Ever since the advent of nouvelle cuisine back in the late 1960s, frying has been verboten in the finer kitchens of America. Frying is regarded as a plebeian technique and has come to be identified with fast food and state fairs, where vendors compete for the weirdest fry feat: fried Twinkies, fried Snickers bars, fried Oreos, fried beer. But lately, chefs have reclaimed the technique, looking to the great cuisines of the world, which made their reputation on fat. In today’s kitchens, there should be no more fear of frying.

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