Tony Gill is the outdoor and Park City editor for Salt Lake Magazine and previously toiled as editor-in-chief of Telemark Skier Magazine. Most of his time ignoring emails is spent aboard an under-geared single-speed on the trails above his home.
It’s the most wonderful time of the year! No, it is. The holiday period can’t hold a candle to this. Rocks are buried by the deep snowpack, the daylight hours are long, and for the most part, the notion of powder panic has evaporated until October when the diehards once again start champing at the bit the moment the mercury starts to dip. It’s like locals’ season 2.0, except the skiing is truly good this time without the ever-present threat of detonating one’s skis and knees on a post-Thanksgiving rock. It’s either late-season powder or some corn-snow-ripping fun in the sun, so keep those skis waxed and don’t lose the bug just yet.
But wait there’s more. Not only is it prime time on the slopes, but spring brings the best of après and on-mountain festivities. We’ll start at Park City Mountain, where the annual Spring Grüv gets underway for 16 days of après, live music and more. On-hill entertainment in the middle of your ski or snowboard day includes live tunes from DJ Velvet on the Public House Deck at Park City’s Mid-Mountain Lodge—by far the best lodge in Park City—every Saturday, starting March 2.
End each Saturday at Canyons Village, where live music on the main stage is the focal point of a ski beach bash. Highlights include a performance from roots-rock and southern soul maestro Anderson East with special guests Sister Sparrow and the Dirty Birds on March 30. Shows are free for everyone, so even if you didn’t hit the slopes you can still take the Cabriolet in your finest retro-ski regalia to join in the fun.
Music may be the defining element of Spring Grüv, but the annual highlight is the Pond Skim Competition, which this season takes place on April 6. If you have the gumption, sign up for the competition, pack your most creative costume, wax your skis or board for maximum velocity and take on the 100-foot crossing yourself. Those who prefer staying dry or desperately want to maintain their dignity can come to watch from the sidelines to enjoy the successful crossings, the spectacular wipeouts and everything in between.
Deer Valley perhaps has a reputation for being slightly more buttoned up, but they know how to après luxuriously. The resort is hosting a series of post-ski festivities including Fire and Ice Après-Ski on March 9 and 10 with Moët Hennessy and the High West Whiskey Lounge March 15-17 out of a retrofitted Airstream—both at Silver Lake Lodge—and every Saturday Brews and Tunes Après at Snow Park Lodge with live music and a rotating selection of brewery hosts. Snowboarders are welcome to join the party, even if they’re not allowed on the slopes.
As I said, it’s the most wonderful time of the year, so don’t go chasing sand and sun in the desert. Full event calendars are available on Park City’s and Deer Valley’s websites. parkcitymountain.com, deervalley.com
Park Cityhas an ongoing workforce shortage, which is directly tied to a lack of housing. It’s the only city in Utah with more jobs than residents. Some 11,000 jobs need to be filled each winter, and there are only 8,500 residents within city limits according to figures from Mountainlands Community Housing Trust. Just 15% of Park City’s workforce—about 1,650 people—actually lives in town. Fortunately, multiple groups are making efforts to address the dearth of rental units available to area workers.
Perhaps the most creative endeavor is the delightfully acronymed Workplace Employer Rental Incentive Program (WE RIP). WE RIP is a partnership between Mountainlands Community Housing Trust, the Park City Chamber/Bureau and the winter sports brand Rossignol, which will provide a ski or snowboard package valued at over $1,000 to homeowners who rent units seasonally or on a long-term basis to local workers.
Resorts are hoping that amenities like the common areas at the new Slopeside Village will help recruit new seasonal employees. Photo credit Freebird Photography
WE RIP began a pilot program last season in which would-be landlords were given season passes to Deer Valley for renting units to the resort’s workers. It was based on a successful program started in Aspen, Colorado, but both Deer Valley and Park City declined to participate this season. It’s unfortunate, as ski passes are a very effective carrot in ski-obsessed communities, and it’s as of yet unknown if people find gear equally enticing.
Perks alone won’t fix a monumental housing shortage, so local developers are joining the fray. “The housing shortage is a demographic issue that’s been ignored for too long with significant impact on the greater community,” says Tony Tyler, Partner at Columbus Pacific Development. “Helping address the situation is more than an obligation for us, it’s the right thing to do.”
Columbus Pacific has developed a lot of properties in Park City, notably the current home of the Kimball Art Center as well as the high-end Apex Residences and Pendry Residences. Just prior to this winter, the company held a ribbon-cutting ceremony for a far different property, the Slopeside Village. The development has housing for 1,197 full-time Summit County residents with deed restricted prioritization for local workers at the base of the Canyons Village. “It’s a unique structure,” says Tyler. “Essentially there are nine tiers of priority based on where you work and how much you earn. It levels the playing field for people who work locally, and businesses here have seen a dramatic rise in their ability to recruit workers.”
Neither the promise of free skis, nor a single, if significant, development is going to solve all the area’s housing woes, but it’s an encouraging start. Hopefully some added momentum will push the local resorts to pony up a few passes to sweeten the pot. Every little bit helps.
What Happened to All the Rentals?
These rental-based affordable housing initiatives are crucially important to bolstering the local workforce. Much attention is paid to the cost of ownership in the area, but a dramatic decrease in long-term rental inventory has long hampered hiring. Seventy percent of rental supply in Park City is short term, used primarily by vacationers. The proportion of second homes owned locally continues to increase, threatening to exacerbate the existing shortfall.
