“You’re going to Denver again?” is a common query I field after submitting my annual summer PTO and oh-so-satisfyingly ticking the “can’t attend” box on tedious seasonal RSVPs. Though my familial connections to the Mile High City are largely to credit for my migration pattern, there’s just something about Denver in the summer that turns my head toward the east side of the Rocky Mountains. Farmers markets take over entire city blocks, pedestrian-only promenades beckon bar hoppers to admire larger-than-life murals between pints, and summer arts calendars swell to their fullest potential. There’s a lot to explore in Colorado’s sunny capital city — I’ve broken down my favorites into neighborhood-sized bites.
LoDo (Lower Downtown)
LoDo is a trendy downtown area known for its bustling commercial scene and restaurant collective. Anchoring the district is the mixed-use transit hub Union Station, which features boutique shopping, a hotel, and not one but two Michelin-awarded restaurants: Tavernetta and Mercantile Dining & Provisions (denverunionstation.com). A short walk from Union Station is Larimer Square, Denver’s oldest city block lit by rows of warm overhead string lights (larimersquare.com). Grab a tropical cocktail in the underground Emerald Eye tiki lounge or sip pretty at the Champagne bar Corridor 44. Bao Brewhouse is a tasty dinner option for Chinese street food, but modern Mexican Tamayo or omakase at Ukiyo are equally delectable options.
A micro-district compared to Larimer, Dairy Block is another LoDo classic where you’ll find a vibrant food hall, locally designed streetwear, and gram-worthy photo ops (dairyblock.com). While not technically within LoDo boundaries, the nearby Denver Art Museum and Botanic Gardens are fantastic activities to fill your summer afternoon; the latter hosts world-class musicians during its Summer Concert Series from June through August (denverartmuseum.org, botanicgardens.org).
through Saturday at Ukiyo. Photo courtesy of Ukiyo.
RiNo (River North Arts District)
If LoDo is a martini-sipping city slicker passing a bit of harmless judgment on your fashion sense, RiNo is its bohemian-minded cousin, favoring urban arts and cold beer — the only thing being passed here is recreationally rolled herb. Directly northeast of downtown, RiNo is a walkable neighborhood decorated with outdoor murals, repurposed warehouse breweries, and multidisciplinary art galleries. Visit during RiNo’s monthly First Fridays festival, when many artists in residence open their studios for workshops, host gallery openings, and take to the streets for a lively arts festival atmosphere (rinoartsdistrict.org). The Denver Beer Trail runs straight through RiNo; Ratio Beerworks, Bierstadt Lagerhaus, Tap Fourteen, and Wynkoop Brewing Company are my go-tos. And if you love beer so much that you want to bathe in it, the Oakwell Beer Spa offers hydrotherapy bubble baths steeped with hops, barley, and medicinal herbs (oakwell.com). For hopless alternatives, stop inside The Ramble Hotel’s Death & Co., where moody vibes meet inventive cocktails, or enjoy the largest selection of locally brewed sake in America at Colorado Sake Co. Pro tip: they also house the city’s leading comedy club, Denver Comedy Lounge (theramblehotel.com, coloradosakeco.com).
Platt Park
Six miles south of downtown, Platt Park is an affluent neighborhood defined by Victorian architecture, boutique shopping, and weekend farmers markets. Start on South Pearl Street to peruse metaphysical gift shops, upscale consignment, murder mystery bookshops, and artisan jewelry studios (southpearlstreet.com). The dining options are plenty; Sushi Den is an izakaya legend that also offers intimate dining with a private chef, and Suerte! will transport you to the streets of Mexico City with eclectic Latin American small plates, color-drenched decor, and an extensive agave library (sushiden.net, quebuenosuerte.com). And I would be remiss if I didn’t shout out Tokyo Premium Bakery, whose traditional Japanese milk bread fruit sandwiches and matcha twisted donuts changed my life during a trip last year (tokyopremiumbakery.com). For the full Platt Park experience, visit during the farmers market held every Sunday, where more than 170 vendors fill the streets with fresh produce and locally made goods. When you’re ready to escape the crowds, take the 10-minute drive to Washington Park — 155 acres of formal flower gardens, cycling lanes, and two lakes.
Stay—Populus
As the city’s first and only carbon-positive urban stay, Populus Denver is a destination all its own. The sculptural facade of the 13-story building mimics Colorado’s native aspen trees, a biophilic ethos that extends through the public ground floor and into Populus’ 265 guest rooms. Pasque, the hotel’s all-day restaurant specializing in nature-based cuisine, is a must for breakfast and happy hour. And at the rooftop restaurant Stellar Jay, live-fire cooking, shared plates, and craft cocktails pair wonderfully with the sweeping city views beyond. The hotel’s sustainable practices extend far beyond the farm-based cuisine on the table — including the use of recycled building materials, 100% renewable energy, on-site biodigesters, and a partnership with the National Forest Foundation through its One Night, One Tree program, which plants a tree for every night’s stay (populusdenver.com).
Getting There
Ditch direct flights in favor of a more leisurely form of travel. Canyon Spirit is a luxury train journeying to and from Salt Lake City, passing through iconic landscapes of Moab, Glenwood Springs, and Denver. Sweeping glass-domed windows open to the changing scenery beyond, and onboard, meals far surpass ho-hum flight fuel. Canyon Spirit is a daylight-only train, meaning you’ll be spending your evenings at partnered hotels along the way (canyonspirit.com).
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