When we’re talking about spring breakdestinations, Ft. Lauderdale or Palm Beach might immediately come to mind. But consider…Ogden, Utah. Skiers and riders hoping to ski spring break are wise to save what many Utahns call the best, Ogden Valley’s resorts, for last. It’s spring break—Ogden style.
It starts with Nordic Valley’s killer ticket deal and continues with end-of-season shenanigans like pond skimming at Nordic, Snowbasin and Powder Mountain. It’s spring break, baby!
Powder Mountain’s No Joke Tele Race (coming April 5, 2025) has free-heelers racing on the Turn ’n’ Burn banked slalom course. Photo courtesy of Powder Mountain.
Nordic Valley
Only a few miles outside of Ogden in stunning Eden, Nordic Valley has a budget- and family-friendly reputation.
They’ve earned it with ages 12 and under riding free all ski season and having the “World’s Best Spring Break.” Running March 1 until the resort closes, every lift ticket comes with a $10 credit and the option to add a $30 rental and a $50 beginner lesson.
Crocket Lift at Nordic Valley. Photo courtesy of Nordic Valley.
Tickets start at $19 and rise as the mountain becomes more crowded. “At the window, you can anticipate seeing prices between $69 and $99, but you can save a bunch by going online and reserving ahead of time,” said Katie Gubler, resort operations manager.
The credit is good only on the ticket date but can be used for food, shopping or even a ticket for a later date. Like many other resorts in spring, look for the dates they host pond skimming, where skiers wear costumes and attempt to skim across a makeshift pond. Nordic Valley will also hold the Denim Dual Slalom, a competition to find the fastest competitor dressed in denim, and the Duct Tape Derby, a cardboard-and-duct-tape sled race.
“With our lower elevation, you’ll see warmer temperatures in the spring, so you’ll see a lot of people skiing in T-shirts,” Gubler said. “It’s a really good time.”
As long as you’re in the neighborhood, visit Snowbasin and Powder Mountain for more fun on the mountain.
Snowbasin will host pond skimming and the Handle Tow Showdown rail jam, where amateurs and professionals compete with their best tricks on a rail.
Costumes are encouraged at the Annual Pond Skim at Snowbasin Resort (coming April 20, 2025). Photo courtesy of Snowbasin.
If you’re not the competitive type, you can still enjoy live music. “It’s free, and it’s just to create a real fun vibe at the mountain toward the end of the season,” said Davy Ratchford, Snowbasin general manager.
Also at Snowbasin, if you buy a 2025–26 season pass, the last month of skiing this season will be included.
On March 29, Powder Mountain hosts Turn ’n’ Burn, a series of snowboard-only races. Skiers can join the resort’s No Joke Tele Race on April 5, where all races will be telemark-only. Skiing after 4 p.m. will only be $19.
“What you’ll find is a really uncrowded, just super-fun experience,” said Tim LeRoy, Powder Mountain Resort spokesperson. “It’s just kind of more of a party atmosphere in the spring.”
Tired of sweating it out in the gym? Time to learn to skate ski. After relocating to Utah from the Upper Midwest flatlands to Utah in my mid-20s, I let my classic-style cross-country skis gather dust for about a decade while I rode chairlifts and searched for face shots. But then one February, during an unusually extended period of high pressure, I got an invite to attend the Bryce Canyon Winter Festival, a weekend of mostly free activities held on the edge of Bryce Canyon National Park. There I took my first skate-skiing lesson and was hooked. While classic cross-country skiing is similar to going for a stroll along a flat sidewalk, skate skiing is as exhilarating as going for a trail run. Skate-skiing’s simultaneous upper-and lower-body workout checks both the cardiovascular- and muscle-building boxes while torching a whopping 600 to 800 calories per hour. And because most of Utah’s state-skiing tracks are in super-scenic wooded or rolling hills locations, the experience is much more mentally rejuvenating than spending an hour indoors in the stuffy gym.
The only downside: learning proper skate skiing techniques takes time and practice. I had, misguidedly, tried to figure it out on my own before my first lesson at Bryce Canyon. But each time I went, I’d shuffle along awkwardly, bathed in sweat, trying to move my arms and legs in the effortless rhythm I’d see other skiers on the track demonstrate seemingly effortlessly while they passed me on the track, greeting me with an always cheerful, “good morning!”
Taking a lesson, especially for beginners, affirmed Don DeBlieux, a PSIA Level 3 Nordic instructor with 30-plus years of experience and who teaches at White Pine Touring Nordic Center in Park City, will “save you a lot of frustration and you won’t develop movement patterns that are inefficient and hard to break,” he says. “And I’m not just saying this to get more business. I’d much rather have a blank canvas than someone who tried to figure it out on their own.”
Learning proper skate-skiing techniques takes time and practice. Lessons can help lower the learning curve. Photo by Sports Photos/Adobe stock
Learn the Proper Skate-Skiing Techniques
Start in a basic athletic body position: Feet shoulder width apart, slight bend in your knees, hips are directly over your feet.
Next, lift your left leg and center your body weight over your right leg. Focus on maintaining a straight line from your armpit down to your toes. Now return back to your basic athletic position. Repeat by raising your right leg and balancing on your left, maintaining that straight line.
While there are several factors in mastering a skate-skiing’s V-shaped stance, solid technique boils down to getting comfortable with balancing on one leg. “Make sure you commit completely to one ski before pushing off onto the other ski,” DeBlieux says. “And keep that head up and eyes down the trail, you don’t have to keep an eye on your skis, if they fall off you will know.”