“No Welfare for Sundance + Kimball,” read the anonymously authored sticky note. The note contained one of many such nuanced takes from a late fall event designed to gather public input regarding Park City’s possible future arts and culture district in Bonanza Park. Setting aside the ludicrous, anonymous nature of the feedback—which channels some of the most vocal characters of an internet comment section—the event’s very existence reflected a contemplative mood surrounding what was once a broadly supported development concept. Local sentiment is seemingly less enamored with the world of art and entertainment. Is the feeling mutual?
If a faction of fed-up residents were contemplating ousting Sundance, the fabulously impactful annual film festival, some rumors suggest they may not get the chance. Word on the street is Sundance has been considering an exit from Park City, possibly leading to a situation of “You can’t break up with me because I’m breaking up with you!”
Reporting from Deadline in July 2023 indicated festival organizers were fielding RFPs from numerous cities including Santa Fe, New Mexico and Bentonville, Arkansas. Sundance reps replied at the time that the requests for proposals were related only to Sundance Labs, the year-round programs Sundance Institute runs to develop upcoming filmmakers. One of the labs is held at Utah’s Sundance Resort, which is undergoing extensive construction, necessitating the need for an alternative location.
The enticing morsel of Hollywood gossip got a boost a few months later when Sundance Film Festival leadership requested an extension on the deadline to renew its agreement with Park City to hold the festival in town beyond 2026, when the current agreement expires. The requested seven-month extension (from March 1 to Oct. 1, 2024) indicated Sundance is conducting a broad review of the festival’s future. In a letter to Mayor Nana Worel, Sundance Institute CEO Joana Vicente pointed to new executive leadership, several years of declining revenue and “many uncertainties” that make a “new vision” for the partnership essential.
Is Sundance really asking to see other people? Are they merely trying to find out if Park City is serious about their relationship? Is this strained metaphor an inaccurate lens through which to view a standard negotiating tactic relating to an agreement that automatically renews in 2027 without a two-year written notice by either party? It’s hard to say.
Despite unconfirmed rumors of Sundance leaving Utah, the festival will be back at venues in Park City and Salt Lake City, like the Rose Wagner Performing Arts Center. Photo credit Sundance Film Festival
Those sticky notes referenced in the introduction weren’t about the Sundance Film Festival itself but the Sundance Institute’s presence as an anchor tenant in the planned arts and culture district. In 2017 when the district was conceived, three parties—City Hall officials, Sundance Institute representatives and Kimball Art Center leadership—envisioned a vibrantly reimagined section of town that would lessen the community’s reliance on outdoor tourism while serving as a long-term hub of artistic cultivation.
The intervening years, in no small part due to the pandemic, upended best laid plans. Locals have bristled as the city’s estimated portion of the bill, which has exceeded $90 million. Vicente’s letter made no mention of Sundance Institute moving to Summit County. The Kimball Art Center continues to operate in its “temporary” digs on Kearns Blvd. with no end in sight. Meanwhile, the lots where businesses in Prospector were razed to make way for the arts and culture district remain vacant. Relationships are hard. Rumors are swirling.
“Good riddance,” some residents would no doubt say, at least, anonymously, on sticky notes. If it ever comes time to cut ties with the festival and organization that has become synonymous with Park City, the community will have to reckon with whether the grass is really greener. Sometimes you don’t realize what you have until it’s gone.
It’ll Be ‘Festival As Usual’ This Year
Park City has hosted the Sundance Film Festival since 1981, when it was still known as the U.S. Film Festival. In its 40th festival year, Sundance in Park City and Salt Lake City has hosted, thousands of films, millions of attendees and countless gossiped-about celebrity sightings. (I’ve talked to both Danny Glover and pre-ayahuasca-enthused Aaron Rodgers.) If you’re reading this between the dates of Jan. 19-29, 2024, get out to Main Street and revel in the madness. Who knows how many years it’ll still be a possibility.
The legend lives somewhere in the peaks of Little Cottonwood Canyon. Dendrites of just such a density, perfectly stratified, falling endlessly. The Land of “Gnarnia” blanketed with the Greatest Snow on Earth. If only you can get to it. The word is out. Denver is mercifully passé. Everyone is chasing the legend, and therein lies the foundations of the problem. There may not be enough of it to go around.
Wintertime traffic in and out of Little Cottonwood Canyon has reached a breaking point. The Red Snake of Death appears on Utah Highway 210 in both directions, devouring unsuspecting skiers and snowboarders. It’s still not the four-hour slog on Interstate 70 on Colorado’s Front Range, but it’s gotten grim enough for both public and private enterprises to take notice.
The fix, we’ve been told, is an eight-mile gondola—which would be the world’s longest—running from Wasatch Boulevard to Snowbird and Alta. There are roughly two decades and a host of other changes coming between now and then, but the Gondola has become Salt Lake City’s very own Monorail. It has captivated the attention of Utah, unleashed a torrent of emotion, and, frankly, sowed a wild amount of confusion.
How did we get here? What’s going to happen? Let’s Ask The People Involved
WHICH VISION OF THE FUTURE ARE WE FOLLOWING?
