Fall in Las Vegas is the perfect time to escape the crowds, the lights and The Strip and venture outdoors to the desert. The weather is Goldilocks perfect, and plenty of adventures can be had within 60 minutes of the city. The best part? What happens outside of Vegas doesn’t have to stay in Vegas. Share all you like. Your Instagram feed will thank you.
No. 1:Art in the Desert
Seven Magic Mountains is just 10 miles south of Las Vegas. Photo by Lydia Martinez.
Visit the colorful, stacked monoliths created by Swiss artist Ugo Rondinone. Seven Magic Mountains is a large-scale public art installation just 10 miles south of Las Vegas. The neon totems, made of giant stacked boulders, are 30+ feet high and stand against the backdrop of distant mountains and in contrast to the stark desert atmosphere. Enjoy photo opportunities galore. And bring lots of water. sevenmagicmountains.com
No. 2: Tour an Abandoned Gold Mine
The Techatticup Mine is Southern Nevada’s oldest and richest Gold Mine. It produced so much gold (1861–1942) that steamboats came along the river to load up on the ore. The mine tour is the perfect way to escape the heat into the cool air of the mine, where you’ll learn about the geology, history and people who lived and worked there. Reservations are required. eldoradocanyonminetours.com
No. 3: Kayak the Colorado River
Book a tour with Evolution Expeditions for a 3-hour tour of the dam-locked Colorado River between the famous Hoover Dam and Eldorado Canyon. The river is smooth and easy to navigate. Paddle past historic sites and venture into the Black Canyon narrows to explore the river. Your guide will teach you to back your kayak into the famous Emerald Cave to get some stunning photos of the emerald-green water. On the way back, stop at Hoover Dam for sunset photos. evolutionexpeditions.com
No. 4. 2: Visit a Historic Ghost Town
Goodsprings Ghost Town boasts 120 years of history and dozens of historic buildings. From the old schoolhouse to the social hall, you can take a self-guided tour through the town, wrapping up at the Pioneer Saloon, the oldest bar in Southern Nevada (opened in 1913). Get the famous POLTERGEIST Burger with famous ghost sauce (derived from ghost chilis) and a dash of Old Man Liver’s house-made Yummy As F**k Sauce. pioneersaloonnv.com
Goodsprings Ghost Town offers history and the Pioneer Saloon (below) is still open for business. Photo by Lydia Martinez.
No. 5:Go for a Day Hike
Before the Hoover Dam was constructed, a railroad was built to transport materials to the site, complete with 5 tunnels burrowed through the mountainside, each one totaling 300 feet in length and 25 feet in diameter. It has since been turned into the Historic Railroad Trail (a 3.7-mile hike) with a beautiful overlook of Lake Mead. Walk through the giant tunnels and enjoy the signage along the trail to learn about the area’s history, geology, flora and fauna. Visit at sunset for stunning painted desert views and cool air. nps.gov/lake
Salt lake resident Stuart Graveshas run a whopping 47 marathons worldwide. Although he still runs every day, his marathoning days are behind him (“I can’t even imagine doing a marathon again.”) He has fond memories of the St. George race which was extra special because the course gave him two of his fastest times and was the marathon that qualified him for the pinnacle of distance running The Boston Marathon, which he’s run twice.
Stuart says that the course is popular with runners around the world precisely for that reason. “It’s known as a fast course and is a sanctioned Boston qualifier, so people come from all over to run it,” he says.
Its setting in the red rock country of Southwestern Utah provides a dramatic backdrop for the 26.2 miles. “You are running past lava fields, stunning red rock formations,” he says. And, because the course has a good elevation drop (hence faster times), it provides stunning views the entire way. It also helps, he says, that the race is in the fall. This year’s date is set for Saturday, Oct. 5. “But it’s still pretty warm even that time of year,” Stuart says.
“It’s definitely not all downhill,” he cautions. “There’s a butt kicker of a hill near Veyo for example but it’s an otherworldly setting to run in.” And, after the race, it’s easy to take recovery hikes in nearby Snow Canyon State Park, take a dip in the reservoir at Gunlock State Park or venture to Springdale and Zion National Park.
We asked Stuart for some suggestions on creating a complete marathon weekend down south.
Find your Base
The Advenire, Autograph Collection (marriott.com), is a boutique hotel in downtown St. George’s small historic district. The Advenire’s blend of modern elegance and historical charm create an excellent base to get some quality sleep before race day. The Red Mountain Resort (redmountainresort.com) in nearby Ivins, is another option that includes a focus on wellness and spa services to help you calm your nerves before or recover after the marathon. Stuart also says runners can consider staying in Cedar City, about an hour north of St. George. “I never really sleep the night before a marathon,” he says. “And rooms fill up fast in St. George so one year, I just got up an hour earlier and made the trip down from Cedar City.”
