in Oaxaca, we witnessed two huge wedding parades that practically take over downtown. Live bands, dancers, ten-foot-tall marionettes of the bride and groom, and a horde of weddinggoers march through the streets. It’s common for passersby to stop and enjoy the show, you might even be given a bamboo shot glass that hangs around your neck in which weddinggoers will occasionally offer a pour of rare mezcal. 

Set off on an Excursion 

Two of the most noteworthy and most visited landmarks in Oaxaca are Monte Albán and Hierve el Agua. A large archaeological site of an ancient Zapotec metropolis, Monte Albán includes excavated structures that functioned as a capital city between 500 BCE and 800 CE. Hierve el Agua is a stunning collection of three natural spring pools and calcified waterfalls. The busy tourist spot can see upwards of 7,000 visitors each day, so come prepared with your swimsuit and some patience.

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You can practically hear Peter Coyote narrating the Ken Burns’ documentary. It is America’s Third National Park but, thanks to John Muir’s powerful voice from the wilderness and his famed invitation to President Roosevelt in 1903 to camp with him in Yosemite, it was the park that inspired Roosevelt’s fight to preserve Yosemite and lay the groundwork to create the National Park Program. Muir’s lifelong mission to protect Yosemite captured the national imagination and once you visit, you’ll see why. Why go now: Waterfalls. Giant waterfalls. Yosemite’s famous falls are gushing in the spring and although the park is jaw-dropping year-round, the waterfalls are, well, majestic. But wait a sec: Yes. There will be crowds. And, while the park has instituted a reservation system that eases bottlenecks, bring patience and plan ahead. 

1. Basecamp Option No. 1

Tenaya at Yosemite is just 3 miles from the South Entrance (less busy) and is a destination in itself. Beautiful grounds laced with hiking and biking trails feature a full-service lodge, restaurants, bar, pool and spa. But you’ll want to book one of the Explorer Cabins, a group of private two-bedroom tiny homes, in a quiet wooded glade along the creek below the main lodge. Explore the trails with guided hiking tours or rent a mountain bike and get directions to the hidden waterfall. Tenaya also offers guided tour packages from Yosemite 360, with insightful guides who will give you a good orientation tour of the massive park. visittenaya.com

2. Basecamp Option No. 2

The town of Mariposa is 50 miles from the western (busier) entrance to Yosemite. The southernmost Gold Rush town, founded in 1849 by John C. Fremont has maintained its historical charm with former saloons and rooming houses converted into boutique hotels and upscale cocktail bars. In the historic charm, department try the River Rock Inn (an addition to a home built in 1891) or the Yosemite Plaisance B&B with private rooms and entrances (and meals by chef-owner Hélène Halcrow). For a budget-friendly option, try the newly renovated Mariposa Lodge, a charming motel-style property. For more lodging and dining, choices visit yosemite.com

3. The Mighty Yosemite Valley

The big show, as it were, is Yosemite Valley surrounded by massive granite cliffs laced with thundering waterfalls showering rainbow mists from high above. This is inevitably the most crowded area of the park but here’s a trick. Pack your bathing suit and a towel and locate a picnic area along the Merced River, which abounds with wading and swimming holes accessed from rocky (sandals are helpful) put-in beaches off the picnic areas.  

4. Mariposa Grove (of Giant Sequoias)

Wow. Often missed by visitors champing at the bit to get to the Valley, the Mariposa Grove area is an example of how easy it is in a national park to ditch the crowds by hiking a mile or so off the beaten path. Make time to take the 7-mile Mariposa Grove Trail to Wawona Point which will take you out of the crowded shuttle area into a series of groves to the base of the Giant Sequoias and a final payoff with the view from Wawona Point. Add on the Guardian’s Trail Loop for even more neck-craning wonder. These trees are BIG!   

5. The Little, Medium, Big and Really Big Hikes

Every national park has the hike, in Yosemite, it is the Vernal Fall and Nevada Fall Trails, also known as the “Mist Trail.” And it comes in easy, medium and hard stops. The easy stop is to the footbridge below Vernal Falls but don’t stop there. Climb the giant staircase and walk through the eponymous mist to the top of Vernal Falls. Keep going and you’ll get to the top of Nevada Falls. For the really hardcore you can make the 10- to 12-hour hike to the famed “cable route” to the summit of Half Dome. To actually climb the cable route and summit, you have to luck out with the daily lottery for permits but the hike to the cables is adventure enough!  

Leaving so soon? 