The winter of 2022-23 brought into acute focus the bottleneck in Little Cottonwood Canyon. The record snowfall and created historic avalanche conditions and led to repeated road closures that made traffic snarls a regular occurrence. It was a nadir for many powder hounds who found their ability to fit ski days into their everyday lives suddenly disrupted. The issue, however, had been on the minds of myriad officials for years.
Ralph Becker, the former Mayor of Salt Lake City and former Executive Director of The Central Wasatch Commission, has worked extensively on watershed and transportation issues in the Cottonwoods and says current planning “has lost the forest for the trees.” Photo by Adam Finkle
In 2018 the Utah Department of Transportation (UDOT) began an Environmental Impact Statement (EIS) for Little Cottonwood Canyon and Wasatch Boulevard to devise a future system that would improve transportation on Utah Highway 210. While the EIS may have been the State’s formal start in seeking a solution for canyon traffic, interested parties already had been circling the issue.
A full decade ago, in 2013, a collaborative group of state, county and city elected leaders, transportation wonks, ski resort general managers, local property owners and environmental groups began a two-year process to develop a long-term sustainable solution for the Wasatch, culminating in the 2015 Mountain Accord Charter. The Accord’s recommendations were non-binding, but the extensive work involving often warring parties resulted in a meaningful set of goals to address the environment, transportation issues, recreation and the economy. The Accord offered a glimmer of optimism.
“Mountain Accord came up with a comprehensive solution that everybody agreed on—from the Governor to the legislature to conservation groups to the ski areas,” says Ralph Becker, the former Mayor of Salt Lake City who worked on Mountain Accord and later became the Executive Director of its successor, the Central Wasatch Commission (CWC). Becker was not the only person who felt this way about the promise of The Accord.
“I believe in shared pain and shared gain,” says Carl Fisher, Executive Director of the environmental advocacy group Save Our Canyons (SOC). Fisher had a seat at the Mountain Accord table and still represents his group’s interests on the CWC Stakeholder Council. “SOC has our agenda, vision, feelings and ideas, but when partnering with people their problems are ours and ours are theirs. That’s the only way things get done.”
However, as the process became more formalized, the issue’s focal point began wandering from where Mountain Accord and CWC had sought a solution. Instead of a holistic review of the Wasatch Front and Back, the EIS as outlined in 2018 called for focus specifically on Little Cottonwood Canyon.
“The scope of UDOT and the state’s work narrowed the assessment,” says Becker. “I think the EIS process had a faulty goal. We lost the forest for a few trees.”
Fisher concurs. “The problem was redefined,” he says. “If the question becomes, there’s an issue four months a year at two ski resorts, then what’s the answer going to be? The collective failure of our leaders was in abandoning a genuine process to find a solution for the ski industry.”
Josh Van Jura, UDOT’s project manager for the Little Cottonwood Canyon EIS, says skier traffic became the focal point because of its impact on the Cottonwood Canyons.
“The vast majority of people going up the canyon in the winter are going to the resorts,” Van Jura says. “We know the number of parking stalls at the resorts in Little Cottonwood compared to the rest of the canyon is about nine to one, so we were looking for solutions to provide direct transit service to the resorts to alleviate traffic. If we can reduce the number of private vehicles on the road by 30%, it will provide much more reliable travel time for everyone in the canyon.”
WAIT. BACK UP. WHAT IS AN EIS PROCESS?
Carl Fisher, Executive Director of Save Our Canyons, wonders, “If the question becomes, there’s an issue four months a year at two ski resorts, then what’s the answer going to be?” Photo by Adam Finkle
In essence, the EIS is a federal process required by the National Environmental Protection Act (NEPA) and the guidelines of the Federal Highway Administration (FHA) executed with UDOT acting as the lead agent. Funding comes from the Utah Legislature. No matter what UDOT ultimately recommended from the EIS process, nothing gets built without some combination of the legislature allocating bonds, digging one-time surplus funds or rounding up federal funds with a local match.
With the EIS focused primarily on Little Cottonwood, the goalposts moved, at least that’s what Fisher and Becker think, both of whom worked on Mountain Accord and with the CWC. But back in 2018, a gondola was little more than an aspirational marketing twinkle in the eyes of a few ski industry executives. Numerous transit options were on the table, including two enhanced bus options, two gondola options and a train. A sixth option, which involved doing nothing and maintaining the status quo was also on the table.
Through an endless string of meetings, public comment periods and engineering, environmental and cost analysis exercises, UDOT eventually issued its official Record of Decision on July 12, 2023, identifying “Gondola Alternative B” as their recommendation.
“It’s an amazing milestone to reach this point after five years of intense effort,” Van Jura says. “So many people worked extremely hard on this, and tens of thousands of members of the public provided their input. People care so deeply about these mountains, and that’s reflected in how involved everyone was.”
WHAT ON EARTH IS ‘GONDOLA ALTERNATIVE B?’
The future is Gondola Alternative B. What does that mean? In very broad terms, Gondola Alternative B is a phased approach to implementing enhanced bussing—replete with mobility hubs at the bottom of the canyons—along with periodic tolling in Little and Big Cottonwood Canyons before ultimately constructing the world’s largest gondola from a base station at La Caille on Wasatch Boulevard with stops at Snowbird and Alta. The proposed plan will unfold in three phases.
Phase 1: (Estimated start date: Fall 2025, funding secured) Improved and increased bus service with mobility hubs, resort bus stops, tolling and roadside parking restrictions.