Pre-Race fuel
The St. George Marathon is a draw for runners because it is a downhill course (mostly) and a Boston Marathon qualifier. Image courtesy of City of St. George.
The day before the race, get lunch at Riggatti’s Wood Fired Pizza (riggattis.com), where the thin, crispy crust and fresh ingredients create a perfect balance of flavors. The spinach and ricotta pizza, paired with a crisp Caesar salad, is an excellent choice for a light meal.
For dinner, try Cappeletti’s (cappelettisrestaurantstgeorge.com), a cozy Italian restaurant located in the heart of St. George. Pasta dishes, like Fettuccine Alfredo are carb-heavy splurges.
The Marathon
Race day comes early. St. George is an out-and-back race where runners are bussed to the starting line. “It’s a nice feature of the route,” Stuart says. “Even though you have to get up earlier, it’s much nicer running back into town, rather than a loop, which means you have to run the same terrain twice.” The marathon route shows off the majestic red rock formations outside of St. George and as you return to the town and finish line, the route is lined with cheering crowds. “Even though this is a big race, it still feels like a small town and the crowds are so supportive,” Stuart says.
Post-Race Indulgence
Celebrate your accomplishment (hopefully) with a post-race feast at Cliffside Restaurant (cliffsiderestaurant.com). Perched atop a hill, the restaurant offers breathtaking views of St. George and the surrounding desert. Spoil yourself with the surf and turf—a Ribeye steak and a fresh seafood platter, washed down by a refreshing Mojito. The sunset over the red cliffs is the perfect end to a marathon day.
Newport Beach is just 20 minutes north of another iconic Orange County beach town, Laguna Beach. But they are worlds apart. Laguna Beach is the silhouette of a tousle-haired blond emerging from the surf as the sun sets. Newport Beach is a handsome couple, clad in Dolce and Gabbana, climbing out of an Escalade. Laguna is track one, side one of The Beach Boys’ Pet Sounds.
Pirate’s Cove is known for being calm and waveless, making it a good place for families to swim.
Photos courtesy of Visit Newport Beach.
Newport is Yacht Rock. The energy in Newport is upscale, the hedges are manicured and the scene oozes style. But don’t let the flash fool you. This is still a beach town, with plenty of sun, sand and nautical adventures to be had. (It just has better shopping.) As winter looms here in Utah, consider the short flight from SLC to John Wayne Airport for your fall getaway and explore the good life.
Newport’s Ship Comes In
Newport’s name comes from a brave (or foolhardy, decide for yourself) nautical feat. After the Civil War, western migration spiked and many emigrants settled in the area looking for agricultural land. Access to the sea (and important supplies) however, was made difficult by the narrow and shallow opening to Newport Bay, then called San Joaquin Bay. In 1870, an intrepid merchant marine named Captain Samuel Sumner Dunnels successfully dared the channel, with a 105-ton, flat-bottomed steamer loaded with lumber and supplies from San Diego. Dunnels proclaimed that he had discovered a “New Port” and there you have it. Dredging and widening of the channel in the early part of the 20th century made the bay entry less dangerous, and, for a time, Newport was a major shipping port on the coast before rail arrived and major shipping moved north to San Pedro. This was fortuitous and changed the town’s trajectory from heavy industry towards tourism and leisure. The wide bay became a port of call for the pleasure craft of the wealthy. Yacht rock, baby.
Bar Pendry at Pendry Newport Beach.
Photos courtesy of Bar Pendry.
Stay: Pendry Newport Beach
For a taste of Newport’s well-heeled lifestyle stay at Pendry Newport Beach (pendry.com) a newly renovated luxury hotel located near Newport’s iconic shopping center, Fashion Island. You’ll be welcomed with the hotel’s signature Pendry drink (every Pendry has a non-alcoholic refresher to greet guests).
Protip: Use the codeword “Daffodil” at the bar and they’ll kick it up a notch with a top-shelf spirit. Remember. You are not in Utah anymore.
Pendry Newport Beach is a full-service hotel with an emphasis on service. A fleet of staffers is deployed around the hotel to ensure no request is too small or too big. After check-in be sure to visit (or revisit) the Bar Pendry. Hotel bars can often be dreary, populated with bored spouses and business travelers hunched over laptops. This hotel bar, however, is hopping with live music and a solid bar menu. Since Pendry’s renovation, it has become a popular spot with actual Newport Beach locals, who are a friendly, convivial bunch.