There are boatloads of drills new skate skiers can do to get accustomed to balancing on one ski, but one of the simplest, DeBlieux says, is this: when on a slight downhill, attempt to hold a glide on one ski a bit farther with each stride. “When we coach kids, we do contests to see who can go the farthest on one ski,” he says. “Hopping on one ski is also a good one. Some skiers practice by always standing on one leg when they brush their teeth.”
For what it’s worth, mastering one-leg balance is beneficial to classic skiing techniques, too. “[In classic skiing] the ski is moving down the track and we want to be over it and moving with it,” she says. “The most efficient classic skiers are moving from leg to leg just like we do when we walk and run.”
Where the pros are
Avoid the inevitable frustration of trying to learn how to skate-ski on your own by taking a lesson or clinic from one of the following Nordic schools or learn-to organizations.
This group offers an eight-week skate-skiing series for beginners/never-evers starting January 8. Each lesson in the series is held at a different location around Park City, based on weather and conditions.
ON offers skate and classic ski lessons at North Fork Park in Ogden. Classic and skate-skiing group lessons for beginners are offered on Saturdays; private lessons are available with reservations seven days a week.
Skate and classic group and private lessons, equipment rentals and track passes are taught on 20K of groomed trails adjacent to Solitude Mountain Resort. The Center also hosts a four-session women’s beginner skate-skiing clinic that includes equipment rental and a track pass.
There’s nothing quite like speeding down a snowy hill in a tube, and Utah has many spots that supply the tubes, hills and the lifts to do it. So, bundle up and head for the hills.
Helmets are not usually required, but it could be a good idea to protect developing brains. Prices and information listed here are subject to change. Go to park websites for up-to-date information.
Gateway Parks 2300 E. Powerhouse Rd., Spanish Fork 1110 E. Eaglewood Dr., North Salt Lake
These locations, in Spanish Fork and North Salt Lake, are accessible without driving an hour through a canyon. Both feature three tubing lanes and a terrain park. A conveyer takes tubers back up the hill. $30 on weekdays, $35 on Saturday and Sunday (at both parks), kids 3 and under are free (parents, please exercise judgement)
Plan a day for tubing on your ski trip to Brian Head. The experience is located at the resort’s Giant Steps Base. Booking in advance is recommended, since tube enthusiasts flock to the hill. $25 per person for 1.5 hours, kids 4 and older only
Enjoy skiing or snowboarding, a burger at The Peak Grill and, of course, tubing with the family. A conveyer will bring you back up after sailing down the hill. $59 for a family of four, $36 for 2 people, $20 for one person, $15 for ages 3–11. No children under 3.
Eastern Utah gets in on the fun. This hill is shared by skiers, snowboarders and tubers, so bring the whole crew. A tow rope pulls you up the hill. Campgrounds are available to make a weekend of it. $10 per person, $25 for a family of four including an adult ($5 per additional person)
Do all the skiing you planned to do at Nordic Valley, and then take the kids tubing. Wasatch Parc boasts bobsled-like banked turns, two lanes and a tow rope to get back up. $33 for two hours, $60 for four hours. Must be 42-inches or taller.
Soldier Hollow’s Toyota Tubing Hill offers 1,200-foot lanes, the longest in the state. A conveyer brings you back up the hill. Top off your day trip to Midway by seeing the Ice Castles. Prices change depending on date and time. No children under 3.
Though I’ve never had the pleasure of going on a hut-to-hut ski vacation, I am wistful about doing so all the same. I imagine days filled with skiing run after run of pristine powder snow followed by nights in a snug yurt, sitting next to a glowing wood stove while sipping a hot buttered rum and recounting the day’s adventures with my ski buddies. Hut systems are prolific in Europe, where they are known as “refugees,” and in Colorado, Montana, Idaho and Washington State. A few backcountry huts exist here in Utah, but most are not meant to be used for a consecutive multiday hut trip. However, thanks to Shaun Raskin Deutschlander, founder and lead guide for the Park City-based, Inspired Summit Adventures, the same dreamy guided backcountry skiing experience you can get in Europe or other Western states is now available in Utah.
In December 2024 Deutschlander announced the opening of guided tours between the first two yurts of a planned five-yurt network, dubbed the Western Uinta Hut System, offering unprecedented recreational access to 100,000 acres of rugged backcountry terrain in the Uinta Mountains. When all five huts of the system are in place, connecting routes will span 96.17 miles of developed trails, ideal for travel by backcountry skiers, snowmobilers, hikers, mountain bikers and UTV enthusiasts. For the 2024-25 winter season, Inspired Summit is offering guided, multiday backcountry skiing trips using the hut system’s two existing yurts—trips that, as of mid-December, were already booked out into March 2025 (despite the less-than-stellar start of the winter season). In early December 2024, I got to go with Deutschlander to preview Inspired Summit’s cozy Smith and Morehouse yurt. Here’s what I learned.
“When I started Inspired Summit over a decade ago, I only dreamed that one day I would be in a position to work with the Forest Service and the outdoor community in such a profound way,” Deutschlander says. “Most people who visit the Uintas don’t go beyond the overcrowded roadside destinations like Trial Lake and Lilly Lake. This [hut system] is an opportunity for outdoors lovers to get away from the crowds, and for me, to create a legacy focused on my values of sustainability and leave no trace.”
Deutschlander set the first phase of that dream into motion when she purchased the Castle Peak Yurt from Park City’s White Pine Touring in 2021. “It had been well-loved over its many years and so we replaced it with a new yurt and also added a guide hut and wood-burning sauna,” she says. In Fall 2024, the system’s second hut, the Smith and Morehouse yurt, was constructed near the banks of the Smith and Morehouse Reservoir, 11 miles and 2,000 feet of elevation away from the Castle Peak yurt.