Phase 2: (Start date and funding TBD): Show sheds for avalanche protection in Little Cottonwood, Wasatch Boulevard widening and trailhead improvements.
Phase 3: (Start date and funding TBD): Gondola system with 35-person cabins arriving every two minutes, base station access roads and parking with 2,500 stalls and canyon bus service ending once the gondola is operational.
As of now, only Phase 1 is funded. UDOT secured $211 million of the estimated $240 million it requires. The remaining two phases will require an additional $716.1 million in capital costs, totaling roughly $955.4 million for the entire project. Other total estimates are as high as $1.4 billion. Neither figure includes the estimated annual $21.7 million in gondola operating costs. When major project budgets extend several decades out, rounding errors veer into the tens of millions. Hazarding a guess at the final bill is a fool’s errand.
The gondola isn’t expected to start until 2043 at the absolute earliest. Visitors to Little and Big Cottonwood Canyons won’t notice any changes until at least 2025. “Starting bus service by 2025 is pretty optimistic,” Van Jura says. “There’s an 18–24 month delivery time for new buses, especially the specialized ones with lower gear ratios and automatic deployed chains needed in the canyons.”
Tolling won’t begin until the enhanced bus system—a low-cost alternative for riders—is available. This is a NEPA requirement and a moral imperative from an environmental justice standpoint. Restricting access to public lands in the Wasatch by implementing economic barriers is deeply problematic. Details are yet to be finalized, but UDOT estimates tolling vehicles roughly 50 days a year in the upper canyons during peak season and holidays.
So, expect mobility hubs, bus service and tolling restrictions in a couple of years. If you eat well, watch your blood pressure and exercise regularly, with a little luck you may get to ride a gondola in 25 more.
HOW INEVITABLE WAS THE GONDOLA DECISION?
This question is at the heart of anti-gondola ire. UDOT never released an estimation of public approval for the project. But a glance through public comments showed plenty of opposition, and others have undertaken the effort. Salt Lake City resident Nick Firmani posted on Reddit, as reported by The Salt Lake Tribune, an analysis showing 89% of the roughly 13,000 comments obtained from the UDOT website were against the gondola. Reasons for opposition include environmental and watershed concerns, the visual impact of 250-foot-tall gondola towers, and queasiness about utilizing vast sums of public money to shuttle people primarily to two private resorts, among others.
Van Jura says he personally read every public comment but defends not quantifying their content
“The comment period isn’t designed to be a ballot referendum,” he says “We didn’t count ‘yeas’ and ‘nays.’ It was designed to get feedback from the public, and in fact, much of what we decided ultimately came from public input.” He refers to both the phased implementation structure and the overall layout with a revised starting point for the Gondola Alternative B. The gondola, he insists, was identified as the best choice because of its reliability and its limited environmental impact compared to alternatives
Still, some feel top-down influence precipitated momentum towards a gondola despite the collaborative efforts of Mountain Accord/CWC and the tide of public opinion and believe UDOT put its sizable thumb on the scale.
“I wasn’t on the inside at the state level, but I saw some things unfolding at the beginning,” Becker says. “The gondola was a dream in the eye of Nate Rafferty at Ski Utah and the ski area. Gondola Works was formed and a six-figure PR campaign convinced some state leaders on how cool this would be and how much it would help the ski industry and the state economy. I don’t know how big a role it played, but I think it led to the gondola being given favorable treatment compared to some alternatives.”
Josh Van Jura is UDOT’s project manager for Little Cottonwood Canyon. Photo by Adam Finkle
“Pressure comes on UDOT from a handful of places. It’s an agency in the governor’s administration and their budget is set by the legislature, so they’re somewhat at the mercy of their bosses,” Fisher says. “How is UDOT supposed to convene an open and transparent process? If they had, they would have listened to the public comments which were overwhelmingly against the gondola.”
The Utah Transit Authority (UTA) and the Wasatch Front Regional Council (WFRC), were intentionally agnostic to UDOT’s decision. Both organizations stressed their assistance on the project was to help UDOT simply by providing information and expertise. In fact, according to UTA Board of Trustees Chairman Carlton Christensen, UTA emphatically avoided taking sides.
“UDOT relied heavily on UTA for expertise and estimation of operational costs,” Christensen says. “I would say [UDOT] wanted us to take a stronger position on almost every front, but we felt as an organization it was not our place to take a formal position.”
And over at the WFRC, Communications Manager Mike Sobczak said in an email that his organization sat firmly on the fence.
“This is ultimately UDOT’s decision—not the WFRC’s,” Sobczak says. “We just play a required role in including the project in our 2023 Regional Transportation Plan (RTP), as well as identifying funding resources for upcoming prioritized projects on the immediate horizon.”
WHO IS GOING TO OPERATE THIS?
There’s a lot of infrastructure that needs to be built, operated and maintained, and many questions remain. Who is going to operate the buses? Who is going to build and operate the gondola? Those remain open questions. UTA is the obvious choice for the buses, as the organization runs the ski buses currently in operation, but even that’s uncertain. UTA, after all, has a lot more on its plate than just getting skiers and snowboarders to the lifts.