Play: Explore the California Coast
You came here for the water, right? The best way to get into the Newport vibe is to book a Whale Watching tour with the guiding outfit Newport Coastal Adventure (newportcoastal adventure.com). The coast beyond the harbor is teeming with ocean life. Dolphins and whales await as you zoom around the ocean in a zippy Zodiac with narration and marine science banter flowing from your crew. (On a recent trip we saw many humpback whales and enjoyed a rare sighting of a blue whale, the big mamma! Also, lots of frolicking dolphins).
Newport Coastal Adventure and other outfitters offer whale-watching tours via Zodiac, a small craft that moves fast. Photos courtesy of Visit Newport Beach.
Eat & Drink: Dining from lux to Comfort
Fuel up for (or conclude) a shopping trip to Fashion Island at Joey Newport (joeyrestaurants.com) with a great happy hour and an open patio that features a bar and retractable sections of the roof. Enjoy the coastal air and a glass of well-deserved champagne around the outdoor fire pit. Find a farm-to-table breakfast and water views at Malibu Farm Lido (malibu-farm.com) known for its fresh, organic and local ingredients. The opposite of Malibu Farm Lido would be Breakfast at Wilma’s Patio (wilmaspatio.com), a classic diner in the older part of Newport featuring a selection of “Balboa Bombers” a mess of eggs, meat and hashbrowns served in a hollowed-out sourdough bread bowl. Enjoy an elegant lunch on the outdoor patio back at Pendry Newport Beach at the hotel’s signature restaurant, SET: Steak & Sushi (setnewport.com). Finally, for a scenic (and delicious) experience, book a harbor tour on a Duffy Boat with Sea Señorita (seasenoritaduffy.com). Duffy boats are small all-electric boats that ply the harbor and can host floating parties for, say, bachelorettes or friend-tribe trips. In our case, we concluded our tour at the dock outside of Blue Water Grill (bluewatergrill.com) an excellent seafood restaurant with the requisite seasonal fish, oysters, clams and crab on the menu.
Photos courtesy of Visit Newport Beach.
The One and Only Crystal Cove State Park
Amid all the finer things in life found in Newport Beach, there is a special scruffy little gem preserved from another time. Crystal Cove State Park (crystalcovestatepark.org) is the site of a handful of beach shacks that were “built” in the 1920s. We put that in quotation marks because these are improvisational structures. The small community used whatever they had on hand to enhance these bric-a-brac buildings, which often began as “kit homes” bought from the Sears & Roebuck catalog. The site became a popular movie location for films like South Pacific and Beach Blanket Bingo, with its most well-known turn in the movie Beaches. (One of the cabins was the location for the film’s heart-wrenching ending.) You can visit the park, a lovely cove with surf to splash in, tidal pools to explore and waterside dining where you can witness the daily happy hour raising of the martini flag at the Beachcomber at Crystal Cove (thebeachcombercafe.com). (Motto: “Every night is Saturday night, and Saturday night is New Year’s Eve. Come raise the flag with us!”) But the Taylor Swift ticket here is scoring a reservation for one of the cabins and spending the night. The booking system is administered by California State Parks and is much like reserving a public campsite. It’s first-come-first-served, you get what you get, with spots opening on a rolling window, allowing reservations up to six months in advance. Try your luck at reservecalifornia.com.
San Diego’s Little Italy district dates back to the 19th century when thousands of Italian immigrants formed vibrant neighborhoods that thrived on the area’s rich fishing industry. Today, Little Italy is still home to San Diego’s longest-running neighborhood business sector and brimming with authentic and unique dining experiences.
Little Italy’s Farmer’s Table. Photo courtesy Farmer’s Table.
No. 1 Brunch
Morning Glory (morningglorybreakfast.com) isn’t all about the looks—it also has amazing eclectic brunch food from Michelin-starred chef Jason McLeod. Expect to wait as the line starts building early. If you’re a people watcher, Farmer’s Table (myfarmerstable.com) has the perfect outdoor patio for brunch. Right on the corner of the Little Italy market, enjoy one of their famous elaborate bloody marys and a farm-to-table meal while you observe the bustling market around you.
No. 2 Shopping
Join the crowd and peruse San Diego’s largest farmer’s market. The market has all types of vendors, from fresh produce and flower bouquets to hand-made soaps and oddities. The Little Italy Mercato (littleitalysd.com) is open every Saturday and Wednesday, located on Piazza della Famiglia, a European-style piazza dedicated to the families of the Little Italy neighborhood.