Inspired Summit’s winter 2024-25 hut-to-hut trips begin at the Castle Peak Yurt where skiers get to spend their first couple of days venturing out on guided, high-elevation tours and taking advantage of the sauna. The second half of the experience follows the long descent to the Smith and Morehouse yurt (gear is moved via porter service) and another day (or more) of exploring that corner of the Uintas. Each yurt sleeps between six and 10 adults, which made me wonder if separate groups are booked in the yurts at the same time. “Nope,” said Cindi Grant, Inspired Summit’s director of operations.” Every trip we book is private and customized to each group.”
On the day I got to tour the Smith and Morehouse yurt with Deutschlander, we met in Weber Canyon just outside of Oakley. The road to the Smith and Morehouse reservoir is not maintained in the winter, and so she had brought along snowmobiles for us to ride into the yurt. As we rounded a corner and approached the north end of the reservoir, Deutschlander stopped so we could take in the magical view. A series of rounded mountain peaks, typical of the Uintas, stood like quiet sentinels over the frozen lake where a group of skaters played hockey on the icy surface. “The Uintas are one of the oldest mountain ranges in North America, and were sculpted by glaciers that carved out all the lakes people are aware of,” Deutschlander explained, “and created really fun and nuanced skiing terrain.”
We hopped back on the snowmobiles and continued along the lake to the yurt. Fun fact: yurts originated thousands of years ago in the Central Asian Steppes where nomadic cultures, like the Mongols and Turks, used them as portable homes. Original yurts were covered with animal skins; a durable canvas/plastic hybrid covers most modern yurts, that functions in the same way as the traditional ones: to keep heat in and wind and snow out. The Smith and Morehouse yurt sits atop a large deck that extends well beyond the shelter’s footprint, offering an ideal outdoor space for catching some rays on a sunny day. A breezeway is also attached to the yurt, a smart addition, I thought, to both avoid snow blowing in the door and give visitors a protected place to stash their skis or bikes outside the yurt. An ADA-compliant ramp, wide door opening and adjustable tables provide wheelchair access in the summer when it’s possible to drive to the yurt.
A table set with soup bowls, stainless steel wine glasses and a huge charcuterie board greeted us as we entered the yurt. Grant gave us a warm “hello” from the kitchen area where she was kneading dough for pizzas to bake inside a pizza oven affixed on top of the wood-burning stove. Inspired Summit’s yurt catering menus include items like burritos, French toast or oatmeal for breakfast; a sandwich bar and snacks for in-the-field lunches; and pizzas and soup, Mexican night, curry or pasta for dinners. Every menu is adjustable with respect to food allergies or dietary choices, too. “Shaun went to culinary school, and so food is a big deal for us,” Grant says. “Much of the food we serve is organic and sourced from high-end grocers like Whole Foods.”
And, of course, what would a ski trip be without après? In addition to the fabulous charcuterie spread we enjoyed during my visit, the post-tour snack menu Inspired Summit offers guests includes a chips and salsa bar, Mediterranean-style nuts and olives and two beers per person.
“The two beers are included, but we have a big a la carte menu with wine and cocktails, too, and people are welcome to bring their own alcohol that we can transport up to either of the yurts,” Grant says.
Deutschlander’s goal is to complete the remaining three Western Uinta Hut System yurts by 2027. Locations she’s eyeing for the additional yurts include just outside of Samak near the Slate Creek mountain biking trail system, and at Big Elk Lake and Ramona Lake. When completed, each yurt in the system will be situated within six to eight miles along established trails from the next one, providing a way for everyone from seasoned outdoor recreationists to families with small children to have a truly adventurous and nature-immersive experience.
“My goal is to get the yurts as close to trails as possible but still far enough away so as not to interfere with other people’s exploration of these incredible mountains,” Deutschlander says.
Utah is ranked one of the best ski destinations in the world, so it’s no surprise thousands of people flock to the state every winter to get a taste of our mighty Rockies. After a leg-burning day spent on the slopes, there’s only one thing both out-of-towners and Utah-born shredders want to do: post up in a lodge and celebrate with a beverage. Luckily, Utah is brimming with après ski spots from Ogden to Alta, whether you’re looking for a solid boilermaker to pair with a game, or sit down for a nice four-course meal with your friends.
Located just outside of Ogden, Snowbasin Resort hosts the Cinnabar Lodge, named after a local soft, red gemstone. The qualities of this gemstone are reflected in the warm and rustic feel of the lounge. A place for live music, specialty cocktails, lunch and an overall solid lounge to kick back and warm up after a day out on the slopes.
Thirsty Squirrel
12000 Big Cottonwood Canyon Rd Building 3, Suite D, Solitude, UT 84121 | (801) 536-5797 | solitudemountain.com
What makes it special: Billiards and shuffleboard
If you’re looking for somewhere you can ski-in straight from the slopes, Thirsty Squirrel at the Solitude Mountain Resort is your place. Best known for its pretzels, beer, casual environment and games, Thirsty Squirrel is popular with both locals and tourists.
Owl Bar. Photo courtesy of Sundance Resort.
The Owl Bar
8841 N Alpine Lp Rd, Sundance, UT 84604 | (801) 223-4222 | sundanceresort.com
What makes it special: Once frequented by famous outlaw Butch Cassidy
Though The Owl Bar’s storied past began in Thermopolis, Wyoming, the restored 1890’s bar now calls the famous Sundance resort its home. The cozy cabin-like lounge features creative cocktails such as Wildflower and their Strawberry Basil Margarita, and a seasonal menu, along with live music performed by local and national artists on the weekends.
