Rowan Jacobsen has spent the last decade or more on a journey few of us would ever consider. The question of where your favorite chocolate bar comes from is only part of the journey that would take Jacobsen to the wilds of the Amazon, to Belize, Mexico, and back to the Amazon. Why? Because he is curious, and that’s what drove him to research such a beloved treat. Wild Chocolate: Across the Americas in Search of Cacao’s Soul is the result. Along the way, he found some passionate characters doing their part to save the unique and diverse flavors of some of the most unique chocolates worldwide.
Jacobsen’s journey into journalism and food writing began in his home state of Vermont, which he has called home for most of his life. Vermont is a food-centric state; small-scale agriculture, cider making, and other culinary pursuits dominate the state. This immersion in Vermont’s vibrant food culture sparked Jacobsen’s early interest. After starting his career as a book editor for a small publisher, Jacobsen began ghostwriting for some of the authors he worked with, an experience he found rewarding as it allowed him to hone his writing skills without the burden of ego. During this time, Jacobsen also began editing for a cult food publication, “The Art of Eating,” which introduced him to food appreciation and food writing. This exposure to the nuances of food, terroir, and artisanal production would ultimately shape Jacobsen’s trajectory as a food writer, leading him to explore the unique stories and flavors of products like oysters, salmon, and, eventually, chocolate.
The Rise of Bean-to-Bar
Jacobsen’s Amazonian adventure sparked an interest that extended beyond wild cacao. It inspired a new generation of chocolatiers who embrace the bean-to-bar philosophy, which emphasizes direct sourcing, minimal processing, and personal oversight of the chocolate-making process. This movement aims to produce better-quality chocolate and supports sustainable practices that benefit the environment and local communities. Companies like Caputo’s have been pivotal in supporting these small-scale producers by distributing high-quality cacao and navigating the complexities of the global supply chain.
The Future of Chocolate
As he looks to the future, Jacobsen acknowledges the significant challenges facing the chocolate industry, particularly climate change. These challenges threaten cacao production with unpredictable weather patterns and new diseases. Additionally, the potential rise of synthetic cacao represents a profound shift in the industry, promising a future where chocolate may no longer derive from the cacao tree (this is, hopefully, far in the future.) Despite these hurdles, there is a growing demand for transparency and traceability in the chocolate supply chain. Efforts by organizations like the Heirloom Cacao Preservation Fund aim to protect endangered cacao varieties and ensure that chocolate continues to be produced not only for its taste but also as a means of preserving cultural traditions and supporting sustainable agricultural practices.
Rowan Jacobsen’s journey through the world of chocolate is not just about indulgence; it’s about understanding the origins and impact of what we consume. By supporting small-scale, artisanal chocolate makers, consumers can enjoy a richer experience that benefits not only palates but also the planet. Jacobsen’s work invites us to rethink our relationship with chocolate, encouraging a deeper appreciation for its complexities and the global efforts to sustain its future.
For those inspired by Rowan Jacobsen’s insights, a clear next step is to seek out and support artisanal chocolate makers who prioritize quality, sustainability, and ethical practices. We can all contribute to a more sustainable and delicious world of chocolate through conscious consumption.
Love chocolate? Read more about Caputo’s Annual Chocolate Festival!