Mission Federal Art Walk brings thousands
to Little Italy to view art and enjoy live music. Photo courtesy of Art Walk Little Italy.
No. 3 Liquid Lunch
Ballast Point (ballastpoint.com) offers an array of rotating experimental beers, ensuring everyone can find a brew they will enjoy. Grab a flight to enjoy in a private outdoor cabana, or get on the action and watch the brewers craft an R&D beer. Pali Wine Co. (paliwineco.com) charges $15 for a wine flight that includes five of their distinct wines. Enjoy their fine wines in the main room or on their rooftop patio.
Menu at Roman Wolves. Photo courtesy of Roman Wolves.
No. 4 Dinner
Enjoy the spirit of Rome at Roman Wolves (romanwolves.com). They pride themselves on offering a genuine Italian experience where every guest feels like family. Savor time-honored classics and unique dishes, made with locally sourced fresh ingredients. Cloak and Petal (cloakandpetal.com) is a hidden gem disguised as an abandoned Tokyo subway. This vibrant spot hits all the marks with its Japanese fusion dishes and extensive drink menu.
No. 5 Drinks
Take a spin at Wolfie’s Carousel Bar (wolfiescarousel.com), an 1800s-style French bistro and cocktail bar featuring a whimsical revolving carousel. The bar offers plenty of signature cocktails, wines and beers. It also offers brunch and dinner. Waterfront Bar & Grill (waterfrontbarandgrill.com) is San Diego’s oldest tavern, established in 1933. It specializes in bar food, drinks and a great time. It’s the ideal spot for those seeking a dive bar atmosphere.
The first visual impression Iceland makes on visitors is that of a craggy, volcanic rock draped in a lush mantle of moss-green lichen. The lichen is fragile and posted signs warn tourists to stay on designated paths, lest their stray footfalls damage the century-old heaths. Perhaps this demonstrates the double-edge of the tourism boom to the land of fire and ice. Much of Iceland’s beauty draws crowds because it is wild, singular, ancient and untouched by humans, but the more people visit Iceland, the less likely it is for it to remain so. Tourism has become Iceland’s primary export in the last decade, with more than 2.3 million visitors expected this year. To put that in perspective, there are fewer than 400,000 total residents in Iceland. It’s a small country with limited infrastructure to support large crowds outside of the capital city of Reykjavík. An industry has formed around the increased travel, and, while Iceland is welcoming, that welcome wears thin when visitors are disrespectful.
The author and Sam Sabine at Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. An arm of the glacier is visible in the distance. Photo credit Michael Porter.
A Week in Iceland
There were four of us. My brother (the photographer) and I (the writer) and our partners (the producer and the artist). We had a week in Iceland and wanted to see and experience as much as we possibly could. We rented a car and hit the road—the Ring Road, to be specific, a road that travels Iceland’s entire coast. We would need at least another week to circumnavigate the whole island, but one week took us from Reykjavík on the west coast to the Eastfjords on the east coast, with all of the beauty of the Southern region—Vatnajökull (Europe’s biggest glacier), basalt waterfalls and black sand beaches—in between.
Pro Tip: Before you set off, look into renting a wireless hotspot to stay connected on the road. Despite the remoteness of some of the areas we visited, we almost always had internet service.
Krossanesfjall mountain in Southeast Iceland. Photo credit Michael Porter.
No.1 Lava Fields and Hot Pools
The Keflavík International Airport is in a southwestern region of Iceland called the Reykjanes Peninsula, which means many visitors’ first stops are roadside outlooks over endless moss-covered lava fields, geothermal pools and hiking trails in the shadow of a volcano. The Blue Lagoon hot spring is a popular spot for visitors straight from the airport for obvious reasons. Who doesn’t want a hot soak, mimosa and mineral face mask after a nine-hour flight from the States? However, all of that geothermal fun comes at a cost. Recent eruptions and seismic activity in the Reykjanes Peninsula have put some areas on alert and closed popular tourist destinations.
Pro Tip: If Blue Lagoon is closed due to volcanic activity at the time of your visit, continue to Reykjavik for an introductory soak at Sky Lagoon
The famous “Rainbow Street,” painted in celebration of Reykjavík Pride. Photo credit Michael Porter.
