A Sunday spent in the pool, and out of the pool in sun-never mind the cancer causing rays! soaking up the vitamin D and deep heat relaxation-I finally feel like it's June, although I had to go all the way to Texas where it's 95 in the shade, to find it. The end of the day brings the inevitable question: what's for supper? and a summer answer is so easy: some beef on the grill, tortillas still steamy from the tortilleria, pico de gallo, guacamole, sliced 1015 onions and Farmer Lumley's tomatoes washed down with Shiner Frost and for dessert: East Texas blackberries big as an eyeball, Poteet strawberries, sliced early peaches on vanilla ice cream with Gertie's sugar cookies. I never knew Gertie. But a lot of recipes for baked goods are attached to people's names in my recipe file box: Polly's biscuits, Jessie's cornbread, Mary cake, Granny bread. And Gertie's sugar cookies. Because I was allergic to eggs, Mother made eggless sugar cookies when I was a kid: you smashed the balls of dough into even circles with the bottom of a glass buttered and dipped in sugar. The absence of egg meant the cookies were crisp and brittle, not fragile because the dough had been worked enough, and lightly baked, just pale brown around the edges. But when we got together with the cousins, we had big, tender, short sugar cookies that (being nerdy, bookwormy children with inflated vocabularies) we dubbed "epitomes." As good as a sugar cookie could get. The recipe came from my maternal aunt's husband's mother's family maid, Gertie, thereafter immortalized in a cookie that happens to be the best you can eat with early summer berries and ice cream. Here's how to make them.

1 cup butter, room temperature

2 cups sugar

4 egg yolks

3 Tbsp. milk

2 tsps.s vanilla

1 tsp. baking powder

3 1/2 cups flour

pinch of salt

Cream butter and sugar until light. add egg yolks, one at a time, then milk and vanilla.Sift dry ingredients and add gradually. Be careful with the last cup of flour; you may not need it. Dough should be soft as possible. Chill dough, then roll into balls and flatten. Brush with egg white and sprinkle with sugar. Bake at 350 for about 8 minutes.

P.S. Can I tell you how irritated I was: when I googled looking for a photo blackberries, all I got was cellphones.