The Lodge Bistro at Snowbird is a spot for an intimate dinner after working up an appetite on the slopes. Regarded as an elevated ap ès ski option, The Lodge Bistro reviews rave about their braised short rib and wagyu cheeseburger. Dining is open to all but The Lounge, which offers sweeping mountain views, is reserved for guests aged 21+.
The Pig Pen Saloon
415 Lowell Ave, Park City, UT 84060 | (435) 655-0070 | pigpensaloon.com
What makes it special: Travel into Park City
The Pig Pen Saloon is a popular dive-style après ski hub located in Park City with a simple menu and warm drinks to defrost skiers after a long day in the alpine tundra. Described as a place to “unwind,” the bar is less than half a mile away from the Park City Mountain Resort.
Molly Greens
8302 S Brighton Loop Rd, Brighton, UT 84121 | (801) 532-4731 | brightonresort.com
What makes it special: The fireplace
As Brighton’s main dining spot, Molly Green’s is a full-service bar and restaurant located in the resort between the Majestic and Crest Express. With a fireplace and mountain views, of-age riders can fill their stomachs with their house chili or famous Great Western nachos while looking out at the slopes they spent their day on. Don’t miss their wide selection of IPA and wash it down with a shot of Brighton Whiskey.
Lone Star Taqueria
2265 Fort Union Blvd, Cottonwood Heights, UT 84121 | (801) 944-2300 | lstaq.com/
What makes it special: Adovada Tacos
Just down the canyon from many popular Park City ski resorts, Lone Star Taqueria in Cottonwood Heights is a popular post-ski destination. With many Mexican food-based options, their adovada (pork) tacos are by far their most popular. Lone Star Taqueria is a great spot for anyone making their way from the Little or Big Cottonwoodslopes to the bustling city of Salt Lake.
Lookout Cabin
4000 Canyons Resort Dr, Park City, UT 84098 | (435) 615-2892 | parkcitymountain.com
What makes it special: The view
Lookout Cabin is an on-mountain fine dining restaurant located at the Park City Mountain ski resort. Whether you’re done for the day or just taking a break in between sessions, Lookout Cabin is right on the mountain and provides a stunning panoramic view of theWasatch front. With a comprehensive lunch menu and handcrafted cocktails, the Lookout Cabin is the place to be at Park City Mountain.
The Mariposa
Silver Lake Lodge 7600 Royal Street, Park City, UT 84060 | (435) 645-6632 | deervalley.com
What makes it special: The Chef Experience
Deer Valley Ski Resort offers many dining options in its Silver Lake Village, but The Mariposa is perfect for those looking for a fine dining experience. With its curated and classy menu featuring locally-sourced meats and a lengthy wine list, The Mariposa is a nice spot to relax as you recount your time on the slopes. The menu also features a Chef Experience where chef Ryan Swarts will create a menu tailored just for your table.
Deer Valley’s luxury resort has opened a brand new après experience complete with a Bavarian pretzel cart, curated music and plush furnishings. The lounge also boasts a brand new menu with highlights like Mini Lobster Roll Trio, Backed Truffle Mac & Cheese, and Prosciutto & Arugula Flatbread.
Goldener Hirsch Apres Lounge. Photo courtesy of Goldener Hirsch.
Located near the Payday ski lift, the Snowed Inn Sleigh company dinner is an unforgettable experience. Though the menu including Utah Trout and Roasted Chicken with Apricot Whiskey Sauce is impressive, the best part of this experience is the sleigh ride. After a day on the Park City slopes, diners are able to take a horse-drawn sleigh ride through the mountains they spend the day skiing on. After the ride, you are greeted with warm food and an even warmer fire.
The Vintage Room
What makes it special: The oysters
St. Regis Deer Valley’s ski-in-ski-out Vintage Room is a 1,600 square foot translucent tent, heated of course, and complete with shimmering chandeliers and luxe lounge spaces. Inside, a 30-foot wooden bar serves up shucked oysters, signature cocktails, and all manner of delectable seafood dishes.
Sticky Wicket
Above Royal Street Cafe, 7600 Royal Street, Park City, UT 84060 | deervalley.com
What makes it special: The shot skis
Don’t let the name fool you. “Sticky wicket” may be a cricket term (now commonly used as a metaphor for a “tricky or awkward situation”), but this Sticky Wicket is all about skiing. This brand new après-ski bar at Deer Valley Resort feels anything but new to the ski scene. The hideaway bar, on the second floor of the Silver Lake Lodge above Deer Valley’s Royal Street Café, is steeped in Utah’s ski history. The Sticky Wicket’s walls are covered in nostalgic ski ephemera that celebrates the culture of the slopes as well as some of the greatest legends of the sport. The chill vintage ski atmosphere also offers a warm, 21+ escape where adults can party like adults with other adults. Indulge a little with High West cocktails and the seafood and oyster bar. You’ll want to get stuck in this Sticky Wicket.
Revamped for the 23/24 season, Brighton’s new Milly Chalet is elevating the resort’s dining experiences. With a Chef Jeffrey Sanich at the helm, the former cafeteria has been updated into a full sit-down experience. The new menu focuses on fresh, high quality ingredients and flavor pairings, like the the Short Rib Corn Dogs, White Bean Chili, Shrimp Scampi, Vanilla Bean Cream Brûlée.