No. 2 Reykjavík nightlife
With a 6 a.m. arrival at the airport and a few hours spent at the hot springs, get to Reykjavík just in time to check into the hotel or vacation rental, clean up and head out to enjoy the local sights, dining scene and nightlife. (You could attempt a power nap, but we recommend powering through until bedtime to acclimate to the time zone.) Music fans can time their trip to Reykjavík for Icelandic Airwaves (Nov. 7–9, 2024), an international genre-bending music festival held in venues across the city. Stop by Hallgrimskirkja, a church designed to look like Iceland’s basalt cliff formations and the statue of Viking Leifur Eiríksson. Keep an eye out for Laugavegur, a pedestrian-friendly thoroughfare lined with cafes, shops and bars, and Skólavörðustígur, an easy street to spot given it is painted in Instagram-worthy rainbow color blocks.
No. 3 Chasing waterfalls
The road east from Reykjavík, through the Southern region, will take you past fields of stout Icelandic horses, ancient Viking turf homes and some of the most stunning waterfalls in the world. Urridafoss is one of the largest waterfalls in the world by volume, but it’s typically far less crowded than the two waterfalls down the road. Gljufrabui is a waterfall hidden among “troll caves” a short hike from the towering waterfall Seljalandsfoss. Just down the road, you’ll find the rather impressive Skógafoss. Closer to the glacier Vatnajökull, the hike to the basalt column waterfall, Svartifoss, is well worth it.
Pro tip: Another can’t-miss hike is the trail to Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon near the village of Kirkjubæjarklaustur. Imagine volcanic rock walls, softened with tufts of grass and moss, collapsing into sheer rock faces to the swirling cerulean water below.
Natural basalt columns frame the waterfall Svartifoss in Vatnajökull National Park. Photo by Michael Porter.
No. 4 Vík sightseeing
You will know you’re in Vík when you spot Vík i Myrdal Church, a nearly 100-year-old white church with a red roof, rising on a hillside above the town. Many come to visit nearby Reynisfjara Beach, a beautiful black sand beach with basalt columns and caverns and a dangerous reputation. The quick, powerful ocean waves will damage camera equipment and knock over inattentive people, sometimes dragging them out to sea. Vík is also home to my favorite Icelandic coffee shop, Skool Beans (skoolbeans.com), which, as the name might suggest, took up residence in a renovated yellow school bus. If he happens to be in, be sure to say “Hi” to the manager, a ginger cat named Jeffrey. The coffee drinks are also very good.
No. 5 Glacial exploration
There are two glacier adventures we recommend booking in Iceland: a kayaking excursion on the glacial lagoon and a glacier hiking expedition. Navigate around icebergs in Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and meet some curious seal pups, who, according to our guide, are all named Gustav. While we saw some people struggle to maneuver in crampons with ice picks and traverse atop the glacier Vatnajökull, if you’re able, I still recommend it…and sipping straight out of the rivulets (created from the immense pressure from the ice) is about the purest water you’ll ever taste. Unfortunately, the glacier is disappearing. In the last 30 years, Vatnajökull has shrunk by at least 150 square miles due to climate change. Before you go, make sure to get a group photo at Diamond Beach, a black sand beach that earns its name from the sparkling chunks of glacial ice that wash up on shore.
No. 6 Eastfjords
Our final stop is the town of Seyðisfjörður in Eastern Iceland, perhaps most famous for its church, Seyðisfjarðarkirkja. The cobblestone path to the church at the center of town is painted in rainbow colors, and the town alone is worth a visit for its understated charm, abundance of murals and scenic beauty. While in the Eastfjords, end your trip at the unparalleled Vök Baths—remote geothermal pools that border the lake Urriðavatn. Locals will cheer you on as you take the polar plunge by jumping into the chilly lake after a soak in the hot pools.
Aurora Borealis over Hvolsvöllur, Iceland. Photo by Michael Porter.
Northern Lights
The optimal season for viewing the Aurora Borealis in Iceland is September to April, with the Winter Solstice—the coldest and darkest time of year—at its peak. For the best chance to see the Northern Lights, stay outside of more populated areas. For instance, renting a cabin in Hrífunes Nature Park, outside of Vík, is perfect for viewing the Auroras and stargazing. During our visit in late September, we went our entire road trip without a whiff of the Auroras until our final night there. They emerged after midnight above our vacation rental near the village of Hvolsvöllur, about an hour-and-a-half drive from Reykjavík. For the Aurora forecast, visit auroraforecast.is.