“UTA may or may not be the actual provider of bus service for skiers. It depends on what UDOT decides,” says Christensen. “The reality is this concentration of ridership is a seasonal thing for us. UTA has no intention to walk away from ski service until there’s a good solution, but it isn’t what drives our long-term plans. If you provided this level of funding to our mid-range and long-range planners, there’d be a lot of excitement about what they could do to increase ridership throughout the state for people who rely on public transit to get to work and school.”
The gondola, meanwhile, would almost surely come from someone other than UTA. “UTA has never operated a gondola and we have no experience in that sort of planning,” Christensen adds.
SO, IS THIS ACTUALLY, DEFINITELY A GONDOLA PLAN?
“I’m not sure they communicated the phases particularly well,” Christensen says. “Phase 1 and Phase 2 are mostly about buses, and Phase 3 is the most expensive and controversial part. If enhanced busing works, it could save a lot of money. People don’t seem to understand that buses are stuck in the same traffic as private vehicles. Until controlled access is implemented with tolling and parking restrictions, I don’t think we’ll see the effectiveness enhanced bussing could have.”
UDOT’s Van Jura echoed this sentiment, indicating that, at least in the short term, this is a bus project. “All of our attention is devoted to Phase 1 at the moment. It’s the only thing we have funded right now,” he says.
Even Fisher finds some solace in the phased approach but worries little thought is being given to how the success or failure of early stages will impact the future.
“Many of us broadly support Phase 1 components, but the process has prevented us from finding broader solutions for the long run. We’re going to spend $240 million, but UDOT hasn’t demonstrated what success from that would even look like or how that could affect future decisions,” he says.
UDOT’s recommendation essentially kicks responsibility to the Utah Legislature. For each upcoming phase, the legislature must provide funding to move forward. However, there’s no formal process to reassess the need for additional phases, which is something the WFRC had originally voted in favor of.
In theory, even if the first and/or second phases are wildly successful, there’s no formal review process to assess needs going forward. The only thing keeping taxpayers off the hook for the remainder of roughly $1 billion is the legislature voting explicitly to deny those funds without a true process to help determine if they should. Basically, while there’s no guarantee the gondola gets built, there’s not a lot checking its inertia.
WHAT’S HAPPENING NOW?
Right now? Not much. Beware the Red Snake this winter. The future promises legal challenges, pro- and anti-gondola messaging and tussles from every interested corner, and probably a lot more misunderstanding and more consternation.
Amidst all that, there remains beauty to behold. The Cottonwood Canyons. The delicate grandeur of the Wasatch. The fleeting weightlessness of a perfect powder turn. It’s all still there if a bit more difficult to access than it once was. The plans may be drawn up, but the future remains unwritten. Don’t forget to enjoy the little things along the way there.
Unlike last year, Park City Mountain’s parking lot was empty over the summer. In advance of the 2022-2023 ski season, the behemoth structure of a new chairlift sat in pieces in the Mountain Village parking lot, awaiting construction as part of the resort’s chairlift upgrades meant to ease on-mountain congestion and increase uphill capacity. Now that chairlift is doing what most of us always wish we could: permanently relocating to Whistler.
That’s right, two new chairlifts intended to shorten base-area lift lines—a six-pack chairlift slated to replace the little-used Eagle and Eaglet lifts and an eight-pack chair intended to upgrade the frequently slammed six-pack Silverlode Express—are headed to the vaunted British Columbia resort to replace Blackcomb’s Jersey Cream Express and Whistler’s Fitzsimmons Express.
The story of Whistler Blackcomb’s new chairs started with a successful appeal in 2022 by four Park City residents. The appeal led City Planning Commissioners to determine the resort’s lift proposals were not included in the mountain upgrade plan as part of the resort’s 1998 development agreement. Originally the lift upgrades had been granted administrative approval by former Park City Planning Director Gretchen Milliken, but the planning commission determined upon hearing the appeal the plan didn’t meet the requisite criteria for such approval, rendering the upgrades subject to a planning commission vote.
“We continue to disagree with the decision the Park City Planning Commission made in overturning our permits for Eagle and Silverlode, and our appeal is currently pending before the district court,” says Park City Senior Manager of Communications Sara Huey. As of publishing, the appeal of the appeal was still awaiting resolution.
Sitting in limbo, Vail Resorts—owner of Park City Mountain—decided not to let a couple of perfectly good chairlifts go to waste and shipped them north of the border as they iron out the details locally in Park City. One of the primary issues at hand concerned parking at the resort. The Planning Commission deemed Park City’s outlined paid parking system wouldn’t adequately mitigate the increased demand the new lifts would cause, a point Huey disagreed with based on last season’s implementation of paid parking at the Park City Mountain Village base area.
“During the 22/23 winter season, an average of 63% of cars parking in the Mountain Village surface lots had four or more occupants, and that jumped to nearly 70% on weekends. Park City Municipal confirmed that they saw a reduction in overflow and cutting through neighborhoods surrounding our base area. In addition, High Valley Transit reported a 20% region-wide increase in transit ridership over the winter ski and snowboard season,” says Huey.
The SNAFU hasn’t totally derailed Park City’s lift upgrade plans. Red Pine Gondola in Canyons Village has all-new cabins for this season, a welcome addition as the moribund state of non-functional gondola cabins last season left guests peeved despite cheeky signs promising replacements were on the way. Vail Resorts also reached a joint funding agreement with the Canyons Village Management Association for a gondola with 10-person cabins from the base area to the mid-mountain Red Pine Lodge, replacing the Sunrise double, which had essentially only served to take hotel guests to the base area.
