When I first ventured to St. George some 15 years ago, it kinda felt like a northern outpost of Mesa, Arizona circa 1995. Strip malls. Chain restaurants. Lots of license plates from Midwestern states and dining rooms half filled by 5:30 p.m. on a Tuesday. Sure, there are some remnants of those cultural clichés that have stood the test of time, but a couple of decades into this century there are many tried-and-true local favorites worth a stop, and some notable new spots making a splash.
OPEN ALL DAY
Wood Ash Rye
Gotta love having a go-to downtown spot for boozy brunch with friends or a refined business lunch. And in a land where many restaurants are closed on Sunday (and Monday), make sure to snag a reservation here for any celebratory dinner with a big group. Elegantly set in the Advenire Hotel, Wood Ash Rye—one of Salt Lake magazine’s 2024 picks for Best Restaurant—fits any of these bills in style. When in season, their signature pork belly with watermelon is a must-order. The tender pork has a ridiculously crispy-salty finish that plays perfectly on the plate with juicy and sweet melon. Especially delish with their mezcal-forward cocktail, the Dry Spell.
25 W. St. George Blvd., St. George | theadvenirehotel.com/wood-ash-rye-restaurant
Jalapeños
There are plenty of good Mexican restaurants in St. George serving Sonoran combo plate classics. But when all I want is a truly stellar street taco (or two) for the road, a zip through the Jalapeños drive-thru just hits the mark. Attached to a Sinclair gas station, this unassuming counter-service spot has a steady breakfast burrito crowd in the morning and bustling bunch of locals noshing at the small dining room at lunch. Rare in St. G, it’s open until 10 p.m. for those seeking a late-night snack. Make sure to order some extra cantina-style pickled jalapenos any time of day.
386 N. Bluff Street (Suite A), St. George
BREAKFAST/LUNCH/COFFEE
Ernie’s: The French Bakery & Deli
I did a double-take when I pulled up in front of Ernie’s French Bakery & Deli, seeing the familiar logo. Lo and behold, this is an outpost of the West Yellowstone, Montana standard of the same name, operated by the sons of the OG Ernie’s owner. When I asked if they made all the pastry in-house, I got an enthusiastic reply of, “Of course, we are French!” As if croissants can’t be trusted to just anyone. Here you’ll find a case filled with the classic pastries you’d expect—yes, the ham and cheese croissant was superlative—along with loaded hot breakfast sandwiches or build-your-own box lunches to fuel your adventures.
2654 E. Red Cliffs Drive, St. George | erniesfrenchbakery.com
FS Coffee Co.
Down the road from always-packed Bonrue Bakery you’ll find their somewhat mellower sister spot, FS Coffee Co. This is where some remarkably solid caffeinated magic happens in St. George, serving up house-roasted coffee blends brewed with care. It’s a smaller menu than Bonrue’s, but the same great quality of made-fresh sweets and truly gracious service. My friend Lala Phunkhang Roggensack (Salt Plate City) recommended that I check out FS Coffee, saying, “Their menu felt like I was transported to a coffee shop in Hawaii,” and I’m so glad I followed her spot-on advice. Sit in the bright and clean-lined shop or out on the covered patio. And on a scorcher of a day, you can’t go wrong with grabbing a big iced green tea as the perfect refresher to go.
14 W. Tabernacle Street, St. George | fscoffeecompany.com
DINNER
Red Fort Cuisine of India
Yes, there are three Red Fort locations in southern Utah (and one in Meridian, Idaho), which in this case provides testimony to their popularity with locals and tourists alike. They’re not messing around with the greatest hits here. There’s an extensive menu of Indian curries, tandoori dishes, biryani, and all the accompaniments for judicious raita or chutney saucing and naan dunking. Nice touches abound, like a frosty mug presented alongside my bottled Kingfisher beer, easy accommodation of large parties—everything came out piping hot at the same time, even with our group of twelve during one visit—and the friendliest service.
148 S. 1470 East, St. George | redfortcuisine.com
Rylu’s Bistro
Several trusted foodie friends consider Rylu’s Bistro one of their favorite spots in the Santa Clara valley. The repurposed circa 1880 homestead is charming and welcoming, and the menu is seasonally driven. When we were both recently in St. George for a work conference, fellow food writer Heather King (SLC Lunches) especially enjoyed a vegan pasta dish: “There was plenty of flavor for even the most voracious of carnivores thanks to the tender, roasted artichokes and toothsome ribbons of tagliatelle paired with pecans for a nutty crunch,” along with sweet caramelized onions and a nice protein boost from creamy cannellini beans. Notably, even though the menu is tidy (a few starters and salads, and a handful of entrées), there’s especially careful attention to patrons’ food allergies and dietary preferences and a small but lovely wine list.
2862 Santa Clara Dr, Santa Clara | rylusbistro.com
Basalt at Black Desert Resort
Admittedly, I arrived for my reservation at Basalt in a bad mood. Google maps took me on a frustrating 20-minute detour through the resort’s sprawling construction zones, following rutted dirt tracks that may some day become actual roads. After finally arriving at an unmarked group of buildings, a valet pointed to one which he assured me housed the restaurant. After finding an elevator to the top floor, I was promptly greeted and seated at a cozy banquette in the glass-walled dining room, and my mood improved dramatically after being served a nicely built High West Old Fashioned with a lovely twist of torched orange zest. The menu here is presented steakhouse style, with sharable starters and sides to accompany protein-focused mains and high-dollar steaks (I did not order the 16-ounce, 45-day-dry-aged Kansas City-sourced Wagyu coming in at $225; maybe next time). Some high points: The hamachi “ceviche” served crudo style had a nice balance with citrusy Peruvian tiradito sauce, avocado and bright radish. I love seeing lamb on a menu, and this one was expertly cooked and sauced with classic cherry demi-glace. It sounds like a humble dish, but the sweet-and-salty side of creamed corn (studded with cipollini onions and crispy lardons) was an unexpected hit. For dessert, the restrained and delicate olive oil and lemon salted crémeux was a delightfully zingy finish after a big meal. I even returned to my very dusty car with a smile on my face.
1500 E. Black Desert Drive, Ivins | blackdesertresort.com/dining/basalt
See more stories like this and all of our Food and Drink coverage. And while you’re here, why not subscribe and get six annual issues of Salt Lake magazine’s curated guide to the best life in Utah?