What to Eat
Street food and fresh, pre-made convenience store fare in Iceland are a step above what one might expect in the U.S. We became hooked on an Icelandic soda made with fish collagen, Collab(collabiceland.is). The elderflower-lime flavor with caffeine is a personal favorite. Hot dogs are kind of a thing, and many villages will have a hot dog truck or two. Fish soup and lamb stew are both staples, and soup is a satisfying way to warm up and fill your belly after a day outdoors in the wind and rain. Our favorite lunch spot we happened upon by chance at a combination cafe/art gallery in Hvolsvöllur called Eldstó Art Cafe/Restaurant (eldsto.is).
Summer in Utah is the best time for a spontaneous weekend adventure. One tried-and-true way to take advantage of the Beehive State’s unique culture is to take a drive along Utah’s section of U.S. Highway 89. From Garden City to Kanab, Highway 89 showcases authentic Utah eateries, historic landmarks, awe-inspiring sceneries and much more—perfect for the whole family to enjoy, or for a couple’s getaway. So load up the car and settle in, let’s explore Highway 89!
Night before:
Begin your trip in the Northern Utah town Garden City, home of Bear Lake and near the Idaho border, check in to Conestoga Ranch (conestogaranch.com) for a glamping experience in a covered-wagon tent. Pick up a quick and easy dinner at seasonally opened La Beau’s (labeaus.com), where they serve Bear Lake’s famous raspberry milkshakes and other small-town fast food.
Bear Lake. Photo by Marc Piscotty / Visit Utah
Day One: Garden City to Salt Lake City (120 mi)
After a night in Garden City, spend the morning in the city. Enjoy breakfast at Campfire Grill Restaurant (campfiregrillrestaurant.com) with a classic American breakfast or some cinnamon french toast. Rent a boat or canoe to spend some time in the water or walk around the lake and see why Garden City is known as the “Caribbean of the Rockies.”
After a slow and calm morning in Bear Lake, get on Highway 89 and head down to Brigham City. The small town’s iconic Peach City restaurant (thepeachcity.com), located right on Main Street, is an all-American diner experience and was voted to have the best fries in Utah by KSL Studio 5.
The section of Highway 89 between Brigham City and Willard is also known as the “Fruit Highway.” With an array of Utah-grown produce ranging from peaches to cherries to raspberries, these fresh fruit stands are at their peak in mid-late summertime.
Further down 89 is Ogden, Utah. What was once a rail hub for the Western United States has now turned into its own quirky town, unique to many other Utah cities. Ogden’s iconic Historic 25th Street is currently in the running for USA Today’s best USA main street. With a variety of things to do, from axe throwing to walk-in tattoos to exploring various restaurants, 25th Street brings a lot to the table. Enjoy dinner at Roosters Brewing (roostersbrewingco.com) on the famous street with classic brewery-style foods like Carne Asada tacos, burrata and pesto pizza, and a gorgonzola bacon burger.
After dinner, make your way south to settle down for the night in the state’s capital. Salt Lake City’s Little America Hotel (saltlake.littleamerica.com) promises a comfortable and charming night’s stay, and has been an iconic part of the city’s history for generations.
Day Two: Salt Lake City to Marysvale (190 mi)
Awake to the gorgeous skyline of Salt Lake City and head down to Finns (finnscafe.net), a Scandinavian-influenced cafe, for breakfast. Partake in their famous sourdough pancakes, a traditional Scandinavian breakfast, Wienerschnitzel and eggs or any other breakfast food that the heart may desire.
Natural History Museum dinosaur display. Photo by Marc Piscotty
Finish up in SLC with the Natural History Museum of Utah (nhmu.utah.edu), located on the mountainside of the University of Utah’s campus. Learn about Utah’s rich geological and archeological history from every period of Earth’s history. With regularly changing inventory, there is always something new to discover.
After exploring the state’s capitol, hop back on Highway 89 and head south to Provo. Stop for lunch at Black Sheep Cafe (blacksheepcafe.com), a Native American-owned restaurant that serves a variety of Navajo tacos, a Utah-specific cuisine made up of taco fillings on frybread.
After leaving Provo to venture even further South, Utah’s metropolitan area starts to diminish as its more rural and natural areas start to take over. Take a break in Manti to experience the Pioneer Heritage Gardens and to take a stretch before the remainder of the day’s trip.
Along the route is Big Rock Candy Mountain, take a peek at the seemingly normal mountain, the namesake to an iconic American folk song.
Stop for dinner at Coach’s Dog House in Marysvale. Coach’s offers classic hot dogs and hamburgers for a simple, but satisfying meal to end the long day of driving through the Beehive state. Lay down for the night at the Pine Creek Cabins Resort (pinecreekcabinsresort.com) for a night in one of their cozy cabins, a summertime classic.