On a foggy day in Ogden, Utah, during one of the coldest Decembers on record, Mike Hearell trekked outside to count birds. It wasn’t going well. “It was like four degrees. I think we’d only seen about twelve species by lunch,” recalls Hearell. On a typical Christmas Bird Count in Ogden, they would normally see north of 50 species. At the rate they were going, Hearell thought they would be lucky if they broke 20. “Then, the sun came out,” says Hearell. “And it ended up being the biggest year that we had ever in our section.”
The Ogden Valley CBC has at least one known lek of the Sharp-tailed Grouse, and they have been seen over multiple counts.
Photos BY Johannes/Adobestock, Mike Hearell
They closed out the day having spotted 72 different species of bird. At least four of the species became new additions to the Ogden Christmas Bird Count (CBC) list. “Meaning, that was the first time they were ever seen during the CBC,” he explains.
Hearell first participated in the CBC in Ogden in 2010 and became the lead of the Ogden Valley CBC when it started up in 2022, but that extremely cold, record-setting CBC stands out. “That was probably my favorite year or most memorable year, I would say, just because of how quickly things can turn around in one day.” It was a Christmas Bird Count miracle.
One partridge in a Pear Tree…
The Audubon Society dates the first Christmas Bird Count to the year 1900, but its roots go back much further than that. Before counting birds around Christmas, people were far more likely to shoot them as a part of a holiday tradition known as a “side hunt,” in which people would trek outside with their rifles on Christmas Day, take a position and see which “side” could fell the most fowl. Credit for changing the tradition to counting birds, rather than hunting them, goes to ornithologist Frank M. Chapman and a growing conservation movement.
The Northern Pygmy-owl is one of Hearell’s first “self found” owls early in his birding adventures, and therefore will always occupy a special place when he crosses their path. The winter months are usually the easiest months to stumble upon one.
Photos BY Johannes/Adobestock, Mike Hearell
While the winter tradition evolved into a less lethal event, it still has a competitive element. “I’ll admit, I’m a hunter and I played sports my whole life. I’m a competitive person,” says Hearell, who tracks the birds he spots all year long on platforms likeeBird.org. “eBird is what opened my eyes to the actual world of listing—a form of birding. I was seeing the top 100 in my county and these other people seeing more birds than me. That motivated me to get out.”
For the Christmas Bird Count, the rules of the “competition” are simple: count all of the birds both seen and heard within a designated circle with a 7.5-mile radius (15-mile diameter) over the entire day of the count, which must occur sometime between Dec. 14 and Jan. 5. The winner, presumably the one who has the highest count or sees the most bird species, is awarded bragging rights. (Although, friends birding together could probably find a way to make the competition more interesting.)
The CBC serves a greater purpose as well: providing valuable data to track area bird populations over a long period. “In the early years, it started out as just trying to bring attention to birds from a non-consumptive perspective,” says Hearell, “But the data is actually worth something, showing the trends over the years and the decades.”
The Neotropic Cormorant comes to his mind. “15 years ago, it was a review species for the state, and now it’s not even flagged as rare in most counties, as that bird has kind of worked its way further north every year with climate change,” he says. With more than a hundred years of data, it starts to paint a picture of how changing landscapes and climate affect wildlife and the environment.
Two Turtle Doves…
The Christmas Bird Count also serves as an excellent entry point into birding. As the lead of the Ogden Valley count, Hearell divides volunteers into groups and assigns each group a different parcel of the count circle, making sure there is a seasoned birder assigned to each section. “That way, it can be for somebody who’s a first-day-out birder up to the most experienced.” And, it is an opportunity for even the most experienced birder to involve others in something they’re passionate about. “Taking other people out to show them birds gives me a lot of satisfaction,” says Hearell, and counting with a seasoned birder can give a novice a leg-up on other newbies.
One of the best areas in Utah for viewing the Gray-crowned Rosy-Finch is at
Powder Mountain Ski Resort, which is inside the Ogden Valley CBC.
Photos BY Johannes/Adobestock, Mike Hearell
Scrolling through the profiles and contributions of other users on eBird once motivated him as a then-brand-new birder. “I’m looking at their name on the computer screen, like, ‘I don’t even know who that name is. I’ve never met that person. But I guarantee you I can go out and find more birds than they can.” Then he started to notice one name in particular that kept recurring—“Taylor.” “We were kind of the same age and had a lot of the same interests,” says Hearell. They decided to meet in person and bird together. “And so I had somebody to help push me along and teach me and shorten the curve on my learning for field identification.”
Now, Hearell has traveled all over the world to look at birds…and he isn’t going it alone. “He’s the one I’ve gone around the world with looking at birds. He’s been there with me, or I’m there with him.”
The love of birds and birding took them most recently to Lima, Peru. Hearell says, “Here are these things that I’ve enjoyed so much that have taken me to multiple places in the world that I probably wouldn’t have gone to had it not been for birds.”
So, when it comes to participating in counts like the CBC, Hearell says, “I almost feel it’s my chance to give something back to the birds.” Whether it’s providing citizen science data through his contributions to eBird or participating in bird counts, he says, “I just feel like, that’s the very least I could do to pay back for the enjoyment I get from it.”
The first Christmas Bird Count comes to Utah
The first recorded Christmas Bird Count (CBC) happened in 1900 on Christmas Day, with 27 birders taking part in the count in 25 different places throughout the U.S. and Canada. In 1903, Utah hosted its first CBC in Provo. Now, Annual Christmas Bird Counts are held all over Utah and are free to participate. Information on all of the counts is available at utahbirds.org and your local Audubon Society. The Wasatch Audubon runs the Ogden Valley, Bear River, Antelope Island, Ogden and Morgan Christmas Bird Counts (CBC). Find out more at wasatchaudubon.org.
