A food crush is “a sudden, overwhelming appreciation for the flavors, textures, and culinary craftsmanship of a specific dish or ingredient, leading to a phase of repeated enjoyment and exploration of similar foods.” I am a sucker for octopus. If it is on the menu, I will order it. Guaranteed. It is a risk. Octopus, when poorly done, can be a textural disappointment. But when done right? Heavenly and food crushable.
Doing octopus right is La Cevicheria in Downtown Salt Lake City. The owner, Manuel Ortega, focuses his cuisine on traditional beach food from his home, Nayarit, in Mexico. There is even a bright blue octopus on the outside of the building, hinting at the deliciousness inside.
In Nayarit, there’s a traditional dish called pescado zarandeado. Fresh-from-the-sea fish is split in half from head to tail, the bones are left intact, and the fish is marinated inside and out. The marinade contains achiote (which turns everything a beautiful burnt orange color), a dried chili paste, and lots of citrus. While the recipe and method are well over 500 years old, modern versions may even contain soy sauce due to a strong Asian influence in the area. The fish is grilled over hot coals in a wood-fired oven and sandwiched between grill plates for easy flipping to keep the fish whole and intact.
Manuel took the concept of pescado zarandeado and made it with pulpo or octopus instead. In keeping with the tradition of whole fish, the octopus at La Cevicheria comes out whole, on a wood platter, spread like a starfish in all its glory. Most places that serve octopus will grill a tentacle or two, which feels suddenly stingy once you’ve had all eight tentacles (and then some) presented for devouring.
The Pulpo Zarandeado is a dish that you order for the entire table. There’s enough for two to four people to enjoy and share. The center of the octopus is tender and sweet, and the tentacles progress from tender to crispy at the end for a textural montage. I’m unsure how the chef navigates crispy to tender while keeping the octopus intact. It is an impressive feat. While the dish is full of flavor, it is not overpoweringly spicy in any way despite the chilies. If you care to add some heat, the salsa that accompanies it is more than enough to enhance each bite.
The octopus is served with fresh orange wedges, which should be squeezed liberally over every bite. Fresh avocado and simple rice round out the plate. Ask for some freshly made tortillas, and you will have all the ingredients for improvised tacos.
La Cevicheria is perfect for visiting with a couple of friends and ordering several plates to share. Pair the pulpo with the ceviche tuna tropical, the housemaid guacamole, and the chicharron de pescado (a whole fried fish) and you will leave entirely happy. Get any of their 13 ceviches, and you will be satisfied, especially if you add on a tamarindo michelada.
When You Go
La Cevicheria, 123 E. 200 South, SLC, Instagram: @lacevicheriautah