Day Three: Sevier to Kanab (115 mi)
Wake up from a peaceful night in a cabin and head just shy of an hour south to Wanderlust Cowgirl Coffee (wanderlustcowgirlcoffee.com) to live out your Wild West dreams. Order coffee, fruity drinks, like smoothies, energy drinks or orange cream, and some breakfast food to gather energy for the long road ahead.
The Narrows at Zion National Park. Photo by David Pettit / Visit Utah
Though Highway 89 does pass through Zion National Park, it does lead to East Zion Adventures (eastzionadventures.com). Before Southern Utah’s blazing sun gets the best of the day, spend the morning canyoneering, jeep touring, UTV-ing or even horseback riding at East Zion Adventures.
Less than half an hour down the road is Thunderbird Restaurant (thunderbirdutah.com) in Mt. Carmel, a great lunch stop to sit, enjoy the view and cool down after a morning out in the desert heat. Enjoy their Carmel Mountain burger or Thunderbird sandwich, with a variety of lunch classics on the menu as well.
Once you’ve arrived in Kanab (a.k.a Utah’s ‘Little Hollywood), indulge fans of old Western films at Little Hollywood Land (littlehollywoodmuseum.org). The museum features information about Hollywood from 1924 to today and gives visitors insight as to why the Southern Utah city has drawn filmmakers for nearly 80 years.
After a day of museums and the outdoors, enjoy the scenery at Wild Thyme Cafe (wildthymekanab.com) in Kanab. Savor the farm-to-table freshness of the restaurant’s high-quality food as you recount the details of your Highway 89 trip.
Take in the sandstone scenery for the last stay of the trip at Cave Lake Canyon Ranch (cavelakes.com). Experience a night of glamping in the ranch’s luxurious tents in Southern Utah’s unique and extraordinary landscape.
Final Morning:
As the trip comes to its close, grab a morning pick-me-up at Taro Coffee Bar (tarocoffeebar.com) while deciding your return route, see what adventures I-15 may bring on the way up North or embark on a whole new adventure.
Though Highway 89 runs from Yellowstone to Flagstaff, Utah’s portion of the US highway brings its own, unique adventures that offer insight into Utah’s culture. From Northern Utah’s delicious fruit to Southern Utah’s Wild West appeal, exploring U.S. 89 offers a new look into these cultural gems.
Undoubtedly, the alpine skiingopportunities within 30 minutes of Salt Lake rank evenly with the best winter resorts in the world. And I, like hundreds of thousands of Wasatch Front residents, try to soak up as much resort skiing as I can during Utah’s short but sweet ski season. That said, for one winter weekend, I hang up my alpine skis, load my snowshoes and cross-country skis into the car and beat it to Bryce Canyon National Park. There, among red rock spires, campy small towns, scenic trails and glorious cross-country ski tracks, I treat myself to a much-needed, nature-infused recharge.
Bryce Canyon National Park Rangers lead guided snowshoe excursions along the rim of Bryce Canyon. Photo Courtesy of Bryce Canyon National Park.
1. Stay
Lodging rates in the Bryce Canyon area are a steal in winter. Ruby’s Inn, located in Bryce Canyon City, offers clean, pleasant and dog-friendly hotel rooms with lots of on-site amenities. In nearby Tropic, Bryce Canyon Pines features standard hotel rooms and a three-bedroom family suite with a full kitchen. Or rent a home through Vrbo or AirBnB (like this cute two-bedroom house 12 miles from BCNP in Cannonville at vrbo.com/719925). rubysinn.com, bcpines.com
2. Glide
Ruby’s Inn sets more than 30 kilometers of cross-country skiing track for both classic and skate skiing throughout the Ponderosa Pine-filled forest directly next to the hotel. Admission to the track is free for both hotel guests and those staying elsewhere. Ruby’s Inn also maintains an ice ribbon next to its Winter Activity Center (Ebenezer’s Bar & Grill building). The cost to skate is just $7 and includes ice skate rental.
3. Hike
Thanks to its 8,000-feet-above-sea-level elevation, the contrast of snow-flocked red rock against blue skies is both a sight to behold and common in the winter months at Bryce Canyon National Park. For an up-close view of Bryce’s snow-frosted spires or “hoodoos,” take a walk on the Queen’s Garden/Navajo Combination Loop, a 2.3-mile, moderate trail descending and ascending the canyon between Sunset and Sunrise points. Before you go, check in at the park Visitor Center for the latest trail conditions and info on ranger-led snowshoe hikes.