There’s so much to do in the park but don’t miss these deep dives into the history of the area. 2 More Cool Things:

The Mariposa Museum & History Center

A massive and eclectic collection of artifacts and exhibits interpreting Native American, Spanish Settlement, California Gold Rush, Yosemite and Mariposa County History.
mariposamuseum.com

The Yosemite Climbing Museum

Yosemite was where modern climbing was invented. From the famed Camp 4 camping area in Yosemite Valley, a group of rebellious climbers made the first accents of the giant granite walls thought previously unassailable, including Half Dome. Founder Ken Yager was a young climber during some of the most daring portions of this rich history and has dedicated his life to celebrating and honoring “the Dirtbags of Camp 4” with a museum in Mariposa dedicated to their history making accomplishments.
yosemiteclimbing.org 

Getting there

Fresno International Yosemite Airport is a quick flight from SLC and a 65-mile drive to Yosemite’s South Entrance. 

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One step at a time (and lots of training)

Last December, I climbed Kilimanjaro. Most of it anyway. My story of (almost) climbing the tallest mountain on the African Continent starts with my father who left us too soon. He was 58 years old when he died of a heart attack. He was in top shape, and losing him so early cast a shadow over my view of fitness and health, sometimes asking “what does it matter?” But my dad would remind me that being in good health is essential for experiencing the world with whatever time I have. When I was invited to climb Kilimanjaro it was daunting but something I knew my dad would want for me. 

Getting Ready  

I contacted nutritionist and trainer Jeff Sproul of PureFitness and Nutrition. When I said the word “Kilimanjaro” he responded with a prescription for weekly sessions of strength training and nutrition check-ins that kept me accountable and on track. Sproul offers a low-key, non-judgemental approach to fitness. And I’m proof he can work with anyone—a middle-aged mom (like me) or youngsters who want to run Spartan races. 

I also fell back on my yoga practice. Core Power Yoga has some of the best yoga instructors and attending those classes provided a lot of necessary perspectives, flexibility and meditation material that would be invaluable on the most difficult portions of the climb. 

I had been paired with World Wide Trekking by a colleague, who had trekked with the outfit before. Traveling with a local guide, Dean Canidale (WWT’s lead guide and founder), and my local friends made it feel safe to go. So off I went, carrying a worn photo of my father and I standing on top of a peak in the Wind Rivers, smiling and wearing unintentionally matching flannel and khakis. That image kept me going.

On Kilimanjaro

There are five different ecological zones to pass before reaching what is affectionately called “the roof of Africa,” Kilimanjaro. Over the next few days, it was misty. The clouds seemed to rise straight from the ground, swirling above us, behind us and around us. I couldn’t see ahead. I couldn’t see below. I asked our guide, Dean, to move the clouds so we could see the landmark Kilimanjaro Lava Tower. Magically, he waved his hands and they did! (But Dean also started the Human Outreach Project, a non-profit that gives back to locals in the communities he visits around the world. He specializes in miracles.)

Generally, I have a hard time asking for help. When we scaled the Breakfast Wall (the most technical part of the trek), I was struggling but still stubbornly resisted. At one point, I couldn’t see above me and felt panic rising. At that moment our guide Happiness (yes, that was her name) said, “Mary, take the hand of Happiness.” I took her hand. Her hand was strong, warm and soft. We smiled and my fear retreated. I climbed up. 

Comes the Wind

The wind was trying to tell me something. It was trying to say something so much so that it rolled over my tent one night. It kept on howling and beating dirt and grime into my clothing, eyes, ears and nostrils. It made it hard to communicate, walk or breathe. It brought frustration. On the highest camp in the middle of the night, the wind made machinery-like metal noises as it hit the tents and shook them violently for hours. 

I remembered a Core Power Yoga class in the night while the tents shook. The class put me into a position called warrior three where the body is stretched out long horizontally, and one leg is standing firm vertically. As we held the pose and sweat dripped from my body, the instructor said “Mary! You’re making the T like tenacity, do you have tenacity? Do you know what it means?” Gasping, I said, “I don’t know?” She walked by and continued class. Those nights on the mountain, in the wind, I truly learned what it meant. And wind, it turns out, has greater tenacity than us mere humans. After several days, Dean made the hard call to abandon our summit attempt. We slumped back down never setting foot on the top of Africa’s roof. 

Once home, it was hard to explain what it was like. I had a lot to recover from and reflect upon. I called Christine Stockham, LMT, NBT-HWC, the founder of Harmonic Alignments, LLC. Not just a masseuse, she is an integrative bodyworker. I scheduled a 2-hour customized treatment session. She has many techniques, and she is magical. The massage, aromatherapy, and more, let the air out and helped me start understanding the experience.

I still don’t know what the wind was trying to tell me. I’ll wonder for years to come. I’ll consider the vision, purpose, trust and direction I learned from my father and how it helped me find the tenacity to turn away from something I wanted so much.  

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