In rural Northern Michigan where I grew Up, walking out into the “woods” to cut down a Christmas tree was a holiday tradition as essential as sipping eggnog and eating too many sugar cookies. Now, after calling Utah home for the past two decades, I’ve learned that cutting your Christmas tree is a tradition many families enjoy here, too. And it’s easy to see why. Fresh-cut trees are much less expensive and, if cared for properly, last much longer than pre-cut trees, which are typically harvested weeks before arriving on the Christmas tree lot. And, when you cut your own tree from a cluster, as the U.S. Department of Agriculture recommends, the trees left behind grow larger and more robust, creating a healthier forest.
All that said, walking around in the Utah “woods,” AKA backcountry, in search of the perfect Tannenbaum is not only more adventurous than the backyard tree-cutting sojourns of my youth but also requires more preparation and forethought. Here’s what you need to know before going on the hunt for the perfect yule-time tree.
Don’t forget the rope to tie the tree to your car.
Photos by Kristina Blokhin /AdobeStock,
No. 1: Get a permit
Both the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest (USFS) and the Utah Bureau of Land Management (BLM) issue Christmas tree-cutting permits beginning in late October or early November. The specific districts where the USFS will issue Christmas tree-cutting will be announced in October. And it’s the early bird who gets the worm: last year, USFS Christmas tree-cutting permits sold out on recreation.gov within an hour of being released. Call the USFS regional office at (801) 999-2103 in mid-October to find out when online sales will go live this win-person permit sales. The BLM, which covers most of the rest of the state’s public lands, does not limit Christmas tree-cutting permits, which can be purchased at forestproducts.blm.gov.
No. 2: Know where, how and what kind of tree you can cut
In past seasons, the USFS lands where Christmas tree cutting is allowed have been within the Heber-Kamas, Evanston-Mountain View, Logan, Ogden and Salt Lake Ranger Districts. As you might guess, all the canyons along the Wasatch Front—including the Cottonwoods, Millcreek, City Creek, etc.—are off-limits, as are all of the state’s designated Wilderness areas. The size and species of trees you can cut are specific as well—check your permit for details. In all cases, do not cut a tree that’s within 200 feet of a camping area or stream; make your cut on the trunk between six and eight inches above the ground, digging out snow from the base if necessary; never remove just the top of a tree; and scatter any extra branches that may have broken off during cutting around the stump. More info at fs.usda.gov.
No. 3: Don’t forget to bring
A tape measure. Invariably, the tree that looks to be the perfect size when it’s out in the wild will turn out to be too tall for your living room. (Remember the dad in A Christmas Story?) Measure the space where you plan to place the tree, considering the stand height, and then take the tape measure with you into the field. Other tools to bring include a handsaw, like a bow saw, which will make a more accurate cut than a chainsaw; gloves, to protect your hands from slivers and sap, both while cutting and carrying your tree out;a broken down cardboard box, to place on the ground to protect your knees while you kneel to cut down the tree; a tarp, to drag the tree out on and to cover your car with during transport; and a rope, to secure the tree to your car.
No. 4: And these things, too
Santa at Adam’s Acres Tree Farm located in Petersboro, Utah.
Photo courtesy of Adam’s Acres Tree Farm
Warm and waterproof boots and gloves, snowshoes, and a shovel to dig your vehicle out in case you get stuck in the snow. Last November, a family from Grantsville experienced the spirit of Christmas firsthand when a passerby helped dig out their truck after it had been stuck for hours during a Christmas tree-cutting expedition in the Stansbury Mountains.
There are, of course, other options for cutting your own Christmas tree in Utah that don’t involve permits or venturing into the backcountry. You can choose and cut your own Colorado spruce, Doug fir, Austrian pine or white fir tree at Meldrum Christmas Tree Farm in Layton (2073 W. Gentile Street, utahchristmastreefarm.com), open from early November while the trees last. Or sign up to cut your own Christmas tree over Thanksgiving weekend at the Logan-area Adam’s Acres Tree Farm (77 W. Highway 30, Petersboro). Watch for a signup link on the farm’s Facebook page in early November. Other events at the farm over the weekend include visits from Santa, snowball fights, complimentary hot chocolate, campfires and a holiday gift shop.
Take a gander at the mountainsides around Salt Lake City and you’ll see the reds and yellows starting to pop, which means only one thing: leaf peeping season is officially here! As any seasoned leaf peeper will tell you, the vibrant hues are fleeting, so get out there while the getting’s good. These three fall hikes near Salt Lake City are perfect for getting up into the mountains and soaking in the fall colors before shoulder season’s mud and cold come to call.
Silver Lake to Bowhunter Loop at Deer Valley
Difficulty: Medium Dogs: Permitted On-Leash Highlights: High-Elevation Meadow and View from Bowhunter Loop
Just a short drive up Interstate 80 is Park City, where you’ll be able to enjoy resort town access to trails and amenities without the typical crowds this time of year. This hike to the top of Deer Valley’s Bald Mountain starts at the resort’s mid-mountain Silver Lake Lodge, easing your trek to the high-altitude aspen trees a bit.
Drive past downtown Park City on Deer Valley Drive before heading up Marsac Ave. to the parking garage at Silver Lake Lodge. From there, access the Silver Lake trailhead just past the Homestake Express chairlift. Now for the hard part. Ascend nearly 1,300 feet through twisting, root-covered singletrack towards the top of Bald Mountain. You’ll pass through massive, golden aspen groves with periodic scenic overlooks over the Jordanelle Reservoir before reaching the the summit.
