The neon sign says "Bodega" and anyone who walks in can pick up some gum from the sundry-stocked counter, or drink a beer in the phone booth-sized corner bar.
But if you have a reservation, you'll be handed a key. Head through the door that says "The Restroom," with "room" blacked out, go down the stiars by the moose head and around the corner and unlock the door. Welcome to the underground. Order a cocktail, at the bar or in a booth. With some cornbread. Yeah, whatever.
Sara Lund's high-concept restaurant seems over the top—the speakasy secrecy, the punny names for the food (hobo smoked trout is cooked in tin foil—what the French call en papillote—and "meatloaf" is actually a lively pate with a fresh "ketchup" relish and brioche toast.)
But not only is it one of the coolest looking restaurants in the state, the food is good and the experience, from the upstairs bodega to the book-lined library bar downstairs, is well, way fun.