What is a food crush? Here’s the scoop: I spotlight dishes I can’t stop thinking about—the ones that linger in the best way. They might be a flawless classic, wildly creative or so simply good they live rent-free in my mind. Like any crush, they show up uninvited, often and with intensity. They’re always worth seeking out.
Junah, a Japanese/Italian fusion restaurant, opened quietly but is emerging with fanfare. Its menu blends Mediterranean methods with Japanese ingredients in a rich tapestry of flavors that shouldn’t work, but do. The dishes, like the decor, are subtly luxurious and vibrant. Owners-chefs Felipe Oliveira and Hiro Tagai also own the lauded ramen and izakaya spot, Koyote.
Now to my current crush: the brightly vibrant and aptly named Aurora crudo. Part sashimi, part Sicilian crudo, and stylistically reminiscent of a Mexican aguachile, the dish comes on like the dawn and ends like a sunset. Crudo, meaning “raw” in Italian, has its roots in coastal towns and is traditionally dressed with olive oil and citrus.
At Junah, the crudo is made with thinly sliced shimaaji, also known as striped jack.
A very typical sushi fish, it is sliced much thinner than typical for sashimi, almost like a carpaccio. It’s firm, sweet, buttery, and has a clean finish. Paper-translucent slices of fennel add a fresh, anise-like note, while a few feathery green fronds resemble seaweed in the bowl. Mandarins, carefully supremed, are bright orange half-moons and add a touch of “Aurora” to the dish.
The shima-aji is served swimming in a bowl with a sweet-tart champagne vinaigrette and citrus juice highlights. It could almost be called a deconstructed ceviche. Dollops of foam top each composed bite, hailing back to the fish’s oceanic origins. Golden-crispy garlic chips add texture and a touch of heat. Finally, dots of salmon roe float around as bright orange popping accents.
The wine list at Junah is concise yet well-curated. I highly recommend pairing a glass of rosé to match the color palette and the spirit of the crudo.
If you want to build a fusion-y small plate meal, order the goyza-shaped ravioli. Don’t let the shape fool you; they are 100% Italian in flavor, with a brown butter demi-glace and filled with a Parmesan cream. Crispy Parmesan fans nest on top for bling. Add the glazed maitake mushrooms. Cushioned in a cloud-like garlic potato foam, the mushrooms are crispy, sweet and sticky, served with shaved cured egg yolk on top for a salty, umami finish, with fried capers for a briny contrast.
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