From there, descend on the snaking Ontario Canyon trail through a field of crimson scrub oak into a high-mountain meadow will fall wildflowers. A short way further, take a left on the Bowhunter Loop. Complete a clockwise loop on the undulating trail before returning the way you came, up Ontario Canyon and down Silver Lake until you reach the lodge.
Yellow Aspen trees make for a stunning fall hike. Photo courtesy of Austen Diamond, Utah Office of Tourism.
Broads Fork Trail in Big Cottonwood Canyon
Difficulty: Hard Dogs: Not Permitted Highlights: 270-Degree Views of Dromedary, O’Sullivan and Twin Peaks
Upper Broads Fork is home to some serious alpine terrain, and along on the way, you’ll be treated to some gorgeous high-elevation forests, meadows and waterfalls. Start by driving up Big Cottonwood Canyon on UT 190 for four and a half miles and park just below the s-curve.
The trailhead is just past the picnic area, where you’ll begin an ascent of more than 2,100 feet in just over two and a half miles. It’s common to see moose on the trail this time of year. Everyone loves posting moose pictures on social media, but be sure to give them ample distance.
While climbing the steep, heavily-forested trail, you’ll pass by a couple small falls before ultimately reaching your turnaround point in a rocky meadow with breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks. Some of the Wasatch’s most imposing mountains, including Dromedary, O’Sullivan and the Salt Lake Twins form an awe-inspiring natural cathedral. After you’ve had your fill of views, return the way you came back to the trailhead.
Ferguson Canyon to Overlook
Difficulty: Medium/Hard Dogs: Permitted On-Leash Highlights: Overlook Views of Salt Lake Valley
The trail up Ferguson Canyon rewards hikers with incredible views of the Salt Lake Valley and mountain cirques similar to those in the Cottonwood Canyons, but since it’s not part of the Salt Lake City Watershed you’re allowed to bring your four-legged companions along.
The trailhead is located just past Big Cottonwood Canyon Road off of Wasatch Blvd. Take a left on Prospector Drive just past the 7-11, then an immediate right to continue on Prospector and finally a left on Timberline drive where the trailhead is. Start by heading up the gravel road past the water tank before heading straight up the canyon.
The trail rises some 1,500 vertical feet into the Twin Peaks Wilderness, and is lined with rock buttresses that are popular among rock climbing climbers. Thirsty pooches will appreciate several natural springs along the way. In about two miles, you’ll reach a rocky outcropping with expansive views back over the Salt Lake Valley. Most people will turn around here and head back down the way they came, though truly hearty hikers can continue up the increasingly steep trail for another mile and a half to reach the ridge and climb to the top of Storm Mountain.
Of the five National Parks in Utah,Zion (not “Zion’s”) is the most-visited. It drew 4.6 million visits in 2023 (only slightly less than the Grand Canyon’s 4.7 million). The park’s popularity makes visiting in peak season, well, kind of a bummer. The peak of those visits happens from April through early September. This makes late September and October two of the best times to explore. Temperatures cool and the crowds thin out. There will be other visitors for sure (especially on the Instagram-bucket-list hike Angel’s Landing, which requires a permit for only the latter half of the trail.) But it’s much easier to find spaces of solitude. Take for example, the second most popular hike in the park, The Narrows (pictured above). This “hike” is a scramble up the Virgin River. The area near the trailhead is busy, but fortune favors the bold. The further you go upriver, the less folks there are. To tolerate the cold water, rent a Narrows hiking package from Zion Adventure Company (zionadventures.com) or Zion Outfitter (zionoutfitter.com). They include felt bottom boots that make scrambling over the rocks easier, waders and even full dry suits.
How to Explore Zion National Park in the Fall
Zion is Utah’s lowest park in both elevation and latitude, so its weather tends to be fair year-round. During the fall in Zion National Park can expect rain but rarely snow. You’ll encounter cool temperatures, especially in sunless canyon bottoms like The Narrows. Springdale, located just below the park entrance, is for the most part open for business in the winter season, but restaurants and stores often limit their hours. The Cable Mountain Lodge has a helpful “what’s open” guide.
View from Angels Landing. Photo by Visit Utah.
The Big Hikes
Angel’s Landing — Distance: 5.4 miles
This is a pre-lawyer hiking trail. It’s a butt-kicking climb to the very top of Zion Canyon, famously completed by a “chain route”—where the vertiginously narrow trail offers chain handholds as you crawl up tummy-turning sections with sheer drop-offs. Yes, people have fallen. No, they did not survive. Yet the trail remains open, perhaps because the payoff is so spectacular—a perch on Angel’s Landing with stunning views in every direction and a sense of fear-facing accomplishment. Do not do this hike in less-than clement weather.
The Narrows—Distance: 9.4 miles
The Narrows is a scramble up the Virgin River. You splash over and around river-rock bowling balls as towering rock walls close together as you ascend the canyon. In the summertime, people tackle The Narrows in sandals and shorts, but in the off season you’ll need some gear. Rent a dry suit from Zion Outfitters (zionoutfitter.com). The thick, rubbery suits keep the water out and you warm and dry inside. And although you’ll look like you belong on a Star Trek landing party, you’ll feel invincible wading through the chest-deep water near the top. The kit also comes with extra-grip water shoes and a giant wooden pole that makes your scrambling easier. The hike terminates at the backcountry boundary (permit required). And although you’re not hiking uphill, all the wading and clambering is tiring, so remember you’ll have to return the way you came. Consider turning back before you’re all gassed out.