Canyons Village sits in unincorporated Snyderville, so the Snyderville Basin Planning Commission, rather than Park City, will have jurisdiction over this lift upgrade plan. Recent experience with the relatively new Quicksilver Gondola and Over and Out Chairlift suggest the resort won’t run into the same types of delays along the 36-month timeline to get the Sunrise Gondola operational.
Skepticism surrounding resort plans is often warranted, as changes on the mountain are frequently felt downstream in the community. That said, increasing base area uphill capacity is possibly the most skier-centric move Park City Mountain could make outside of ditching the multi-resort mega pass, which frankly isn’t going to happen. Locals have been clamoring for exactly the type of upgrade the Sunrise Gondola represents, and a similar move at the Park City Base Area would do wonders to help spread skiers out across the resort’s significant terrain.
More skiers are coming, whether there’s new infrastructure to accommodate them or not. Incentivizing skiers to use public transit while helping them get up on the hill faster on powder days is something the community should seemingly get behind.
The Sun Rises on a New Gondola
The Sunrise Gondola will whisk skiers 1,100 vertical feet in 10-passenger cabins from the south end of Canyons Village up to Red Pine Lodge at just over 8,000 feet. The new gondola will help alleviate base area pileups that plague powder days while providing additional access to higher-elevation terrain, which is increasingly important for early and late-season operations as climate change encroaches on both ends of winter with higher temperatures.
There’s a stillness to the mountain air when tucked into a remote yurt in Utah, a quiet at times which is almost startling. It’s the kind of quiet where the only thing breaking the hush is the mild tinnitus acquired from loud concerts, late nights and a life spent in earbuds. Now more than ever that audible void is serenity and safety, the chance to breathe deeply, filling your lungs with cool air instead of pestilence and anxiety.
It’s tranquility you won’t find on a typical ski vacation. Don’t look for it in the mess resort skiing’s become, what with mandatory online pass reservations and clandestine skier limits. Finding it means venturing beyond the frenetic restaurants, hotels, resorts and shops to somewhere more remote.
I’m talking about comfortably warm, rustic lodging for the medium-core outdoor enthusiast. You know, something in between the indulgent comforts of a posh slopeside Airbnb and the excruciating type two fun of winter camping. Lodging that requires some self-reliance but comes with outrageously convenient access to the outdoor activities that drive you. These three yurts in Utah are an escape. Exit chaos and enjoy.
Cross Country Ski at the Bear River Yurts
The Bear River Outdoor Recreation Alliance (BRORA) grooms the trails on a weekly basis and after large storms, and they also manage a system of yurts in Utah that lets you ski the trails right from your doorstep. Bunks, cooking utensils and propane stoves in the six yurts provide everything you need to stay warm and well-fed after a day spent working your lungs and legs. Reservations can be made by calling the Evanston Recreation Center, or book online. Yurts start at $100 per night and require a $20 BRORA membership. brorayurts.org
Mountain Bike at Gooseberry Mesa
Composed of surrealistic sandstone shapes in Southern Utah’s red rock country, Gooseberry Mesa is home to famously technical and unique mountain bike trails. Even the desert gets chilly at night this time of year, which makes the Gooseberry Mesa Yurts your perfect hideout. Owner Kenny Jones, who coaches local rippers for the National Interscholastic Cycling Association’s mountain bike team, knows a thing or two about riding through the unique, iconic terrain atop Gooseberry Mesa, which is why he’s spent the past decade building and maintaining the yurts adjacent to the trails.
The yurts aren’t bespoke glamping shelters, and they aren’t ideal as a basecamp to explore nearby Zion National Park—the unforgivingly rugged road to the top of the mesa isn’t exactly a cakewalk, especially for low-clearance vehicles—but they’re the perfect temporary Gooseberry Mesa home for enjoying a little sun during an off season bike trip. The four structures dot the mesa’s edge with incredible views of the surrounding landscapes.
Reservations can be requested online and are available starting at $175 per yurt, which can fit between four and seven adults depending on how cozy your group wants to get. 801-318-6280, gooseberryyurts.com
Snowshoe and Backcountry Ski at The Castle Peak Yurt
Tucked atop a knob at 9,600 feet in the Uinta Mountains, the Castle Peak Yurt isn’t exactly a piece of cake to get to, but it’s well worth the effort. The yurt itself is unremarkable, just another iteration of the Gooseberry Mesa Yurts traditional temporary Mongolian shelter with a few amenities like a wood stove, some bunk beds and a gas stove, but its remote location makes it the perfect basecamp for high alpine adventure.
Inspired Summit Adventures manages the yurt and offers both guided and unguided trips depending on your comfort in winter camping and experience in avalanche terrain. Those who want to go it alone can reserve the yurt starting at $450 per night (accommodates a group of four) for snowshoeing and backcountry skiing and snowboarding. Those who prefer a more inclusive experience can sign up for a guided trip that not only helps you safely find the best snow around but will also give you a snowmobile bump for the six miles trip to the yurt and cater your meals. Reservations available online at inspiredsummit.com.