If you’re looking for more than the ample elbow room offered at Bryce Canyon, head 10 miles southeast to Red Canyon, known as “Little Bryce,” for its red rock hoodoos and pink sand. The Red Canyon Visitor Center is closed in the winter, but current hiking, mountain biking and OHV trail information is posted on a kiosk at the mouth of the canyon. Drive 10 miles farther along Scenic Byway 12 through Tropic to Kodachrome State Park. There are five hiking trails that wind among surreal sandstone spires, called sedimentary pipes. Pro tip: Dress in layers as temperatures vary widely between the sun and shade in the desert, especially in the winter. Snow-covered trails throughout the park are invariably slick making micro-spikes and hiking poles/walking sticks musts. (Both can be rented at Ruby’s Inn.) nps.gov/brca, stateparks.utah.gov
4. Eat & Drink
Dining in this corner of Utah is limited, especially in the winter. The Cowboy’s Buffet & Steak Room at Ruby’s Inn is open year-round, but there’s often a wait. The region’s only liquor store can be had at Ruby’s Inn as well. Other options include traditional barbecue from the soda fountain IDK Barbecue or hand-tossed pizza, salads, entrees, and beer from The Pizza Place at Bryce Canyon Inn—both in Tropic. Clark’s Country Market, on Main Street in Tropic, offers supermarket-level groceries. Pro tip: I often pre-make chili or curry to heat up in a crock pot in the hotel room while my friends and/or family and I ski or hike during the day. Then we know we’ll have a hot meal at the end of a stellar day spent outdoors. brycecanyonpizza.com, idkbarbecue.com, clarkscountrymarket.com
Bryce Canyon National Park has been officially designated a Dark Sky Park and the night sky is especially gorgeous in the winter. Photo Courtesy of Adobe Stock.
Winter Festival
Snow play in the high desert takes center stage during Ruby’s Inn’s annual Bryce Canyon Winter Festival (February 17-19, 2024). This family-friendly event includes cross-country ski and ice-skating instruction, wildlife track clinics, watercolor painting, yoga classes and much more—most of which are free. Events are held at Ruby’s Inn and in Bryce Canyon National Park. rubysinn.com
Peering into Dark Skies
Petzl Tikka Headlamp, $34.95, available at rei.com
Though the Bryce Canyon Astronomy Festival is held annually in June, low moisture and long nights make winter an even better time to stargaze at BCNP. It is possible, in fact, to see more than 7,500 stars with the naked eye on a moonless winter night there. Take advantage of regular ranger-led stargazing talks and clinics held as part of one of the oldest national park astronomy programs in the country. Both BCNP and Kodachrome Basin State Park have been named Dark Sky Parks by the International Dark Sky Association.
Pro tip: If you plan to walk around at night, consider bringing along a headlamp with a red light setting, like Petzl’s Tikka, which allows you to see details in the dark without impairing anyone’s night vision.nps.gov/brca
With the holidays now firmly behind us, you might be tempted to put away those glass moose mugs and bid farewell to a seasonal sipper. But the custard-like concoction can and should be enjoyed into the winter months, and for one Utah town, it’s a year-round emblem.
Long ago in Medieval England, some uppity imbibers decided to warm their bellies with a mix of curdled warm milk, wine or ale, spices, and hell—why not crack an egg in there? Sounds delicious, I know. These ingredients were too expensive for the average peasant to acquire, thus the beverage was mostly enjoyed by the aristocracy. After a few generations, and a skip over the Atlantic, the descendant of the curdled concoction became eggnog. Colonists had ready access to milk and eggs, though they swapped out fortified wines for rum, whiskey or moonshine. By the 1800s eggnog was a popular drink enjoyed during the winter months, and eventually became synonymous with the holidays.
Despite the popularization of eggnog consumption from Thanksgiving through the New Year, it’s quite a divisive cocktail. You either hate it or you love it. The rich drink has even been the root of riots—the 1826 Great West Point Eggnog Riot to be exact, where scores of cadets broke the academy’s no-drinking policy to indulge in some ‘nog. But for one Utah hamlet, their affinity for Eggnog is so great that they’re named after it.
Located in Garfield County just southeast of Capital Reef, Eggnog was established in 1979. The desolate town was likely named for their residents’ tendency to serve eggnog to ranchers. With its hefty texture and fattening qualities, the drink is a quick way to restore some energy for laborers. So while the rest of us might turn up our noses to the thought of eggnog off-season, just remember that in some Beehive communities, the ‘nog is a fixed point of pride.