Off-season Eats
Whiptail Grill
Whiptail Grill is a cute cantina in a converted gas station, serving creative takes on Mexican cuisine. 445 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, whiptailgrillzion.com, 435-772-0283
Off-season Stay
Cable Mountain Lodge
Located right at the mouth of Zion Canyon, Cable Mountain Lodge is practically in the park. The lodge has standard hotel rooms as well as family-sized suites with kitchens and plenty of space. Bonus: The hot tub is open year-round. 147 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, cablemountainlodge.com, 435-772-3366
Find more tips and tricks on Utah’s National Parks in the office season, here
It’s predawn, the Saturday after Labor Day—the dewy chill of fall prickling the air. A gaggle of middle-aged, spandex-clad women hops into two Sprinter Vans, hauling bikes, bags and coolers. We crank the tunes for what appears to be a ’90s-greatest-hits road rally.
SLC residents Sara Bateman, Emily Waltman and author Heather Hayes near the top of Strawberry Canyon in Idaho. Photo by Snake River Photo and Rachael Sharp
“And I still…haven’t found…what I’m looking for…!” We wail along off-key to the U2 track between bursts of laughter while we hang out the windows to cheer on our teammates. This is our annual adventure on the nation’s longest one-day amateur bike race, LoToJa, a grueling test of physical and mental stamina.
The 203-mile LoToJa (Logan to Jackson) ride welcomes cyclists of all levels to ride through three different states from Logan, Utah to Jackson Hole, Wyo., as single divisions. The tour of autumnal splendor finishes at the base of the Teton mountain range and, along the way, residents from Preston, Idaho to Star Valley, Wyo. create lawn-chair cheering sections complete with clanging cowbells. They’re rewarded with a view of professional riders competing to win, and the rest of us who are just aiming to cross the finish line.
A LoToJa Sisterhood
I love my LoToJa sisters. Shortly after I became comfortable on my bike, I started looking around for other women with a shared love of cycling. Slowly my tribe emerged and the rides began. We didn’t know it yet, but we needed each other. These women would help me in ways well beyond physical fitness.
LoToJa relay team members celebrate after a long and satisfying race day. Photo by Snake River Photo and Rachael Sharp
Our number grew from five to 15. Out on the open mountain road, we had the chance to figure ourselves out, one ride at a time. We may not have found all the answers, but we’ve woven an impenetrable fabric of trust and friendship. Cycling became our chance to unpack our lives—all without direct eye contact and judgment. Our conversations have forced me to pull my bike over dozens of times to wipe misty tears from my sunglasses, and other times I’ve giggled so much I’ve had to pull over for…other reasons. We’ve worked through raising infants to sanity-sapping teens, explored career paths and personal aspirations and sought each other’s advice on everything. I’ve grieved with friends who’ve lost loved ones, who’ve received unwelcomed diagnoses or battled through emotional trauma. Sweating together, pushing each other and being each other’s cheerleaders is worth the effort to squeeze training rides between work, weddings and summer swim meets with the kids. It all culminates in our LoToJa weekend.
LoToJa riders compete individually and in relay teams. The fastest riders finish in under 9 hours. Photo by Snake River Photo and Rachael Sharp
The big day arrives
Relay riders nearing Teton Village in Wyoming. Photo by Snake River Photo and Rachael Sharp
As race day approaches, we ladies divide into multiple teams—some planning to ride 150 miles and stay on through multiple legs, while others plan for 30 miles and complete only one leg. Either way, as relayers, we’re glad to hop in the car and give our bikes (and backsides) a break at intervals during the ride. While we aren’t tackling the same challenge as the hundreds of cyclists who individually ride the entire 200+ miles, I think we have a lot more fun.
Some in my group ride the relay race every year, others drop in and out with life’s ebbs and flows. We sneak training rides in during the early hours but sometimes we deliberately duck out midday to dodge responsibilities. However we manage, we’ve made spending time on our bikes together a priority—even if we don’t end up training quite as we’d intended.
While LoToJa, for us, remains festive and relatively low-key, a decade of participation has strengthened my resolve to improve and push myself a little more each year. That resolve has helped me turn 30 miles into 50 miles, then 75, then well over 100. Who knows, maybe someday I’ll try the full race like those lady beasts who fly past us each year out on the course. I’m usually happy to admire their athletic prowess from a distance, but one never knows. I’ve learned never to say “never.”
LoToJa Towns Show Love
Every year, cyclists and support vehicles pass through more than a dozen small towns en route to Jackson. Residents warmly welcome racers by volunteering at feed zones and cheering them on.
The race passes through Logan, Richmond, and Cove, Utah; Franklin, Whitney, Preston, Mink Creek, Liberty and Montpelier Idaho; Smoot, Afton, Grover, Thayne, Star Valley, Etna, Alpine, Hoeback and Jackson Hole Wyo.
Whose Crazy Idea Was This?
In 1983, avid cyclists David Bern and Jeff Keller of Logan dreamed about a Utah race to resemble the difficulty of a one-day European classic. They convinced seven friends to enlist in their race, which started outside Sunrise Cyclery—Keller’s bike shop. The route has evolved over 42 years to cover more terrain, conquering three mountain passes through scenic Utah, Idaho and Wyoming highways. Now, the 200+ mile race attracts 1,500 cyclists that range from top-level licensed racers to weekend warriors competing in full-distance, tandem and relay team categories. The start line is still located in front of the little Logan bike shop, the finish line is located in Teton Village in Jackson Hole, Wyo.