The venerable chairlift has been the primary tool used to ascend hills on skis since the prototype appeared on the slopes of Sun Valley in 1936. Its ubiquity is embodied by the low-pitched hum emanating from the terminal that’s so ever-present, it’s hardly noticeable until it fades into the background. Sure, centuries of incipient skiers had to laboriously trudge towards summits, but several generations of recreational skiers have known little beyond navigating a maze of ropes and accepting a firm thud against the upper calf in exchange for a ride to the top of a crowded, groomed slope.
No more. Helicopters, snowcats and human-powered backcountry tours, once the exclusive realm of hardened experts and professional skiers with extravagant film-production budgets, are exploding in popularity throughout Utah as everyday skiers long to explore the mountains beyond the groomers, moguls and resort boundaries. There’s powder in them hills. Get after it.
Heli-Skiing in Utah
No disrespect to Snowbird, Alta, Brighton and Solitude—resort skiing doesn’t get much better—but spend enough time looking across Little and Big Cottonwood Canyons and the mind starts to wander to those looming peaks in the distance. Powderbird heli-skiing gives unparalleled access to powder-filled slopes in the Wasatch by whisking skiers to the top in mere moments via helicopter.
Talk about luxurious convenience, but it doesn’t come cheap. An individual seat on a Powderbird helicopter starts at $2,000 per person. A private guided group runs $20,000 and can accomadate one to eight guests. Get beyond that barrier to entry, and you’ll experience thousands of feet of powder skiing deep in incredible terrain throughout the Wasatch no matter if you start from their base in Park City or at Snowbird.
Don’t be intimidated by the thought of stepping out of a helicopter onto an exposed ridge with massive cornices. Powderbird guides are well-versed in tailoring terrain selection to suit each group’s abilities. Whether you’re a group of hardcore shredders looking to eke every inch of vertical out of the day or you just want to make some creamy powder turns with jaw-dropping scenery, you’re covered. The cost means Powderbird heli-skiing may be a once in a lifetime experience for many, and the exhilaration of riding in a helicopter and ripping untracked powder will make it exactly that.
When it’s dumping snow, helicopters are grounded. Snowcats, however, can get to the goods regardless of the weather. Add in a substantially lower cost than its airborne counterpart, and cat-skiing offers a far more accessible path to powder-filled skiing and snowboarding. Powder Mountain’s cat-skiing operation is uniquely affordable and flexible. With a lift ticket, you can purchase single cat rides for just $39 each—season pass holders pay only $29.
Take a ride up the Lightning Ridge cat for powder-filled turns down Weber Bowl and Cache Bowl, or tackle some more technical terrain on Waterfall, Big Middle and Hair Raiser Chute. From the top of Lightning Ridge, hearty shredders can hike or skin to the top of James Peak to ski down from 9,422 feet. The Rain Tree cat accesses terrain west of the resort where untouched turns on moderately steep, tree-filled slopes linger long after storms pass.
All in, Powder Mountain’s cats access more than 4,800 skiable acres in a way that fits any budget and ability level. Powder Mountain also partners with nearby Whisper Ridge Backcountry Resort for full-day, guided cat skiing adventures for those willing to shell out for a more extravagant experience.
Get back to skiing’s roots with human-powered backcountry tours. Earn your turns by skinning to the top, all while avoiding the environment-destroying carbon emissions and solitude-ruining racket of helicopters and snowcats. There’s no better way to fully immerse yourself in the mountain environment.
Backcountry ski guide J.T. Robinson runs Vertical Integration, a full-service hosting company for human-powered backcountry tours. Robinson can help arrange lodging, transportation, gear and logistics, and he’ll take you deep into the mountains to safely see and ski terrain you wouldn’t be able to access on your own.
Robinson has permits to lead trips from the classics like Gobblers Knob in the Cottonwood Canyons to the North Face of Ben Lomond Peak near Ogden to the high Uinta Mountains where you can use snowmobiles to access remote peaks before heading to the top using your own two feet. Plus, he’s the only guide on earth with permits to ski on the backside of Mount Ogden—it’s private land. Tours with Robinson are fully customizable to meet varied preferences and ability levels, and they start around $250 per person, per day. Get in touch with Robinson through the Vertical Integration website to plan your perfect trip.
Squinting through bleary eyes I feel like I’ve engaged the hyperdrive in the Millennium Falcon. The headlights give the falling snow a disorienting luminescence, but the way the flakes are piling up on the pavement makes me think the white-knuckle journey will be worth it. The license plate on my truck says, “Greatest Snow on Earth,” but every now and again a string of splitter storms leaves the central Wasatch high and dry. Some folks cut bait to warm themselves like lizards on desert rocks, but I’m in search of snow. I’m also looking for an escape from the homogenized commercialization permeating skiing. I’m after deep snow and warm yurts in remote mountains. I want cheap lift tickets with an old-school vibe and a watering hole that wears its carpet stains with pride. I’m yearning for some skiing in Northern Utah.
Powder Paradise
After a winter like last year’s, during which a record-setting amount of the Greatest Snow On Earth blanketed the Beehive State, it’s no surprise to see Utah resorts receiving some well-earned accolades. Still, it caught our attention when Powder Mountain, with its famously low-key vibes, topped the SKI magazine western resort rankings for 2024. The publication—part of the Outside mega-conglomerate—electronically polled more than 200,000 people to compile this year’s rankings. Previous reader surveys have regularly leaned toward destinations with swankier accouterments than the ski-centric Pow Mow offers, but readers this year clearly gravitated to the resort’s core skiing experience.
