A food crush is one of my food obsessions, one that I just can’t stop thinking about. It’s like having a crush on a person, but instead, it’s directed at a particular dish, ingredient, or food trend that’s stealing the spotlight. It could be the latest seasonal flavor popping up on every menu, a trendy new dish everyone’s talking about, or simply a classic favorite that never disappoints. A food crush is that thing I crave, rave about, and can’t wait to taste again – it’s the food that’s capturing my heart right now. Check out my food crush series for my visit-worthy dishes around town.
This week, I went to Deadpan Sandwich in Woodbine Food Hall for the first time. It was at the end of a long day of meetings and I was starving. I didn’t have the mental capacity to sit in a crowd and eat, so I went for a sandwich to go. I got their Italian Beef Sandwich, and it absolutely stole my heart.
I am originally from Chicago and spent some time back there this past summer eating my way through the city. Of course, I had Italian Beef. Of course, it was amazing, with slow-cooked beef, provolone, and pickled vegetables on a soft roll. But I have to say, as a Chicagoan and a purist at heart when it comes to classics, Deadpan Sandwich knocked my socks off with their version.
Made with whey-braised beef instead of roast beef, the meat is extra tender with a hint of tartness. The whey somehow makes the beef more ‘beefy.’ The house giardiniera has big chunks of cauliflower, sliced celery, carrots, bell peppers, and some heat. The celery especially added some oomph. It beats the jarred stuff any day of the week. The provolone was deeply melted and combined into the meat on the griddle, not slapped on top at the end as a cold slab. Heated through, it helped keep the sandwich warm all through the drive home. Mustard greens (while not traditional) added a green bite and some bitterness to an otherwise decadent sandwich. Of course, the whole thing was topped with the magic that is Duke’s mayo. No one really knows what makes Duke’s so good. But it is the king of sandwich mayos, the flavorful crowning glory that ties the whole thing together.
Chef / Owner Taylor Giullian’s food philosophy centers around striving for “balance by being grounded in old-world food preservation techniques such as lacto-fermentation, pickling, smoking, and salt curing.” This philosophy is reflected on his menu at Deadpan Sandwich.
Did I take my sandwich home, change into pajamas, and eat it in bed? Maybe. Was it still piping hot and crush-worthy? Without a doubt.
Deadpan Sandwich had a close call late last year and planned to close. But the community reaction was so strong that business boomed and we got to keep this treasure of a sandwich shop.
If You Go…
Visit them inside Woodbine Food Hall (545 W 700 S, SLC) OR in their Sugar House location (556 E 2100 S SLC)
Visit deadpansandwich.com for more information, menus, and hours.
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