Powder Mountain – Ian Matteson
Pow Mow limits daily lift tickets to keep lift lines in check and offers a refreshingly uncomplicated experience. Ski down, hop on a lift, and maybe stop in an unpretentious lodge for a reasonably-priced burger and beer if the mood strikes. The resort also gets a ton of snow and has more than 8,400 acres of skiable terrain above the Northern Ogden Valley. They even offer $19 night skiing, a welcome sight in a world of soaring lift ticket prices.
While in Paradise it’s best to lean-in and fully embrace indulgence. Whisper Ridge’s yurts take luxury glamping to the next level. The Perch Yurt Village is atop a backcountry mountain ridge with 360-degree views of the Wasatch as well as an outdoor hot tub and a recreation yurt with ping pong and billiards. Don’t forget a dinner prepared by a five-star chef to refuel after a day of ripping powder. Ski and lodging packages start at $930.
Prudent in Poki
After emptying the 401k for a day of cat skiing, it’s time to climb the latitudes for a more frugal adventure in Idaho. The miles tick by quickly on the hour and 45 minute drive North on I-15 from Paradise. Columnar basalt formations dot the landscape as you approach the Portneuf Range and your ultimate destination: Pebble Creek Ski Area. Pebble Creek—known locally as The Rock for its steep and rocky nature—is a little-known stone in the crown of the Gem State that’s been in operation for 69 years and counting. The understated base area sits in the shadow of Bonneville Peak and its 2,200 lift-accessed vertical feet is more than 50 percent advanced and expert skiing. A full day ticket can be had for $69, and it’s only $54 for a half day, or go full night mode for only $25.. You could take a family of four skiing here for about the price as a single ticket at one of Utah’s corporate mega-resorts.
Photo courtesy of Pebble Creek
Each of Pebble Creek’s three chairs is a fixed-grip triple, so you’ll have to embrace the slower pace of the day. Your legs will probably be thankful for the extra rest as the laps start to pile up on The Rock and Rattlesnake off the Skyline Lift. The resort backs up to the Caribou National Forest, which offers endless backcountry skiing opportunities for the knowledgable and incredible views for everyone else.
You will miss out on a couple things skiing at Pebble Creek. Mostly lift lines and overpriced food and drinks. A beer at the Rock Bottom Saloon is $2, and the popcorn’s free. Local bands liven up the apres scene on Sunday nights and move to the outdoor deck when things warm up in the spring. There’s not much else going on Inkom, so make your way over to Pocatello for the evening. Try Jim Dandy Brewing for a beer and a bite with a rotating cast of craft brews and popular food trucks.
Sometimes experience is the best teacher, even if the experience is an unpleasant one. That’s how it was for Annie Howard in 2018 when a dream trip skiing volcanoes went awry. “I was on a ski mountaineering trip in Chile. On the last day, skiing our biggest objective, I took a significant fall and ended up with a torn knee ligament and a concussion,” Howard says.
Recovery after knee surgery took months, but that was only the beginning for Howard. “I had brain fog. I struggled to feel in control of my emotions, I was dizzy and my ears felt stuffed like I had a sinus infection. I would get awful headaches when I started ramping up exercise, and I just didn’t feel clear. In a weird way, though, my recovery really reignited my passion for physical therapy.”
Brain injuries can be a black box, even for experts. And for everyone who skis, snowboards or participates in any mountain sport they’re a constant threat. The delicate dance with gravity can go awry for just a moment, and everything can change.
At the time of her injury, Howard had been a physical therapist for eight years and had significant neurological discipline experience, but it didn’t prepare her for her own recovery. “I tried traditional physical therapy routines, but it wasn’t working sufficiently. Then I found a physical therapist who had a different approach—one that took the disparate parts of the clinical practice guidelines and integrated them. Once I started working with her, everything improved,” says Howard.
Drawing from her experience, Howard developed a unique treatment program to help others who struggle with post-concussion symptoms and started her own practice: Happy Brain Concussion Physical Therapy. “We’re not just trying to address symptoms,” she says. “We’re working to rehabilitate the systems at the root of the symptoms by integrating the visual, vestibular, autonomic and cognitive systems at the same time. The treatment isn’t compensatory, so we don’t treat light sensitivity by telling a patient to wear sunglasses. We want to address the root of where the light sensitivity comes from.”
Though this type of therapy is considered alternative, Howard insists there’s no part of her program that’s outside of professional clinical guidelines. The difference is in taking the disparate facets of treatment out of siloed focus to treat the systems as part of the whole.
In the process, Howard’s grown closer to the community she lives in. “Brain injuries can affect anyone in our community, and I’ve been fortunate to build a lot of close relationships with patients.”
Howard has also recently partnered with the Utah-based nonprofit Save A Brain, which helps spread awareness about traumatic brain injuries (TBI) while raising funds to help with treatment. Save A Brain was started by Kelsey Boyer, a professional snowboarder who sustained a TBI requiring surgery to alleviate a subdural hematoma. Boyer struggled through a long, complex recovery over the course of several years. She started Save A Brain to support those struggling through their own TBI recoveries and help ease the significant financial burden brain injuries often entail. Visit the Save A Brain website to learn more and support their mission of helping keep as many brains as possible happy and healthy; saveabraininc.com